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#1. RE730 needed - from Scott King
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Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 09:12:07 -0400 From: "Scott King" <vw8vgti@hotmail.com> Subject: RE730 needed <html><div style='background-color:'><DIV> <P>Guys,</P> <P>Does anyone have a Bridgestone RE730 laying around in 235/40/17? At least 75% tread depth would be preferred. I just picked up a nail in the sidewall of a fairly new tire, and I don't see RE730's listed on TireRack anymore. Any leads?</P> <P>Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!</P> <P>Scott King<BR><BR></P></DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>The new <a href="http://g.msn.com/8HMRENUS/2737??PS=">MSN 8:</a> smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* </html>
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#2. Feeler: Kosei K1 Racing 17x8.5 wheels with Kumho Ecsta track rubber - from e36m3digest@jedinite.com
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Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 09:52:33 -0500 From: "e36m3digest@jedinite.com" <e36m3digest@jedinite.com> Subject: Feeler: Kosei K1 Racing 17x8.5 wheels with Kumho Ecsta track rubber Feeling out a sale: Kosei K1 Racing 17x8.5 wheels with 235/40/17 Kumho Ecsta V700 tires. Tires have been through two 2-day driving schools. Lots and lots of life left. Wheels are in perfect condition, only used on the track. Tires were heatcycled from TireRack before purchase. Feeler - anyone interested at $1200? I'm thinking of upgrading to 18" wheels for this season... Wheels are selling for $210/ea new from Eurosport, tires are $149/ea from the rack. ($1436 for a new setup) Picture on the car: http://www.performify.com/images/07-28-02/lo-res/DSC01056.JPG Eric M. Foster Performify.com
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#3. Euro HFM + AA CAI + JC chip... thoughts... - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 11:44:34 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Euro HFM + AA CAI + JC chip... thoughts... > BTW, what are you going to do with your old Dinan chip? Mine has been > sitting in my desk drawer for 5 years. I feel bad trying to sell it when I > know it is far inferior. I paid $250 for it. Maybe I can find some sucker > (er... I mean enthusiast) on eBay to buy it. I've dissed Dinan so often on > this list I know none of you guys will buy it. ;-) eBay it and don't feel the least bit sorry about it. If it works as advertised (tongue slightly in cheek), someone will likely want it just because it is a DINAN chip. Later, Rich
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#4. Underpanel - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 11:47:09 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Underpanel > Second, it probably goes with > saying, but anyone planning on running at these speeds > should probably make sure the ol' underbody panel is > doubly secured. Didn't take 130 for mine to come > loose. The underpanel doesn't come flying up due to the speed per se, it comes up because the mounting points become damaged (either bumping into curbs or off track excursions...I don't know anything about either of these though ;-) Just beef up your mounting points and you will be much better off. Also, beefing up some of the other plastic attachment points (where the pork chops attach and the fender liners), is a good idea. Neil, myself, and many other have done this. Later, Rich
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#5. It Came From Outer Spacer - from Steve Klein
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Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 10:59:36 -0700 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: It Came From Outer Spacer Hello, all- I'm interested in going to wheel studs on my '95, stock ride height with the 235/40s on the original Contours all around and curious to know what width spacers I could add to bring the wheels out for a fuller look without interference. I've got Koni SA's with the H&R OE Sport springs, but I'm thinking of going to the H&R Sports (or possibly Eibachs, I'm open to suggestions) to drop the car a bit (1.5-1.75"). Does anyone have this setup or know of any clearance issues with or without spacers? After seeing pics of some of your cars with the wheels nearly flush with the body, it seems that that's how the car was meant to be. Thanks, Steve
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#6. new Valvoline Racing oils - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 12:17:37 EDT From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: new Valvoline Racing oils Group, Just received some info in the mail from Valvoline about their new racing oils. Anyone using these new "not street legal" racing oils? Is there real merit here (they claim extra HP), or just more marketing hype???? TIA, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA AS Champion '97 & '00 BSP Champion '01 & '02
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#7. Euro filter housing w/cooler connection - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 12:50:38 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Euro filter housing w/cooler connection > Hmm. Not sure where you got that part number or what it is. My ETK shows > this oil filter housing to be 11 42 1 404 206, and that's what I bought from > The BMW Store (Roundel advertiser) for $279 a few months ago. I concur. > This previously Euro only housing is now also used on our E46 M3, and is > therefore both less expensive and more available than it used to be. Did not know this. Neil is a wealth of information.... :-) > Potential adopters of this part should be aware that both the Euro E36 M3 > and the E46 M3 engines have internal oil pressure lines to the VANOS, > whereas the US E36 M3 has an external hose. Unless you use a custom oil > adapter block - Rich D, sounds as if that's what you did, right? - then you > will also need to re-drill and tap the housing's M12 oil temp sender port to > M14x1.25 to accept the VANOS oil pressure hose banjo bolt. Note also that > since M14x1.25 is an unusually fine thread, you may have to hunt around for > the corresponding tap. The second sender port, also M12, is correct for the > existing E36 oil pressure warning switch, and need not be modified. I had a custom ODB due to my old US oil filter housing which doesn't allow for the use of the JTD ODB. I had to further customize my ODB to fit with the euro oil filter housing as the ports are closer together and arranged slightly differently compared to the US filter housing. My ODB connects via an M12 banjo bolt, just like it did on the US housing. I still had to tap the one port for the VANOS line as Neil outlines above. This is pretty easy to do. I have a Snap On M14 x 1.25 tap for sale (used once) if anyone needs it. Oh yeah, one of the biggest problems I can see with the euro oil filter housing is the skimpy bolt they give you for attaching the oil cooler lines to the housing. The bolt is simply too short to engage adequate threads in the housing. Do yourself a favor and replace with a longer bolt, the housing has plenty of depth there, the BMW specd bolt though is too short. You don't want to strip your new housing. Mine stripped before the proper torque was applied. A longer bolt engaged enough threads so I didn't have to insert a helicoil but I am sure I will have to one day if I end up abusing that bolt. Later, Rich
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#8. Questions about compression(second try) - from Jon Phillips
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Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 10:03:47 -0700 From: jon@maximumpc.com (Jon Phillips) Subject: Questions about compression(second try) (I emailed the below letter last week, but I never saw it in the list, nor did I see any follow-up responses. I think my mail server never sent out the original -- but I apologize if this is the second time you're reading this.) These questions have always nagged me, so I thought I'd shoot them to the list. When I bought my car three years ago, I was much less tech savvy. I knew consistent compression numbers accross all six cylinders was important, but I never took the time to learn what compression for the S52 should be (in new form out of the factory). - My numbers three years ago were 172 accross all six. These seem low given other compresison numbers I've seen reported. But I've also heard that compression results can be all over the map depending on testing conditions, and that consistency is most important. Did I get a good engine, or are the numbers too low under any circumstances? If you know what you're talking about, please feel to write me a friggin' white paper on compression readings. You won't bore me. - How exactly does compression relate to horsepower? In other words, let say that over time an engine drops from 190 psi to 170 psi accross all six (hypothtical example; just making this up). How would such a drop relate to ever-diminishing horsepower returns? Is it a one to one correlation? Are we talking 5hp? 10hp? Or another way of looking at it: How much slower is an E36 M3 with 250,000 miles versus one with 50,000 miles? Thanks, listers. Hopefully someone is ready to geek out on compression theory.
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Euro HFM + AA CAI + JC chip... thoughts... - from Jake McClean
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Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 10:02:30 -0700 (PDT) From: Jake McClean <sin@mail.value.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Euro HFM + AA CAI + JC chip... thoughts... > But you are absolutely correct. I have dyno charts with both Dinan and JC > chips. And yes indeed, the JC chip "feels" slower vs. Dinan for the reason > you state. When I first put in the JC chip (before dynoing it), I was > moderately disappointed. Then I saw the back to back dyno's. No more > complaints. Jim Conforti "tunes" his chips for mid-range torque which I > think is best. You are in the mid-range much more often than you are above > 6,000 rpm. I will say Dinan does OK at making peak HP. Peak values are > about the same - Dinan might even make a tad bit more peak HP. But JC has a > much broader torqu/HP graph. Far superior IMHO. Actually, it's starting to feel like I did gain a bit of power even at the top of the rev range, although that could have more to do with the euro HFM than anything else. The motor is definitely much smoother and revvier up top, along with the added kick. > There is another very significant improvement in the JC vs. Dinan chip. For > this reason alone, I highly recommend JC over Dinan. Notice what happens > when you let off the gas and coast in gear. If you are over about 15 mph, > the DME will cut off the gas to the engine. Notice the mpg gauge in the > tachometer. I will go to infinity when coasting. If you continue to coast > and slow down, the gas will turn back on. With the stock chip, this is a > VERY ABRUPT change. It drove me nuts. Stop and go rush hour driving was > horribly uncomfortable. The Dinan chip is a little better. But the JC chip > is absolutely invisible. You cannot tell when the fuel cut off occurs unless > you look at the mpg gauge. Ah HAH! I *knew* something was different. One of the first things I noticed as I drove around town was that the car felt "smoother", but I kept telling myself it was all in my head. As many of us know, it's quite easy to let your expectations dictate what you feel after a modification, so I wrote the smoothness off as delusion. Glad to know I'm not nuts! :) > BTW, what are you going to do with your old Dinan chip? Mine has been > sitting in my desk drawer for 5 years. I feel bad trying to sell it when I > know it is far inferior. I paid $250 for it. Maybe I can find some sucker > (er... I mean enthusiast) on eBay to buy it. I've dissed Dinan so often on > this list I know none of you guys will buy it. ;-) Oh, I'll probably sell it for cheap. It isn't a bad chip by any means and certainly adds some kick to any stock M3. Not everyone can afford to drop $250 on a chip. Jake 95 M3
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#10. FS: AutoSolutions (aka, BMP, Bav Auto) SSK - from DocWyte
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Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 16:29:15 -0700 (PDT) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: FS: AutoSolutions (aka, BMP, Bav Auto) SSK I have an AutoSolutions (Shift Happens, aka BMP, BAv Auto) short shift kit forsale. It's used, but has been "refurbished" by Autosolutions, so it's as good as new. It's still in the packaging I received from them, it includes install instructions and a new so called "bitch" clip. Check out the following url for more info: http://www.autosolutions.net/index.html Looking to get $125 plus shipping for it. -josh ===== __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo. http://search.yahoo.com