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#1. Re: [E36M3] Hot tire pressures for Kumho Victoracer V700 - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 11:07:46 -0700 From: "Kit Wetzler" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Hot tire pressures for Kumho Victoracer V700 > Sounds like you had the pressures too low, the wear you mention also > indicated that somewhat. Yup, this is what I'd run them at, too. Cold about 34/32, then going up from there, set them to about 37/35 before each run session. I think the V700 victoracers are ok, the problem is that get greasy if you push on them. I miss the days of the BFG 230-R1. (I definitely don't miss the 2 sets of the G-farce R1 I've had on the car... bleh) -kit
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#2. Airbag light - from Robert Exconde
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Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 13:09:18 -0500 From: "Robert Exconde" <99e36m3@exconde.com> Subject: Airbag light I'm sure this has been discussed before but my airbag light just came on, my friend airbag light came on at around 60K miles too but turned the car back in to the dealership with no fix. Is this fairly common, and what is the typical fix? Is it something that I could do or definatly a dealership issue?
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#3. Re:Groove of doom is here - from Steve Hazard
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Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 14:29:13 -0400 From: "Steve Hazard" <SHazard@nhboston.com> Subject: Re:Groove of doom is here I sent this out on the UUC Board> Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 07:03:03 -0400 From: "Steven Hazard" <98m3@attbi.com> Subject: [uuc] more track tires q's My .02 At the tail end of last year I started hearing about V700 wear issues. A few Run Group 1, or Instructor Level drivers were having problems with the V700's. I kind of made a mental note of this as it was the end of the season. I heard about chunking, etc......No specifics..... Then this Spring I decided it was time to buy another set of rims and tires just for the track (I run 245/40/17 AS303 Hoosiers on Fikse's for Autocross only) My gut said not to take a chance on the V700's and I began talking with people who had run on the RA1's. It was between the old VictoRacers 225/45's which I had run a few years ago, or the 235/40 Toyo's. I decided to pay a little more an get the 235/40 Toyos' for my 8" track rims. I had them shaved and I heat cycled them myself. I just did a school at NHIS on them and they were great. I was told to really take my time heating them up, So I did 6 warm up laps before running hard on them. They have Higher slip angles than the Hoosiers but gentle wear. I run 3.5 degrees of Neg Camber up front on my BSP prepared 98M3/4. I beleive the tire is similiar to the old VictoRacer in grip and wear but I like the 235/40 size of the Toyo better. At that same school 2 guys near my Garage space both had the exact same V700 wear problems. Both drivers, were RG1, or Instructor level drivers, and both sets tires were toast! One was on his 1st track day, the other his second! Ouch! Both sets had been shaved and heat cycled. Both tire sets had the the first tread block inside the shoulder block wear down much further than the other blocks on the tire. That tread block looked really bad! In fact I would never run on those tires again after the way they looked. I felt bad for both the drivers, but I sure was glad that I did not buy those Tires. I do know that many other drivers who aren't pushing their cars right to the limits are very happy with the V700's as long as they are shaved. Still, what I saw was not pretty. You can run a full tread RA1 at the track. One of the local Driving Instructors ran a set last year. Good rain tire, but in the dry they will tread squirm some until they wear well in. So you could drive on the street with them full depth to and from events. If your a real fast track junkie, you probably will not like the squirming :-), I know the instuctor wasn't happy with them until they were well worn in..... When my S03's wear out I'm probably going to run a full tread 235/40 RA1 as my street tire. Then if it rains at the track, I can use them :-). When they really are worn down, I'll wear them out as track tires :-) On another note I just finished running our first local Autocross School of the season and I did not want to use my Hoosiers for this so I tried the RA1's. Performance is not quite up to Kumho levels. The Tires just wouldn't get as hot as the Kumho's, and required much larger wheel inputs to work the course. Some of the instructors were on Kumho's and we swapped cars on and off during the day. My Hoosiers are much faster than both brands! Back into lurk mode :-) HTH, Steve Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 08:51:11 -0700 (PDT) From: Garrett <garrettmcw@yahoo.com> Subject: Groove of doom is here I think I'm sort of fooked. Just got a set of Ecsta V700's (unshaved as recommended for autox by my tire guy) and went out last night to do a parking lot heat cycle. Pressures were 37F/36R cold, heating procedure was a few miles of fast highway travel, then about ten skidpad-style circles in each direction in a parking lot. Got home and pulled them off, and the fronts have severe wear, almost chunking, on the outside edge of the second-to-outermost tread blocks. Dammit, dammit, dammit. How could that have happened so fast? Is the tire guy wrong about shaving? Have I just ruined these things? Dammit!! -Garrett
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#4. [E36M3] M3 vs Z06 Impressions - from Colin_S_Whelan@rrfc.raytheon.com
