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#1. RE: [E36M3] Best Handling Car- Depends... - from Bill Kim
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Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 23:39:41 -0500 From: "Bill Kim" <billkim@texas.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Best Handling Car- Depends... Have you checked the alignment recently? Any worn bushing or other suspension problems. I found that my car is an absolute pig and scary at the limit if I had less than 3/8" - 1/4" of total toe in at the rear. I set it to only about 1/8" total and the car was very tail happy and unpredictable. I've driven many different cars at the track and auto-x and the M3 is by far one of the most forgiving and easy to drive cars at the limit. IMO, the article was right on the money... Again, a bad alignment can make the car difficult to drive. Bill > Was the guy who wrote this smocking crack? > I'm by no means a Nuvolari, I know, but my experience with the M3 after 6 > years of ownership and 140K miles is exactly the opposite of this. Once the > M3 decides to go, it goes and most of the time it's gone... I'm not saying > there's not some margin for recovery, but just about every other car I've > driven in my life has been easier to throw around, recover and have fun in > sliding without staining my pants. If you miscalculate with the M3, > something terrible *does* await you... And unless I'm on a track, the M3 is > a car I would NEVER feel comfortable exploring the limits. I'd rather test > the limits on a 400 HP Mustang Cobra... >
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#2. RE: [E36M3] battery - from Dan Malloy
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Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 22:18:17 -0700 From: "Dan Malloy" <dfmalloy@cox.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] battery Build date 7/94, 114,000 miles and still cranking in San Diego. Dan Malloy '95 M3 -----Original Message----- From: LoweSeaton@aol.com [mailto:LoweSeaton@aol.com] Sent: 21 April, 2003 9:36 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] battery Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 00:30:51 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] battery samrl@triad.rr.com writes: > Well, after nearly 9 years my stock battery died on me today > build date of 6/94 and 100,000 miles and went kablooey in the grocery store > > parking lot, in front of an ATM machine :) > Sam, WOW!! I'm bet money that you have the world's longest living M3 battery. 9 years/100,000 miles! Incredible! You got your money's worth out it. ;-) Lowell Seaton '95 M3 - 3 batteries in 7 years/66,000 miles BMW CCA #131505 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#3. RE: [E36M3] Best Handling Car- Depends... - from Roger Baker
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Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 23:24:26 -0700 From: Roger Baker <RogerBkr@netscape.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Best Handling Car- Depends... I've said it before and I'll say it again... the M3 is one of the easiest cars to drive at the limit that I've ever owned, rode or instructed in. It's very predictable, controllable, and communicative at the limit and is a snap to 'hang on the edge' of traction in the corners and survive. Maybe it's just that I learned to drive in old American muscle cars, but the M3's a pussycat. It'll understeer or oversteer when you tell it to. It's never tried to kill me in a corner like many other cars. If you want to learn the meaning of oversteer, or difficult at the limit, try on a 427 Cobra (real or replica), Viper, C4 Corvette, or just about any '60's muscle car! -- Roger Baker juan_rico@captionsinc.com wrote: >I'm by no means a Nuvolari, I know, but my experience with the M3 >after 6 years of ownership and 140K miles is exactly the opposite >of this. Once the M3 decides to go, it goes and most of the time >it's gone... I'm not saying there's not some margin for recovery, >but just about every other car I've driven in my life has been >easier to throw around, recover and have fun in sliding without >staining my pants. If you miscalculate with the M3, something >terrible *does* await you... >
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#4. hard-wiring radar detector - from Scott M
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Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 23:36:26 -0700 From: Scott M <smlists@pacbell.net> Subject: hard-wiring radar detector I recently purchased a V1 radar detector. I want to hard wire it into my '98 M3. Has anyone found a convenient way to do so? I could either tap into an existing ign switched circuit or wire it to an unused switched fuse. V1 has a nice kit that includes the wiring for such an install. I can run the wire along the pass or drivers side and plan to mount the unit up high near the rear view mirror. BTW - used it on a road trip to Portland over the weekend in our 540iT and was quite pleased to find every CHP along I-5. The Oregon fuzz is a bit sneakier and does not seem to leave the radar guns turned on all the time as I never picked up a radar signal in the entire 650 miles I drove there!! The 540 was so much less fatiguing to drive than a Suburban, not to mention a whole lot easier and safer to drive up above 80mph too... Scott '99 540iT '98 M3/4 '01 Suburban '91 Corvette
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#5. RE: [E36M3] hard-wiring radar detector - from Johnny Lee
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Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 03:06:44 -0400 From: Johnny Lee <arionatof@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] hard-wiring radar detector I wired mine using the power supply in the sunroof motor. http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/v1.htm Instead of using the wire-taps from Radio Shack, I just used the parts from the V1 kit. I just use the holder that come with it on the visor. You can use the same procedure for your 540 by just buying an extra kit and visor mount. Johnny 1998 M3/4 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#6. Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Tool - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 08:37:52 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Tool When I replaced my RTABs a while back I did it using the improvised method: Sawzall, bolts, washers, BFH, sweat and swearwords. Never again. So when I stumbled across a low cost RTAB removal and installation tool at www.victoryproductdesign.com, it seemed worth getting one for next time. And it's on sale for only $78 for the month of April (normally $88). Mine came last week. It has a heavy steel receiver into which the RTAB is pulled, a central threaded rod you turn, and a puller bar that engages the outer sleeve of the bushing. The tool is of conventional design, seemingly solid and decently made, and it comes with instructions on how to remove and replace the bushing. I don't expect to use this tool in the immediate future, but now it'll be ready in my tool chest when the time comes. I've heard stories of dealers charging up to $600 to replace these bushings, but even at a more reasonable level this is a tool that more than pays for itself the first time out. Neil 96 M3
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Tool - from Lee E. Piccione
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Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 09:57:25 -0400 From: "Lee E. Piccione" <leepic@smart.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Tool I received the same tool last month. I've got brand new bushings in my car as of last year but I'll be ready for the next time. It's definately worth the price. Lee '95 M3 Violet Neil Maller wrote: > Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 08:37:52 -0500 > From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > Subject: Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Tool > > When I replaced my RTABs a while back I did it using the improvised method: > Sawzall, bolts, washers, BFH, sweat and swearwords. Never again. > > So when I stumbled across a low cost RTAB removal and installation tool at > www.victoryproductdesign.com, it seemed worth getting one for next time. And > it's on sale for only $78 for the month of April (normally $88). > > Mine came last week. It has a heavy steel receiver into which the RTAB is > pulled, a central threaded rod you turn, and a puller bar that engages the > outer sleeve of the bushing. The tool is of conventional design, seemingly > solid and decently made, and it comes with instructions on how to remove and > replace the bushing. > > I don't expect to use this tool in the immediate future, but now it'll be > ready in my tool chest when the time comes. > > I've heard stories of dealers charging up to $600 to replace these bushings, > but even at a more reasonable level this is a tool that more than pays for > itself the first time out. > > Neil > 96 M3 > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > *************************************************
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Tool - from David Bauer
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Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 08:57:40 -0500 From: David Bauer <dbauer@blkbox.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Tool I too recently purchased the tool from Victory Product Design. I agree with Neil that it looks well made and I'll be trying it out as soon as I get around to ordering the GC spacers. I'll post a review afterwards. Dave 95 M3 Neil Maller wrote: > So when I stumbled across a low cost RTAB removal and installation tool at > www.victoryproductdesign.com, it seemed worth getting one for next time. And > it's on sale for only $78 for the month of April (normally $88). > > Mine came last week. It has a heavy steel receiver into which the RTAB is > pulled, a central threaded rod you turn, and a puller bar that engages the > outer sleeve of the bushing. The tool is of conventional design, seemingly > solid and decently made, and it comes with instructions on how to remove and > replace the bushing. >
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#9. Re: [E36M3] hard-wiring radar detector - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 06:28:22 -0700 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] hard-wiring radar detector There's a good chance the reason you didn't pick up any OSP, was because there weren't any. With the state budget cuts we've had over the years, the state police have been cut heavily. I drive I-5 between Grants Pass and Medford 5-6 days a week and don't see many of them. I saw more CHP on my trip home from Thunderhill Saturday than I see OSP in a month :-) Jay At 01:46 AM 4/22/03 -0500, you wrote: >Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 23:36:26 -0700 >From: Scott M <smlists@pacbell.net> >Subject: hard-wiring radar detector > >I recently purchased a V1 radar detector. I want to hard wire it into my >'98 M3. Has anyone found a convenient way to do so? I could either tap >into an existing ign switched circuit or wire it to an unused switched fuse. >V1 has a nice kit that includes the wiring for such an install. I can run >the wire along the pass or drivers side and plan to mount the unit up high >near the rear view mirror. > >BTW - used it on a road trip to Portland over the weekend in our 540iT and >was quite pleased to find every CHP along I-5. The Oregon fuzz is a bit >sneakier and does not seem to leave the radar guns turned on all the time as >I never picked up a radar signal in the entire 650 miles I drove there!! >The 540 was so much less fatiguing to drive than a Suburban, not to mention >a whole lot easier and safer to drive up above 80mph too... > >Scott >'99 540iT >'98 M3/4 >'01 Suburban >'91 Corvette > > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: >Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > > >
