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#1. Re: [E36M3] Victory RTAB Tool - from Garrett
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Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 07:53:16 -0700 (PDT) From: Garrett <garrettmcw@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Victory RTAB Tool Yup, pre-96 bushings have a flange that needs to be cut off. The metal is soft and it's not too difficult if you have a sawzall, would be more of a PITA with a hacksaw because of the limited space. The new bushings don't have the flange. -Garrett -------------------- 6 -------------------- Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 20:52:52 -0700 From: "Lew Becker" <lmbeckercfls@earthlink.net> Subject: Victory RTAB Tool I received Victory Tools' RTAB Tool today. The instructions for removing 96+ bushings state it is necessary to bend or cut off a metal tab on the bushing to use the tool.
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Victory RTAB Tool - from DocWyte
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Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 08:02:47 -0700 (PDT) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Victory RTAB Tool No, the '96+ bushings have the flange. I just ordered a set and they have them. -josh --- Garrett <garrettmcw@yahoo.com> wrote: > Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 07:53:16 -0700 (PDT) > From: Garrett <garrettmcw@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Victory RTAB Tool > > Yup, pre-96 bushings have a flange that needs to be > cut off. The metal is soft and it's not too > difficult > if you have a sawzall, would be more of a PITA with > a > hacksaw because of the limited space. The new > bushings don't have the flange. > > -Garrett > > > > -------------------- 6 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 20:52:52 -0700 > From: "Lew Becker" <lmbeckercfls@earthlink.net> > Subject: Victory RTAB Tool > > > > I received Victory Tools' RTAB Tool today. The > instructions for > removing 96+ bushings state it is necessary to bend > or > cut off a metal > tab on the bushing to use the tool. > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > ===== __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo. http://search.yahoo.com
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Victory RTAB Tool - from Garrett
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Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 08:05:01 -0700 (PDT) From: Garrett <garrettmcw@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Victory RTAB Tool Sorry, that was the word from Victory when I called to ask them about it. I installed the Powerflex bushings so haven't actually seen the 96+ bushings myself. My apologies for the misinformation. -Garrett --- DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> wrote: > No, the '96+ bushings have the flange. I just > ordered > a set and they have them. > > -josh > > > --- Garrett <garrettmcw@yahoo.com> wrote: > > Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 07:53:16 -0700 (PDT) > > From: Garrett <garrettmcw@yahoo.com> > > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Victory RTAB Tool > > > > Yup, pre-96 bushings have a flange that needs to > be > > cut off. The metal is soft and it's not too > > difficult > > if you have a sawzall, would be more of a PITA > with > > a > > hacksaw because of the limited space. The new > > bushings don't have the flange. > > > > -Garrett > > > > > > > > -------------------- 6 -------------------- > > Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 20:52:52 -0700 > > From: "Lew Becker" <lmbeckercfls@earthlink.net> > > Subject: Victory RTAB Tool > > > > > > > > I received Victory Tools' RTAB Tool today. The > > instructions for > > removing 96+ bushings state it is necessary to > bend > > or > > cut off a metal > > tab on the bushing to use the tool. > > > > > > ************************************************* > > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > > sponsors: > > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > > ************************************************* > > > > > > > ===== > > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo. > http://search.yahoo.com
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#4. Re: camber plates - from RFKoby@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 11:05:25 -0400 From: RFKoby@aol.com Subject: Re: camber plates Kirk [and others on list(s)] yes, I am the guy you are looking for. I have the designs for fixed camber plates with 3 settings: version 1 = -0.5, -1.0, -1.5 version 2 = -0.75, -1.5, -2.25 with a lowered car with -1.5 to - 1.75 degrees camber, version 2 at the highest setting will give -3.75 to -4.00 degress camber. the 2 current designs I have work for with 1995 M3 strut bearing. If I read the rules (and changes) correctly, you have to use the stock strut bearing of the same production year. I am now working on camber plates to work on the 96+ cars since they cannot swap the strut bearings from side to side. I am working on getting several sets made. I will let you know as soon as they are done. Cost will be $100 to $120 per set with hardware. bob In a message dated 4/29/2003 6:58:58 PM Eastern Standard Time, KLchmn writes: >Bob, > >A recent rules clarification in CCA Club Racing has outlawed the swapping of >strut hats in stock class. > >However, we are allowed fixed camber plates. I understand that you >manufacture these. Is this correct? If so, how much for a set and do I get >a choice of how much camber to dial in? > >BTW: I saw your post regarding fuel pump starvation. My 4/95 M3 starves on >right handers at about 1/2 to 3/8 tank, depending on the severity of the >turn. Other than the dual pump solution, is there anything that can be >(simply) done to fix the problem? > >Cheers, > >Kirk Lachman >Sin City Chapter >'95 M3 #21 I-stock >
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Victory RTAB Tool - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 08:07:41 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Victory RTAB Tool Wha? The new bushings should definitely have a flange unless you're using the '95 bushings in which case, you've downgraded... Chester --- Garrett <garrettmcw@yahoo.com> wrote: > hacksaw because of the limited space. The new > bushings don't have the flange. =====
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#6. RE: 911 as farm machinery - from Mel Silva
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Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 10:12:29 -0500 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: 911 as farm machinery To quote Homer (of Simpson's fame, not the Iliad or anything that highbrow) D'oh! You'd be surprised how often I do that (getting my left and right mixed up). My mom says it's my father's Portuguese blood that makes me do things like that (no, the OTHER right, stupid). When I was a kid, my mom wrote with magic marker a big "L" and a big "R" on the soles of my shoes and it STILL didn't help. :P Now you know why I never ask for directions! Mel -----Original Message----- From: Dorffer, Rich [mailto:RDORFFER@CleIndians.com] Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2003 8:21 AM To: E36M3 Cc: melsilva@mindspring.com Subject: 911 as farm machinery Mel says > > As far as the pedal thing, I felt the pedals awkward not because of their > mounting points, but that they were shifted to the left from center to > accommodate the left front wheel arch. Mel, Check those markings on your shoes again, the L should be on the left side and the R on the right side, did you possibly put your shoes on the wrong feet? If you hold your hands out in front of you and make an L with your index finger and thumb, the proper looking L is your left and the backwards one is your right. I am here to help. Regards, Rich - picking on Mel for a simple mistake, will surely get it back in spades...
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Re: Hard-wiring radar detector - from Scott M
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Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 08:40:36 -0700 From: Scott M <smlists@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Hard-wiring radar detector Hmmm. Operation is intermittent - twice so far the unit has not powered up, but when I cycle the key to off and back on again it comes on. I wonder if that wasn't the best ground. Maybe I should try for another one.... Scott on 4/29/03 11:08 PM, Scott M at smlists@pacbell.net wrote: > Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 23:06:21 -0700 > From: Scott M <smlists@pacbell.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Hard-wiring radar detector > > I found my problem - first I had the wires in the RJ-11 phone cord > backwards. I connected those directly to power in the car. Second problem > was the ground on my mirror light is switched - only gives a gnd when the > visor is down and mirror open. So I moved the ground wire to a ground I > found on the map light panel pcb - the trace just left of center towards the > back. Seems to work fine now. > > Scott > > on 4/29/03 5:38 PM, Bob Vaughn at Bob_Vaughn@Telestream.net wrote: > >> Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 17:25:51 -0700 >> From: Bob Vaughn <Bob_Vaughn@Telestream.net> >> Subject: Re: Hard-wiring radar detector >> >> You also might try starting the car up to see if the voltage >> increases enough to power the unit up. >> >> -- Bob >> >> >> ************************************************* >> Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: >> Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com >> Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >> BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com >> Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >> Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >> >> DIGEST INFORMATION: >> http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >> ************************************************* >> > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* >
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#8.diagnosing bad strut bearings - from marc@plante.com
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Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 12:51:07 -0700 (PDT) From: marc@plante.com Subject: <E36>diagnosing bad strut bearings I'm running an E36 with Koni SAs and H&R OE Sport springs, and I have a set of 1997 M3 perches at the top of those struts. What is the approximate life expectancy (20k mi/yr +10 track days), and how can I diagnose early phases of failure? In my rabbit way back when it was easy to see the rubber separating at the top of the bearing when they failed (after 10k). I've got a clunk in the right front when taking right hand 90 degree cornres over bumps (turn in to work every morning) at low speeds and thinking it's the bearing going. Any diagnostics short of tearing down the strut? Marc Plante E36 325i, 212k Vienna, VA Marc Plante marc@plante.com
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#9.diagnosing bad strut bearings - from marc@plante.com
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Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 12:51:10 -0700 (PDT) From: marc@plante.com Subject: <E36>diagnosing bad strut bearings I'm running an E36 with Koni SAs and H&R OE Sport springs, and I have a set of 1997 M3 perches at the top of those struts. What is the approximate life expectancy (20k mi/yr +10 track days), and how can I diagnose early phases of failure? In my rabbit way back when it was easy to see the rubber separating at the top of the bearing when they failed (after 10k). I've got a clunk in the right front when taking right hand 90 degree cornres over bumps (turn in to work every morning) at low speeds and thinking it's the bearing going. Any diagnostics short of tearing down the strut? Marc Plante E36 325i, 212k Vienna, VA Marc Plante marc@plante.com
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#10. Three Month Report - from Nancy Fluharty
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Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 19:37:48 -0400 From: "Nancy Fluharty" <fluhar@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Three Month Report As I approach the 3-month point of my M3 ownership, I've been ruminating, philosophizing, and comparing it to my trusty E30. The following observations were assembled mainly for my own benefit, but comments are welcome: 1. I love this engine. I can overlook a lot because of the responsiveness and power of the engine. 2. Likewise the appearance of the car. I've always liked the shape of the E36 coupes, but I particularly like this one (white, no spoiler, Contour wheels). I still grin when I see it in the parking lot. 3. The condition of the car when I bought it wasn't quite as good as I thought. A few things wrong and a few wear items at end-of-life. I had a bad wheel bearing, trouble with the HVAC (see #10), leaking power-steering fluid (replacing crimp-clamps with screw-clamps seems to have fixed). The brakes were shot and the suspension's nearly so. Water pump's been updated but the radiator/t-stat housing/hoses/belts project lies ahead. 4. Some idiosyncrasies have taken some getting used to: The lower seating position, with the key ring resting on my right knee. (I may adjust, but so far I give the edge in comfort to the E30, at least for the tall and skinny). The big chunk of plastic between the front seats which still doesn't provide a decent place for your cup or cellphone (but it helps if you discard the ash tray insert). The windshield washer which wets your left knee if you use it with the windows open. And, of course, the fact that all parts have the M-surcharge. 5. Tramlining in the expressway ruts is worse than any other car I've driven, which I take to be a function of the width and profile of the tires. Everybody get this? 6. Is everything going to be difficult on this car? First I had to alter my floor jack to get it under the car. When I did the brakes, all the rotors were seized to the hubs, and then I became a (temporary) member of the Soft-Pedal Club. (Repeated bleedings alternating with ABS braking were the answer in my case.) The front caliper frame bolts were monsters. The wiper arms were seized to the stems! These all yielded eventually to PB Blaster, time, and impact, but I started to wonder if anything was going to go smoothly. (Something did: when I did the wheel bearing, the old hub slid off nice and easy.) 7. My gas mileage has been surprisingly good. My commute is a fairly easy 15 miles (live in the city, work in the 'burbs - best way to commute!), but still I'm pleased to be getting 24-25 mpg, about the same as my E30 (but with premium gas). But I've been babying it somewhat as I get comfortable with it, so this may not last. 8. Suspension - besides the usual shocks, struts, RSM's, RTAB's, etc. needing done soon, I've got a bunch of bad rubber boots in the front end (both CA outer ball joint boots, swaybar link boots) The pieces themselves are still OK, but clearly will not last with bad boots. Is this a common occurrence? Is there any point in replacing boots only? 9. First track event is May 15 (Thursday nights at Putnam Park - anyone else?) Need to go easy until I've done the suspension work. 10. The HVAC problem was a jam in the mechanism controlling air flow - would not go into the defrost position (up). I pulled the glove box and lubricated the linkage. I decided that having gone that far I should change the microfilter (There's a fun job! Used combination of Bentley's and Brett's suggestions. Not so hard, just ugly.) Those things together helped significantly, but did not cure the problem. It now operates but with a sticky point as it passes due north. Later I discovered that there's an upgraded part which may help - the "cam" which operates the flaps. I'll keep that in mind in case of recurrence. My experience driving M3's is limited to this car, so I'd be interested to hear if anything I've mentioned seems outside normal limits. Listers, you have been incredibly valuable. When I have asked for help or info, the responses have been quick and useful. I've also done some browsing in the archives to build a body of knowledge. The day may come when I can actually contribute answers instead of questions. Bob Fluharty 95 M3 87 325is Cincinnati