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#1. RogueFEST 2003, featuring 330/332tis - from Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering
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Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 12:39:10 -0400 From: "Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering" <ben@rogueengineering.com> Subject: RogueFEST 2003, featuring 330/332tis A bit of a late announcement, but we're having our annual event, RogueFEST. It's the perfect excuse to come hang out at our facilities, bench race, and have a relaxing time on a Saturday. We're planning some tech sessions, giveaways, and we'll have a special area for the Compact 6 Group, those owners with M3 motors transplanted into their 318tis. If you have a 318ti and plan on modifying it, here's your chance to speak to them about those upgrades. Zeckhausen Racing will also be attending, showing the latest products from Brembo and StopTech. We're expecting lots of E46 M3s, E39 M5s & 540s, and many other modified BMWs. Heck, there even may be an E30 M3. Got a BMW, MINI or just like these cars? Come on by! Bring your friends! Admission: FREE, with pre-registration on our website. $3 at the day of the event. Date/Time: April 26th, Saturday. 10am-4pm. Event Flyer: http://www.rogueengineering.com/pics/refest_flyer2.jpg Details at our website: http://www.rogueengineering.com Regards, Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com 201-444-8150
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#2. Upper Radiator Neck - from Mike Frank
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Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 12:00:57 -0500 From: Mike Frank <mfrank28@comcast.net> Subject: Upper Radiator Neck While I'm waiting for a good (fits correctly) aluminum radiator, I keep wondering how much longer the stock one will last, specifically the upper radiator neck. Has anyone successfully reinforced this area? A BMW tech told me that the new radiators come with a metal sleeve inside for reinforcement. Can anyone confirm this, confirm when they started, or confirm that OEMs have this as well, like Behr. Thanks, Mike Frank 97 M3
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#3. Clock - from Patrick Dargan
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Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 18:12:26 -0400 From: "Patrick Dargan" <darg01@earthlink.net> Subject: Clock Anyone know how to set AM/PM on the clock? Doesn't seem to be covered in the manual. Pat D.
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#4. RE: [E36M3] Clock - from Mel Silva
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Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 17:56:51 -0500 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Clock Press "Time" then "set" then use the "mph/kph" switch to change AM to PM Mel -----Original Message----- From: Patrick Dargan [mailto:darg01@earthlink.net] Sent: Friday, April 18, 2003 5:16 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Clock Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 18:12:26 -0400 From: "Patrick Dargan" <darg01@earthlink.net> Subject: Clock Anyone know how to set AM/PM on the clock? Doesn't seem to be covered in the manual. Pat D. ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Clock - from Bruce
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Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 18:22:44 -0500 From: "Bruce" <gobuffs93@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Clock You can also hit the "1000" button 2 times to switch between them. Bruce 95 M3 89 M3 2.5 > Press "Time" then "set" then use the "mph/kph" switch to change AM to PM > Anyone know how to set AM/PM on the clock? > > Doesn't seem to be covered in the manual.
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#6. Freaked out windows (first wouldn't go down then not up) - from Dave Spragg
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Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 22:27:44 -0400 From: "Dave Spragg" <dspragg@attbi.com> Subject: Freaked out windows (first wouldn't go down then not up) Hi Gruppe, Long but I hope I have the details and could use help... Races soon and I need windows at least for driving to the track. As a regular lurker here I know this is the crew to ask. I have a race car that is a 92 318is but was turned into a 1995 M3 effectively by Will Turner for his own personal car back in 1995-1996. It's a stout and reliable car but today it's giving me fits. First the passenger side window wouldn't go down and just clicked when you pressed the control to go up (which is normal when it's all the way up) but when you pressed the control to go down no sound, no movement... Nothing. Weird I thought but it has been a long winter. I then went off to work on it at a friend's shop for the afternoon and ignored it. As I was leaving I decided to show him and see what he thought but now the window went down just fine... Only it would not go up. I swapped the switches and the behavior was the same, the wiring looks fine as it's visible in this stripped race car. So next we pulled and tugged a little and finally I relented and drilled out all the nice little aluminum rivets that hold my hand cut aluminum interior door panels on (this made me sad) and started checking with a test light. Eventually we took the panel off the motor unit with a bunch of little torx nuts and then applied power to the motor directly and up the window went. Cleaned up the prongs on that panel that came off (which has a little circuit board and such in it) and put it back together and it worked. Yay! And next the car wouldn't start. :) The battery started the car fine but it has only been run every week or two for 5-10 minutes through the long winter and I guess all my fooling around weakened it enough