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#1. Re: [E36M3] fuel pick up problems - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Mon, 05 May 2003 07:00:00 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] fuel pick up problems >Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 09:42:52 EDT >From: Paragonloan@aol.com >Subject: fuel pick up problems > > >I have a 97 M3 that sees alot of track time here in Florida. the proble I am >having is if I run less than half a tank of gas the car falls on it is face >after the corners. does anyone else have this problem. the only fix I can >think of is to baffle the fuel tank. > >Brian Jacobs >Everglades CCA Please read http://www.pumpkininc.com/content/doc/guide/ag-8.pdf -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#2. Re: [E36M3] ZKW Euro glass part# ? - from Jim El Nabli
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Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 07:08:28 -0400 (EDT) From: Jim El Nabli <nabli@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] ZKW Euro glass part# ? 63 12 8 363 507 Cheers, Jim E. -------Original Message------- From: John B <john0990@yahoo.com> Sent: 05/05/03 09:47 AM To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Subject: [E36M3] ZKW Euro glass part# ? > > Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 06:38:30 -0700 (PDT) From: John B <john0990@yahoo.com> Subject: ZKW Euro glass part# ? Searching through the archives, I found the part# for the passenger side ZKW Euro headlight glass, but couldn't find the driver's side. Does anyone have it, and can you also confirm the passenger side part# I found? Passenger: 63 12 8 363 508 Driver: ? Many TIA, again . . . John '95 M3 __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo. <a target=_blank href="http://search.yahoo.com">http://search.yahoo.com</a> ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport <a target=_blank href="http://www.taylorautosport.com">http://www.taylorautosport.com</a> Rogue Engineering <a target=_blank href="http://www.rogueengineering.com">http://www.rogueengineering.com</a> BMW M3 Specialties <a target=_blank href="http://www.jt-designs.com">http://www.jt-designs.com</a> Bimmerworld <a target=_blank href="http://www.bimmerworld.com">http://www.bimmerworld.com</a> Turner Motorsport <a target=_blank href="http://www.turnermotorsport.com">http://www.turnermotorsport.com</a> DIGEST INFORMATION: <a target=_blank href="http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm">http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm</a> ************************************************* >
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#3. used brake lines - from Michael, Dave
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Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 08:12:35 -0600 From: "Michael, Dave" <Dave_Michael@maxtor.com> Subject: used brake lines Folks, Anyone have a set of used, unwanted brake hoses lying around waiting to be thrown out? I want to get a set of SS lines custom made, and they said the best way to get exactly the right fit is send in the old lines. That, for obvious reasons, has its limitations.....I can return them if needed. I am going to see if I can get braided lines with protective sleeves and correct furrals MADE, since no-one seems to sell them. Thanks! Dave
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#4. Re: [E36M3] fuel pick up problems - from e36m3digest@jedinite.com
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Date: Mon, 05 May 2003 09:16:09 -0500 From: "e36m3digest@jedinite.com" <e36m3digest@jedinite.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] fuel pick up problems Check out the fuel starvation kits from list sponsor Bimmerworld: http://www.nexternal.com/bimmerworl/?Target=products.asp&RowID=39 You'll have no problems with fuel starvation ever again... Eric M. Foster Performify.com Paragonloan@aol.com wrote: > Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 09:42:52 EDT > From: Paragonloan@aol.com > Subject: fuel pick up problems > > > I have a 97 M3 that sees alot of track time here in Florida. the proble I am > having is if I run less than half a tank of gas the car falls on it is face > after the corners. does anyone else have this problem. the only fix I can > think of is to baffle the fuel tank. > > Brian Jacobs > Everglades CCA >
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#5. E30 M3 versus E36 - compare/contrast - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Mon, 05 May 2003 10:58:14 -0400 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: E30 M3 versus E36 - compare/contrast Or, you could compromise...buy an E30 shell, drop in an M50 2.5L or S50 3.0L engine. Zionsville has the instructions to do the swap: http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/ Look for the Project Orca product. I've seen E30-M50s on the track, and they're fast. With a Conforti chip, intake, and cams, you could get the M50 up to 235HP. A stripped E30 shell and M50 engine will weigh 2300-2400 lbs. A power to weight ratio of ~10 is good (a stock '95 M3 is 3175/240 or 13.22 lb/hp). Ron Buchalski BMWCCA #76387 1995 E36 M3 1993 E34 525iT 1999 Mazda Miata >Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 04:46:14 -0700 >From: "Tim Ng" <s14realm3@peachtreebmwcca.org> >Subject: E30 vs E36 M3 > >Date: Thu, 01 May 2003 09:49:59 -0700 >From: jon@maximumpc.com (Jon Phillips) >Subject: E30 M3 versus E36 - compare/contrast > >Hi Jon: some of you know me well enough to know that I am a BIG E30 M3 >lover. I am an original owner of my 91 M3 and tracked that car since 1992 >till 2000 then retired that car back to street use and build a 88 M3 IP >track car. Yes E30 M3s are expenive to own due to manitence. I am on my >second engine now. I love my S14s AND I love my S50 also. They are really >NOT the same cars. I don't like to compare the 2 b/c they are so different >animals. >All I can tell you IF you are thinking about doing the E30 M3 is that you >really need to get out to the track and get rides in as many as you can. >Talk to the owners and ask them their likes and dislikes. Most of the M3s >of any style used on the track are not stock anymore so you can get a feel >of what different suspension and shocks work and feel like. The cost of the >S14 verse is S50/52 is higher, BUT I also never heard of any S14 drivers >mis-shifting. Others have given some very excellent reasons for and against >the S14 and the S/M 50. Currently, I know of more guys doing the JP e36 >325i cars then E30 m3s. Its more economical to run a 325i. _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus
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#6. RE: [E36M3] E30 M3 versus E36 - compare/contrast - from Robert Puertas
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Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 08:23:39 -0700 From: "Robert Puertas" <Puertas@cox.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] E30 M3 versus E36 - compare/contrast Please don't hack up an e30 M3. I don't care if it's faster or better or whatever, it's just wrong. Can anyone speak to the merits of doing this swap to the 318ti vs. the e30 chassis? Robert -----Original Message----- From: Ron Buchalski [mailto:rbuchals@hotmail.com] Sent: Monday, May 05, 2003 8:07 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] E30 M3 versus E36 - compare/contrast Date: Mon, 05 May 2003 10:58:14 -0400 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: E30 M3 versus E36 - compare/contrast Or, you could compromise...buy an E30 shell, drop in an M50 2.5L or S50 3.0L engine. Zionsville has the instructions to do the swap: http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/ Look for the Project Orca product. I've seen E30-M50s on the track, and they're fast. With a Conforti chip, intake, and cams, you could get the M50 up to 235HP. A stripped E30 shell and M50 engine will weigh 2300-2400 lbs. A power to weight ratio of ~10 is good (a stock '95 M3 is 3175/240 or 13.22 lb/hp). Ron Buchalski BMWCCA #76387 1995 E36 M3 1993 E34 525iT 1999 Mazda Miata >Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 04:46:14 -0700 >From: "Tim Ng" <s14realm3@peachtreebmwcca.org> >Subject: E30 vs E36 M3 > >Date: Thu, 01 May 2003 09:49:59 -0700 >From: jon@maximumpc.com (Jon Phillips) >Subject: E30 M3 versus E36 - compare/contrast > >Hi Jon: some of you know me well enough to know that I am a BIG E30 M3 >lover. I am an original owner of my 91 M3 and tracked that car since >1992 till 2000 then retired that car back to street use and build a 88 >M3 IP track car. Yes E30 M3s are expenive to own due to manitence. I am >on my second engine now. I love my S14s AND I love my S50 also. They >are really NOT the same cars. I don't like to compare the 2 b/c they >are so different animals. All I can tell you IF you are thinking about >doing the E30 M3 is that you really need to get out to the track and >get rides in as many as you can. Talk to the owners and ask them their >likes and dislikes. Most of the M3s of any style used on the track are >not stock anymore so you can get a feel of what different suspension >and shocks work and feel like. The cost of the S14 verse is S50/52 is >higher, BUT I also never heard of any S14 drivers mis-shifting. Others >have given some very excellent reasons for and against the S14 and the >S/M 50. Currently, I know of more guys doing the JP e36 325i cars then >E30 m3s. Its more economical to run a 325i. _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Where to get Euro ellipsoid headlights? - from Alan Leung
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Date: Mon, 05 May 2003 10:37:39 -0500 From: "Alan Leung" <alanleung100@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Where to get Euro ellipsoid headlights? <html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>There seems to be some conflicting information in the replies so I figure I'd better make sure now ... if I plan on running 100W low beams in the euro headlights do I need special high-temp wiring besides a 10amp fuse? Thanks again for your input.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Alan</DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Add photos to your messages with <a href="http://g.msn.com/8HMPENUS/2749">MSN 8. </a> Get 2 months FREE*.</html>
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#8. Euro Oil Cooler - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 11:42:35 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Euro Oil Cooler I decide to jump right in this weekend installing the euro oil cooler (housing, cooler, hoses and all the ancillary fittings) to my M3. So, unlike my normal method, I didn't do any research or investigation ahead of time to see how easy or difficult this would be. I quickly found out two things: - The euro oil filter housing is different in that there are two sender ports M12 x 1.5 (oil pressure and oil temperature) and no VANOS connection port while the US oil filter housing has one sender port M12 x 1.5 (oil pressure) and the VANOS connection port (M14 x 1.5 I believe). This appears to be easily remedied by simply tapping the euro filter housing for the VANOS connection. Correct me if I am wrong. - The ancillary pieces I purchased were as follows: 17 51 2 243 659 1 holder - plastic bracket with an unthreaded brass insert 17 22 2 227 282 1 euro holder - metal bracket with two holes one is threaded for M6 it looks more Euro than the plastic bracket 17 20 1 712 209 4 plastic snap together brackets with holes in them 17 22 2 227 340 1 bolt - an M6 x 30mm bolt 11 65 2 243 770 1 bolt - an M6 x 20mm bolt 17 22 1 712 349 1 spacer - flared unthreaded bushing To me, these pieces seem useless. I can't tell how they would be used to hold the oil cooler in place at all, at least not on the US car. I can see how I can fabricate my own metal brakets which would insert in the plastic brackets on the under side and hold the oil cooler in place. Has anyone else done this or are there brackets already fabricated out there? Also, where exactly do these two pieces go: 17 21 2 227 344 1 air duct 07 11 9 900 409 3 screw Also, I used to recall a write-up by Stephen Lafredo on the Internet somewhere but I couldn't find it. Anyone have it archived or bookmarked? Thanks in advance. Regards, Rich PS - Thanks to John Pease for selling me the stuff for a very nice price. His packaging for shipping was way over the top. UPS or FedEx wouldn't have been able to damage the contents short of driving over the box with a truck.
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Where to get Euro ellipsoid headlights? - from Carey Probst
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Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 12:16:27 -0400 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Where to get Euro ellipsoid headlights? Highly recommended using the high temp adapters. Without them you will probably bake and crack the regular wiring from the heat. I have the adapter wires in my M3 with no problems. In my Cherokee with euro lights and no high temp wiring I replace the lighting plugs about every 2 years as the melt. Carey -----Original Message----- From: Alan Leung [mailto:alanleung100@hotmail.com] Sent: Monday, May 05, 2003 11:48 AM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] Where to get Euro ellipsoid headlights? Date: Mon, 05 May 2003 10:37:39 -0500 From: "Alan Leung" Subject: RE: [E36M3] Where to get Euro ellipsoid headlights? There seems to be some conflicting information in the replies so I figure I'd better make sure now ... if I plan on running 100W low beams in the euro headlights do I need special high-temp wiring besides a 10amp fuse? Thanks again for your input. Alan ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- -- Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Engine light/smog check - help! - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 11:24:02 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Engine light/smog check - help! Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> wrote: > > Replacing a knock sensor is a bitch. Amen to that. I did exactly the job that David has ahead of him last fall. Absolutely requires at least three hands and tons of patience. IIRC the shop rate for this is in the 6-8 hour range. > Also, knock sensors are not likely to go bad. I don't know about that. I know two other people who had theirs replaced (both OBD-II M3s). Both local independents cringed and quoted labor estimates from memory. It must have been recent. > What has been known to happen is the connector interface corrodes... > so maybe a cleaning with an electrical contact solution? It's impossible to access the rear (cyl 4-6) knock sensor or it's connector without removing the intake manifold. Once you do remove the manifold, I would not chance putting it back on (the real PITA) just to test if the contact cleaner theory works. The sensor is moderately priced ($50-100), so I would just drop it in. Then sell the old one on eBay as rare original part hand molded by Bavarian virgins... alex f --- david tow <david_tow@hotmail.com> wrote: > My 95 M3 has gone over 90k miles and got a few issues for me to deal with. > Firstly a smog check is due soon. Secondly the "check engine" light comes > on and now stays on. Thirdly, thanks to Jim Bassett who helped me checked > the fault code sometime ago, and he found out that the engine knock sensor > for #4, 5 and 6 was not good. But the "check engine" light was only > occasionally blinking then. Now it stays there. > > My questions are: Would this be caused by more than a knock sensor? Oxygen > sensor too? Would I pass the smog without fixing this? Should I give it a > try? How much does it cost to have both of these parts replaced, parts and > labor? I suspect this is not an early Motronic system (1.3 or earlier) > where you could check number of flashes with the key in the ON position to > determine what's wrong with the car...