E36M3 #3168

Saturday, May 24, 2003 16:46:38

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: [E36M3] Bought used e36 M3, need help with alarm and sound - from Hunt Hodgetts
#2. Re: [E36M3] Bought used e36 M3, need help with alarm and sound - from Ed Yee
#3. RE: Hot lap timer placement - from David Hogg
#4. Re: Was flipping Kumho's - now Flippin' Kumho's! - from David Hogg
#5. Re: [E36M3] Batteries and RSMs - from Mdriver13@aol.com
#6. Re: [E36M3] Euro Springs Fitment (a little bit different question) - from ChuckBrazeau@aol.com
#7. Removing window tint - from Carey Probst
#8. Re: [E36M3] Removing window tint - from ChuckBrazeau@aol.com
#9. Fwd: Re: [E36M3] Removing window tint - from Sam Langley
#10. Re: [E36M3] Euro Springs Fitment (a little bit different question) - from Chris Teague

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#1. Re: [E36M3] Bought used e36 M3, need help with alarm and sound - from Hunt Hodgetts
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Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 21:16:06 -0700 (PDT) From: Hunt Hodgetts <hhodgetts@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bought used e36 M3, need help with alarm and sound >The HK system was not available that I know of until 97? I have a 96 M3 with HK stereo. >it is not much of an improvement either. I concur, it's no better than the factory Alpine system. >The E36 also won the award of the worst stereo of any car produce since 1990. Perhaps the worst German or European car stereo but certainly most domestic car stereos are far worse than the E36's... __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo. http://search.yahoo.com

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#2. Re: [E36M3] Bought used e36 M3, need help with alarm and sound - from Ed Yee
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Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 03:52:52 -0400 From: "Ed Yee" <edyee@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bought used e36 M3, need help with alarm and sound The double lock function can be made to work with most any aftermarket alarm systems. IIRC, this is done by pulsing the lock and unlock signals simultaneously. The lock and unlock signals may be tied together to the lock signal of the alarm if diode protected. I found a write up somewhere on the web, try www.unofficialbmw.com. I think most good shops know about this. Ed ----- Original Message ----- From: <LoweSeaton@aol.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Friday, May 23, 2003 12:55 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bought used e36 M3, need help with alarm and sound > Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 12:50:42 EDT > From: LoweSeaton@aol.com > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bought used e36 M3, need help with alarm and sound > > > Reid, > > No. The fuel door locks and the doors double lock anytime you use the key to > lock the car from outside. You don't have to lock *twice*. Just turn the > key and remove key normally. > > In fact, there is a warning in the owner's manual NOT to lock a child in the > car with the key. You cannot open the doors from inside once you double lock > the door. The child would be trapped. > > The factory alarm double locks if you press the second remote button. It is > a two step process. You have to press the top button to lock, then the middle > button to double lock. > > Lowell Seaton > '95 M3/2 > Dallas, Texas > ------------------------------ > reid@conti.net writes: > > > The fuel door locks with the double lock / alarm arm feature. I can't > > remember for sure, but I think you need to turn the key to lock *twice* > > quickly to get it to lock the fuel door/double-lock the car. Or maybe > > it only does it with the alarm. Just be aware that it doesn't do it > > with the 'standard' locking function. > > > > - reid > > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >

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#3. RE: Hot lap timer placement - from David Hogg
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Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 06:25:49 -0400 From: "David Hogg" <springwood@blazenet.net> Subject: RE: Hot lap timer placement Jason asks "Does anyone have an ingenious place to mount the receiver unit?" Very simple. Attaches to the cage with zip ties at the right rear. ;^) No cage? Oh. It actually sounds like your idea of the headrest post is a good one. Use zip ties and cinch it down tight, then just cut them off when you're done. At your mounting point you have the extra benefit of squishing the headrest back down on the receiver to hold it in place. It doesn't really move around much anyway. Dave Hogg

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#4. Re: Was flipping Kumho's - now Flippin' Kumho's! - from David Hogg
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Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 06:44:08 -0400 From: "David Hogg" <springwood@blazenet.net> Subject: Re: Was flipping Kumho's - now Flippin' Kumho's! Speaking of Kumho's, having used the Victoracers for practice/DE for a couple years I decided to try the Ecsta V700's this season. They definitely stick better. On 235/40 Ecsta's on stock '95 M3 wheels I was within 1.5 sec of my (Summit Point) times on 245/40 Hoosiers on 8.5" Fikse's. That's good. After one Seat Time (five 20-minute sessions) and one day of Trackmasters (five roughly half-hour sessions) they were getting really squirrelly the last two sessions. I figured the pressures were all wrong from ambient temps rising during the day, and I was too lazy to check in the afternoon. NO! Both flippin' left side tires were CORDED! Full 360 degrees, 2-3" wide, with even wear across the tire. That's bad. These are too expensive (cost to wear ratio) for practice tires. Even Hoosiers just fade to street tire performance levels with many cycles. Flippin' Kumho's! Dave Hogg

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#5. Re: [E36M3] Batteries and RSMs - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 11:53:29 EDT From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Batteries and RSMs In a message dated 5/20/03 5:56:55 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jimbassett@attbi.com writes: > On to RSMs. I'm going to need to replace the ones on the M3 soon (again). > Are the E46 ones still the choice for street-only cars? Hi Jim, I believe even for street cars, the JTD or GC RSMs is still the ticket. Of course, if you don't mine changing the RSMs every 30K, then I guess the e46 version will do. Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA BSP Champion '01 & '02

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#6. Re: [E36M3] Euro Springs Fitment (a little bit different question) - from ChuckBrazeau@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 14:06:15 EDT From: ChuckBrazeau@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Euro Springs Fitment (a little bit different question) Here's a twist to a dead horse topic... ;-) Regarding the '95 Euro M3-GT/US M3-LTW springs (which i believe are 422/881) raising the front of the car 1/4" to 1/2". What would cutting half a coil off of each front spring (to lower the car back down to stock height) do to the rates of these springs? I purchased this set about 6 months ago (believing that they would lower my car 1/2" all around). The rear came down 1/4", but the front went UP 1/2". I drove around for about 3 weeks, hoping that it would settle down to AT LEAST stock height, but every time i checked it, it seemed to go up another 1/8"! LOL I'd read all the disscussion on the 171/172's, but thought that since those were all for the '96's and up, then i wouldn't be affected by the problem since i was going with the 422's on a '95 (wrong!). It's funny because, side by side next to my stock springs, the 422's were about an inch shorter, but they still raised the car up. So... i made a bold move and took the front springs back out, cut exactly one half of a coil off each one, and reinstalled them (the top spring hat swivels 360, so they went back in with no problem). This brought it back down to factory ride height (or at least where it was before installing them in the first place), and i've been pretty happy with the ride quality. It feels stiffer than stock, but not night and day, and it's not bone-jarring... even with my trimmed bumpstop Bilsteins. :-P But... i was wondering if this half a coil would drastically change the rates of the front springs? Chuck Brazeau '95 BMW M3 - Violet on Black SCCA Solo2 - Street Modified #95 <A HREF="http://www.brazeauracing.com/">http://www.brazeauracing.com/</A>

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#7. Removing window tint - from Carey Probst
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Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 14:12:30 -0400 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: Removing window tint The PO of the 325e I'm turning into a track car tinted the rear windows and it is cracked and looks terrible. Is there an easy way to remove the tint? Razor blade, solvent, ? TIA Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, '86 325e w/i cam BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters JC CAIed and Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed.

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#8. Re: [E36M3] Removing window tint - from ChuckBrazeau@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 14:44:16 EDT From: ChuckBrazeau@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Removing window tint Once you peel the film off, it leaves all it's adhesive on the window. I tried carb-n-choke cleaner, brake cleaner, etc. (previous car), but what works is plain ol' rubbing alcohol. Still takes a little elbow grease, but rubbing alcohol removes the adhesive pretty easily. YMMV Chuck Brazeau '95 BMW M3 - Violet on Black SCCA Solo2 - Street Modified #95 <A HREF="http://www.brazeauracing.com/">http://www.brazeauracing.com/</A> In a message dated 05/24/2003 1:21:44 PM Central Daylight Time, hcprobst@alum.mit.edu writes: > The PO of the 325e I'm turning into a track car tinted the rear windows and > it is cracked and looks terrible. > > Is there an easy way to remove the tint? > > Razor blade, solvent, ?

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#9. Fwd: Re: [E36M3] Removing window tint - from Sam Langley
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Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 16:18:39 -0400 From: Sam Langley <samrl@triad.rr.com> Subject: Fwd: Re: [E36M3] Removing window tint Get some high concentrate ammonia, it will peel it right off sam >In a message dated 05/24/2003 1:21:44 PM Central Daylight Time, >hcprobst@alum.mit.edu writes: > > > > The PO of the 325e I'm turning into a track car tinted the rear windows and > > it is cracked and looks terrible. > > > > Is there an easy way to remove the tint? > > > > Razor blade, solvent, ? > > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: >Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >*************************************************

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#10. Re: [E36M3] Euro Springs Fitment (a little bit different question) - from Chris Teague
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Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 14:45:04 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Euro Springs Fitment (a little bit different question) Chuck, Cutting a coil would increase the spring rate. I think the spring rate formula is linear to number of coils, so IIRC, 0.5/# of coils would be the percent increase. So that's probably a good setup. Cutting with a grinder is better than a torch, so as not to affect the heat treat of the spring. Chris 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- From: <ChuckBrazeau@aol.com> > ... What would cutting half a coil off > of each front spring (to lower the car back down to stock height) do to the > rates of these springs? .... > Chuck Brazeau

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