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#1. RE: [E36M3] Re: 15W50 Mobil 1 for summer: anyone use this? - from Dames, Mark
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Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 17:20:38 -0700 From: "Dames, Mark" <Mark.Dames@PDO.Co.Santa-Clara.CA.US> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: 15W50 Mobil 1 for summer: anyone use this? So what exactly is the reason that M5's use 10W-60 then? -----Original Message----- From: Gcfuller@aol.com [mailto:Gcfuller@aol.com] Sent: Friday, April 11, 2003 8:26 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Re: 15W50 Mobil 1 for summer: anyone use this? Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 11:21:06 EDT From: Gcfuller@aol.com Subject: Re: 15W50 Mobil 1 for summer: anyone use this? Ron and group- I've been traveling. Sorry this took so long. The bimmerforums post with this link - http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=416& highlight=oil highlighted the point I was trying to make: With SYTHETIC oil, viscosity has very little to do with engine protection, and maybe somewhat contrary with what we have heard for years with regard to dino oil. Because of synthetics film strength, a thinner sythetic protects better than a thicker conventional. Combine this with quicker moving oil, and you get better protection, and greater heat transfer. Especially when you are racing, this is what you want - MORE oil moving QUICKLY through your bearings and lifters. A thicker oil doesn't necessarily provide more cushion, but more oil and film strength does. Thicker oil (as another post stated) is for older engines with higher tolerances - which are aren't. If your engine is tired or old, go that way, but not for most of us. For example, I have heard of unscrupulous people trading in old cars with a rod knock by filling the crankcase with gear oil. This quiets the car enough to trade it in (they just hear it idle), but it can't rev with that syrup, and the rest of the bearings will go very quickly beacause there is nothing to take the heat away from them. As for the bias of the guy who works for the oil compay referenced in the forum, he could of recommended ANY of their oils, because they have all viscosities. But, he talked about 0W30 as having the best protection due to its film strength and lighter nature. I personally believe him. It took me a long time to get over the viscosity hump, but now it makes sense to me - as long as we are dealing with synthetics. No one is going to hurt anything with 15W50 mobil one, but, the way I see it, you are giving up some power, revability, and maybe in a very very small degree protection, because it can't move as quickly (at all times, not just start up). Removing heat from a stressed engine is key - especially in bearings and lifters. They are primarily cooled by oil. The surfboard analogy also works - a quicker, stronger stream of fast moving water will keep it on the surface better than a thick, slower moving liquid. And, a hot synthetic 30 weight is still going to have better film strenth and thin out less than a hot 50 or 60 weight conventional. Again, we are splitting hairs, but I'm sticking with the thinner stuff. Unless, of course, I ever get to the point of using a lot of oil due to large clearances - but that shouldn't happen if I take care of the car and use the right oil in the first place. Your mileage will undoubtedly vary. Greg ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#2. Re: Camber Questions - from James Clay
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Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 21:36:13 -0400 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Re: Camber Questions I think we have installed or worked with all of the options you mention or should consider: -Shims - cheap, work well, may require a wheel spacer, won't give you tons of camber, just a little more. We usually use them in combination with the 96+ hats on racecars to tweak camber. -96+ hats swapped - factory, works well, only drawback is non-adjustable. Lots of camber! -K-MAC - Don't get me started. Loosen them up and the top of the strut is fully floating. If you want to set it once, get the 96+ hats. If you want to adjust, you will never hit the same mark twice with these. -Ground Control hybrid - new mount with a little urethane to isolate the bumps. Individual adjustments for castor and camber - awesome solution. Downside - won't work with a stock type spring - you need a coilover kit of some sort with a 2.5" or 60mm spring -Solid plate - I am biased and prefer the Ground Control, but whatever brand, I wouldn't deal with them on a street car. Did it for about a year in college (VA), was OK. Drove to NY and I know I shook about 5 pounds of bolts off the car crossing the GW bridge. DEFINITELY not for rough roads! James James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance 540.639.9648
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#3. Re: Camber Questions - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 22:11:12 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Camber Questions on 4/11/03 7:26 PM, Robert Chay <rchay@mindspring.com> wrote: > I never agreed with using washers or crash bolts to increase camber. It's a > half-assed way to get more camber and possibly dangerous. Nonsense. Using hardened camber washers is solid, effective and inexpensive. There are practical limits to how much camber you can introduce, depending or tire width and wheel offset, but then camber plates have their own limitations too. Neil 96 M3
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Re: Camber Questions - from Chris Teague
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Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 20:36:25 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Camber Questions > Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 22:11:12 -0500 > From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > Subject: Re: Camber Questions > > on 4/11/03 7:26 PM, Robert Chay <rchay@mindspring.com> wrote: > > > I never agreed with using washers or crash bolts to increase camber. It's a > > half-assed way to get more camber and possibly dangerous. > > Nonsense. Using hardened camber washers is solid, effective and inexpensive. > There are practical limits to how much camber you can introduce, depending > or tire width and wheel offset, but then camber plates have their own > limitations too. Plus using washers with camber plates is an easy way to get both camber and kingpin angle the same on both sides. Neil's right, there should be no issue with washers if done correctly. Chris 97 M3/4
