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#1. Re: [E36M3] Subframe Bushing Replacement - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 11:13:10 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Subframe Bushing Replacement shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com at shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com wrote: > I need to replace the rear subframe bushings in the race car and was > wondering if anybody had done this job already and had done a write up. > Looking for any do's, don'ts, or special tools needed. Search of the > internet only turned up E30 stuff. You REALLY, REALLY want to weld in the M3 reinforcement plates while you're in there. You can see pics here: http://www.tcdesignfab.com/E36%20diff%20mount.htm - Mark -- mark@pdc-racing.net
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#2. Re: [E36M3] hard-wiring radar detector - from Robert Chay
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Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 14:18:37 -0400 From: Robert Chay <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] hard-wiring radar detector Did you try turning on the map light to see if it powered the radar detector? I have mine connected to the power lead to the sunroof motor and it comes on with the ignition and turns off when I shut the car off. -Bobby ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott M" <smlists@pacbell.net> > > OK - thanks for all the help on this guys. I ended up soldering the wires > directly to the map light pick-up which is switched 12V, but this does not > power up the unit. I'm getting +12V from my meter - not sure what is up. > The unit blinks then goes dark. I tried redoing the solder connection a > couple times and still nothing. Any ideas? > > Scott >
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#3. Sunroof motor - help - from Scott M
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Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 11:35:47 -0700 From: Scott M <smlists@pacbell.net> Subject: Sunroof motor - help OK - now I did it. In the process of installing power for my V1 I decided to remove the SR motor. THEN I read in the manual you are only supposed to remove it with the SR closed. Crap. Now it won't go back in. Any ideas how to get that motor re-installed properly??? Crap crap crap.... Scott
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#4. Re: HP in 1995 M3s - from Greg Cagle
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Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 11:36:28 -0700 From: Greg Cagle <gregc@gregcagle.com> Subject: Re: HP in 1995 M3s > Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 11:50:39 -0400 > From: "Michael Schaublin" <mike_schaublin@hotmail.com> > Subject: Re: HP in 1995 M3s > > Rich writes: > <There was also a VW turbo beetle there that managed 279 rwhp....> > > That's pretty good for a front wheel drive car to get 279 HP to the rear > wheels... ;>) Kind of depends on what YEAR Beetle we're talking about, doesn't it? 8^) -- Greg Cagle gregc at gregcagle dot com
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#5. Re: Sunroof question (and things I have to hit to work) - from Jonathan Evans
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Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 14:46:35 -0400 From: "Jonathan Evans" <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Sunroof question (and things I have to hit to work) Welcome to my world! The loose sunroof panel is how I gauge my = acceleration and deceleration. When it moves, I must have just pulled = some serious G's! I tried to take it apart once, and got stuck on the Torx bolts. I just = live with it now. WARNING: Do not attempt to open (to the fully extended position, not = tilt) the sunroof with the panel slid back. You will require a new = sunroof if that happens. It is only slightly annoying after a while. If you find a part that can = be individually replaced, I will attack it again. BMW claims to sell = only the entire cartridge. The sunroof has joined the list of features on my '95 that I regularly = have to hit in order to work: Fuel gauge - bang on top of dash once for a 3 second reading of current = fuel level (strange that the low fuel light still works normally) Sunroof - smack with fist to open or close Right Headlight - hit with palm of hand to turn on after hitting a bump = (fixed by putting in ellipsoids - love them) -Jonathan '95 M3
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#6. fuel starvation - AGAIN?! - from RFKoby@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 14:51:07 -0400 From: RFKoby@aol.com Subject: fuel starvation - AGAIN?! here we go again. yes, there is a definite tank change from 95 to 96 model cars. there is also some very subtle difference in the fuel pump, return lines, and transfer line. for those that know me, my 1995 M3, 9/1994 production, will run all the way down to the reserve light. I am driving the car HARD, and can turn laps faster than most others....... so it has nothing to do with how fast you are driving. I believe the difference comes from the actual fuel pump and the volume that it is delivering. but more so, what is important is the volume and pressure of the return fuel back to the tank. The return fuel line goes into the left side of the tank and is used to generate a "jet-pump-venturi" that is used to transfer the fuel back to the right side. the jet-pump-venturi is much like the old style jet-pumps that were used on wells deeper than 30 feet when the pumps were located outside the wells. if the fuel jet in the venturi is manufactured off by a few thousands, the resulting pump action is greatly reduced.... I haven't yet proved this, but this is how the "intended" system works, and this is the only explanation I have for the difference between car of the same year, make, model. bob 9/94 M3 turning fast laps, running on empty >-------------------- 1 -------------------- >Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 10:29:59 -0500 >From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> >Subject: Fuel Starvation > >I finally got fed up with the fuel starvation problem during track use >that's known to many of us, and ordered the Stage II kit that Bimmerworld >sells. > >Talking to James Clay (who certainly knows about such things) on the phone I >learned something that I never knew before: BMW made a design change to the >fuel tank that