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#1. RE: [E36M3] Shark Inj Input - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 20:12:38 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Shark Inj Input At 07:55 PM 5/27/03, Dames, Mark wrote: >Ich habe das . . . sorry, I have the inkling to try the Shark Injector >software for my '98, California gassed (91 octane) M3. I'm interested in >feedback from you 91 Octane, MTBE, PG&E/Enron subsidizing, consumers out >there as to whether the change was a benefit or detriment to the car for >road driving and track driving with normal (non-race) gas. I'm interested in >getting the software if it gives a noticeable increase in power, I'm not >interested if it makes the car ping. Your tales and lore on the subject >appreciated. Well, I've had the M3 Sharked for about as long as I've had it (4-1/2 years), and I would recommend it, even with he crappy CA gas. I tracked the car heavily with the "old" 92 octane and had no problems whatsoever. Occasionally now with the crap-91 I get a bit of pinging, usually at WOT in warm or hot conditions. For your basic daily-driving there's no real problems. The car will have more power and more torque, yes, but the main thing (esp. for a daily-driver) is the drivability of JimC's SW. The power delivery is smoother and the abrupt fuel cut-off at low speeds when you lift off the throttle is gone. Makes stop-n-go driving much more pleasant. If you do get Sharked and you do track the car, I would highly recommend you put in a few gallons of 100 (or other higher octane fuel) at the track. For running hard at the track, especially in warm/hot conditions, you'll need the higher octane. I do this on the race car which also gets driven to/from the track. If you want to test-drive a fully-Sharked car (SW and intake), let me know. Hope that helps, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - Sharked since nearly Day 1 1993 325is #44 JP/A5 - ditto
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#2. RE: [E36M3] Techie advice - from Dames, Mark
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Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 20:20:52 -0700 From: "Dames, Mark" <Mark.Dames@PDO.Co.Santa-Clara.CA.US> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Techie advice Can you folks share with me how you create those links to show your digital photos of repairs, wheels for sale, trophy bass, etc? Do you have to have your own website to do this, and if so how do you get one and how do you put photos on it? I don't own or work in a dot com, and don't know squat about this stuff, so humor me with some basics. I do have an AOL account. TIA mark
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#3. RE: Hoosiers (was: Flippin Kumhos) - from BOOM,BILL (HP-Roseville,ex1)
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Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 20:26:04 -0700 From: "BOOM,BILL (HP-Roseville,ex1)" <bill.boom@hp.com> Subject: RE: Hoosiers (was: Flippin Kumhos) > > ...IMO they're not worth the 1-2 sec/lap over > > the Kumhos they got me. > > > > - Bill > > Clearly you don't race! > > Dan Snyder Either that, or my budget is not infinite. ;-) - Bill
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Re: lower shock mount -- oh crap - from Zack Steinkamp
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Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 22:11:13 -0700 (PDT) From: Zack Steinkamp <edsarkiss@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: lower shock mount -- oh crap is this one of the cases where Bentley is wrong? http://nobot.2y.net/m3/bentley-rear-shock.jpg the excellent instructions at: http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/H&R%20COILOVER%20INSTALL%202.0.pdf also spec 77nm (well, 57 ft lb). -zs --- Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> wrote: > I'm gonna get a kick outta this... Uh...you do know > that that bolt is supposed > to be torqued to 100Nm, right? :) > > Chester > > --- Zack Steinkamp <edsarkiss@yahoo.com> wrote: > > put the rear on ramps, put a small floor jack > under > > the shock, remove bolt, rotate, install bolt, > torque > > to 77nm, repeat for other side, test drive, check > > torque, test drive phase II, dinner ;-). > > > ===== >
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#5. RE: [E36M3] Techie advice - from Zack Steinkamp
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Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 22:32:34 -0700 (PDT) From: Zack Steinkamp <edsarkiss@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Techie advice hey mark ;-) as you probably know, i'm a little on the nerdy side. i have a webserver running here at home (http://nobot.2y.net/) that is turned on and connected to the internet all the time. to post a photo online, i just put it on the server, and send out the url. other ways to do this are: - use a free Yahoo! GeoCities account. (hahaha -- you know i'm biased here ;-) http://geocities.yahoo.com/ gives you enough space for all the photos of your car you should need. they have simple tools for uploading pictures to your account, but unless you pay $4.95 per month, there will be ads on your pages. - if you want to just do photos, check out http://photos.yahoo.com/ -- again, free -- again, biased ;-) - you could also search yahoo! (bias? no!) for "free web hosting" - doesn't AOL offer web space to its users? i guess that would be the easiest way to go if it's the