that it couldn't crank. Take a booster box and fire up the car and wave good bye and head home (1 mile drive). Get home and the drivers side window will only go up 5 inches and then acts like it's at the top. The "all the way up" and incremental amount movement works fine and down works but it will only go up 5 inches. Argghhhh! Now I am thinking the computer is confused so I call up Autobahn Automotive in Natick and Chip tells me to just hold the button for 10 seconds at the top and bottom each to reinitialize after a low power or battery disconnect but that the window should still go all the way up. Note the car has never done anything like this before but I remember another friend's race car doing this in the spring. I have tried hooking the car up to jumpers as well as disconnecting the battery for an hour (while charging this battery) and the result is still the same but the car starts easily). Dave Spragg dave@spragg.com 99 M3 street 92 318is #330 IP (95 M3 engine and suspension)
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#7. Rogue LTW Flywheel and Cooper S Ramblings - from David Hogg
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Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 07:11:54 -0400 From: "David Hogg" <springwood@blazenet.net> Subject: Rogue LTW Flywheel and Cooper S Ramblings I've had the Rogue flywheel setup in my (street only) M3/4 now for two weeks and this is really a nice piece. My first impression was that someone had snuck an LT1 motor into my car. Response to initial throttle tip-in is absolutely immediate and noticeably stronger. It makes the whole car feel lighter on its feet. Throttle blips for H&T downshifts sound delightfully race-like. The M3 has plenty of torque to overcome the usual LTW flywheel driveability-from-rest issues (they're not good on street-driven Alfa's, for instance, but no problem at all on the M3). Until Wed. of this week there was no noise from it at all. Wed was hot so I had the a/c on; when the compressor kicks in the idle drops a hair (Sharked). This is just enough to induce a distant mechanical reciprocating sound at idle. It actually sounded like the a/c system itself was a little noisier than it actually is - no one but a veteran BMW person would even notice that the sound didn't belong there. Overall, I'd say if you're going to replace the clutch anyway, DO THIS! UUC also has a nice package that uses the older M5 clutch, and I had a hard time deciding between them - either would produce good results I'm sure. Now, the other really cool thing is I picked up my Mini Cooper S with Sport Package yesterday. Gee whiz, is this thing SWEET! Ride is about the same as the stock M3, but its handling makes the E36 feel like a limo! No question the M3 pulls better, but with different compressor pulleys and a limited slip... Oh, shame on me! The poor thing doesn't even have a hundred miles on the clock. If you haven't driven one yet, what are you waiting for? It has to be driven to be believed. Barb and the 2 kids absolutely love it, and we're every bit as comfy in the sunroofed Mini as in the M3/4 (BTW, I'm 6'-2" and have room to wear a big hat in the Mini). I have a feeling that both the Grand Caravan and the Rogue flywheel will age much more gracefully now... Best wishes for the Joy of Easter to all! Dave Hogg (Wishing the Rogue flywheel were legal for I-Stock...)
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#8. RE: [E36M3] Freaked out windows (first wouldn't go down then not up) ANSWER! - from Dave Spragg
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Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 09:44:17 -0400 From: "Dave Spragg" <dspragg@attbi.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Freaked out windows (first wouldn't go down then not up) ANSWER! Thanks to the folks who took a shot at this one. The winning and correct answer for my race car came from Jim Basset and for that I owe Jim as many beers as he can put away and a steak. Jim's response is below this note and is worth saving because I think this is like the "rotor set screw that wouldn't play"... Eventually it's going to happen to ya. If I didn't have a full cage and therefore do all this work hanging in the door the problem wouldn't have existed but at all time I had either the passenger or driver's door open. Thanks to Matt Malfa who took a shot too thinking the ZKW system would close the windows if you held the key on lock but on my ride it didn't. My whole dash and console is from the 1995 M3 rather than the 92 318is but I thought both would have the ZKW for all but the sunroof (and mine is gutted and welded in anyway). Not sure why that didn't work. Guys, thanks for the help! I have a lot of work to do to get ready for the races May 3/4 at NHIS and not much time to do it in. I greatly appreciate it. Suzy... As usual thanks much for the bandwidth. Dave ==== Jim's excellent and accurate response ==== When the battery is disconnected, the window regulators loose their limit settings. You have to hold the button down in order to get the window to roll up or down. And the door needs to be closed (this is key). So, try this: Get in the car and close the doors. Run the window all the way down by constantly holding the button. Then all the way up - AND HOLD THE BUTTON FOR ~5 SECONDS. This resets the limits. One-touch should now work and the window should work as normal. Every time the battery is disconnected (or goes dead), you need to perform this procedure. Don't know if that will cure your problem, but I had window issues similar to yours while dealing with other problems on the race car. Hope that helps, Jim Bassett =============================================== -----Original Message----- From: Dave Spragg [mailto:dspragg@attbi.com] Sent: Friday, April 18, 2003 9:36 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Freaked out windows (first