apparently makes later E36 models more susceptible to this >problem. > >Sure enough, when I went and looked it up in the ETK, I found that E36 cars >up to model year 95 have a 62 litre tank. Then starting in 96 the tank >became 65 litres. > >Don't ask me why BMW made this change. If I had to guess it would be that >they wanted to keep the same tank range with the higher fuel consumption of >the bigger 2.8 engine also introduced then. Or maybe BMW stands for Bavarian >Mystery World? > >In any case it seems that the fuel starvation problem is more pronounced in >the later cars. I'm leaving on vacation late this week so won't install the >kit until I get back, but with an additional fuel pump in the other tank >half it's obviously going to take care of the problem. > >However for those who prefer to source all the individual pieces and parts >themselves, don't forget Andrew Kalman's exceptionally well produced how-to >instructions. I'm not sure where you can download the pdf. It's not on >Suzy's m-power site, but surely deserves to be. I have it if anybody wants a >copy. > >Neil >96 M3
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#7. Car pulls under braking - from AVUSM3@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 14:55:27 EDT From: AVUSM3@aol.com Subject: Car pulls under braking Mel - So far I have just decided to live with it. As long as you are aware of it it's not a big deal, although certainly not ideal! I like the idea of a bias valve for the right rear. This would be more value for a '95 than for the later cars since the '95 has 3 channel ABS vs. 4 channel in the later cars. Regards, John Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 08:27:13 -0500 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Car pulls under braking Have you that track your cars considered using a brake bias valve on that right real line? Reducing the effective pressure to the right rear caliper should increase the effective pressure to the other calipers. Assuming of course that this is just a "characteristic" of the cars and not a mechanical problem. Mel
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#8. Re: Sunroof question - from Ward, Chris
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Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 15:25:43 -0400 From: "Ward, Chris" <CWard@ContractLumber.com> Subject: Re: Sunroof question Rob, I just fixed this on mine. I wish I would have done a write up or taken pictures, but I didn't:-(. It would take too long to describe what you need to do, but if you drop me an e-mail, I will give you my phone number. Chris Ward 95 M3 Dakar Yellow >>Has anyone figured out how the interior sunroof liner works? Mine has become detached and >>does the following: >>1. When the roof is closed, the liner slides freely by itelf. Heavy acceleration or decel. >>causes it to slide back and forth. 2. When the roof is closed and is then opened to the >>"tilt" position, the liner does not slide back the 4-5" that is used to automatically. It >>behaves the same as in #1 above. 3. When the roof is in the opened, tilted position, the >>liner does not slide forward when the roof is closed. >>In other words...everything that it should do, it doesn't! I'm getting ready to take the >>sunroof panel out to try to find the cause, but thought I'd query the list once again. >>Thanks for any tips! >>Rob
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#9. Battery vent tube - from Wen Liew
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Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 12:22:10 -0700 From: "Wen Liew" <wwliew@hotmail.com> Subject: Battery vent tube After being away for 2 weeks, my 96 107k car failed to start. A quick check with PepBoys revealed that the battery can't hold its full charge. So, I replaced it with a Sears Diehard. What is the function of the battery vent tube? If my guess of it venting battery fluids during evaporation at different temperatures is true, then the tube needs to fit into the vent hole to dispose of the fluids. Can anyone confirm this? Thanks. Wen _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail
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#10. Re: Hard-wiring radar detector - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 14:23:00 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Hard-wiring radar detector on 4/29/03 1:18 PM, Scott M <smlists@pacbell.net> wrote: > OK - thanks for all the help on this guys. I ended up soldering the wires > directly to the map light pick-up which is switched 12V, but this does not > power up the unit. I'm getting +12V from my meter - not sure what is up. > The unit blinks then goes dark. I tried redoing the solder connection a > couple times and still nothing. Any ideas? Virtually all the BMW accessories, including the map light, work by supplying +12V (controlled or not by the ignition switch) directly to the load. The on/off switch is on the ground side. So the circuit goes: o +12V to first bulb terminal o Bulb terminal one to bulb terminal two via filament o Second bulb terminal to switch o Switch to ground. With the lamp switch off, but accessory power on, a meter will read +12V at *either* bulb terminal. A good meter has very high resistance, and draws so little current that the voltage drop due to the filament resistance is unmeasurable. So you can't tell which side is which without a visual check. If your V1 has its positive feed connected to the *second* bulb terminal, then the filament will serve as a series dropping resistor, reducing voltage to the point where the V1 won't work, even though the meter says you are connected to +12V. Solution: Check your circuit, and make your connection to the correct side of the bulb. One way to ID this is to follow the PCB trace back to where it should be fed by a violet/white wire. See Bentley page E-217. Or, it could be something else... Neil 96 M3
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#11. Re: camber plates -- lost previous email - from KLchmn@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 15:24:05 -0400 From: KLchmn@aol.com Subject: Re: camber plates -- lost previous email Gruppe, I misplaced the email from the person stating that they can or will make fixed camber plates that give 2.5 deg or more of negative camber. Please contact me as you may have a ton of these to make if a recent club racing rules clarification sticks...<sigh> Cheers, Kirk Lachman Sin City Chapter '95 M3 #21 I-stock