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#1. RE: Differential Cover Replacement - from Pedro Aceves
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Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 00:26:04 -0600 From: Pedro Aceves <aceves@mac.com> Subject: RE: Differential Cover Replacement I just did this today and I must say It is a major PIA! I usually never follow instructions but decided to follow the ones that came with my new Rogue Cover. I should of stuck to my routine of not reading instructions! Every thing works to a "T" but beware if you have after market sways. Some problems with after-market sways if you follow the instructions are (which specify to reinstall the sways before you put the differential back on): 1.) You can't even get the differential into position. 2.) If you "were" able to get it into position you would not be able to tighten the two bolts to the sub-frame. 3.) You will have to force your sway into position between the spare tire well and the differential cover (I used a rubber mallet, one good whack should do it) . One other note, you thought clearance was bad to the fill plug before It's even tighter now! Well that was my experience. Pedro. On Saturday, April 12, 2003, at 08:26 PM, E36M3 wrote: > -------------------- 6 -------------------- > Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 10:56:24 -0400 > From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@attbi.com> > Subject: Differential Cover Replacement > > Can anyone lend some advice on what needs to be done to replace the > differential cover with one of the aftermarket versions (Alpina, > Rogue) ? > > Thanks. > > Geof
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#2. Re: [E36M3] RE: Differential Cover Replacement - from Jeremy Lucas
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Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 07:15:16 -0400 From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Differential Cover Replacement You forgot to mention which sway bars to you have? Jeremy Lucas 95 M3 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pedro Aceves" <aceves@mac.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2003 2:26 AM Subject: [E36M3] RE: Differential Cover Replacement > Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 00:26:04 -0600 > From: Pedro Aceves <aceves@mac.com> > Subject: RE: Differential Cover Replacement > > I just did this today and I must say It is a major PIA! > > I usually never follow instructions but decided to follow the ones that > came with my new Rogue Cover. > I should of stuck to my routine of not reading instructions! Every > thing works to a "T" but beware if you have after market sways. Some > problems with after-market sways if you follow the instructions are > (which specify to reinstall the sways before you put the differential > back on): > 1.) You can't even get the differential into position. > 2.) If you "were" able to get it into position you would not be able to > tighten the two bolts to the sub-frame. > 3.) You will have to force your sway into position between the spare > tire well and the differential cover (I used a rubber mallet, one good > whack should do it) . > > One other note, you thought clearance was bad to the fill plug before > It's even tighter now! > > Well that was my experience. > > Pedro.
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#3. Front Control Arm Torque Specs - from JUSTIN GERRY
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Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 09:13:09 -0400 From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> Subject: Front Control Arm Torque Specs Anyone have the torque specs for the front control arms, including the lollipop bushing? Many thanks, Justin -- '76 02 '97 m3 bmw cca checkout http://users.vei.net/jgerry
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Front Control Arm Torque Specs - from Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering
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Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 09:46:45 -0400 From: "Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering" <ben@rogueengineering.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Front Control Arm Torque Specs For E36, torque to 47 Nm. Regards, Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com 201-444-8150 ----- Original Message ----- From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2003 9:16 AM Subject: [E36M3] Front Control Arm Torque Specs > Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 09:13:09 -0400 > From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> > Subject: Front Control Arm Torque Specs > > Anyone have the torque specs for the front control arms, including the > lollipop bushing? > > Many thanks, > Justin > > -- > '76 02 > '97 m3 > bmw cca > checkout http://users.vei.net/jgerry > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#5. camber plate - from RFKoby@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 10:40:05 -0400 From: RFKoby@aol.com Subject: camber plate I developed a "fixed camber plate" to fit better the stock 95 M3 strut bearing and the strut tower. These camber plates are BMW CCA club racing legal for stock class. The camber plate has 3 sets of holes that give you the ability to ADD camber in 3 set amounts. version 1 ADDS camber: -0.5, -1.0, -1.5 version 2 ADDS camber: -0.66, -1.33, -2.00 with a lowered track car, the front usually already has 1.5 to 1.75 negative. version 1 can get you to 3.25 negative. version 2 can get you to 3.8 negative, or more. these are not "adjustable". they have 3 useable settings. I made several sets of these. Russ Wiles had?? a set. Geof McLaughlin has a set. I still have the templates to make more, but there was very little interest, and way too much arguing about how they work. bob >-------------------- 6 -------------------- >Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 04:52:03 +0000 >From: kim.burgess@att.net >Subject: RE: camber plates > >Jonathan wrote "I have a quick question with regard to the offset upper strut >mounting plates on the M3, like where did he get them??" > >I seem to recall a thread about a year back indicating that someone on the list >was in the process of developing an adjustable 'stock looking' camber plate. >Anyone recall the thread and/or who/where those plates might be? >Kim Burgess
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#6. Amsoil Synthetic ATF for Manual Transmission - from Geof McLaughlin
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Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 10:41:13 -0400 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@attbi.com> Subject: Amsoil Synthetic ATF for Manual Transmission I have heard about people using Redline D4 ATF and Mobil One ATF in their manual transmission, but has anyone tried Amsoil Synthetic Universal ATF? Opinions? I can not tell from Amsoil's web site whether it meets the D4 specification (which I believe refers to meeting the upcoming Dexron IV specification). Geof
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#7. [E36M3] Soft Brakes - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 10:52:10 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: [E36M3] Soft Brakes Just as another data point --> I use a Motive brake bleeder (the simple pressure bleeder that attaches to the brake reservoir and pushes fluid through the brake system) and have no issues with either of my cars (95 M3 with 40k miles and a 90 325is with 90k miles) with brake pedal feel or location of the brake pedal. Both are firm and the brake pedal is high. Pedal feel is very good with no squishiness. When I rebuilt the calipers on the 325is and installed stainless brake lines (a lot of air was introduced into the system since the lines were off for a couple of weeks), the pedal feel was very squishy initially, I rebled and got more air out and the pedal feel was much better but still a little squishy and a tad worse than before I started the project. I rebled one more time and the pedal feel is very good now and better than ever (and as good as the Mintex street pads will ever feel I bet). I highly doubt much air is introduced into the fluid at 15 psi with a Motive Brake Bleeder. Regards, Rich 95 M3 - firm brake pedal with R4S pads (for now) 90 325is - firm brake pedal with Mintex pads
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#8. RE: [E36M3] Soft Brakes - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 11:22:48 -0400 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Soft Brakes My M3 has a brake pedal that operates "up high", and doesn't take alot of movement to fully engage the brakes. And it doesn't matter whether I have street pads in (brand new, full pad thickness) or track pads (PF90s, less than 50% pad after this weekend); the pedal still engages "up high". The brake system compensates for pad wear by keeping the caliper pistons extended further as the brake pads wear. So, you shouldn't have a brake pedal that drops as your pads wear. I drove another list member's '95 M3 last year, and his brake pedal moves quite a bit before engaging. As Neil said, it's a very strange experience. I don't know anyone who's used old backing plates as shims, but I wouldn't be comfortable doing this for my car. Ron Buchalski BMWCCA #76387 1995 E36 M3 1993 E34 525iT 1999 Mazda Miata PS: I also had the opportunity to meet Chester Wong, Wayne Miller, and Jim El Nabli at Summit Point this past weekend, and we talked about cars, upgrades, repairs, driving, etc. It was also amazing to see how much stuff those three guys can pack in their cars, and how quickly they get it finished! >Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 16:15:15 -0400 >From: "Michael Gilbert" <mjg2002@attbi.com> >Subject: RE: [E36M3] Soft Brakes > >Hey Wayne, > >When your brakes were soft, did you have fresh pads in them or were they >~1/2 worn? I found that when I had fresh pads the pedal >was all the way to the top, and no matter how much I bled the brakes they >were a little soft when they were >1/2 worn. > >Here's a tip courtesy of Denis Friedman of the Boston chapter. Make up 8 >"blanks" with brake pad bones - just the metal backing >plates - to use as spacers. Grind off the remaining pad material and any >metal nubs that may be on that particular pad. When the >brakes were ~1/2 worn, insert one backing plate on each wheel behind the >pad (doesn't matter inside or outside). Then when you're >about 2/3 worn, put the second in behind the other side. That way the >calipers are at almost full extension all the time and the >pedal throw will be like new. I believe you may find your E46 exhibits the >same behavior once you start to wear those new Carbotech >pads down..... Only thing is you want to check your brake pads regularly, >as is the case anyway but this method assumes you will >be running your pads down to almost nothing. The spacers help a lot with >heat dissipation too! > >Just my $0.02... > >-Mike > >97 M3 IS #121 _________________________________________________________________ Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
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#9. Re: [E36M3] 95 M3 intake Upgrade Fun - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 10:26:26 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] 95 M3 intake Upgrade Fun Jake McClean <sin@mail.value.net> wrote: > > What's the easiest way to check the throttle body to see if is > standard/larger? Just measure the opening - or is there an external > marking of some sort? Doesn't matter. The consensus is that a larger TB does not does nothing. It's potential presence should have no effect on any subsequent upgrade decisions or paths. > With the euro HFM (with the larger 3.5" diameter), will I need to > chuck the smaller 3" AA intake that's currently in place to get > any benefit? Yes. You could enlarge the shield hole, but would still need new larger pipe and 3.5" diameter cone filter. > (actually, here's a question.. are the HP gains from the euro HFM > from solely due to the increase in diameter, Yep. alex f
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Soft Brakes - from Mike Frank
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Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 10:20:06 -0500 From: Mike Frank <mfrank28@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Soft Brakes Neil and others, It's good to know I'm not the only one with soft brakes. For a long time I used the Steve D. cap in combination with manually pumping the pedal. Brakes felt good. Put on stainless lines, no problems. However, after rebuilding the front calipers I used a friends new "bug sprayer" bleeder (as Chester affectionately refers to it) and my brakes are now soft. Re-bled manually, w/Steve D adapter, activated ABS, tapped calipers with hammer, etc. Brakes got a little better but still soft. Not sure if it was the caliper rebuild, the bug sprayer, or other cause. The main problem I noticed was the pedal being soft and going further to the floor. If I pump the pedal quickly once, the pedal will be much firmer and not go as far to the floor on the second press. If anyone can figure this out I'm pretty sure you'll have lots of new friends. Mike Frank 97 M3 > --- Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> wrote: > > My usual Super Blue - fluid is new after I rebuilt all four calipers and > > replaced the lines a month or so ago. Already flushed and bled, drove > around > > and activated ABS and DSC, bled again. > > > > And before you ask, no I'm not sure how soft the pedal was before I did > that > > work. Not only does the body adapt, but the mind does too...