wouldn't go down then not up) Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 22:27:44 -0400 From: "Dave Spragg" <dspragg@attbi.com> Subject: Freaked out windows (first wouldn't go down then not up) Hi Gruppe, Long but I hope I have the details and could use help... Races soon and I need windows at least for driving to the track. As a regular lurker here I know this is the crew to ask. I have a race car that is a 92 318is but was turned into a 1995 M3 effectively by Will Turner for his own personal car back in 1995-1996. It's a stout and reliable car but today it's giving me fits. First the passenger side window wouldn't go down and just clicked when you pressed the control to go up (which is normal when it's all the way up) but when you pressed the control to go down no sound, no movement... Nothing. Weird I thought but it has been a long winter. I then went off to work on it at a friend's shop for the afternoon and ignored it. As I was leaving I decided to show him and see what he thought but now the window went down just fine... Only it would not go up. I swapped the switches and the behavior was the same, the wiring looks fine as it's visible in this stripped race car. So next we pulled and tugged a little and finally I relented and drilled out all the nice little aluminum rivets that hold my hand cut aluminum interior door panels on (this made me sad) and started checking with a test light. Eventually we took the panel off the motor unit with a bunch of little torx nuts and then applied power to the motor directly and up the window went. Cleaned up the prongs on that panel that came off (which has a little circuit board and such in it) and put it back together and it worked. Yay! And next the car wouldn't start. :) The battery started the car fine but it has only been run every week or two for 5-10 minutes through the long winter and I guess all my fooling around weakened it enough that it couldn't crank. Take a booster box and fire up the car and wave good bye and head home (1 mile drive). Get home and the drivers side window will only go up 5 inches and then acts like it's at the top. The "all the way up" and incremental amount movement works fine and down works but it will only go up 5 inches. Argghhhh! Now I am thinking the computer is confused so I call up Autobahn Automotive in Natick and Chip tells me to just hold the button for 10 seconds at the top and bottom each to reinitialize after a low power or battery disconnect but that the window should still go all the way up. Note the car has never done anything like this before but I remember another friend's race car doing this in the spring. I have tried hooking the car up to jumpers as well as disconnecting the battery for an hour (while charging this battery) and the result is still the same but the car starts easily). Dave Spragg dave@spragg.com 99 M3 street 92 318is #330 IP (95 M3 engine and suspension) ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Freaked out windows (first wouldn't go down then not up) ANSWER! - from Jason Knight
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Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 07:44:43 -0700 (PDT) From: Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Freaked out windows (first wouldn't go down then not up) ANSWER! Curiosity has gotten me on this one. On a race car wouldn't it be desirable to remove the power windows in order to save weight? I've thought about this a bit, and I suppose that the answer is that it isn't cost effective to remove the power window stuff and alter the window mechanism. Or perhaps it isn't allowed in certain classes of bmwcca (or whichever club you run with)? On the wife's race car, the windows were one of the first things to go, but we tow it and the mechanism was broken anyhow. No beer and steak for answering, but I'd be appreciative. Jason --- Dave Spragg <dspragg@attbi.com> wrote: > Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 09:44:17 -0400 > From: "Dave Spragg" <dspragg@attbi.com> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Freaked out windows (first > wouldn't go down then not up) ANSWER! > > answer for my race car came from Jim Basset and for > that I owe Jim as many > beers as he can put away and a steak. > > Dave > > ==== Jim's excellent and accurate response ==== > > Don't know if that will cure your problem, but I had > window issues similar > to yours while dealing with other problems on the > race car. > > Hope that helps, > Jim Bassett > =============================================== > > -----Original Message----- > From: Dave Spragg [mailto:dspragg@attbi.com] > Sent: Friday, April 18, 2003 9:36 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [E36M3] Freaked out windows (first wouldn't > go down then not up) > > > Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 22:27:44 -0400 > From: "Dave Spragg" <dspragg@attbi.com> > Subject: Freaked out windows (first wouldn't go down > then not up) > > Hi Gruppe, > Long but I hope I have the details and could use > help... Races soon and I > need windows at least for driving to the track. >
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#10. Sin City Chapter Driving School May 17-18, 2003 still has openings - from KLchmn@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 20:08:15 EDT From: KLchmn@aol.com Subject: Sin City Chapter Driving School May 17-18, 2003 still has openings Gruppe, I just wanted you all to know that the Sin City Chapter Driving School May 17-18, 2003 still has some openings. This year we lucked out and got on the 2.5 mile ALMS course inside the NASCAR oval for the first time since 1999! This track is fast and fun! Applications can be found on our website under events (or driving events, I forget) at <www.sincitybmwcarclub.com> We take Visa and Mastercard! Cheers, Kirk Lachman Driving Events Coordinator Sin City Chapter, BMW CCA