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#1. Re: [E36M3] Re: Hot tire pressures for Kumho Victoracer V700 - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 06:35:52 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Hot tire pressures for Kumho Victoracer V700 Thanks for all the feedback, guys. Just a question...why does everyone say to heat them slowly? Take it slow for 5 laps?!??! Is that a bit excessive? That's like half a run session at the Glen! On another note...people suck. My car was broken into in Florham Park, NJ yesterday. The perp attempted to steal my radio so he smashed the window, gouged the dash, ripped the center vent out, and f*cked the radio. What doesn't make sense is if you're stealing the radio, why damage it? My alarm went off (I guess the little mic works for detecting glass breakage) and the security guard went over in his patrol car, pulled behind perp's pickup and shouted at him. The perp scrambled back into his truck, denting my door with his door in the process, backed up and rammed the security guard's truck and sped off. :( I guess at least I had the radio working this past weekend for the 4 - 5 hour trip to the Glen and back. Chester --- Peter Fanning <p.fanning@verizon.net> wrote: > Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 15:20:33 -0700 > From: Peter Fanning <p.fanning@verizon.net> > Subject: Re: Hot tire pressures for Kumho Victoracer V700 > > When I used these tires I ran them at 40 hot all the way around. This > seems to be the right pressure for just about every tire I've tired on my > (mostly) stock suspended M3/4. Lower pressures result in too much tire > roll, higher pressures lower grip. =====
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#2. Re: [E36M3] M3 leaking gas... - from NickG
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Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 09:36:46 -0400 From: "NickG" <nick@tech-nick.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] M3 leaking gas... Reid, You didn't dig far enough under the rear seat. Remove the rear seat bottom again, then lift up on the sound insulation. Under there you'll find 2 round metal covers. Those are access plates to the fuel pump and sending units. Remove the pass. side cover and you'll most likely find the problem. On my car, the primary fuel hose had softened and started leaking. Installing a worm clamp didn't solve the problem because the hose was too soft. I had to cut the hose back a bit, then install an extension to reach the nipple again. Nick > Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 21:13:22 -0700 > From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> > Subject: M3 leaking gas... > > So I drove my 3/95 M3 to the Pruneyard in San Jose today.. got off the > freeway, some guy tells me I'm leaking gas. Car had been sitting for a > week on a 100% full tank, and the temp shot up recently, I naively > assumed the tank was under a lot of pressure and might have been > leaking a bit.. > > Got the car parked. Nope, DEFINITELY not the problem. Car's leaking > gas from in front of my right rear wheel.. dripping off the underside > of the car, who can tell where exactly. > > I checked under the rear seat, no gas, hell, no fuel lines for that > matter. My car must have been built after they moved the fuel lines > from under the rear seat. I'm assuming this is a clamp issue -- good > assumption? Where are the fuel pumps, anyway? I know one's in the > tank, one would be somewhere else..? Is it possible that the pump is > leaking, or is it pretty much a for-sure that this is the lines leaking > around the clamp? > > I left the car for 30 minutes and came back. Fuel drying, doesn't seem > to be leaking anymore. This makes sense, I wouldn't expect it to leak > with the pump off. > > So a few questions.. am I right in assuming it's probably a clamp? > What clamps (how many) should I replace? how should I go about doing > this?