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Best Handling Car- Depends... - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 10:37:38 -0400 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Best Handling Car- Depends... Juan, I think your statement says it all: "Apparently, at higher speeds on a track it's a different story, but I haven't been there. I'm not disputing that. Maybe you are all one step away from being professional drivers... When I do my first driving school I'll let you know. Either way, the M3 is a street car first and then maybe a track car." Everyone who disagrees with you has had lots of experience with their M3 on the track, and many people on this list are DE instructors and/or racers. Some probably have more TRACK experience than you have DRIVING experience. Also, the people who test drive cars for a living have had lots of experience with car control, and can manage a car at it's limits. Having attended no DEs, and with your only driving experience consisting of "acts of hooliganism" on the street, do you really consider your driving skills to be on par with these people? It's already been mentioned by others, but the M3 has higher handling limits than other cars. The rear end really sticks well. To break it loose, you need to exceed these high limits, and your driving skills aren't at the level to manage the car at that level. Plain and simple. The M3 has it's weight balanced 50:50, while the weight distribution of a Mustang is front-biased (55:45 or something similar), which tends to let the rear end break loose more easily. They bias the car to understeer with a fat front swaybar, but this can be easily overcome with power. So, you can break it loose at a more manageable level. Does this make the Mustang a better handling car? Also, a Mustang, with solid rear axle and lots of torque at low RPMs, can be provoked into power-on oversteer very easily, as can a Camaro/Firebird. It doesn't take much skill to mash the gas pedal and make this happen, and it happens at such a low level that it's easily catchable. Again, does this characteristic make these cars handle better than an M3? As far as the M3 being better at high speeds...remember, car control applies at low speeds as well as high speeds. If you can't maintain complete car control in your M3 at low speeds, what makes you think you'll be better at high speeds? Sign up for some DE schools, hopefully ones that also have a skidpad, and learn how to explore and manage your M3 at it's limits. You'll change your opinion about the M3's handling capabilities afterwards. Ron Buchalski BMWCCA #76387 1995 E36 M3 1993 E34 525iT 1999 Mazda Miata >Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 18:44:10 -0700 >From: Juan Rico <juan_rico@captionsinc.com> >Subject: RE: [E36M3] Best Handling Car- Depends... > > >For all of you who disagree with me, let me make a little clarification. >My post was in reference to street driving, when driving at slower speeds >and just having fun around corners and letting the tail hang out-- although >not only limited to these acts of hooliganism. I wasn't referring to the >track. I know it's not the safest thing to do on the street, but who hasn't >done this on the street at some point or on a solitary canyon road when >nobody is around? You know all those shots you see in car magazines of road >testers pulling nice slides and drifts on roads? Driving like this is just >not feasible in an M3 unless you are a pro. And even then... >In other cars it's much easier. Is this not a handling issue? > >What I don't like about the M3, and I still firmly believe this, is its >uncertainty which makes it impossible to drive rally style (to put an >extreme example for illustrative and argumentative albeit dramatic >purposes). Also, even driving normally, notice how a lot of people who have >crashed their M3's in the rain will tell you that one moment they were >driving, and all of a sudden because of a change in pavement, or an awkward >camber change, etc. the car started to rotate and was impossible to catch, >corrections or no corrections at the steering wheel. A lot of people have >crashed their M3's this way. When the rainy season comes around, M3's are >body shop queens. The M3 is indeed a very difficult car to spin on the >street in dry conditions, unless you're really driving like a moron. But if >it starts spinning (something that occurs with far more frequency in the >rain) many drivers can only sit and pray... I think it was a British >magazine (EVO, CAR, BMW?) that said once the M3 goes, hold on to dear life, >or something to that effect as a stain in the car's otherwise excellent >review. > >Apparently, at higher speeds on a track it's a different story, >but I haven't been there. I'm not disputing that. Maybe you are all one >step >away from being professional drivers... When I do my first driving school >I'll let you know. Either way, the M3 is a street car first and then maybe >a >track car. > >Juan. > _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail