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#1. RE: [E36M3] Floating Rotor thickness when new? - from nabli
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Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 10:28:59 -0400 From: "nabli" <nabli@earthlink.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Floating Rotor thickness when new? 28mm when new 26.4 is minimum thickness which should also be stamped somewhere on the shell. Cheers, Jim E. -----Original Message----- From: KLchmn@aol.com [mailto:KLchmn@aol.com] Sent: Friday, May 30, 2003 10:13 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Floating Rotor thickness when new? Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 10:10:39 -0400 From: KLchmn@aol.com Subject: Floating Rotor thickness when new? I was in a hurry getting ready for a race and didn't measure the thickness of a new set of floating rotors prior to my race. I'm running new Hawk pads and wanted to see how the rotor wear was so I need the thickness of a new rotor. Anyone have it? Thanks, Kirk Lachman Sin City Chapter '95 M3 #21 I-stock ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#2. Re: rotor thickness - from russell
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Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 07:38:51 -0700 (PDT) From: russell <driver8m3@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: rotor thickness i'm preparing to change my pads in the next few days. whats the general lifespan of stock m3 rotors with the stock pads? no track use, just a few highspeed stops now and then. thanks, russell dakar 99, 78k miles > -------------------- 10 -------------------- > Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 10:10:39 -0400 > From: KLchmn@aol.com > Subject: Floating Rotor thickness when new? > > I was in a hurry getting ready for a race and didn't measure the > thickness of a new set of floating rotors prior to my race. > > I'm running new Hawk pads and wanted to see how the rotor wear was so I > need the thickness of a new rotor. > > Anyone have it? > > Thanks, > > Kirk Lachman > Sin City Chapter > '95 M3 #21 I-stock > > > > -------------------- 11 -------------------- > Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 10:11:46 -0400 > From: KLchmn@aol.com > Subject: Update: rotor thickness > > I forgot to mention, it wasn't a BMW CCA Club Race, so all of you who > were typing "you cheater" can holster your keyboards... > > Kirk ===== "democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote."-ben franklin __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM). http://calendar.yahoo.com
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#3. Re: GrpN or other race spring rates? - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 10:51:24 -0400 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: GrpN or other race spring rates? Rob, The Group N springs (now discontinued) were "approximately" 425lbs front and 675 rears. H&R made springs (stiffer than their current 'Race springs which are rated at 325F, 515R') for the Group G series as well (also discontinued). There are 2 places that I know you can get equivalent springs. a) Turner sells what they call "I Stock Springs". Cost about $450 a set (as stiff as the Group N, few friends ran them in H Stock and liked them a lot) b) Strictly German was selling LTW springs on ebay (a week ago). These are not your regular LTW springs; I believe they are the PPG springs and are as similar to the Group Ns. You can pick them up for under $150. Ahmad Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 22:33:43 -0600 From: "Rob" <speedmaster@telus.net> Subject: GrpN or other race spring rates? Does anyone know the spring rates for the E36 M3 Motorsport Grp. N race springs? Are there other Motorsport springs produced that have high spring rates? How would a person go about getting some? TIA, Rob
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#4. On Board Computer/Radiator question - from Newman, Christopher
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Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 11:23:44 -0400 From: "Newman, Christopher" <CNewman@LSAC.org> Subject: On Board Computer/Radiator question Good morning, Normally, whenever I start or turn off my 1996 M3, I hear a sound I believe to be the On Board Computer booting up or shutting down. If I hear this sound after starting the car, I can push the "up arrow" button and the temperature and fan speed lights will come on in the computer display and air flows from the vents. However, over the past month or two, when I start the car, I sometimes hear the sound and sometimes do NOT. When I do NOT hear the sound, if I push the "up arrow" button, nothing happens. The computer display is completely blank and NO air flows from the vents. And if I do NOT hear the sound and then turn the car off, I