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#1. RE: [E36M3] Amsoil Synthetic ATF for Manual Transmission - from Mel Silva
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Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 11:10:59 -0500 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Amsoil Synthetic ATF for Manual Transmission Geof, I have been using the Amsoil ATF in my transmission since I bought the car two years ago. I run the 20W50 motor oil as well, and the gear lube in the diff (I forgot what the spec is). I rely on Amsoil for two reasons: 1st) After running my open track Ford for two years, I disassembled the motor to replace the heads and camshaft. Not only was inside of the motor pristine clean, but there were no visible signs of any scuff marks or wear (even on the hydraulic lifters which should at least show some scuff marks) and 2nd) Both the engine oil and the transmission oil showed significant drops in temperature after switching to Amsoil synthetics. I have used Mobil 1 (when I needed to change all 8 quarts at Thunderhill and the Willows Wal*Mart is the only place around that's open on Sunday) and my experience is that Mobil 1 did not show the 30 degree drop in temperature that the Amsoil did (I'm talking crankcase oil here). So, even though I don't open track my M3, I still use Amsoil because my experience with it has been very good. Others may see these same benefits from Redline, Mobil 1 or Royal Purple, and more power to them. I'm just sold on the Amsoil product line. As far as meeting the Dexron IV spec., Amsoil ATF is only rated at Dexron III, or Mercon V (which is a higher rating than Dexron III). Mel -----Original Message----- From: Geof McLaughlin [mailto:gfmiiilist@attbi.com] Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2003 9:46 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Amsoil Synthetic ATF for Manual Transmission Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 10:41:13 -0400 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@attbi.com> Subject: Amsoil Synthetic ATF for Manual Transmission I have heard about people using Redline D4 ATF and Mobil One ATF in their manual transmission, but has anyone tried Amsoil Synthetic Universal ATF? Opinions? I can not tell from Amsoil's web site whether it meets the D4 specification (which I believe refers to meeting the upcoming Dexron IV specification). Geof ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#2. Re: Amsoil Synthetic ATF for Manual Transmission - from James Clay
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Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 12:18:40 -0400 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Re: Amsoil Synthetic ATF for Manual Transmission I used Amsoil for a while in a tow rig but never felt good about the distribution of it. Redline and Mobil are so helpful when it comes to tech questions that it is hard for me to go to someone else. On another note, we started using Redline MT-90 for track car transmissions. I have it in my street car and it is definitely not terribly viscous on 0deg mornings, but warms up nicely. It was the only fluid that would keep the E36 325 transmissions together for us (they are terrible), so I would extrapolate this to it being a better fluid for other BMW manual transmissions that call for ATF. James James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance 540.639.9648
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#3. RE: [E36M3] Soft Brakes - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 09:15:13 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Soft Brakes Some have asked about the exact procedure I used. Here goes: - Steve D cap plus either the bleeder version with the pressure regular for use with coventional air pressure lines or the bug sprayer container with *no* fluid in the container. It's a pain to use the later method as releasing the pressure and then repressurizing between reservoir fills is a pain. - I have someone (usually Wayne though my mom has helped once) pump the brakes while all nipples are closed. Pump onto pedal is very firm. - Second person holds pressure on brake pedal while nipple is still closed - Crack open the nipple - Pedal goes to floor where second person holds it there - Close nipple - Second person pumps brakes until pedal is firm again - Repeat as many times as desired - For the final bleed at the corner, I crack open and then immediately close the nipple to ensure no air goes in I like having the 20 psi at the reservoir to make absolutely sure that fluid is always flowing out. Also, a heavy brake pedal pressure applied to force the fluid out faster seems to be more effective (you can sometimes here the air travel through the lines). Chester --- Mike Frank <mfrank28@comcast.net> wrote: > It's good to know I'm not the only one with soft brakes. For a long > time I used the Steve