case. because of my bias, i'm not allowed to investigate this further ;-) let me know if you have more questions -- i'm happy to help. zs --- "Dames, Mark" <Mark.Dames@PDO.Co.Santa-Clara.CA.US> wrote: > Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 20:20:52 -0700 > From: "Dames, Mark" > <Mark.Dames@PDO.Co.Santa-Clara.CA.US> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Techie advice > > > Can you folks share with me how you create those > links to show your digital > photos of repairs, wheels for sale, trophy bass, > etc? Do you have to have > your own website to do this, and if so how do you > get one and how do you put > photos on it? > > I don't own or work in a dot com, and don't know > squat about this stuff, so > humor me with some basics. I do have an AOL account. > > > TIA > > mark > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#6. One touch vent windows (LONG) - from John Firestone
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Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 10:26:18 +0200 (CEST) From: John Firestone <john.firestone@nord-com.net> Subject: One touch vent windows (LONG) A tolerable few have asked about adding electric rear vent windows and making them one-touch. Doing a search on Google for "e36 power rear vent windows" found several write ups about adding them. I was pretty impressed. They would have been very nice to have seven years ago! I noticed that all repeated, verbatim, a parts list I had sent out some years back. Only one author bothered to credit its source, I believe, after some gentle prodding from me. For most people, adding electric vent windows as an only project is probably a little too much bother than they are worth. They require laying a harness under the driver's side carpet and that first means removing a lot of things on top and next to it. This is tedious. If you have to get under the carpet anyway, for example, to improve the sound system, then adding electric vent windows is probably not a great deal more work. I added mine while I was restoring the rear fog lights. I can, in any case, highly recommend laying extra wires from the dash to the trunk the next time the carpet is up. This just may push back the evil day when you have to lift it again. I laid an 11 x 0.75 mm^2 cable the last time around, which was about the biggest that seemed to fit in the raceways. I didn't need 11 more wires at the time - only one - but within a week I was already using another. While BMW NA liked to tout the extra ventilation they gave compared to the sealed windows of the competition, I found the rear vent windows they sold me - without electric motors - were usually too much trouble to use. It wasn't often that I could stop the car and step into the back seat to open and close them. They only really came into their own after I had added the motors and could open and close them from the center console. Unfortunately, I had to disable them a few years back when I arranged to close the windows and sunroof by remote control. I wasn't sure how many times the motors could twist at the hinges, as the ZKE was trying to close the sunroof, before they self-destructed. By the way, I found if I pull Fuse F13 and press one of the rear vent windows buttons, the sunroof will close - an amusing side effect of mixing switch and relay control with active-low, solid-state logic. After seven years of use and non-use, I also found the windows were sticking and lurching as the motors drove them open and closed. A little Molybdenum DiSulfide (MoS2) on the window latch window glass hinges worked wonders. I bet a little graphite would also work. Even with electric motors, I found the rear vent windows could have been more convenient. It takes at least 8 seconds to fully open or close one window. Two windows took more than 16 - if you only used one hand. That is a long time pressing window switches. I decided to put both windows on one switch and make them one-touch: to let me push and forget, to protect the motors, and to free up a switch position for a central window/sunroof switch. I started with a couple Autoloc WC-1000 one-touch window modules - which apparently can drive hefty, American power windows - and modified them to drive geared-down, Swiss sewing machine motors. I made the stall detector 20 times more sensitivity (so that it would actually work), increased the stall delay by 4 times (to let the motor unlatch its window), and extended the motor run timeout by 50% (to allow the window to fully open and close). To protect the modified modules and the smaller motors, I replaced the 20A supply fuses with 3A fuses. It was no problem figuring out how to do this with the charmingly old-fashioned modules I had bought. They used the same 4000-series CMOS I remember from the 1970's. This made me feel so nostalgic, I tried my hand at another discrete-logic design. I came up with an improved circuit requiring one more IC but fewer and more reliable parts. I mounted the window modules on the left trunk wall behind the fabric and rear of the audio power amplifier, and ran a wire to the comfort relay for power. The amplifier was a tempting alternative except that I like is to electrically distance motors from signal circuits. To work around a software issue in the central module (ZKE), I ran another wire to supply standby power - through a resistor to minimize battery drain should a window module fail. I am not sure if I should give more exact details as Hoffman Automotive Accessories (1-800-873-4038) may have updated their modules. However, if someone is willing to buy a WC-1000 window control unit, disassemble it, and send me a picture of its circuit board, I would be willing to take a look and see if my changes might still work. Alternatively, I have the circuit I designed, if anyone wants to see if I can still do discrete logic design a couple decades later. That's probably more than anyone wanted to read about vent windows so I shall end here! -John '96 318is
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Re: lower shock mount -- oh crap - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 04:08:20 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: lower shock mount -- oh crap Well, I'm going off of what the TIS specifies. Actually, I just looked and there are two measurements for the E36: 77Nm and 100Nm with no way to distinguish between the two. Go figure. Chester --- Zack Steinkamp <edsarkiss@yahoo.com> wrote: > Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 22:11:13 -0700 (PDT) > From: Zack Steinkamp <edsarkiss@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: lower shock mount -- oh crap > > is this one of the cases where Bentley is wrong? > http://nobot.2y.net/m3/bentley-rear-shock.jpg > > the excellent instructions at: > > http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/H&R%20COILOVER%20INSTALL%202.0.pdf > also spec 77nm (well, 57 ft lb). > > -zs > > > --- Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> wrote: > > I'm gonna get a kick outta this... Uh...you do know > > that that bolt is supposed > > to be torqued to 100Nm, right? :) > > > > Chester > > > > --- Zack Steinkamp <edsarkiss@yahoo.com> wrote: > > > put the rear on ramps, put a small floor jack > > under > > > the shock, remove bolt, rotate, install bolt, > > torque > > > to 77nm, repeat for other side, test drive, check > > > torque, test drive phase II, dinner ;-). > > > > > > ===== > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > =====
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#8. Power Window Problem - from Tom Melton
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Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 07:51:50 -0400 From: "Tom Melton" <tom_melton@emoryhealthcare.org> Subject: Power Window Problem I plan to actually diagnose this tonight, but when entering the parking garage at work this morning, rolled the driver window down, swiped the card, hit the up button (have to hold - one touch not work correctly) and the window goes up about ½ way and stops. Will not go up, or down. Passenger window is still working fine. I checked, and it appears both use same fuse, so not a fuse issue. What is it most likely - switch or motor? Thanks in advance.. Tom Melton 95 M3
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#9. Service lights disappearing FAST! - from Karrgi@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 08:04:59 EDT From: Karrgi@aol.com Subject: Service lights disappearing FAST! I changed the oil in my 98 M3/4 in late March with 30,200 mi and rest the service lights. I now have 31,300 miles and two lights are out! This a lttle over 500 miles a light. My past experience is 1200-1600 miles per light. I do not rely on the lights to determine when to do service, but wonder why they would be going out so quickly now. I have not been to the track and have done only normal (normally spirited!) street driving. Any thoughts? Steve
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#10. Re: [E36M3] What the heck...? - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 06:34:04 -0700 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] What the heck...? Could very well be the alternator. If the output voltage gets too low, things start going whacky. Not sure why it won't start though. Unless the battery is low or bad. When my alternator went out, I was driving to the dealer (35 miles). I had all accessories turned off. The odometer lights kept getting dimmer as the battery wore down. The car finally just shut down. Not enough juice to run the fuel pump. Bummer, I was on the off ramp of the freeway less than a mile from the dealer. Tow truck time. Jay At 05:25 PM 5/27/03 -0500, you wrote: >Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 15:17:27 -0700 >From: Juan Rico <juan_rico@captionsinc.com> >Subject: What the heck...? > > >Yesterday on my way to the airport my ABS light comes on, my car's RPM's go >wild a couple of times, but otherwise the car is running fine. > >Park the car at the airport and when I go to start it, it's completely >dead-no service lights, no click, nothing, nada. > >Get a jump start, drive home, ABS light still on, park it. Turn the key >again and nada. Completely dead. > >The battery was replaced a year ago. The light indicator on the battery >still shows a healthy green. > >Anybody else had this happen? Any ideas? Is this the alternator? Would the >car run though if the alternator was bad? > >I'm hoping this is not a DME issue otherwise I'm fu#@#$%... I'm thinking the >ABS light is just an electric glitch, > >since my ABS seemed to be working fine... ;) > > > >After spending 5K so far this year on the car, I'm on the verge of leasing a >Z06. I've had it with this damn car. > >Engine, transmission and differential are impeccable. Everything else is >falling to pieces or slowly failing... > > > >Juan. > > > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: >Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > >