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#1. my computer sensor is acting funny - from Henry Wu
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Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 23:44:50 -0400 From: "Henry Wu" <hw711@hotmail.com> Subject: my computer sensor is acting funny The in dash computer kept on telling me my windshield washer fluid is low when it's actually at least half full. Anyone know what may be the problem? Henry _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus
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#2. RE: [E36M3] soft pedal - from Mike Frank
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Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 00:40:27 -0500 From: Mike Frank <mfrank28@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] soft pedal Just to add more info. My pedal felt soft after rebuilding the calipers and bleeding with the bug sprayer, however I also put on new pads and rotors at the same time (and obviously fresh fluid). Soft pedal continued after 2 more bleeds and with different pads. The pedal felt firm before with warped rotors, bad wheel bearings, "not so fresh" fluid, and everything from new pads to little more than a backing plate. I'm leaning towards air in the caliper or elsewhere. Still puzzled. Mike > -------------------- 6 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 19:21:06 +0000 > From: kim.burgess@att.net > Subject: re: soft pedal > > I too experience the second stroke firm pedal syndrome. All I > can figure out is > that I boiled the fluid at my last event, and need to pressure-bled > again...and that I have a bit of wear on the pads/rotors in > spite of the fact > that the system is self adjusting. Can the pads (stock) > soften as result of > over-heating and yield soft pedal? How much heat at the > caliper does it take to > heat the fluid to a point of softening (damaging) the rubber > brake fluid lines?
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#3. RE: [E36M3] soft pedal - from Mike Frank
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Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 00:45:23 -0500 From: Mike Frank <mfrank28@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] soft pedal Tom, Very interesting. Makes sense, but please see my previous post in reply to Kim re: condition of rotors/bearings/etc. I'll try what you said and report back. Mike 97 M3 > -------------------- 8 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 16:21:52 -0400 > From: "Tom Melton" <tom_melton@emoryhealthcare.org> > Subject: [E36M3] re: soft pedal > > When I have seen this on other cars, the problem has always > been one of two things, either tapered pads or rotor runout. > <Snip> > > For those of you with this problem, do the following. Park > the car, push the pedal down, release, and push down again. > How does the pedal feel on the second stroke? Normal? > > Leave the car for 4 hours, press the pedal ONCE, how does the > pedal stroke feel? Normal? > > Roll the car at least so the tires rotate a few turns and > stop the motion WITHOUT using the brakes. IE, push it on a > level surface, and stop it by hand. Press the pedal ONCE, > how does the pedal stroke feel? Abnormal? > > Reply back after the above tests are done. I am interested > to hear/read the results. > > Tom Melton > 95 M3 > 82 Vette > 86 Vette > etc
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#4. Adjusting Konis - from Mike Frank
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Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 00:51:29 -0500 From: Mike Frank <mfrank28@comcast.net> Subject: Adjusting Konis Can anyone remind me which way to turn my Koni Sports to increase/decrease rebound damping. Can't find my instructions. I think the fronts are counter-clockwise for more damping, clockwise for less, No? Are the rears the same or opposite. Thanks, Mike Frank 97 M3 that needs a little less rebound damping in the rear.
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#5. Racelogic GB - 30% off (long) - from Jeremy Lucas
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Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 06:12:56 -0400 From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> Subject: Racelogic GB - 30% off (long) Mostly just an FYI, in case anybody was sitting on the fence... In a previous correspondence they told me that "installation of the main unit takes about 8 hours and the cockpit adjuster takes about 1 hour. All Racelogic systems are somewhat generic so the installation does involve splicing. Of course we solder all the wiring together for the best contact and cover it with shrink wrap for a factory look." I believe there are some listers that have this system, including Alan Taur's "it has everything" M3, and there should be some posts about it the archive. From my understanding, this is not just a system for slippery conditions and that is it has a lot of dry track benefit too. Looking at Alan's website http://www.hghtransitional.com/public/95M3/tech_procedures.htm (near the bottom) it looks he did the install himself. If anyone else has some comments, I'd love to hear them. See also http://www.racelogic.co.uk/ for more information. I'd be a little more tempted myself if the shop was more local to me but I think I'm going to pass at this time. If there is anyone that has it in Ohio or is going to be at MidOhio for one of the driver's ed events I'd be interested in checking out your car. Jeremy Lucas 95 M3 ----- Original Message ----- From: Matrix Engineering Jeremy, Anyways, I