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Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 14:56:22 -0400 From: Colin_S_Whelan@rrfc.raytheon.com Subject: [E36M3] M3 vs Z06 Impressions Hi group, About 3 months ago I asked about people's impression of the Corvette Z06 in comparison to an E36 M3, as I was contemplating buying a Z06. I got some great responses. Fast forward a few months and I now wanted to share my impressions after driving my Z06 for a couple of months. In terms of biases, I love my M3. I consider it to be the best car that I have ever owned. I also have a muscle car bug though, having grown up modifying an old Trans Am with a turbocharged V-8. My comparison is to a '98 M3/2 with the following mods: JC software +intake, Dinan suspension, Euro rotors + R4s pads, X-brace, S03s etc, which I have owned for 3.5 years. I've autoxed the car since day 1, and rub it with a diaper the other days. Handling: The Z06 feels heavier in turn-in, even though it weighs the same, due to the massive tires (265, 295). The ride is amazingly compliant, far more than my Dinan suspended M3. I haven't got to test the ultimate handling at the autox/track yet, but it appears to be considerably higher than the M3. Power oversteer is only a touch of the gas away. The active handling control is amazing....barely intrusive and gently comes in to regain control when there's a large slip angle. The M3, probably to due my comfort level with it, wins in the "feel" department, the Z06 in ultimate G forces. Brakes: A little sensitive, especially for heel and toeing on the street. The gas pedal is a bit low to facilitate easy heel and toeing on the street. The deceleration is quite impressive though with those huge tires and autox/track level stock brake pads. They dust far more than stock M3 pads though! The M3 wins in ability to heel and toe easily, and the Z06 wins in ultimate Gs. Acceleration: I consider my M3 to be pretty quick, consistently putting down 5.4s 0-60 times according to the GTech. The Z06 is ridiculous. I can literally get rubber (295/35ZR18s) in 2nd gear at 45 mph by just punching the gas, with the traction control on! Of course, even it needs a few more HP, so the mods have begun! The big V-8 revs very quickly and has amazing throttle response, and pulls strong towards redline (6600 rpm), although I haven't made it there yet due to break-in. The exhaust sounds amazing at high RPM. Similar in fact, to a friend's older (~93) 911 Turbo S after 4000 rpm. The Z06 easily wins this category. I now need cams or a supercharger for the M3 :) Quality: Paint finish is not up to par on the Z06. The paint is ridiculously delicate and the paint has a couple of minor flaws. Interior is a bit cheesy, but fit and finish are OK. The Z06 has nicely fitted seats, but they're a bit flimsy. Advantage: M3. Overall, I find the Z06 to be a perfect complement to the M3, not a replacement. The Z06 exceeds all of my expectations and is truly a supercar at a relatively affordable price. Thanks for the BW, Colin
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#5. Re: [E36M3] battery? - from Scott McClung
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Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 12:01:52 -0700 (PDT) From: Scott McClung <smlists@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] battery? I lucked out and found the Interstate at the rare parts store that carries them. Only a couple miles from work too. Just swapped it in the parking lot and I'm back in action, folks!! Thanks. Now I just need a vent tube adapter cause the battery vent is in the wrong spot to connect to the factory tube. Scott Wen Liew <wwliew@hotmail.com> wrote:Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 10:02:21 -0700 From: "Wen Liew" Subject: Re: [E36M3] battery? >Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 16:43:37 -0700 (PDT) >From: Scott McClung >Subject: battery? > > > >Any recommendations for a battery for our cars? > >Scott > >'98 M3 - dead When my stock battery died after 7 years, I needed one immediately but couldn't find an Interstate battery locally. Fortunately, Sears carries a DieHard International GRp 48 that fits our car. Saved about $40 over stock. Let's see if it last for 5 years (100/140 x 7) Wen _________________________________________________________________ Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#6. Re: [E36M3] battery? - from Scott McClung
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Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 12:02:36 -0700 (PDT) From: Scott McClung <smlists@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] battery? Oh - and BTW - the Interstate was $96 Wen Liew <wwliew@hotmail.com> wrote:Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 10:02:21 -0700 From: "Wen Liew" Subject: Re: [E36M3] battery? >Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 16:43:37 -0700 (PDT) >From: Scott McClung >Subject: battery? > > > >Any recommendations for a battery for our cars? > >Scott > >'98 M3 - dead When my stock battery died after 7 years, I needed one immediately but couldn't find an Interstate battery locally. Fortunately, Sears carries a DieHard International GRp 48 that fits our car. Saved about $40 over stock. Let's see if it last for 5 years (100/140 x 7) Wen _________________________________________________________________ Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#7. Toyo RA1's - from Tom Melton
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Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 14:45:30 -0400 From: "Tom Melton" <tom_melton@emoryhealthcare.org> Subject: Toyo RA1's Since the track tire subject has come up again... I am familiar with the older Kumho V700 tires, and appreciated the fact the tire could be swapped inside out to extend the life of the tire. Even though technically directional in the mold/tread pattern, there was no issue with flipping on a rim. Can the same be done with the Toyo RA1's? Any downside/problems doing so? Tom Melton 95 M3
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#8. Re: [E36M3] M3 vs Z06 Impressions - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 12:27:04 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] M3 vs Z06 Impressions Colin_S_Whelan@rrfc.raytheon.com at Colin_S_Whelan@rrfc.raytheon.com wrote: > Handling: The Z06 feels heavier in turn-in, even though it weighs the same, > due to the massive tires (265, 295). The ride is amazingly compliant, far > more than my Dinan suspended M3. I haven't got to test the ultimate > handling at the autox/track yet, but it appears to be considerably higher > than the M3. Power oversteer is only a touch of the gas away. The active > handling control is amazing....barely intrusive and gently comes in to > regain control when there's a large slip angle. The M3, probably to due my > comfort level with it, wins in the "feel" department, the Z06 in ultimate G > forces. I drove a friend's Z06 at the track not too long ago. It is SO EASY to drive that car fast! Really impressive. It's maybe the very cushy Z06 seats, but the driving experience feels "softer" to me than an E36 M3. Even stock one. > Quality: Paint finish is not up to par on the Z06. The paint is > ridiculously delicate and the paint has a couple of minor flaws. I have a 2002 GMC truck and the paint scratches when you look at it sideways. Not to mention that GM was being chintzy with paint that day and interior areas (ie door sills, tail gate sill, etc) have paint so thin you can see the undercoat through it. The interior quality sucks, too. And the stereo is the same stellar-sounding POS that's in the Corvette. And in the Cavalier. But the 300HP and 520 lb/ft of turbodiesel torque make up for all of it. :) - Mark '94 325is race car -- mark@pdc-racing.net
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Toyo RA1's - from twisty M3
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Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 12:50:00 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Toyo RA1's No downsides or problems that I've noticed when swapping the tire on the rim. The directional pattern is really only beneficial in the wet... otherwise and direction is fine with the RA1s, and after a certain point they're no longer good in the wet anyway. The only problme I have come up with is that I can no longer seem to find tire places willing to swap tires in such a manner. They seem to be starting a "no remounting of used tires" campaign, especially if the tire wear is significant. I've even offered to sign a release and told them that the wheels were for track use anyway, but no dice. I never used to have a problem with this. :( Jonathan L. >From: "Tom Melton" <tom_melton@emoryhealthcare.org> > >I am familiar with the older Kumho V700 tires, and appreciated the fact the >tire could be swapped inside out to extend the life of the tire. Even >though technically directional in the mold/tread pattern, there was no >issue with flipping on a rim. > >Can the same be done with the Toyo RA1's? Any downside/problems doing so? > >Tom Melton >95 M3 _________________________________________________________________ Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
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#10. Re: Worn Sway links/bushings and wallowing? - from Steve Klein
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Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 15:16:10 -0700 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Re: Worn Sway links/bushings and wallowing? Hi, Kirk- I'll have the car up tonight to try the next iteration of grease retention modifications for the PowerFlex RTABs, so I'll check the lollypops and links while I'm there. I have new front links on the way from Turner (one adjustable, one static) to be sure they're fine. I'll also re-check the front sway bushings as they're the original rubber and somewhat squished about, if I remember correctly. I'd say that I'm definitely a better driver, and definitely pushing the car and myself more. When I'm actually 'driving', I prioritize being smooth in every input or transition, as I learned by pushing my ZX-9R quite hard at Heartland Park in Topeka. (No cage, no glass, just asphalt whizzing past your shoulder!) The problem exists even in milder turns where the car wants to roll a bit before it sets. The 'yanking' of the wheel is just part of my testing over a range of conditions. One main difference, as you mentioned, is the spring rates. I understand that the H&R' OE Sports, while slightly stiffer, are more progressive and the stock springs functionally more linear, so I'm looking into a lower and stiffer (preferably linear) spring. Once I decide on springs, I'll have an alignment and get the tie rods checked. Thank you for your feedback, Steve On Wednesday, May 21, 2003, at 12:43 PM, KLchmn@aol.com wrote: > Steve, > > I'm on AOL so the digest bounces my posts (online I can't put the text > to plain). > >> A question on handling response: On quicker turn-ins, the >very first >> response I'm getting from the nose of the car is a >slight body roll >> before it sets into the turn. When I first >got it, the nose stayed >> level and 'just went' when I pointed >it. > > After checking the poly bushings (they wear faster than the stock > ones) I'd look at the tightness of the swaybar links as they tend to > loosen up over time. > > Ok, now that you've done that and found nothing wrong (guessing), I'll > speculate further: > > Are you a better driver than when you first got the car (i.e., > entering corners faster due to confidence)? If so, then you are > probably causing the car to 'fall' over on the springs due to > insufficient spring rate for your higher cornering forces. Also, make > sure you are 'bending' the car into the corner so this is a gradual > change. Don't just yank the wheel to where it needs to be to make the > corner. Gradually increase the amount of steering input until you > reach the point you need for the corner. Helps the weight transfer > smoother. > > You also may have tweaked a tie rod causing an increase in toe in, > this would slow down the turn in significantly. > > Hope this helps. > > Kirk Lachman > Sin City Chapter > '95 M3 #21 I-stock