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#1.E36 M3 Euro Springs - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 17:05:36 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: <FS> E36 M3 Euro Springs Is anyone interested in BMW E36 M3 Front and Rear Euro Springs. The part numbers are front BMW part #31 33 2 227 422 and rear BMW part #33 53 9 064 881. These springs are a little firmer and lower the ride height over the stock springs that came on US E36 M3s. $200 or best offer can take them. Regards, Rich
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#2. RE: battery? - from Mike Frank
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Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 16:31:16 -0500 From: Mike Frank <mfrank28@comcast.net> Subject: RE: battery? Andy R. summed up a few of the popular options well. You could also go with a small SLA battery such as the Dyna-Batt. However the Dyna-Batt is just a relabeled Hawker for twice the price. I would go with the Hawker Genesis G16EP or the Odyssey PC680 (also made by Hawker). Both fit in the excellent mounting bracket made by Russ Wiles. I think he still has a few left. Thanks again Russ. Don't forget to buy screw in SAE terminals (online or Batteries Plus). You might try the PC680MJT, MJ = metal jacket, T = SAE terminals. Not sure if it fits in Russ's bracket. Might if you can slip off the metal jacket. These batteries are available online very cheap. They should also be available locally at a Batteries plus or an Interstate dealer. My local Interstate dealer had everything: MTP-91, Optima Red Top, Hawker G16EP, Odyssey PC680/680 MJT, and more. They wanted ~$110 for a PC680, but sold it for $80 when I said I could get it online for ~$65. Very small, very light. Didn't require any modifications to the stock wiring. I have been very happy with it so far. I would recommend looking at this site: http://www.stealth316.com/2-dynabatt.htm . It has a lot of info and links. I would also recommend checking out the Hawker site, specifically the sections on charging and maintenance. Mike Frank 97 M3 - 13lb. Odyssey PC680 > -------------------- 1 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 16:43:37 -0700 (PDT) > From: Scott McClung <smlists@pacbell.net> > Subject: battery? > > Any recommendations for a battery for our cars? > > Scott
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#3. Ground Control E36 M3 Hybrid Camber/Caster plates - from Rex Tener
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Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 14:36:08 -0700 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: Ground Control E36 M3 Hybrid Camber/Caster plates I was surfing the Ground Control web site when I noticed in the BMW new parts area: <http://www.ground-control.com/bmwnew.htm> BMW E36 M3 Hybrid Camber/Caster plates Anyone have these installed? Rex
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#4. Re: Hot tire pressures for Kumho Victoracer V700 - from Peter Fanning
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Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 15:20:33 -0700 From: Peter Fanning <p.fanning@verizon.net> Subject: Re: Hot tire pressures for Kumho Victoracer V700 When I used these tires I ran them at 40 hot all the way around. This seems to be the right pressure for just about every tire I've tired on my (mostly) stock suspended M3/4. Lower pressures result in too much tire roll, higher pressures lower grip. Peter Fanning '98 M3/4 At 09:35 AM 5/21/2003 -0500, you wrote: >Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 07:23:38 -0700 (PDT) >From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> >Subject: Hot tire pressures for Kumho Victoracer V700 > >Got back from a weekend at the Glen and had a pretty good time, though my >usual >gang wasn't there. Was in B run group along with Matt Malfa still getting >used >to running on R compound tires as this is my second event with them. > >I have 225/45 on 17x8 IFGs all around. Stock springs, Koni replacement >struts/shocks and Eibach sways set at soft/soft (I think). I've been running >32/31psi (f/r) hot but was wondering if that was ideal. I've been >rotating the >tires (left to right, front to back), but I have noticed that the tread near >the middle is a bit lower than the tread on the shoulder...kinda like the >groove of doom of the Ecsta V700s. Are the Victoracer V700s prone to this as >well? > >TIA, >Chester
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#5. FS: Triple-adjust rear shocks - from Lee E. Piccione
