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#1. Re: [E36M3] Hose Clamps, the most IMPORTANT clamps to check - from mike
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Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 00:59:35 -0400 From: "mike" <95m3ltw@charter.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Hose Clamps, the most IMPORTANT clamps to check Dont forget the clamps on top of the Fuel Tank under the rear seat. I have had those leak on 2 different 95 M3s. Very surprised BMW hasnt had a recall about those. The hose is easily removed by hand with the stock crimp type clamp on it. Easily fixed by using a small screw type clamp. Mine were so loose fitting, I was surpised the car ran, fuel was all over the top of the tank, dripping on the ground etc. Remove rear seat bottom, remove the visible cover, I think it is the cover on the passenger side, should see the fuel pump etc and exposed fittings, clamps etc. I would replace on any E-36, even if you have not had a problem. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeremy Conners" <jeremy.conners@comcast.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tuesday, April 08, 2003 12:33 AM Subject: RE: [E36M3] Hose Clamps > Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 00:31:59 -0400 > From: Jeremy Conners <jeremy.conners@comcast.net> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Hose Clamps > > <SNIP>Can anyone give me a tip on how to secure a pinch clamp?<SNIP> > > Cut them all off and use screw type hose clamps. I'd bet the PO of > Patrick's car did the same. An OEM typically won't use them due to the cost > associated with them. > > I'm in the process of replacing them. Fuel system done. Cooling system > done. Steering on deck. Of course, YMMV. > > Jeremy Conners > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Air intake question - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 01:26:59 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Air intake question Ed, Oh boy!=A0 You opened a can of worms.=A0 This is one of the most heated topi= cs=20 ever discussed on the board.=A0 Several years ago when Jim Conforti himself=20= was=20 on the list we almost had fisticuffs.=A0 <g> Bottom line - there are two issues. 1) horsepower gained/lost 2) filtration efficiency Horsepower - Different air intakes may increase your horsepower.=A0 How much= ?=A0=20 This may come down to who you believe.=A0 Others may speak up on this.=A0 Jo= sh=20 (Eurosport) sells the Conforti intake so I will let him speak.=A0 I remember= =20 Jim Conforti explained an internal Bosch that described the proper length an= d=20 design for the intake.=A0 His intake supposedly conforms to this design. I've dyno'd 3 different intakes on my M3.=A0 I know which one makes more HP=20= on=20 my M3. Second issue is filtration.=A0 The 2 basic choices here is between the K&N=20 oiled gauze filter vs. the ITG oiled foam filter.=A0 I've seen evidence that= =20 shows the ITG filter is a much better filter air and allows less damaging=20 material into the engine.=A0 A local mechanic claims the turbos on Porsche=20 Turbos are quickly destroyed if you use K&N filters on those engines. Then you have purely aesthetic questions such as the sound.=A0 Different=20 intakes make different sound.=A0 I can't stand the sound of a K&N cone filte= r=20 on my M3 more than a month. You second question.=A0 No, if you are just doing a filter and intake.=A0 Th= e=20 stock chip can adapt to whatever minor changes an intake will give you. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 BMW CCA #131505 ------------------------------- enf@iglou.com writes: > This may be a stupid question for which I will apologize for in advance > but, what real difference is there is cold air intakes. Why this (say > Conforti) > over another? I've seen some cheaper ones as well, how are they different > from each other? >=20 >=20 > The next question, if I mod the intake, and thats all I want to do (becaus= e > I'm bored or whatever) > is that all that is needed? If I install the intake is anything else > required to be done? >=20
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#3. Fwd: [E36M3] Air intake question - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 01:41:39 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Fwd: [E36M3] Air intake question Sorry. I'm not sure if my last post made it to the list. It sure looked ugly what I got. Hopefully this will be more readable. Lowell
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Air intake question - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 02:04:40 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Air intake question 3rd time is a charm - right? That paragraph that began: "Horsepower - ..." should have read "... I remember Jim Conforti explained an internal Bosch DOCUMENT that described the proper length and design for the intake." Lowell
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#5. Battery Options - from Bob Biggs
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Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 07:45:10 -0400 From: Bob Biggs <parm3@comcast.net> Subject: Battery Options I have a Dyna-Batt in my car and never experienced a problem. Shedding 25 or so lbs aft of the rear axel is a real benefit. Regarding reserve power, I experienced no difficulty starting the car, even following periods where the car sat unattended for several weeks. Like you, however, I don't run many accessories in my car. Also, I suspect the cold winters of Indiana would not be kind to the reserve capability. Russ Wiles makes a slick carrier for the Dyna-Batt. The carrier has a metal pan that fits perfectly into the existing space. His carrier kit includes all of the limited hardware needed for mounting. Bob Biggs Just Bob Racing >On April 8 Mike Frank wrote: > I would love to shed some weight and go with a Dyna-Batt, but I'd be > curious to hear the long-term experiences of others who have used them. > Low reserve doesn't bother me as I don't run any accessories without the > car running (except the alarm). I have heard some concerns about proper > care/charging. Seems that mounting the smaller battery is a concern, > along with having to fit a larger (-) terminal clamp (easy). Am I > missing anything?