just wanted to inform all of you about a group buy(GB) we are doing on the Racelogic systems. It was started with the Supra and RX-7 crowd, but it has now transferred over to Vipers, Corvettes, Mustangs, BMW, MR2's, etc. Anyone who would like to get in on this ONE-TIME ONLY pricing is more than welcome to do so. We are currently offering 30% off of retail pricing; Retail Racelogic Adjustable TC w/ ABS; (Max 12cyl) 995RLTC6A Racelogic Adjustable TC w/ (Wheel Speed)WSS; (Max 12cyl) 995RLTC6AW Racelogic Adjustable TC w/ Launch Control & ABS; (4/6cyl) 1150RLTC6AL Racelogic Adjustable TC w/ Launch Control & WSS; (4/6cyl) 1150RLTC6ALW Racelogic Adjustable TC w/ Launch Control & ABS; (8cyl) 1300RLTC8AL Racelogic Adjustable TC w/ Launch Control & WSS; (8cyl) 1300RLTC8ALW Racelogic Adjustable TC w/ LC, Data Logging & ABS; (4/6/8cyl) 1595RLTC6ALD; RLTC8ALD Racelogic Adjustable TC w/ LC, Data Logging & WSS; (4/6/8cyl) 1595RLTC6ALDW; RLTC8ALDW Set of 4 Wheel Speed Sensors405TCWSS MSD/Diesel/Ignition Interface275TCII/MSD Full Throttle Shift175TCCLUSHIFT Discounted 30% Racelogic Adjustable TC w/ ABS; (Max 12cyl) 696.50RLTC6A Racelogic Adjustable TC w/ (Wheel Speed)WSS; (Max 12cyl) 696.50RLTC6AW Racelogic Adjustable TC w/ Launch Control & ABS; (4/6cyl) 805RLTC6AL Racelogic Adjustable TC w/ Launch Control & WSS; (4/6cyl) 805RLTC6ALW Racelogic Adjustable TC w/ Launch Control & ABS; (8cyl) 910RLTC8AL Racelogic Adjustable TC w/ Launch Control & WSS; (8cyl) 910RLTC8ALW Racelogic Adjustable TC w/ LC, Data Logging & ABS; (4/6/8cyl) 1116.50RLTC6ALD; RLTC8ALD Racelogic Adjustable TC w/ LC, Data Logging & WSS; (4/6/8cyl) 1116.50RLTC6ALDW; RLTC8ALDW Set of 4 Wheel Speed Sensors283.50TCWSS MSD/Diesel/Ignition Interface192.50TCII/MSD Full Throttle Shift122.50TCCLUSHIFT Here is a thread to look at for what has been taking place; http://www.supraforums.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=115506&perpage=25& pagenumber=1 Again, this pricing will most likely never be offered again so now is the time to join in. If you are interested, please send me your information(Name, car model/make/year, and what system you are interested in). The GB is set to commence at the end of the month. At first we were looking to take deposits at that time but since the number of orders is over double what we expected(we're at 40 right now), we may start to take deposits very soon so Racelogic can get a jump on the systems. If so, I can contact you then for payment info. Of course if there are any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. Thanks for your time. Best regards, Jeremy Williams Matrix Engineering 4060 SW Macadam Ave. Portland, OR 97239 503.443.1141 Tech 503.443.1142 Fax 888.249.0013 Orders jeremy@matrixengineering.cc www.matrixengineering.cc
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#6. RE: camber plate - from David Hogg
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Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 06:42:17 -0400 From: "David Hogg" <springwood@blazenet.net> Subject: RE: camber plate I'd love to get my hands on a set of these "Version 2" camber plates that Bob described, with the three holes for settings. How can I get these, if at all? Dave Hogg
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#7. [E36M3] Susp setup help please - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 06:21:47 -0700 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> Subject: [E36M3] Susp setup help please Went out to my favorite parking lot to do some skid pad testing prior to DE this weekend. I'm getting some confusing readings on tire temps. I have 255/35-18 S03s, on 8.5" wheels at all 4 corners. Using H&R OE Sport springs, Koni SAs and RD sways. Front camber -3, rear camber -2. Outer edges of tires are running too hot, eg front outer 151, center 130, inner 109 @ 34psi. I'm trying to get them to be closer in temp to the inner edges. Since I can't stiffen the springs and I don't want to go to any more negative camber, I've tried to go stiffer on the sways to increase roll stiffness. I already have the rebound set pretty stiff (.5 turn from full stiff). But, it seems like the outer edges are running hotter than with the sways set softer. Of course, it may be because the two sessions were at different parking lots, with different amounts of adhesion. Or, because the diameter of the circle was different. Any thoughts? Is my logic correct? Thanks - Jay
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#8. RE: [E36M3] Susp setup help please - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 07:06:01 -0700 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Susp setup help please Mike- By deltas, if you mean the differences between front and rear temps, then yes they are worse on the front. On the same run, the rears were O,131; C,110; I,108. I'm just getting to the edge of the triangles. The car seems very balanced. Maybe a teeny bit of understeer. Front tires squeeled just a little when they started heating up. From what I've come up with so far, seems like 34 lbs is optimal, but I can sure try some more to see what happens. If I'm as good as I can get, I'm OK with that. Just wanted to make sure I was doing what I could. Thanks for your input/advice. Jay At 09:40 AM 4/16/03 -0400, you wrote: >Hi Jay, > >Are the tire deltas greater on the front or rear or all around? I'm guessing the front is the worst. Is the car balanced, or does >it have a tendency to understeer or oversteer on the skidpad? How does the tire scrub look on the outside of the tire? You may >simpy not have enough air in the tire and are getting