hear a dull whirring sound from the engine bay similar to shutting off a vacuum cleaner. I'm guessing this whirring sound is from the radiator but I'm not sure. The temperature gauge behaves normally regardless of whether the OBC is functioning or not (needle straight up or cooler). Whether I hear the OBC sound or not seems pretty random, but after a while, I do eventually hear it and the OBC does function again. From things I've read on this list and elsewhere, I just figured it was a loose connection or solder joint issue with the OBC. BUT last night, when I turned the car off and removed the key, I did NOT hear the OBC shut down, nor did I hear the whirring sound, but I heard the radiator still running. I opened the hood and the fan was not spinning fast, but was ticking slowly like the second hand of a watch. I restarted the car, drove around the block, and then shut the car off. This time the radiator did NOT continue to run. When I drove the car this morning and then turned it off, the radiator did NOT continue to run. The OBC and radiator both shut down properly. Has anyone else experienced these symptoms ? Are these signs of a pending radiator problem, or some other problem ? Any/all comments are greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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#5. Re: Vanos question - from John B
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Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 08:25:14 -0700 (PDT) From: John B <john0990@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Vanos question I only knew my vanos went bad when I had the car dynoed. Wasn't making any funny sounds or anything. You could see a huge dip in torque at the about the 5000-5500 rpm mark, where the vanos comes in. New vanos and timing chain tensioner fixed the problem. >>>How would I know if my vanos unit on my '95 isn't working correctly?<<< __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM). http://calendar.yahoo.com
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#6. Dead Car / Trunk Lock - from Mike Frank
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Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 10:40:25 -0500 From: Mike Frank <mfrank28@comcast.net> Subject: Dead Car / Trunk Lock My car was dead when I went out to it this morning. I think I may have left the overhead light on. Oops. For some reason I can't even get the key in the lock on the trunk to check the battery/connections. Has anyone experienced this before? The car was locked using the alarm. I've killed the car before but I don't recall this happening. Please tell me this isn't a "feature". I can always jump the car or check the battery from the underhood terminals, but this trunk lock is a pain. Also, is there an easy way to unlatch the trunk from the inside? Any help much appreciated. Mike Frank 97 M3
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#7. Re: [E36M3] On Board Computer/Radiator question - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 09:25:39 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] On Board Computer/Radiator question At 08:33 AM 5/30/03, Newman, Christopher wrote: >Good morning, >Normally, whenever I start or turn off my 1996 M3, I hear a sound I believe >to be the On Board Computer booting up or shutting down. >If I hear this sound after starting the car, I can push the "up arrow" >button and the temperature and fan speed lights will come on in >the computer display and air flows from the vents. I'm a bit confused, are you talking about the On Board Computer or the ventilation system? They are two different items. And BTW, there are no moving parts AFAIK in the OBC, so what you are most likely hearing is the ventilation system cycling vents, etc. It does that occasionally after the car has been turned off. It's normal. >However, over the past month or two, when I start the car, I sometimes hear >the sound and sometimes do NOT. >When I do NOT hear the sound, if I push the "up arrow" button, nothing >happens. >The computer display is completely blank and NO air flows from the vents. >And if I do NOT hear the sound and then turn the car off, I hear a dull >whirring sound from the engine bay similar to shutting off a vacuum cleaner. >I'm guessing this whirring sound is from the radiator but I'm not sure. The >temperature gauge behaves normally regardless of whether the OBC is >functioning or not (needle straight up or cooler). Whether I hear the OBC >sound or not seems pretty random, but after a while, I do eventually hear it > >and the OBC does function again. From things I've read on this list and >elsewhere, I just figured it was a loose connection or solder joint issue >with >the OBC. Again, you're confusing the OBC (with the outside temp, range, consumption, etc buttons) and the HVAC controls. I'm not sure, but it sounds like the