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#1. Re: Was Cats, not Warranty - from shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com
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Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 10:37:47 -0400 From: shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com Subject: Re: Was Cats, not Warranty <P>Warranty starts at the 'in service date', i.e. the date the car leaves the dealer in possesion of the purchases.</P><P>Shane K.</P><P> </P><P> </P><P>>Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 14:39:06 -0700<BR>>From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net><BR>>Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Cat shields buzzing</P><P>>8 years from date of manufacture, or purchase? I think mine was bought <BR>>in 5/95...<BR>>:)</P>.
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#2. Help - Car is Pulling - from Patrick Mallon
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Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 11:10:22 -0400 From: Patrick Mallon <pmallon@comcast.net> Subject: Help - Car is Pulling A short while ago I was lucky enough introduce the driver side tires on my 98 M3/2 to a sharp rock about the size of a softball. Shortly (very shortly) after the meeting I come to find that my drivers side tires (yes both) had been ripped open. I took the car to the shop (one I use often and trust) and had the tires replaced and I had the car aligned. The passenger side right rear control arm was also replaced due to some unexplained separate incident. After receiving the car back, I noticed a strong pull to the right that was not there before. The passenger side tires are obviously not as new as the drivers side, but they are fairly new - The front probably only has a few thousand on it and the rear a few more. I returned the car to the shop and they said that the alignment specs were off again (the car had hardly been driven, so I have no explanation for this), so they worked on them until they were near perfect. They also said we might have to swap the front tires if this didn't make things any better. You can probably guess from my long-winded post that it did not get better. I am planning on returning to have the tires swapped. If anyone has some suggestions or insight - it would be appreciated! Regards, Pat Mallon 98 M3/2
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#3. Re: street tires - from Garrett
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Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 08:15:17 -0700 (PDT) From: Garrett <garrettmcw@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: street tires I second the props to Toyo T1-S... man, I love that tire on this car. Comparatively, Pilot Sports feel squishy and dull. -Garrett
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#4. Re: M3 tire recommendations - from James Clay
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Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 11:34:44 -0400 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Re: M3 tire recommendations Everyone has opinions here and I know it adds clutter to the list, but I will toss mine into the ring. I put the new Yok ES100 tires on my car and I love them, 225/40 and 255/35-18. There is one set of turns on the way home from work (known as the "uphill esses" by all of our guys) that is a good benchmark. I can maintain 90 through them easily with the new tires. 80 with Kumho 712 was a full 4 wheel drift, 100 was seemingly similar with a well setup E36 on Toyo R compound. Beyond the speed, the tires are good in the rain (most important to me) and are on the less expensive side. James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance 540.639.9648
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#5. RE: [E36M3] Oh no. Another Tire Question - from Jason \(RaceBro\)
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Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 08:34:10 -0700 From: "Jason \(RaceBro\)" <racebro@santacruzbicycles.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Oh no. Another Tire Question Gruppe, I wanted the chance to clarify after Bobby chimed in on this topic as well. I too have driven on the D2's, and can say that classifying them as mediocre is very kind. However, Goodyear seems to have learned a lesson. The D3 is superior in every way. It's more like a Yoko AVS Sport in tread pattern, and hence there is a bit of noise, but after I wrote my first reply last week I had a chance to take them up our famous Hwy. 9 out of Santa Cruz and push them a bit. Turn in is precise and immediate, although there seems to bit a little more sidewall flex than I got with the S02's (I'm going to mess with pressures to see if that helps-- I'm running 35F/33R). Grip abounded, and even when I got the car to drift there were no suprises (and better yet, no squealing...). I have not had them on the track yet, so I reserve the right to amend my impressions after a track day, but all indicators are good so far... Jason Lombard Santa Cruz Bicycles, Inc. jason@santacruzbicycles.com (831)459-7560 x 30 http://www.santacruzbicycles.com --- -------------------- 8 -------------------- Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 16:53:40 -0400 From: Robert Chay <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Oh no. Another Tire Question I don't have experience with the GS-D3's but I had the GS-D2's. They were ok tires. Quiet and decent grip but went away fast during hard driving (auto-x). They are fairly quiet and good in the rain. I replaced them with Pilot Sports and these have better grip in dry and wet conditions. There are better choices out there unless you get a really good deal, I'd look for something else. -Bobby ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Klein" <klein@robinsonad.com> > > Please respond privately if you feel the need. > > I'm just curious if anyone has had any experience with the Eagle F1 > GS-D3's > on our cars? Or in general, for that matter. > > Danke, > Steve >
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Oh no. Another Tire Question - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 08:40:33 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Oh no. Another Tire Question I find it strange that tread patterns like the Pilot Sport, S02s, Goodyear D3s are similar. However, S03s are different and I hear the next Pilot Sports will be different...so maybe Goodyear is behind? Chester --- "Jason (RaceBro)" <racebro@santacruzbicycles.com> wrote: > Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 08:34:10 -0700 > From: "Jason \(RaceBro\)" <racebro@santacruzbicycles.com> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Oh no. Another Tire Question > > Gruppe, > > I wanted the chance to clarify after Bobby chimed in on this topic as well. > I too have driven on the D2's, and can say that classifying them as mediocre > is very kind. However, Goodyear seems to have learned a lesson. The D3 is > superior in every way. It's more like a Yoko AVS Sport in tread pattern, and > hence there is a bit of noise, but after I wrote my first reply last week I > had a chance to take them up our famous Hwy. 9 out of Santa Cruz and push > them a bit. Turn in is precise and immediate, although there seems to bit a > little more sidewall flex than I got with the S02's (I'm going to mess with > pressures to see if that helps-- I'm running 35F/33R). Grip abounded, and > even when I got the car to drift there were no suprises (and better yet, no > squealing...). I have not had them on the track yet, so I reserve the right > to amend my impressions after a track day, but all indicators are good so > far... =====
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#7. WOB - Type R - from Andrej Dolenc
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Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 11:54:33 -0400 From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> Subject: WOB - Type R This is complete WOB, but it had me in tears from laughing so hard! http://members.cox.net/marklein/rtype/toilet.shtml Andrej '97 M3
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#8. Re: Rear Suspension Bits 'n Pieces - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 11:01:45 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Rear Suspension Bits 'n Pieces on 4/24/03 12:15 AM, "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> wrote: > Sorry... "This" is my little 100k mile rear suspension "rebuild." OK, this makes sense. > To be honest, my original intention (about 15-20k miles ago) was to simply > replace the RTABs. My mechanic, however, suggested that with this many > miles, it's probably a good idea to replace ALL bushings in the rear of the > car... so as to only pay the labor once. OK, that *may* make sense, depending on how much and how hard the car has been hammered. That's a judgment call we can't make for your car. However one anecdote. A friend totalled his LTW last year at Mid Ohio when a brake rotor exploded. He's been rebuilding the car ever since, a total strip down and replace everything job. I believe the car had 40K miles or so, but many/most of them track miles. He tells me that almost every suspension or subframe to body mounting area shows sheetmetal cracks. Some may be due to the accident - 150+ feet traveled in the air, followed by a hard landing - but not all of them. So it doesn't hurt to be careful. The following are my opinions, and you know what they say about everyone having opinions... o RTABS - Replace at least every 60K miles. o Trailing arms - never replace unless damaged. They're cast steel and don't wear out, you'd also have to replace the rear wheel bearings which are carried in them, they have no other moving parts, and they cost over $400 each. Mechanic should be beaten over the head with one for even suggesting it. o Rear upper and lower control arms - replace only if visibly damaged or excess corrosion. The lower arm is quite flimsy, and many people replace them with sturdier aftermarket versions. o Upper and lower/inner and outer rear control arm bushings - Probably worth replacing if you're taking everything apart. I know people with many more miles than you who haven't needed to replace them. o Rear subframe bushings - replace if worn. However you need to drop the subframe to find that out, so might as well anyhow. o Differential mounting bushing - same criteria as rear subframe bushing. o Tie rods - replace only if excess play in ball joints. o Front control arms - replace only if ball joints show play. (Yes, I recall the news from Canada was different, but they don't seem to fail down here. Feel free to disagree.) o Front control arm bushings - replace if any cracked rubber. o Front strut bearing plates - replace if excess play or they don't turn freely or if visible cracks in rubber. o Front subframe - inspect for cracks, same for body where subframe attaches. o Motor mounts - If you take the front subframe off for inspection, might as well replace these. You'll have noticed the repeating chicken and egg aspect here. Once you take something like a rear subframe off far enough to check it, you may as well replace its bushings no matter what. Note that most/many bushings require special tools for R&R. And if you drop the diff and rear subframe, then what about the guibo, and...and...and ;) Neil 96 M3
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Oh no. Another Tire Question - from twisty M3
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Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 09:13:54 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Oh no. Another Tire Question And if anyone's curious, and knows French: http://www.michelin.fr/fr/auto/auto_produit_pilot_sport.jsp Jonathan L. >From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > >I find it strange that tread patterns like the Pilot Sport, S02s, Goodyear >D3s >are similar. However, S03s are different and I hear the next Pilot Sports >will >be different...so maybe Goodyear is behind? > >Chester > _________________________________________________________________ Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Re: Rear Suspension Bits 'n Pieces - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 09:14:02 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Rear Suspension Bits 'n Pieces --- Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> wrote: > o Rear upper and lower control arms - replace only if visibly > damaged or excess corrosion. The lower arm is quite flimsy, > and many people replace them with sturdier aftermarket > versions. > > o Upper and lower/inner and outer rear control arm bushings - > Probably worth replacing if you're taking everything apart. > I know people with many more miles than you who haven't > needed to replace them. These two items are related as a new lower control arm will come with the factory rubber bushing on one end (the other end mounts to the ball joint in the trailing arm... FWIW, Chester =====
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#11. Re: [E36M3] cat shields buzzing - from Greg Cagle
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Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 09:14:51 -0700 From: Greg Cagle <gregc@gregcagle.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] cat shields buzzing > -------------------- 10 -------------------- > Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 09:46:50 -0400 > From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> > Subject: Re[2]: [E36M3] Re: Cat shields buzzing > > Reid Conti writes: > > >>8 years from date of manufacture, or purchase? I think mine was bought >>in 5/95... >>:) > > > I believe warranties are always from the date of purchase. Somebody correct > me if I'm wrong. I *think* you are wrong - I remember researching this when I bought my 98 in November 2001. Turns out it had a build date of November 97 and the four-year original warranty ran out a week after I bought the car, according to the docs I found. -- Greg Cagle gregc at gregcagle dot com