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Camber Questions - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 06:16:13 -0700 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Camber Questions As has been said. The washers work well and are an easy way to add camber. I used washers from the local hardware store. Mine were about .1" thick and gave me ~1 degree more negative camber, for a total of ~2 degrees. The washers are placed between the strut housing and steering knuckle at each lower mounting point. Using these will decrease the clearance between the top of your wheel/tire and strut. I added 5mm spacers to resolve this. If you want more camber or you want to use wider tires, you're probably better off swapping strut hats. That's what I have now for ~3 degrees. Or, get a good set of camber/castor plates. Jay At 03:46 PM 4/11/03 -0500, you wrote: >Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 13:41:40 -0700 >From: Steven Tom <stom@qualcomm.com> >Subject: Camber Questions > >Okay so it's about time to get some more camber on my front end. What are >the ways to get more? Camber plates, crash bolts, washers. >Washers; >Who has done the washer thing? Did you simply stack a couple on the lower >attachment point? Did you use shim stock washers for accuracy? > >Crash Bolts; >I hear that this will not work for our cars because of the way the strut >mounts onto the hub. H&R makes varying crash bolts but they confirmed that >it won't work. > >Camber plates; >I hear good and bad stories about these running the H&R c/o kit. I heard >people having binding issues with the GC setup. Can someone confirm this. > >Thanks for all the help. > >steve > > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: >Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > > >
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#6. Differential Cover Replacement - from Geof McLaughlin
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Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 10:56:24 -0400 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@attbi.com> Subject: Differential Cover Replacement Can anyone lend some advice on what needs to be done to replace the differential cover with one of the aftermarket versions (Alpina, Rogue) ? Thanks. Geof
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Differential Cover Replacement - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 08:59:02 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Differential Cover Replacement Re: >Can anyone lend some advice on what needs to be done to replace the >differential cover with one of the aftermarket versions (Alpina, >Rogue) ? I wouldn't say that there was anything out of the ordinary when I put an RE cover on my LWT. Here are a few points to watch, however: 1) Clean the new cover ** scrupulously **. i did mine in a parts washer (twice), in a bathtub (twice), etc. The aftermarket covers are sand-cast, whereas the factory one is machine-cast, so the aftermarket ones are bound to be less clean. 2) The more drop you have in the suspension, the easier it will be to get the diff out. 3) Did I mention that you should keep every scrupulously clean? 4) Use Loctite/Permatex "The Right Stuff" instead of a paper gasket. Be sure to "surround" each bolt hole as per the instructions. 5) Just how clean is your garage? 6) I got new BMW nuts for the driveshaft flange, but reused the CV joint bolts. 7) Have you considered using your dishwasher to clean the cover? 8) I didn't like the M10x1 sender thread, so I re-tapped it for M12x1.5 (or M12x1.25, I don't recall) and re-cut the (tapered) threads on a VDO M12x1.5/1.25 sender so as to be able to use it instead. With a reasonably thin-walled socket, you can install such a sender (with its bigger hex flats) in the RE cover. I used a aluminum sealing washer. 9) Carb/Brake cleaner will make the cover even cleaner ... 10) Follow RE's instructions in terms of the sequence of what comes off first, etc. (esp. re sway bar). 11) You should be able to dine off your cover before installing it. 12) Don't even think of using the original fill and drain plugs -- you won't have any room for the Allen key tool to get at them between the spare tire well and the cover. Use standard hex-head plugs (M22?x1.5?) instead (e.g. from Global Metrics in Belmont, CA or Metric Multistandard Corp, etc.). 13) Consider taking pictures of your clean diff cover and sending them to your mother with a note that says "See, I really do clean up after myself." 14) I chose to ground my cover via a small grounding strap, since there are not stationary metal-to-metal contacts between the cover/diff and the chassis. This may be overkill, I admit. 15) Don't forgot to clean the most important part (yourself) after you've re-installed the diff with its shiny, new, CLEAN, cover. I am EXTREMELY happy with my RE cover. On-track, the highest temp I've ever seen is ... 150 degrees (!). It's insane how much cooler it runs than before. HTH, -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#8. HELP - Problem with removing fan shroud - from Johnny Lee LEE
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Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 16:04:28 -0400 From: Johnny Lee LEE <arionatof@comcast.net> Subject: HELP - Problem with removing fan shroud Folks, I am in the middle of doing the cooling kit and I have the coolant drained. and top fan cover removed. I am trying to take the fan shroud out but I am having a lot of trouble because of the hose that is going through it. I seem to be stuck since I don't know where the hose is connected to. And I don't have enough room to remove the fan, etc. If someone can give me advice on that I would really be grateful. The Bentley manual did describe that and I am not sure what to other than putting everything back on. TIA, -Johnny
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#9. Fan Shroud - Figured it out - from Johnny Lee LEE
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Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 18:04:56 -0400 From: Johnny Lee LEE <arionatof@comcast.net> Subject: Fan Shroud - Figured it out well, I figured out finally. I was trying to remove the fan shroud without removing the fan first. I didn't realize that the fan shroud and the expansion tank stays in place. Thanks for the help. -Johnny: who has been showered by coolant. Cooland tasts yucky.
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#10. Bob Stommel - from Jonathan Lukens
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Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 21:15:32 -0500 From: "Jonathan Lukens" <jlukens@new.rr.com> Subject: Bob Stommel Would someone (or Bob himself) please send me his email address offline? I have a quick question with regard to the offset upper strut mounting plates on the M3, like where did he get them?? Thanks! ........ Jonathan Lukens jlukens@new.rr.com (920) 371-1801 cell