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Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 20:54:52 -0400 From: "Lee E. Piccione" <leepic@smart.net> Subject: FS: Triple-adjust rear shocks Gruppe, I am selling a set of 4-month old used Moton Triple Adjustable rear shocks. The only reason I'm selling these is due to a rule change implemented by the SCCA pertaining to the SoloII Street Prepared class. The shocks were originally purchased near the end of last year from BimmerHaus Performance. They have been removed from the car after only 4 autocrosses and about 150 street miles. They are in almost new condition. The shocks have a 16 position rebound, 6 position slow compression, and 15 position mid-speed compression adjustment. Spherical bearings for mounting on each end. All mounting hardware, instruction sheet, and stickers come with the pair. http://www.motonsuspension.com/threewayadj.htm The ride and handling characteristics of these shocks are incredible! I've driven cars with Koni's and Bilsteins and the increase in dampening is very noticeable! Check out their website to understand how they work. http://www.motonsuspension.com The shocks were about $1100 each when I purschased them. Asking $1600 for the pair! If anyone is interested in buying a complete set of 4 shocks, Bob Tunnell at BimmerHaus Performance will sell the fronts at a discounted price if you were to purchase the rear set I'm selling. Thanks, Lee '95 M3 Violet PS: Don't let the external canister scare you, these are VERY easy to install!!! The rear shock is the one on the right: http://www.autocrossersinc.org/members/lee/Motons.JPG More photos are available upon request.
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Shakey mirror? - from B Stoll
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Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 21:04:11 -0500 From: "B Stoll" <bobstoll@ameritech.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Shakey mirror? It can be tightened, I believe. I told my dealer about mine when they were doing another warranty repair. The SA just told me it was "adjusted". I never looked at it since. -Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Puertas" <Puertas@cox.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2003 11:17 PM Subject: [E36M3] Shakey mirror? > Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 21:09:07 -0700 > From: "Robert Puertas" <Puertas@cox.net> > Subject: Shakey mirror? > > Hey group, > Is there a quick fix for a shakey rear-view mirror? > Worst case, they can't be very expensive, right? > :-) > Thanks, > Robert
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Toyo RA1's --> flipping Kumho's - from Jeremy Lucas
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Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 23:02:39 -0400 From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Toyo RA1's --> flipping Kumho's I believe you are mistaken about flipping Victoracers V700 (unless your talking about something even older than that). It's the Ecsta V700 that can be flipped. Tire Rack: "The ECSTA V700 has two steel belts reinforced by two nylon cap plies to help stabilize the tread area and provide high speed capability. Additionally, a symmetric internal construction featuring three plies in the sidewall enhances quick steering response and high speed stability. As the tire's outer shoulder tread wears from hard cornering, the ECSTA V700's directional tread design and symmetric internal construction allows worn tires to be remounted "inside-out" on their wheels to prolong their life." Jeremy Lucas 95 M3 ps. On Monday I saw the new Kumho R compound tires that will be out this fall. No tread, just two grooves (like Hoosiers). On an Integra SSB race car (low camber = hard on tires & lots of sliding), their fast lap was 0.5secs quicker than Ecstas V700s and only slowed by 0.5 secs after 18 full on race laps vs 3-4 sec for the Ecstas. After the 18 laps they were good to go again, and the Ecstas were ready for the dumpster. Don't know anything more than that. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Melton" <tom_melton@emoryhealthcare.org> Since the track tire subject has come up again... I am familiar with the older Kumho V700 tires, and appreciated the fact the tire could be swapped inside out to extend the life of the tire. Even though technically directional in the mold/tread pattern, there was no issue with flipping on a rim. Can the same be done with the Toyo RA1's? Any downside/problems doing so? Tom Melton 95 M3
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#8. M3 leaking gas... - from Reid Conti
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Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 21:13:22 -0700 From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: M3 leaking gas... So I drove my 3/95 M3 to the Pruneyard in San Jose today.. got off the freeway, some guy tells me I'm leaking gas. Car had been sitting for a week on a 100% full tank, and the temp shot up recently, I naively assumed the tank was under a lot of pressure and might have been leaking a bit.. Got the car parked. Nope, DEFINITELY not the problem. Car's leaking gas from in front of my right rear wheel.. dripping off the underside of the car, who can tell where exactly. I checked under the rear seat, no gas, hell, no fuel lines for that matter. My car must have been built after they moved