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#1. Re: Front Suspension Noise - from The Buch
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Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 21:26:32 -0800 From: The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> Subject: Re: Front Suspension Noise Kris ... I have a noise from the driver's side front that I would describe as more of a soft clunking or creaking in exactly these same situations ... I have had the car to the dealer, and all they found was a loose nut on the bottom of the Koni SA which they said they could re-torque but not locktite because they felt if they removed it all the fluid might leak out of the strut insert????? ... they apparently checked over everything else in the front suspension ... the end result - the sound is still there ... my car has H&R OEs, Koni SAs, UUC StrutBarbarian, and X-Brace ... I would really appreciate learning of anything you might find out on this. Thanks, Doug Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 09:16:41 -0600 From: "Kris Welhart" <kris.welhart@cyou.com> Subject: Front Suspension Noise Hello all, I am having trouble diagnosing a strange noise from the driver side front suspension. It happens on two occasions, when only the driver front tire goes over a bump (it does not happen when both sides hit a bump at the same time). This is repeatable, I found a pot hole and drove back and forth over it and it happened every time. If you drive over a series of rough bumps, ie patched pavement, it rattles. It also happens occasionally under light braking at around 5 mph. It started in stop and go traffic (in ATL of course). This is not repeatable. I have pulled the tire and made sure that everything is tight- strut, sway links, subframe, control arms, tie rod end, strut hat (to strut and strut tower), removed caliper and reinstalled, inspected control arm busihing. The only thing I can think of is the tie rod, but the noise does not seem to be affected by steering. Give me every option that you can think of, and is the tie rod a possibility? Single answers and lists are equally accepted. I have eibach sways with poly bushings, Koni SA and Eibach springs, the CA's and bushing are less than one year old, so are the strut hats and sway links. Let me hear it, I can take it. Thanks, Kris
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#2. Re:[E36M3] Price of new engine - from tub@netzero.com
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Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 05:36:32 GMT From: tub@netzero.com Subject: Re:[E36M3] Price of new engine Instead of putting an M3 motor in, why not put the Supra 2JZ motor into the M3. It cost about as much as the AA turbo kit and makes just as much horsepower. The advantage is that making more power is as easy as bolting on a few parts to easily achieve 500-600 reliable horsepower. Take a look at the link. http://members.shaw.ca/turbofiero/index.htm
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Re: Front Suspension Noise - from Robert Chay
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Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2003 00:38:29 -0500 From: Robert Chay <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Front Suspension Noise You guys might try looking at the swaybar links. They tend to loosen up after time. Torque them down and use loctite if possible. -Bobby ----- Original Message ----- From: "The Buch" <the_buch@telus.net> > > Kris ... I have a noise from the driver's side front that I would describe as more of a soft clunking or creaking in exactly these same situations ... I have had the car to the dealer, and all they found was a loose nut on the bottom of the Koni SA which they said they could re-torque but not locktite because they felt if they removed it all the fluid might leak out of the strut insert????? ... they apparently checked over everything else in the front suspension ... the end result - the sound is still there ... my car has H&R OEs, Koni SAs, UUC StrutBarbarian, and X-Brace ... I would really appreciate learning of anything you might find out on this. > > Thanks, Doug >
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#4. RE: [E36M3] engine swap question - from Carey Probst
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Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 06:06:17 -0500 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: RE: [E36M3] engine swap question Why do you think it needs a new engine? Does it burn a lot of oil? Make funny noises? Before thinking about a swap, check out the tech notes at www.pelicanparts.com on how to tell if you need to rebuild your engine. I have almost 300k miles on my Cherokee with no engine problems and had almost 250k on my '86 325e with no problems until the oil filler cap fell off and the oil pressure light failed. 150k miles does not mean a new or rebuilt engine is needed. Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters JC CAIed and Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed. -----Original Message----- From: Hunt Hodgetts [mailto:hhodgetts@yahoo.com] Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 10:02 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] engine swap question Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 19:02:01 -0800 (PST) From: Hunt Hodgetts <hhodgetts@yahoo.com> Subject: engine swap question I'm looking at a 96 M3 with 150k miles. It probably needs a new engine. I have found two used engines with 50k each. One is from a 97 M3 and the other from a 99 M3. Would either engine be a clean swap? My mechanic warned that minor changes between model years such as different hose sizes & locations etc could make it a nightmare. I was wondering if anyone knows how easy it would be to swap engines from different year vehicles? Hunt __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more http://tax.yahoo.com ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Koni SA adjustment issue - from ChuckBrazeau@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2003 09:23:39 -0500 From: ChuckBrazeau@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Koni SA adjustment issue Something similar to this online (West Texas Region SCCA website) is the Car Setup and Troubleshooting Guide taken from Don Alexander's Performance Handling book... http://www.wtrscca.org/tech.htm Chuck Brazeau '95 BMW M3 - Violet on Black SCCA Solo2 - Street Modified #95 http://www.brazeauracing.com/ In a message dated 4/2/2003 11:12:27 PM Eastern Standard Time, KLchmn writes: > A great book you should buy if you track or autocross your car is Carroll > Smith's "Engineer in Your Pocket -- A Practical Guide to Tuning the Race Car > Chassis and Suspension." It has a cause and effect section that will help > you understand what effects what. It also has a problem -- possible solution > section.
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#6. Re: 4-point harness install on 4-door E36 cars - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2003 09:45:44 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: 4-point harness install on 4-door E36 cars on 4/2/03 5:22 PM, alex.fadeev@verizon.com wrote: > I have a friend who is trying to install a 4-point Schroth harness in a 4 > door E36 car. I did not have any problems doing similar installs on my E30 > and E36 2-doors, but we've already run into the following problems with > his car: > 1. the 17mm bolts holding the front seat in place are so close to the > power seat rails to squeeze in a socket. Has anyone identified an > especially thin wall socket that fits? Umm, silly question maybe, but you did take the black plastic caps off the bolt heads, right? Otherwise I've always used a regular Craftsman socket. > 2. the rear outboard latch attachment points are obscured by a plastic > that extends from the bottom of the rear doors up to the rear back > cushion. There are no visible screws or bolts holding it in place. Any > tricks to removing it other than brute force pulling up? Don't know, but I've heard these are a pain to remove. Don't the new Schroths snap in to the seat belt receptacles? Neil 96 M3
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#7. StopTech Stainless Steel Brake Lines - from Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering
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Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 10:03:31 -0500 From: "Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering" <ben@rogueengineering.com> Subject: StopTech Stainless Steel Brake Lines For those considering stainless steel brake lines on their BMW, StopTech brake lines definitely deserve a mention here. I've used Goodridge and Precise Lines in the past, but these StopTech lines are far better than both in a few ways. A nice feature of the StopTech lines is they actually FIT, and are closer in dimensional length than the Precise lines (which of the rear lines they include in the set, two are really too short). Sort of funny, since the Precise lines really aren't all that precise in my opinion. Also, for some strange reason, Precise uses fittings with SAE sizes (internally, they are metric). It's reassuring to know that 100% of StopTech produced lines are tested in-house. DOT regulations approve a "method" of construction, not the actual part. So, if there is a bad crimp on one of the fittings (which does happen), it's technically compliant with DOT. DOT does not require 100% testing. StopTech does this on their own at over 4500psi (normal brake systems don't exceed even 1/2 that figure). StopTech used to source stainless brake lines from a well known company and found that there was a small percentage that actually failed during testing. When it comes to brakes, a small percentage is already too large in my eyes. Another nice feature of the StopTech lines is the clear cover they put over the stainless steel line itself, for additional abrasion resistance. Not necessary, but a nice detail. At $150 for a 6-line set for the E36 M3, the StopTech lines aren't the cheapest ones on the market. However, while working on the recent Project M3 LTW here at the shop (1995 M3 LTW with 11,000 original miles), saving a few dollars here and a few dollars was not the ultimate goal. Ultimately, its reassuring to know that all the parts used to upgrade this unique vehicle fit and work like a charm. For more information about the brake lines themselves, connect to the following web address: http://www.stoptech.com/products/ss_brakelines.htm You can get the lines directly from StopTech, but probably also from any of their dealers. We got ours from Zeckhausen.com. FWIW. Regards, Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com 201-444-8150
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#8. RE: [E36M3] Knock Sensor Fault Code - from DiVincenti, A.J.
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Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 09:49:28 -0600 From: "DiVincenti, A.J." <ADiVin@lsuhsc.edu> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Knock Sensor Fault Code I hear what you're saying. I have to drive my car to work everyday which is only a ten minute slow drive. I always run Shell 93 octane. The light goes on and off everyday now and it's pissing me off. I will try to run it harder and see what happens. aj -----Original Message----- From: Pilewan23@aol.com [mailto:Pilewan23@aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 11:51 PM To: ADiVin@lsuhsc.edu Subject: Re: [E36M3] Knock Sensor Fault Code AJ, I can almost guarantee you that if you drive the engine aggressively your check engine light won't appear again. These M3 motors like to be drivrn hard. Put in some Chevron techron and some nice gasoline and drive that motor. I went through the intermittent check engine light flashes last september, but since I stopped "babying" the motor no more check engine lights. Ajay 95 Avus Blue
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Knock Sensor Fault Code - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2003 08:18:44 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Knock Sensor Fault Code At 10:23 AM 4/2/03, alex.fadeev@verizon.com wrote: >I do not believe they are related. >Which knock sensor is faulting? >The front one (cyl 1-3) could theoretically be accessed and replaced with >the intake manifold in place. >The rear one (cyl 4-6) is a royal PITA to replace requiring at least three >hands and tons of patience and time. And to add my 2 cents, I would replace both anyway. The rear one needed replacing on the race car, so my mechanic & I changed the front one while it was accessible (~$50 each from bimmerparts.com). And I can confirm that the rear one is a royal PITA to change :-) >I suspect the DME triggers CE light only if it suspects that the sensor >itself is faulting. Yep, that would appear to be the case. I would get the knock sensor fault code pretty much after every time I drove the car. Since the sensor has been replaced I have not had the fault code. Jim Bassett
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Seat-belted-occupant-blowing-bubble light - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2003 08:23:10 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Seat-belted-occupant-blowing-bubble light At 10:32 AM 4/2/03, Andrej Dolenc wrote: >With this you can identify why the light is on. The seatbelt buckles have a >sensor in them (to determine whether you're buckled or not), this sensor's >longevity is rather suspect. When this sensor goes bad, the SRS light comes >on. Unfortunately the fix is to replace the whole seatbelt buckle. Kim didn't mention under what circumstances the light comes on, but be aware that there is a passenger-seat occupancy sensor, that if faulty can also set the airbag light. Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - faulty occupancy sensor 1993 325is #44 - no airbags, no warning light (snip snip :-))