D. cap in combination with manually pumping the > pedal. Brakes felt good. Put on stainless lines, no problems. > However, after rebuilding the front calipers I used a friends new "bug > sprayer" bleeder (as Chester affectionately refers to it) and my brakes > are now soft. Re-bled manually, w/Steve D adapter, activated ABS, > tapped calipers with hammer, etc. Brakes got a little better but still > soft. Not sure if it was the caliper rebuild, the bug sprayer, or other > cause. The main problem I noticed was the pedal being soft and going > further to the floor. If I pump the pedal quickly once, the pedal will > be much firmer and not go as far to the floor on the second press. If > anyone can figure this out I'm pretty sure you'll have lots of new > friends. =====
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#4. Re: Soft Brakes - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 11:23:04 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Soft Brakes on 4/15/03 10:46 AM, Mike Frank <mfrank28@comcast.net> wrote: > It's good to know I'm not the only one with soft brakes. For a long > time I used the Steve D. cap in combination with manually pumping the > pedal. Brakes felt good. Put on stainless lines, no problems. > However, after rebuilding the front calipers I used a friends new "bug > sprayer" bleeder (as Chester affectionately refers to it) and my brakes > are now soft. Re-bled manually, w/Steve D adapter, activated ABS, > tapped calipers with hammer, etc. Brakes got a little better but still > soft. Not sure if it was the caliper rebuild, the bug sprayer, or other > cause. The main problem I noticed was the pedal being soft and going > further to the floor. If I pump the pedal quickly once, the pedal will > be much firmer and not go as far to the floor on the second press. If > anyone can figure this out I'm pretty sure you'll have lots of new > friends. Mike, That pretty much describes my situation exactly. Neil 96 M3
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#5. Re: Differential Cover - from Pedro Aceves
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Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 11:44:55 -0600 From: Pedro Aceves <aceves@mac.com> Subject: Re: Differential Cover OOPS, I'm running Racing Dynamics sway bars. Pedro. On Tuesday, April 15, 2003, at 09:46 AM, E36M3 wrote: > -------------------- 2 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 07:15:16 -0400 > From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Differential Cover Replacement > > You forgot to mention which sway bars to you have? > > Jeremy Lucas > 95 M3 > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Pedro Aceves" <aceves@mac.com> > To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2003 2:26 AM > Subject: [E36M3] RE: Differential Cover Replacement > > >> Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 00:26:04 -0600 >> From: Pedro Aceves <aceves@mac.com> >> Subject: RE: Differential Cover Replacement >> >> I just did this today and I must say It is a major PIA! >> >> I usually never follow instructions but decided to follow the ones > that >> came with my new Rogue Cover. >> I should of stuck to my routine of not reading instructions! Every >> thing works to a "T" but beware if you have after market sways. Some >> problems with after-market sways if you follow the instructions are >> (which specify to reinstall the sways before you put the differential >> back on): >> 1.) You can't even get the differential into position. >> 2.) If you "were" able to get it into position you would not be able > to >> tighten the two bolts to the sub-frame. >> 3.) You will have to force your sway into position between the spare >> tire well and the differential cover (I used a rubber mallet, one good >> whack should do it) . >> >> One other note, you thought clearance was bad to the fill plug before >> It's even tighter now! >> >> Well that was my experience. >> >> Pedro. > > >
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#6. re: soft pedal - from kim.burgess@att.net
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Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 19:21:06 +0000 From: kim.burgess@att.net Subject: re: soft pedal I too experience the second stroke firm pedal syndrome. All I can figure out is that I boiled the fluid at my last event, and need to pressure-bled again...and that I have a bit of wear on the pads/rotors in spite of the fact that the system is self adjusting. Can the pads (stock) soften as result of over-heating and yield soft pedal? How much heat at the caliper does it take to heat the fluid to a point of softening (damaging) the rubber brake fluid lines? Kim Burgess Mike wrote: "If I pump the pedal quickly once, the pedal will be much firmer and not go as far to the floor on the second press. If anyone can figure this out I'm pretty sure you'll have lots of new friends!"
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#7. RE: Front Control Arm Torque Specs - from kim.burgess@att.net
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Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 19:28:26 +0000 From: kim.burgess@att.net Subject: RE: Front Control Arm Torque Specs Also or approximately 415.9853 pound-force inches or 34.66537 pound-force foot KLB Thanks Ben! Ben wrote: Front Control Arm Torque Specs For E36, torque to 47 Nm. Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com 201-444-8150
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#8. [E36M3] re: soft pedal - from Tom Melton
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Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 16:21:52 -0400 From: "Tom Melton" <tom_melton@emoryhealthcare.org> Subject: [E36M3] re: soft pedal When I have seen this on other cars, the problem has always been one of two things, either tapered pads or rotor runout. With tapered pads, typical of a lot of braking systems that see track duty, the first pedal stroke pushes the pads to the rotors, the second stroke then feels normal. With rotor runout, the runout knocks the pistons back into the caliper (if fixed caliper), or knocks the pistons into the caliper and the fixed pad away from the rotor (if floating caliper). IE, the wobble pushes the pads away. Again, the first pedal stroke pushes the pads to the rotors, the second stroke then again feels normal. One cause of apparent rotor runout can be bad bearings. Sloppy bearings allow the rotor to wobble in the caliper, simulating rotor runout. Another item that can simulate rotor runout is two piece (floating) rotors. If the rotor does not spin perfectly flat, then again the pads get knocked away, and you get a long pedal. For those of you with this problem, do the following. Park the car, push the pedal down, release, and push down again. How does the pedal feel on the second stroke? Normal? Leave the car for 4 hours, press the pedal ONCE, how does the pedal stroke feel? Normal? Roll the car at least so the tires rotate a few turns and stop the motion WITHOUT using the brakes. IE, push it on a level surface, and stop it by hand. Press the pedal ONCE, how does the pedal stroke feel? Abnormal? Reply back after the above tests are done. I am interested to hear/read the results. Tom Melton 95 M3 82 Vette 86 Vette etc >>> <kim.burgess@att.net> 04/15/03 03:26PM >>> Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 19:21:06 +0000 From: kim.burgess@att.net Subject: re: soft pedal I too experience the second stroke firm pedal syndrome. All I can figure out is that I boiled the fluid at my last event, and need to pressure-bled again...and that I have a bit of wear on the pads/rotors in spite of the fact that the system is self adjusting. Can the pads (stock) soften as result of over-heating and yield soft pedal? How much heat at the caliper does it take to heat the fluid to a point of softening (damaging) the rubber brake fluid lines? Kim Burgess Mike wrote: "If I pump the pedal quickly once, the pedal will be much firmer and not go as far to the floor on the second press. If anyone can figure this out I'm pretty sure you'll have lots of new friends!" ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#9. Obscure(?) Tool Question - from K. Bishop
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Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 21:55:25 -0500 From: "K. Bishop" <kbishop371@attbi.com> Subject: Obscure(?) Tool Question What is the right type of tool to use on the ribbed bolts that attach the drive axle to the final drive flange? A female Torx socket? If so, what size? Thanks for the help! Kevin Bishop
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Obscure(?) Tool Question - from Chris Teague
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Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 20:22:13 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Obscure(?) Tool Question Kevin, It's an external torx, E12 I believe. I got a set of of 8 sizes for like $16 at Kragen, or Snap-on has them for like $8 each. Mine are Lisle. Some have found them at Sears, but my local Sears didn't carry them. Chris ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 21:55:25 -0500 > From: "K. Bishop" <kbishop371@attbi.com> > Subject: Obscure(?) Tool Question > > What is the right type of tool to use on the ribbed bolts that attach the > drive axle to the final drive flange? A female Torx socket? If so, what > size? > > Thanks for the help! > > Kevin Bishop