the fuel lines from under the rear seat. I'm assuming this is a clamp issue -- good assumption? Where are the fuel pumps, anyway? I know one's in the tank, one would be somewhere else..? Is it possible that the pump is leaking, or is it pretty much a for-sure that this is the lines leaking around the clamp? I left the car for 30 minutes and came back. Fuel drying, doesn't seem to be leaking anymore. This makes sense, I wouldn't expect it to leak with the pump off. So a few questions.. am I right in assuming it's probably a clamp? What clamps (how many) should I replace? how should I go about doing this? I don't have a place to work on my car down here, so I'll probably end up taking it to a shop.. Stevens Creek BMW, or an independent shop if someone can recommend one.. would be nice to avoid the expense of a dealership, especially for something so minor (hell, I hate the idea of paying a shop for something simple, but whatever). Preferably near the pruneyard. Should I drive it or get it towed? I'm not sure exactly how unsafe it is to drive, but it can't be a great idea. I think I still have the towing coverage from Progressive, hopefully a towing claim won't count against my premiums.. I left it there for now, I think I'll just have it towed or drive it to wherever it needs to go.. hopefully they won't impound my car if I leave it there overnight! any help would be greatly appreciated.. thanks! - reid
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#9. Center Console - from Robert Exconde
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Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 05:07:17 -0500 From: "Robert Exconde" <99e36m3@exconde.com> Subject: Center Console Does anyone know the part number for the center console without the armrest is? I get so sick of the armrest when I driving, and I recently had the armrest out but it looks goofy without the armret installed. I hate driving with it on the daily drive, half the time because its the passenger that wants the armrest, then we fight, and I tell them to get out of the car. RE 99e36m3
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#10. RE: Airbag light - from Robert Exconde
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Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 05:07:15 -0500 From: "Robert Exconde" <99e36m3@exconde.com> Subject: RE: Airbag light Sorry about the previous post. I guess it would help to know the model/make of my friend's car in comparison to mind. My friend had a 95 M3 with a build date of around october 94(?) , I'm not sure about the bulid date. and yes, according to my email address I do have a 99M3, the car is out of warranty. I bought my M on 8/11/01 used, and I pretty much know the entire service history, and the car has been in no accidents. The reason I had asked is that I have typically seen the airbag light come on at around 60K on several M3, but I never hung around to see the explanation or fix, either because I didnt have my M3 yet or I have heard it on the web. One additional note is that the light had come on when I was installing my Motorola Phone kit in my car. So I had to remove the center console to install all the wiring and the modules. So it is very possible the John's (THANKS!) initial response in saying that it is the buckle switch is probably correct. Is there a way to reset the light to see if the light comes back on? There is no such thing as a peake reset tool for airbag lights is there? :) Can I just ask the dealer to reset the light to see if it comes back on? I suppose that I Will have to bring it to the dealer soon... Robert Exconde 99e36m3 > I'm sure this has been discussed before but my airbag light just came on, my > friend airbag light came on at around 60K miles too but turned the car back > in to the dealership with no fix. Is this fairly common, and what is the > typical fix? Is it something that I could do or definatly a dealership > issue?
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#11. Lifetime Oils - from Robert Exconde
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Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 05:08:54 -0500 From: "Robert Exconde" <99e36m3@exconde.com> Subject: Lifetime Oils Do people ususally change the diff and trans fluids? I have 60K on the car and the only problem with shifting is when the car is hot either from stop and go driving or from warm weather. It gets hard to shift into 1, 2, 3 and then reverse. I have a BBClutch stop set but it seems like the disengagement point is changing. Usually it will be fine for an hour in SNG traffic but in warm weather usually half an hour. In which case I keep the car in 1st at the stoplights and sometimes it creeps, which I know is NOT good since I think it would be essentially the same as slipping the clutch, so I know I have to adjust the CS again. I'm bringing her in to the dealership for the airbag light and I dont have a lift to level the car so I may as well have the fluids changed too? re--99e36m3