too much rollover on the outer edge. Try bumping up the pressure and see what >that does for you. Chalk the tires on the edges so you can see how much rollover you're getting - it should go right to the tire >wear marks (triangles) on the S03s. > >If that doesn't work, I believe that you may just end up having to increase the camber, or since you don't want to do that, suck it >up and live with it... Ultimately it's the camber taht's not properly tuned. > >-Mike > >-----Original Message----- >From: Jay W. Hudson [mailto:jwhud@cdsnet.net] >Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2003 9:26 AM >To: E36M3 >Subject: [E36M3] Susp setup help please > > >Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 06:21:47 -0700 >From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> >Subject: [E36M3] Susp setup help please > >Went out to my favorite parking lot to do some skid pad testing prior to DE >this weekend. I'm getting some confusing readings on tire temps. > >I have 255/35-18 S03s, on 8.5" wheels at all 4 corners. Using H&R OE Sport >springs, Koni SAs and RD sways. Front camber -3, rear camber -2. > >Outer edges of tires are running too hot, eg front outer 151, center 130, >inner 109 @ 34psi. I'm trying to get them to be closer in temp to the >inner edges. > >Since I can't stiffen the springs and I don't want to go to any more >negative camber, I've tried to go stiffer on the sways to increase roll >stiffness. I already have the rebound set pretty stiff (.5 turn from full >stiff). > >But, it seems like the outer edges are running hotter than with the sways >set softer. > >Of course, it may be because the two sessions were at different parking >lots, with different amounts of adhesion. Or, because the diameter of the >circle was different. > >Any thoughts? Is my logic correct? > >Thanks - Jay > > > > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: >Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > > >
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#9. Soft Brakes - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 10:41:57 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Soft Brakes Chester says > > Steve D cap plus either the bleeder version with the pressure regular for use > with conventional air pressure lines or the bug sprayer container with *no* > fluid in the container. I am curious how you figure your method doesn't "introduce fine bubbles into the fluid" as you are pressurizing to 20 psi but using a "bug sprayer container" filled with fluid does "introduce fine bubbles into the fluid"? > It's a pain to use the later method as releasing the > pressure and then repressurizing between reservoir fills is a pain. Sure would be, so why don't you just use it like it was intended and fill the bottle with fluid. Also, I have gone and modified my Motive brake bleeder with the addition of some quick release couplers (makes it easier to screw on the cap and to switch between two different caps I have..BMW and Honda) and a bleed off valve that easily can depressurize the bleeder and keep the pressure from going above 20 psi. Also, why are you using air pressure and pedal pressure, seems redundant to me. Regards, Rich
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#10. Re: Soft Brakes - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 07:50:44 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Soft Brakes --- "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> wrote: > Chester says > > > > Steve D cap plus either the bleeder version with the pressure regular for > use > > with conventional air pressure lines or the bug sprayer container with *no* > > fluid in the container. > > I am curious how you figure your method doesn't "introduce fine bubbles into > the fluid" as you are pressurizing to 20 psi but using a "bug sprayer > container" filled with fluid does "introduce fine bubbles into the fluid"? When I use the bug sprayer, the bottle is empty. I'm just using it as a source of air pressure. The typical way to use the bug sprayer is to fill the bottle with fluid. As you pump and pressurize the container, air is forced through the brake fluid. Alternatively, one can modify the bug sprayer setup and place a cutoff container around the bottom of the air pump so that fluid does not come into direct contact. > > It's a pain to use the later method as releasing the > > pressure and then repressurizing between reservoir fills is a pain. > > Sure would be, so why don't you just use it like it was intended and fill the > bottle with fluid. For the reasons I cited above. > Also, I have gone and modified my Motive brake bleeder > with the addition of some quick release couplers (makes it easier to screw on > the cap and to switch between two different caps I have..BMW and Honda) and a > bleed off valve that easily can depressurize the bleeder and keep the > pressure from going above 20 psi. Doesn't really matter anymore since I went and bought a Craftsman air tank for $49 ish. Pressurize that to 20 psi at the service station and now I have 20psi that will certainly last me enough for a single flush if not more. A few quick disconnect fittings and pressurizing/depressurizing is easy. > Also, why are you using air pressure and pedal pressure, seems redundant to > me. If you use just pedal pressure, there might be a possibility that air goes back into the nipple on the upstroke. Keeping it pressurized ensures that fluid is always oozing out. Just using pressure alone, to me, doesn't seem to force all air out. Just my $.02 ....feel free to bleed your brakes whichever way you want. Chester =====