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#1. Tuesday, May 13th test day - from James Clay
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Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 17:26:48 -0400 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Tuesday, May 13th test day Is anyone interested in an open test day on May 13th? Possible locations are VIR South Course or Roebling Road. Please email me if interested, cost depends on total number, Roebling is about $2,500, VIR is $3,500, up to 10 cars. I can provide scales and some setup work to a limited extent. Please email soon if you have any interest. James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance 540.639.9648
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#2. BeaveRun Private Track Day 5/13/03 - from Vern Anderson
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Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 18:03:58 -0400 From: "Vern Anderson" <vernon_anderson@yahoo.com> Subject: BeaveRun Private Track Day 5/13/03 Hello everyone, I wanted to let everyone know that there is a private track day scheduled at BeaveRun Motorsports Complex on Tuesday May 13th. It is being run in conjunction with a local Ferrari Club. The organizer of our group, Jan McCoy, has been running track days for years at Nelson and now BeaveRun. His track days are fun, low-key, safe and have tons of track time. Several experienced drivers will be there to instruct anyone if needed. Jan's track days also include an ambulance and insurance. The cost is $150 for the day. Please contact me if interested and I will forward the info to Jan. Thanks! Vern Anderson 98 M3/2
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#3. Test day - more info - from James Clay
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Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 18:49:57 -0400 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Test day - more info Sorry, should have included this. A competition license is required and track will be run under race rules but contact and stupidly aggressive driving will not be tolerated. I think full racecars may not be required, but if you are interested, send me an email and I will investigate. James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance 540.639.9648
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#4. RE: claying and polish - from BOOM,BILL (HP-Roseville,ex1)
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Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 16:02:47 -0700 From: "BOOM,BILL (HP-Roseville,ex1)" <bill.boom@hp.com> Subject: RE: claying and polish I wrote (with respect to removing tire marks): > > Most of the alternatives suggested > > (Goo-Gone, Bug and Tar Removal) > > will take wax off, so at that point you might as > > well just use plain old > > polish, no? Then Zack wrote: > hmmm .. i don't think so. use a polish when you want > to buff up your clear coat to remove oxidation and > scratches. goo gone will simply dissolve the tire > marks, not doing anything to your clear coat. too > much polishing means less clearcoat. ....and went on to extoll the virtues of clay. Then Mel wrote: > As a "second opinion" I offer an excerpt from "Car Care > Online" about the > use/abuse of clay: > > "Many people are touting overspray clay as the new way to "clean" your > paint. This is somewhat like washing your face by peeling off > the top layer > of skin... What I was originally trying to say is that everything mentioned (including clay) will take off at least wax, if not paint - so try elbow grease first, and if that doesn't work then go to the next-least-abrasive method. Whether that means polish or Goo-Gone might be a subject for debate. But the thread illuminated a lack of understanding I have about paint care. I always thought that polish (in its most abrasive forms) worked by removing the top layer of paint, revealing the fresh, sparkly virgin paint underneath. But now I realize that that may have been true in the pre-clearcoating days, but now the clearcoat is the first thing that would have to come off. Which begs the question, if you use any product that removes clearcoat at all, how do you "replenish" the clearcoat layer? - Bill
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#5. Stock exhaust hanger - from Joe Tan
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Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 16:31:14 -0700 (PDT) From: Joe Tan <mailjtan@yahoo.com> Subject: Stock exhaust hanger A buddy of mine is in the process of reverting back from a aftermarket to a stock exhaust. He just noticed that the aftermarket exhaust comes with hangers welded in while the stock exhuast he got does not have these hangers on it. Does anyone know if the stock exhaust uses a different mounting system than the aftermarket exhaust? Does he need to buy a mounting kit from the dealer? Anyone knows the part# and price? Thanx, Joe. __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo. http://search.yahoo.com
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#6. Re: claying - from Robert.Eric.Fesler@nsc.com