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Center Console - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 06:38:56 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Center Console Don't trust me, but I think it's: 51 16 8 162 669 - black 51 16 8 162 673 - biege 51 16 8 162 674 - gray --- Robert Exconde <99e36m3@exconde.com> wrote: > Does anyone know the part number for the center console without the armrest > is? I get so sick of the armrest when I driving, and I recently had the > armrest out but it looks goofy without the armret installed. I hate driving > with it on the daily drive, half the time because its the passenger that > wants the armrest, then we fight, and I tell them to get out of the car. =====
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Lifetime Oils - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 09:40:19 -0400 From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Lifetime Oils In a message dated 5/22/2003 7:31:33 AM Eastern Standard Time, 99e36m3@exconde.com writes: > Do people ususally change the diff and trans fluids? I have > 60K on the car Bob, Lifetime, who's lifetime?? I think its been explained many times on this list, do the diff and tranny a favor, change the oils now. Some people love the Redline products and they are very good. I use Mobil 1 products with no complaints. Good luck, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA BSP Champ '01 and '02
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Groove of doom is here - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 10:00:42 -0400 From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Groove of doom is here In a message dated 5/21/2003 12:45:39 PM Eastern Standard Time, jimbassett@attbi.com writes: > However, you should check the tires for what compound they are - apparently > they've got a new compound, or will soon(?). K6A vs. K8A > stamped on the > sidewall of the tire. K6A is the 'new' compound. Not sure yet myself if this compound is actually better??? Time will tell. Getting some rubber 'peeling' between the first and second groove in from the edge. Just a little odd. Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA BSP Champ '01 and '02
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#6. CORRECTION -Euro filter housing w/cooler connection - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 09:08:14 -0400 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: CORRECTION -Euro filter housing w/cooler connection on 5/18/03 10:34 PM, Neil Maller at neil.maller@gte.net wrote: > Potential adopters of this part should be aware that both the Euro E36 M3 and > the E46 M3 engines have internal oil pressure lines to the VANOS, whereas the > US E36 M3 has an external hose. Unless you use a custom oil adapter block - > Rich D, sounds as if that's what you did, right? - then you will also need to > re-drill and tap the housing's M12 oil temp sender port to M14x1.25 to accept > the VANOS oil pressure hose banjo bolt. Note also that since M14x1.25 is an > unusually fine thread, you may have to hunt around for the corresponding tap. > The second sender port, also M12, is correct for the existing E36 oil pressure > warning switch, and need not be modified. > > Neil > 96 M3 OK, my memory, once again revealed to be a faulty instrument, said "M14x1.25," but when I afterward verified the parts in my garage the correct thread is actually ** M14x1.5 **. Sorry for the error. However the comment about this being an unusual tap size stands. Neil 96 M3
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#7. Re: Lifetime Oils - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 10:10:47 -0400 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Lifetime Oils Although my car didn't come from the factory with "lifetime" lubricants in the trans and diff, I would still do the same thing if it did....change them annually. Even though my car is only driven 6-7k miles per year (includes roughly six track days), I think it's a wise decision, and cheap insurance, to replace the oils annually. The lifetime lubricants story is a manufacturer "benefit" to help the owner lower the cost of maintenance. The same applies to changing engine oil according to the SI lights, 100k mile platinum-tipped spark plugs (that don't work as well as copper plugs), etc. The assumption is that the average person will own the car for 3-4 years so, during that time, extended maintenance intervals won't affect the vehicle's performance. The same can't be said for the second or third owner of the vehicle, but by then, the manufacturer doesn't really care. For my 6-7k mile annual driving, I change the engine oil twice, trans/diff oil once, brake fluid twice. Coolant (with distilled water) is changed every two years. Plugs and filters are done per the SI lights (11-15k miles). For my daily driver E34 (~100 miles/day, 90% highway miles), I change the engine oil every 5k miles, rear diff annually, auto trans oil annually (~30k miles), Brake fluid annually, filters and spark plugs per the SI lights. Coolant (with distilled water) is changed annually. All cars use Mobil 1 engine oil. I had been using 10W30, but switched to 15W50 for the M3, as well as the E34. I'll use 10W30 in the E34 for the winter months only (Nov-Mar). The M3 transmission uses Redline D4 ATF, and the diff on both cars uses Redline 75W90 gear oil. BMW coolant is used. Brake fluid is ATE in the M3, Castrol LMA in the E34. All plugs and filters are purchased from BMW. It works for me! Of course, since I do all of this work, the maintenance costs are much lower. Ron Buchalski BMWCCA #76387 1995 E36 M3 1993 E34 525iT 1999 Mazda Miata