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#1. RE: [E36M3] Windows won't close! - from Go, Jeffrey
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Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 17:10:12 +0200 From: "Go, Jeffrey" <jeffrey.go@sap.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Windows won't close! Hi all Funny...but not so funny.. I have been seeing this on my 96 M3 for close to 2 years now.. I just figured its not worth the trouble of having someone open the door panel and replace something.. In my experience...once a tech replaces something, it doesn't go back to acting like the original... I just mess with it from time to time to get it to close..it hasn't gotten bad enough for me to have it fixed.. jeff -----Original Message----- From: eevans@planetc.com [mailto:eevans@planetc.com] Sent: Monday, April 21, 2003 8:06 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Windows won't close! Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 22:55:03 -0400 From: eevans@planetc.com Subject: Windows won't close! Gruppe, Speaking of window problems lately. All of a sudden I have 3 E36 cars that have developed the partial roll up disease. On rare occasions they roll up w/o a hiccup, but out of 10 tries I bet it stops prematurely 8 out of 10. I've tried the hold down the button for 10 seconds method and it hasn't solved or improved the problem. My daughter's '93 318 does it, but she has 135K miles so that's not a huge surprise, but my 65K mile '95 M3 does it, my '97 328is.....you get the idea. Since it's mainly the driver's side window I guessing the parts are just worn out, but why now? I see only one fix and that's a new window motor. I've never had this happen on any other of my BMWs w/ electric windows until now and I've owned a lot of Bimmers. Is this a seasonal thing? Is the East TN pollen so thick on the windows that it trips the limiter ;-). All I know is that it's very aggravating. I want my "one touch" back! Evan Evans President Smoky Mountain BMW CCA ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#2. Which viscosity to use? - from Go, Jeffrey
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Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 17:12:22 +0200 From: "Go, Jeffrey" <jeffrey.go@sap.com> Subject: Which viscosity to use? Hi gruppe, I have been using Mobil 1 15-50 here in Northern CA and also when I lived in FL for close to 3 years now.. When I moved here, I noticed that the engine has been sluggish ( will require more gas for acceleration).. Could the oil be too thick>? I am contemplating on switching to 5w-30.. Any thoughts? Thanks all jeff
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#3. Re: RTAB tool, wanted to borrow/rent in D.C. - from Garrett
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Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 08:23:18 -0700 (PDT) From: Garrett <garrettmcw@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: RTAB tool, wanted to borrow/rent in D.C. My RTAB's are shot, and I have a set of the Powerflexes but have been putting off installing them because of the nightmare factor. This tool sounds like the way to go. If anyone in the DC area can save me the purchase and trade a weekend with theirs for a case o' beer I'd appreciate it... Garrett
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#4. RE: [E36M3] Windows won't close! - from Chris Papademetrious
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Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 11:32:02 -0400 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispy@ieee.org> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Windows won't close! At 10:16 AM 4/22/2003 -0500, Go, Jeffrey wrote: >Funny...but not so funny.. >I have been seeing this on my 96 M3 for close to 2 years now.. > >I just figured its not worth the trouble of having someone open the door >panel and replace something.. >In my experience...once a tech replaces something, it doesn't go back to >acting like the original... > >I just mess with it from time to time to get it to close..it hasn't gotten >bad enough for me to have it fixed.. My 95 M3 has done this for a couple of years, on both sides. My mechanic says it's the motor weakening, and the fix is to replace the motor. Cha-ching! I was hoping to just lube a track or something. I'll just wait until it dies. - Chris
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#5. FS: 4 Brand New Kumho Ecsta V700 235/40WR17 Tires - from Wayne Miller
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Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 11:37:21 -0400 From: "Wayne Miller" <m3@waynemiller.com> Subject: FS: 4 Brand New Kumho Ecsta V700 235/40WR17 Tires Well it is finally time to clean out the basement of all of my E36 parts (and there are a lot of them) and the first to go will be track tires that I bought for the fateful Watkins Glen day last July. They didn't arrive in time before the event but they were waiting for me when I got back. My plan was to use them on my E46 but I upgraded my wheels and these wont fit anymore. The tires are 235/40/17 and are not shaved or heat cycled. They are brand new and still in the TireRack packaging. They are $536 + shipping from TireRack and I will sell them for $480 + shipping. Sure that isn't a big discount but $56 is still $56 and they are brand new so if you were planning on purchasing them anyway, here is a chance to save a little. -Wayne
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Windows won't close! - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 08:47:57 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Windows won't close! Chris Papademetrious at chrispy@ieee.org wrote: > My 95 M3 has done this for a couple of years, on both sides. My mechanic > says it's the motor weakening, and the fix is to replace the > motor. Cha-ching! I was hoping to just lube a track or something. I'll > just wait until it dies. I have some used motors from a 325is race car project. Make me an offer. I have a sunroof motor, too. - Mark -- mark@pdc-racing.net
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#7. RTA tool - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 10:56:08 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: RTA tool Folks, The time has come to swap the rear trailing arm bushings on my two E36s and I am now shopping for the best tool for the job. I'm open to either renting, buying or fabricating a tool. So I've identified the following alternatives: 1. BMW tool rental ($65 + 2x shipping) or purchase ($350) from KoalaMotorsports: http://www.koalamotorsport.com/images/tools/rear_subframe_set.jpg 2. VictoryProductDesign.com $78 RTA tool: http://www.victoryproductdesign.com/tools_main.htm 3. Technictool.com $249 RTA tool: http://www.technictool.com/Bmw%20trailing%20arm%20kit.htm http://www.technictool.com/bmw137-806%20instr..htm 4. jandsproducts.co.uk Euro 179 tool #AST4464: http://www.jandsproducts.co.uk/_jspdfs/drivetrain/21.pdf 5. ...there are probably dozens others out there... Most of these tools are nothing more than a threaded rod with a puller/pusher plates. A pretty simple concept unless I'm missing something. I'm initially inclined to go with the VictoryProductDesign solution unless you guys recommend otherwise. I would appreciate any tool reviews/recommendations and BTDT comments. I would prefer to work with a tool that will help to install the new _and_ remove the old bushings. No sense is hacking and drilling the old bushings out if they are still in one piece, as described on Tunnel's web site: http://www.tunnellracing.com/trailbush.html One last question, how do you install GC plastic reinforcement washers? Concave sides towards the bushing? TIA, alex f
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#8. Re: hard-wiring radar detector - from Robert Exconde
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Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 11:18:27 -0500 From: "Robert Exconde" <99e36m3@exconde.com> Subject: Re: hard-wiring radar detector I would recommend getting the Remote display and Remote volume control. As you drive with the V1 in traffic, people can see the arrows. If you get the remote audio adapter with the concealed display you can locate the display in a far enough location and use the Remote audio adapter to switch between the main unit and the concealed display. I plcaed the concealed display in the eyeglass holder below the aircon and the remote audio adapter near the parking brake, positioned so it doesnt get in the way, this way I can also with the palm of my hand hit mute. Or you could also buy Jim Powell's V1 in the mirror kit. Looks great, but I already have mine wired this way and dont feel like doing it again. I am however taking everything apart to install my two phone kits in to the M3. re
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#9. Re: Hard-wiring radar detector & more - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 12:18:17 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Hard-wiring radar detector & more on 4/22/03 9:56 AM, Scott M <smlists@pacbell.net> wrote: > I recently purchased a V1 radar detector. I want to hard wire it into my > '98 M3. Has anyone found a convenient way to do so? I could either tap > into an existing ign switched circuit or wire it to an unused switched fuse. > V1 has a nice kit that includes the wiring for such an install. I can run > the wire along the pass or drivers side and plan to mount the unit up high > near the rear view mirror. After not getting around to it for several years, I finally hard wired mine a few weeks ago. There are lots of different ways of doing it, and here's mine: - My V1 is high and to the left of the rear view mirror, and uses the windshield suction cup mount. If you stick it on slightly lower the flip down visor is usable, but the V1 is a bit obtrusive. Or you can mount it higher but it's in the way of the visor. Some people put it on the passenger side, but I don't care for that. You can also use the visor clip. Note that mine is an older V1 in the bigger case. - The map light panel has switched (with the ignition) 12V power available. Once you pop out the switch and light panels you'll see that power is distributed to these lights via an exposed printed circuit board. This makes it extremely easy to solder on the V1's power cord. Use a meter to locate ground and switched +12V traces. I hate those blue Scotch-Lok wire-taps and never use them. Of course you could also use the V1 hard wire kit, but why bother? - I sacrificed the V1's straight power cord, which is round in section and has a very durable rubber jacket. It's also a nice unobtrusive matte black. I used the normal lighter socket adapter and a meter to figure out which pair of the cord wires carry power. - After popping out the vanity lamp behind the visor I drilled a small hole in its surround and fed the cut end of the power cord through, then along to the switch panel recess. Then I stripped the wire ends and soldered them to the PCB traces, leaving plenty of cord slack just in case. - The cord comes out concealed behind the raised visor, with a minimally exposed loop to the V1's right side jack. Can't believe I didn't do this before! I've also toyed with installing the V1's remote display somewhere in the instrument cluster, but I haven't found a location that doesn't present either functional or installation difficulties. While I was in an electrical sort of a mood I installed a second cigar lighter socket so that my phone adapter doesn't have to be next to the gear shift and have a dangling coiled cord. I had the socket lying around, think it came from Radio Shack, or maybe an auto parts place. I figured out that there's enough backside clearance for it on the vertical rear surface of the centre console, down fairly low and toward the driver's side. (Note my car has no arm rest - may be different if yours does.) It's powered from the stock cigar lighter wiring, and so is always on. The phone lies in the centre cubby, and the cord flops almost invisibly out the back. This turns out to work very well indeed. Neil 96 M3
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#10. ***Welcome Turner Motorsport*** - from Sue Kraft
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Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 12:33:14 -0500 From: Sue Kraft <suekraft@new.rr.com> Subject: ***Welcome Turner Motorsport*** Hey everyone, I'd like to welcome our newest sponsor Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com And as our newest sponsor, you are all required to immediately call or visit their web site and buy something. Ha! Like you guys really need an excuse to buy a new bobble for your M3! Seriously, thanks Will for supporting our list. It is much appreciated. Suzy E36M3 list mistress