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Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 17:50:14 -0700 From: Robert.Eric.Fesler@nsc.com Subject: Re: claying Date: Fri, 02 May 2003 08:27:12 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: claying In which case, due to the clear coat - which is the top layer of paint you don't want to lose - you wouldn't be able to tell whether the clay was taking it off or not. Right? Neil 96 M3 Not to pick on Neil but the whole idea that clay being rubbed on a layer of soapy water on your car is going to take off paint is totally ludicrous. One might as well argue that washing your car with a washcloth and soapy water is removing the paint. The idea of claying is to provide a safe way to get small debris which is stuck to the paint off. The removed bits penetrate into the clay so that they are less likely to leave scratches. You do still need to turn and fold the clay frequently. As a counter example color sanding is done by hand using sandpaper. It removes about 1/3 of the clear coat. It requires sandpaper course enough to leave obvious haze behind. It requires a significant amount of rubbing. Sliding a piece of clay on a layer of soapy water is like sliding your hand on a layer of soapy water except safer because a piece of grit caught in the interface has someplace to hide in the case of the clay. Cheers, Eric
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#7. Three Month Report -- Followup - from Nancy Fluharty
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Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 23:24:25 -0400 From: "Nancy Fluharty" <fluhar@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Three Month Report -- Followup Thanks to all who responded to my whines and muses. I've interspersed some responses to those responses. Josh listed the things his car has needed in the 7 months he's owned it: >water pump >fan clutch >oxygen sensor >knock sensor >6 coil packs >1 dme (bmw emmissions warranty) >vanos unit >timing chain and tensioner Mercy, mercy! OK, I now have NO COMPLAINTS. >I did have a soft brake pedal until I bled the brakes >with a motiv brake bleeder and got 5+ bubbles out of >the left rear caliper. Now they feel great. Yeah, that's what I use too. I think repetition is the key. Scott said: >Good luck keeping up that 24-25mpg average - I've only managed that on trips >where I'm not alone. Even on the freeway when alone I'm lucky to get 24mpg >because I'm generally driving waaaay toooooo fast... :-) :-) :-) >M3's are real good at that. I get 21-22 around town / combo city + highway. I'm seeing some decline as I get comfortable with spanking it a little more. .. . >I saw a nice black E30 M3 today heading up the twisty mountain road I was >biking up. Neat cars. But I'll take the E36 with it's sweet motor any day >of the week. I do some biking too -- but I hate sharing twisty mountain roads with guys in M3's! Kim said: >Nancy Fluharty wrote a Three Month Report (well maybe not - Bob - I believe you >can piggy-back an email address of your own off of your wife's at&t account - I >did anyway, well not _your_ wife's, but you get the idea.) I prefer it this way -- now all the Vi#gra spam is addressed to her! >Bob - I believe we all experience trammelling which I believe can be partially >cured by adding an X-Brace to the front end. That's on my list of future projects -- didn't realize it would help with tramlining though. Bobby said: >The washer nozzles can be adjusted to point to your windshield rather than your knee. Yeah, the stream hits the windshield just right, but blows to the edge and in the side window. Now that I know that, I close the window. But I've never had it happen in another car. And finally, Rich said: >Jacking an M3 without dramatics with nearly any jack without a jack pad, 2"x"6s or anything extra.... Here >goes (I have posted this numerous times): Rich, thanks for your detailed and comprehensive jacking instructions. I guess I wasn't clear on this -- my comment was just that, before I could do anything else, I had to figure out how to get my jack under the car! Turns out my 20-yr old Sears jack had a simple means to lower the cradle by about three-quarters of an inch which I had never noticed (or needed to) before. Once I discovered that, no further problems. I can use the jacking points or reach the front or rear cross-members. >You can replace the [ball joint] boots only or, if the parts are near the end of their life, wait until they are >finished and then >replace with new. I haven't had the best luck replacing the boots as well as they come >stock but this may be >just me. The dealer tells me I can't buy just the boot. And since you can't buy just the ball joint for an M3, he wants to sell me control arms because of a torn piece of rubber. I assume my CA's are original so they're probably due soon, but I may look into generic (AutoZone?) boots for now. Anybody tried this? >Are you going to Mid Ohio over the Memorial Day weekend? If so, what car are you bringing??? No, but I'll be there in the fall, probably the September Buckeye school. Thinking I'll bring my wife's Accord - might be too strenuous for the M3! Bob Fluharty 95 M3 <-- purchased with Mid-Ohio firmly in mind 87 325is Cincinnati