PS: Years ago, I heard of an oil change philosophy based on hours of use, rather than miles. If I remember correctly, it was said that engine oil should be changed every 100 hours of use. This would apply for a daily driver, not an occasional drive vehicle. Well, based on my daily driver's OBC for Average MPH (40.x), that would indicate 100 hours of use at ~4000 miles. So, changing oil at 5k miles yields around 125 hours of operation between oil changes. >Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 05:08:54 -0500 >From: "Robert Exconde" <99e36m3@exconde.com> >Subject: Lifetime Oils > >Do people ususally change the diff and trans fluids? I have 60K on the car >and the only problem with shifting is when the car is hot either from stop >and go driving or from warm weather. It gets hard to shift into 1, 2, 3 and >then reverse. I have a BBClutch stop set but it seems like the >disengagement >point is changing. Usually it will be fine for an hour in SNG traffic but >in >warm weather usually half an hour. In which case I keep the car in 1st at >the stoplights and sometimes it creeps, which I know is NOT good since I >think it would be essentially the same as slipping the clutch, so I know I >have to adjust the CS again. > >I'm bringing her in to the dealership for the airbag light and I dont have >a >lift to level the car so I may as well have the fluids changed too? > >re--99e36m3 _________________________________________________________________ Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
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#8. RE: Airbag light - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 10:14:31 -0400 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: Airbag light Peake Research does make a reset tool for the airbag light: http://www.peakeresearch.com/srstool.htm Ron Buchalski BMWCCA #76387 1995 E36 M3 1993 E34 525iT 1999 Mazda Miata >Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 05:07:15 -0500 >From: "Robert Exconde" <99e36m3@exconde.com> >Subject: RE: Airbag light > >Sorry about the previous post. I guess it would help to know the model/make >of my friend's car in comparison to mind. My friend had a 95 M3 with a >build >date of around october 94(?) , I'm not sure about the bulid date. and yes, >according to my email address I do have a 99M3, the car is out of warranty. >I bought my M on 8/11/01 used, and I pretty much know the entire service >history, and the car has been in no accidents. > >The reason I had asked is that I have typically seen the airbag light come >on at around 60K on several M3, but I never hung around to see the >explanation or fix, either because I didnt have my M3 yet or I have heard >it >on the web. > >One additional note is that the light had come on when I was installing my >Motorola Phone kit in my car. So I had to remove the center console to >install all the wiring and the modules. So it is very possible the John's >(THANKS!) initial response in saying that it is the buckle switch is >probably correct. > >Is there a way to reset the light to see if the light comes back on? There >is no such thing as a peake reset tool for airbag lights is there? :) Can I >just ask the dealer to reset the light to see if it comes back on? > >I suppose that I Will have to bring it to the dealer soon... > >Robert Exconde >99e36m3 _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Toyo RA1's --> flipping Kumho's - from David Ngo
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Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 07:32:58 -0700 (PDT) From: David Ngo <rudngo@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Toyo RA1's --> flipping Kumho's I agree - the 'care and feeding' doc on Tire Rack's site says that they should always be mounted with the large blocks on the outside. However, even though they have a rotation arrow on the sidewall, the Victoracers can be run in either direction without any problems. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/kumho/ku_victoracer_care.htm Dave --- Jeremy Lucas <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> wrote: > Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 23:02:39 -0400 > From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Toyo RA1's --> flipping Kumho's > > I believe you are mistaken about flipping > Victoracers V700 (unless your > talking about something even older than that). It's > the Ecsta V700 that > can be flipped. __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo. http://search.yahoo.com
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#10. Euro springs fitment on '99 M3 coupe - from Dmitri Zorine
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Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 11:06:16 -0400 From: Dmitri Zorine <dzm3@technologyoasis.com> Subject: Euro springs fitment on '99 M3 coupe I'm considering purchasing a used set of Euro springs (P/N 31 33 2 227 422 and 33 53 9 064 881) for my '99 M3 coupe. However, I found a lot of conflicting info on the part numbers when it came to euro springs. This old post from Wayne : > Fronts: 31-33-2-228-171 (even though I do have a/c, sunroof, etc) - $166.80 > Rears: 33-53-9-069-132 - $168.60 from Nick Alexander And this info on ucc site : http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_techtip/techtips/e36_m3_spring.htm The springs I'm thinking about appear to be Euro '95, but besides the part number I don't see any difference between euro '95 and euro '96+ springs. if anyone has any light into the fitment issues, please let me know. Will I run into problems trying to install these springs on my car or not? Thanks a lot! Dmitri '99 M3 2-dr