HVAC control unit might need to be replaced? I know others have had to replace theirs for various reasons, so it's possible. >BUT last night, when I turned the car off and removed the key, I did NOT >hear the OBC shut down, nor did I hear the whirring sound, but I >heard the radiator still running. I opened the hood and the fan was not >spinning fast, but was ticking slowly like the second hand of a watch. >I restarted the car, drove around the block, and then shut the car off. >This time the radiator did NOT continue to run. >When I drove the car this morning and then turned it off, the radiator did >NOT continue to run. The OBC and radiator both shut down properly. Which fan are we talking about, the one behind the radiator or the one in front of it? The one behind is attached to the water pump and shouldn't necessarily be moving after the car is shut off but I guess it can due to it's own inertia - it'll spin freely if you move it by hand. The one in front of the radiator is an electrically-controlled fan, and also may have some residual motion after the car is turned off. Sounds fairly normal. I hope that helps. I'm sure someone will chime in if I've made any errors in my diagnosis :-) Jim Bassett
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#8. Re: GrpN or other race spring rates? - from m3ltw@msn.com
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Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 09:55:35 -0700 From: m3ltw@msn.com Subject: Re: GrpN or other race spring rates? > Wrom: FJMVRESKPNKMBIPBARHDMNNSKVFVW > Subject: GrpN or other race spring rates? > > Does anyone know the spring rates for the E36 M3 Motorsport Grp. N race > springs? Are there other Motorsport springs produced that have high spring > rates? How would a person go about getting some? The Grp N suspension can come with any variety of springs, and originally was supplied with 3 different springs (at least if you bought it via PTG in the late 90s) that ranged from something like 1,200-1,600 lbs. (220, 240, 260). But that is just my memory. Almost anyone has springs that will fit, in a wide variety of sizes, shapes, etc. If anyone wants to buy a Grp N suspension (9 position adj shocks), I'll sell mine for $900 with Turner adj camber plates. They are valved to run 750/900 lbs springs (fr/rr). Dan Snyder
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#9. RE: [E36M3] On Board Computer/Radiator question - from Newman, Christopher
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Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 13:14:19 -0400 From: "Newman, Christopher" <CNewman@LSAC.org> Subject: RE: [E36M3] On Board Computer/Radiator question To clarify, yes, I am referring to the ventilation system (HVAC), NOT the computer that indicates outside temp, range, consumption. What you say is the cycling of vents does make sense, and I have always taken the sound to be normal. What's not normal is that I hear it sometimes and not others, so you might be right that the HVAC control unit is faulty. If that's the case, what kind of repair costs am I looking at ? As far as the fan goes, I am referring to the one behind the radiator (i.e. it's further away from the front bumper). I agree there could be some residual motion, but what I saw didn't look like a fan that was slowly coming to a halt. It looked like it was still under power, slowly ticking itself around. And what really concerned me was the noise coming from the radiator even after the car was totally off. I have never turned the car off before and heard any noise from under the hood other than crackling due to the engine cooling off. Jim: Thank you very much for your reply. Hopefully the clarifications I provided will enable you and others to help further troubleshoot this. Thanks again. > -----Original Message----- > From: Jim Bassett [SMTP:jimbassett@attbi.com] > Sent: Friday, May 30, 2003 12:26 PM > To: Newman, Christopher; E36M3 > Subject: Re: [E36M3] On Board Computer/Radiator question > > At 08:33 AM 5/30/03, Newman, Christopher wrote: > >Good morning, > >Normally, whenever I start or turn off my 1996 M3, I hear a sound I > believe > >to be the On Board Computer booting up or shutting down. > >If I hear this sound after starting the car, I can push the "up arrow" > >button and the temperature and fan speed lights will come on in > >the computer display and air flows from the vents. > > I'm a bit confused, are you talking about the On Board Computer or the > ventilation system? They are two different items. > > And BTW, there are no moving parts AFAIK in the OBC, so what you are most > likely hearing is the ventilation system cycling vents, etc. It does that > occasionally after the car has been turned off. It's normal. > > >However, over the past month or two, when I start the car, I sometimes > hear > >the sound and sometimes do NOT. > >When I do