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#8. first autox on Ecsta V700 and camber questions - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 23:26:49 EDT From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: first autox on Ecsta V700 and camber questions Hi Group, Well, first autox with the Kumho Ecsta V700 was interesting. Grip seemed pretty good with the temperature only around 60 degrees. After 5 runs, I did notice a "rolling back" of the surface rubber between the first and second groove. I think this looks worse then it is. Rear tires, look normal. I usually rotate my tires front to back for each autox. Just a note, three of my tires are the K6A compound, and one is the newer K8A compound (this one was on back, and did appear in the best shape). I called TireRack and they are looking into the mix of rubber they sent me back in March. I'm trying to get them to exchange one of the K6A for a K8A. We'll see. I do need a little more camber in front, as I am only running -1.1 degrees (saves my street tires). I'm looking to go to -1.5 degrees. My BMW mechanic recently installed the camber bolt, but how do you use this? Also, how much camber do you get when you add one standard shim washer at the base of the strut? I forget? TIA, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA AS Champion '97 & '00 BSP Champion '01 & '02
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#9. [WYB] E36 headlamps stock, cheap - from Michael Turgeon
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Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 20:26:58 -0700 (PDT) From: Michael Turgeon <turgeon1@yahoo.com> Subject: [WYB] E36 headlamps stock, cheap Gruppe: Any one have some stock headlamps laying around after an ellipsoid upgrade thatI could take off your hands? Needed to repair the race car so think cheap! Please email privately. Thanks, Mike 93 325is #418 JP #18 ITS __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo. http://search.yahoo.com
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Three Month Report -- Followup - from DocWyte
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Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 20:50:34 -0700 (PDT) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Three Month Report -- Followup I had the cam gears replaced with the vanos and timing chain as well. I have to say that most of the stuff was maintenance, like the water pump and sensors. The dme getting spiked by the melted coil pack was a weird one tho. I'm not really bummed about the repairs as my car came with a warranty which has paid for all of this stuff. I'm just hoping that most/all of the maintenance things break while I still have the warranty... -josh --- Nancy Fluharty <fluhar@worldnet.att.net> wrote: > Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 23:24:25 -0400 > From: "Nancy Fluharty" <fluhar@worldnet.att.net> > Subject: Three Month Report -- Followup > > Thanks to all who responded to my whines and muses. > I've interspersed some > responses to those responses. > > Josh listed the things his car has needed in the 7 > months he's owned it: > >water pump > >fan clutch > >oxygen sensor > >knock sensor > >6 coil packs > >1 dme (bmw emmissions warranty) > >vanos unit > >timing chain and tensioner > > Mercy, mercy! OK, I now have NO COMPLAINTS. > ===== __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo. http://search.yahoo.com
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#11. FS: Borla - from DocWyte
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Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 20:51:09 -0700 (PDT) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: FS: Borla ===== __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo. http://search.yahoo.com
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#12. FS: Borla "track pipe" - from DocWyte
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Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 20:54:14 -0700 (PDT) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: FS: Borla "track pipe" I have the front half of a borla race exhaust for sale, ie the "track pipe" portion. This is a direct replacement for your cat pipes. It'll bolt right onto your stock exhaust manifolds or headers and will fit aftermarket headers that put their outlets in the stock location. It'll fit any stock or aftermarket cat back exhaust. It's lightly used for about 5000 miles. No rust, dents, dings etc. It'll work on both OBD1 and OBD2, but the OBD2 guys will need AA's O2 simulators to avoid a check engine light. It gave a noticable increase in power on my '95 M3 (running it with my stock cat back) with no appreciable loss in low end. Sound quality is like an aftermarket cat back, but it's totally stock quiet when cruising. Looking for $300 plus shipping. -josh ===== __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo. http://search.yahoo.com