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#6. RE: Air intake question - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 09:13:35 -0400 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: Air intake question >This may be a stupid question for which I will apologize for in advance >but, what real difference is there is cold air intakes. Why this (say >Conforti) over another? The 2 intakes I recommend are ECIS and JC. ECIS uses a K&N filter whereas JC use a foam filter. Engineers on this list would argue that foam is better than a K&N paper filter however, back in 2000 a friend of mine (on this list) Dave Spragg took his 1999 M3 (w/JC software) on a dyno and played with different intakes. W/ECIS he got somewhere around 218RWH and the JC was good for 1 extra horses over that. In short, (to me) no real difference in HP. Both sound great. Personally the JC appeared a bit higher quality, but you would expect that since its $125 more than the ECIS unit. My friend John Stoj uses a Dinan intake. I did not like the design (since it has no heat shield but gets the air from deep down the bumper therefore has a long tube). Secondly it did not sound as throaty as the ECIS/JC unit. In the past (1997 M3) I used the ECIS unit and loved it. >is that all that is needed? You can run the intake by itself. Takes 45 mins tops to get it in. However, if you are really bored and want to get some kick out of the car, go with the JC Software as well (get a better discount on combo purchase ;) Ahmad (going insane letting the car stay stock) Lutfeali 98 M3/2 Atlanta
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#7. How can I identify a short shift kit? - from DocWyte
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Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 06:46:50 -0700 (PDT) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: How can I identify a short shift kit? Here's the deal, Sometime in the past a previous owner installed a short shifter in my car. (95 M3) It's unfortunately degraded to the point where it needs replacement, along with the selector rod to the tranny. Apparently there are no identifying marks (ie, company stamp) on it. I have no idea how old it is, only that it was old enough that it got so beat up in the New England weather that it died. The shifter height was stock, it had very short shifts and kinda "clicked" into gear. Can anyone help me out? Maybe there are identifying marks, or construction that'll differentiate it as a UUC or something? TIA! -josh ===== __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more http://tax.yahoo.com
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#8. Review of '03 330i vs '95 M3 - from DocWyte
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Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 07:10:37 -0700 (PDT) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: Review of '03 330i vs '95 M3 Well, The dealer was nice enough to give me a new '03 330i steptronic to drive while they work on my '95 M3. Here are my thoughts comparing the two. (My '95 has JC intake, euro hfm, chip, borla cat back and a 3.38 rear diff, SA koni's, TC Kline rear monoball rsms) The 330i is obviously alot quieter. Fit and finish is very nice, the climate control is easy to use. The cruise control buttons on the steering wheel are kinda byzantine tho. I figured them out, but they're definately not clear at all. The steptronic tranny is pretty neat, but the manual upshift/downshift is counter intuitive. I wanted to pull the stick back for downshifts and push it forward for upshifts and bmw set it up the opposite way. That made for some bumping of the rev limiter a few times. I'm sure I'd get used to it, but it just doesn't feel right. The car is fairly quick, not quite as fast as my M, but it picks up speed deceptively. It doesn't handle nearly as well, but it does ride better. Brakes are strong, but touchy. It has drive by wire, which I despise. I didn't like it in my GTI, hate it in my GF Passat and don't like it in the 330i. What price progress? Give me a throttle cable dammit! It's jerky to take off and you get no feel for the amount of throttle you're giving the car. The harmon/kardon stereo is decent by stock standards, but a bit boomy. The steering wheel is very nice, small diameter, good feel. I wish my car didn't have the "bus" steering wheel that it does. Eventually a momo wheel will make it into my car. It has the dsc traction control, which I have to say, I'm extremely impressed with. Since my M is a '95, I'm flying solo, no traction control. We got at least 4" of snow with ice here last night and the roads were covered this morning. The 330i just has conti tourings and they're pretty big. I backed out of the driveway and floored it. No drama, no slipping, no sideways action. The light was blinking furiously, but I just accelerated down the road. I gave it quite a workout on the way to work and it never put a foot wrong. In my car I would've been slithering my way to work, or tip toeing around, even with the blizzaks. A very nice feature, esp since you can turn it completely off. While the 330i is a nice car, I can't see buying one to replace my M. It's just not sharp performing enough of a car. While it has some nice features, others aren't well done. -josh ===== __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more http://tax.yahoo.com
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Review of '03 330i vs '95 M3 - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 07:29:22 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Review of '03 330i vs '95 M3 That's strange. As far as I remember, it used to be the way you wanted it and I found that setup counterintuitive where I wanted to push the stick forward to downshift. I believe since the E46M3 came out with SMG, they changed all models to conform to the push forward to downshift methodology. I think this is how true sequential gearboxes operate, no? Chester --- DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> wrote: > The steptronic tranny is pretty neat, but the manual > upshift/downshift is counter intuitive. I wanted to > pull the stick back for downshifts and push it forward > for upshifts and bmw set it up the opposite way. That > made for some bumping of the rev limiter a few times. > I'm sure I'd get used to it, but it just doesn't feel > right. =====
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Review of '03 330i vs '95 M3 - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 07:41:16 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Review of '03 330i vs '95 M3 At 08:13 -0600 4/8/03, DocWyte wrote: >The steptronic tranny is pretty neat, but the manual >upshift/downshift is counter intuitive. I wanted to >pull the stick back for downshifts and push it forward >for upshifts and bmw set it up the opposite way. That >made for some bumping of the rev limiter a few times. >I'm sure I'd get used to it, but it just doesn't feel >right. I, for one, wouldn't want it any other way. And I'm pretty certain all sequential shifters are set up this way. And I'm amazed that some sequential steptronic-like implementations actually do it the other way. I suspect the reason for the way BMW implemented it is pretty simple -- when you approach a braking zone at speed and brake, your body is pushed forward. Therefore it's natural to push the shift lever forward, too, to downshift. When you accelerate out of a corner, your body is pulled back, and so it's natural to pull on the shifter to upshift. I notice that my downshifts in my M3 LWT are definitely executed better in 2->1 and 4->3 and than 3->2 and 5->4, but the latter shifts are of course compounded by the dogleg in them. Pull/Down and Push/Up are a holdover from the auto-tranny PRND321 days -- users will think of pulling back on the lever to downshift. -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com