NOT hear the sound, if I push the "up arrow" button, nothing > >happens. > >The computer display is completely blank and NO air flows from the vents. > >And if I do NOT hear the sound and then turn the car off, I hear a dull > >whirring sound from the engine bay similar to shutting off a vacuum > cleaner. > >I'm guessing this whirring sound is from the radiator but I'm not sure. > The > >temperature gauge behaves normally regardless of whether the OBC is > >functioning or not (needle straight up or cooler). Whether I hear the > OBC > >sound or not seems pretty random, but after a while, I do eventually hear > it > > > >and the OBC does function again. From things I've read on this list and > >elsewhere, I just figured it was a loose connection or solder joint issue > >with > >the OBC. > > Again, you're confusing the OBC (with the outside temp, range, > consumption, > etc buttons) and the HVAC controls. I'm not sure, but it sounds like the > HVAC control unit might need to be replaced? I know others have had to > replace theirs for various reasons, so it's possible. > > >BUT last night, when I turned the car off and removed the key, I did NOT > >hear the OBC shut down, nor did I hear the whirring sound, but I > >heard the radiator still running. I opened the hood and the fan was not > >spinning fast, but was ticking slowly like the second hand of a watch. > >I restarted the car, drove around the block, and then shut the car off. > >This time the radiator did NOT continue to run. > >When I drove the car this morning and then turned it off, the radiator > did > >NOT continue to run. The OBC and radiator both shut down properly. > > Which fan are we talking about, the one behind the radiator or the one in > front of it? The one behind is attached to the water pump and shouldn't > necessarily be moving after the car is shut off but I guess it can due to > it's own inertia - it'll spin freely if you move it by hand. The one in > front of the radiator is an electrically-controlled fan, and also may have > > some residual motion after the car is turned off. Sounds fairly normal. > > I hope that helps. I'm sure someone will chime in if I've made any errors > in my diagnosis :-) > > Jim Bassett
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#10. RE: [E36M3] On Board Computer/Radiator question - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 10:34:04 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] On Board Computer/Radiator question <html> At 10:14 AM 5/30/03, Newman, Christopher wrote:<br><br> <blockquote type=cite class=cite cite><font face="Arial, Helvetica" size=2 color="#0000FF">To clarify, yes, I am referring to the ventilation system (HVAC), NOT the computer that indicates outside temp, range, consumption. <br> </font><br> <font face="Arial, Helvetica" size=2 color="#0000FF">What you say is the cycling of vents does make sense, and I have always taken the sound to be normal. </font><br> <font face="Arial, Helvetica" size=2 color="#0000FF">What's not normal is that I hear it sometimes and not others, so you might be right that the HVAC control unit is faulty. </font></blockquote><br> It might be, but I'm pretty sure that the HVAC will cycle at some times and not others. So hearing it one time and not at another time isn't necessarily indicative of a problem.<br><br> <blockquote type=cite class=cite cite><font face="Arial, Helvetica" size=2 color="#0000FF">As far as the fan goes, I am referring to the one behind the radiator (i.e. it's further away from the front bumper).</font> <br> <font face="Arial, Helvetica" size=2 color="#0000FF">I agree there could be some residual motion, but what I saw didn't look like a fan that was slowly coming to a halt.</font> <br> <font face="Arial, Helvetica" size=2 color="#0000FF">It looked like it was still under power, slowly ticking itself around.</font> <br> <font face="Arial, Helvetica" size=2 color="#0000FF">And what really concerned me was the noise coming from the radiator even after the car was totally off. I have never turned the car off before and heard<br> </font><br> <font face="Arial, Helvetica" size=2 color="#0000FF">any noise from under the hood other than crackling due to the engine cooling off.</font></blockquote><br> I know it's hard over email, but can you describe the sound?<br><br> In any event, does the car run hot or overheat at all? My only thought is that there might be a problem with the water pump. I seem to recall that the plastic-impeller ones were replaced with metal sometime in 1996, so it's possible that you have a plastic one, and we all know those are prone to failure quite regularly.<br><br> Check around the radiator & fan to see if there's any dry green-color residue. If there is, it might be an indication that there is a leak in the coolant system.<br><br> That's about all I have right now.<br><br> Jim Bassett<br> </html>