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#1. OT?: E30 325e Emissions Question - from Paci, Noah
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Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 16:23:31 -0400 From: "Paci, Noah" <npaci@rr.com> Subject: OT?: E30 325e Emissions Question Ok it's emissions time for the stable of cars around my house these days, and the recently adopted beater 87 325e (125K miles)is giving me some trouble and the old Virginia DMV. Here is what is happening... They do two tests here in Virginia, both on rollers, one at 15mph and another at 25 mph. 15MPH Limit My Values HC ppm 130 190 CO% 0.73 0.44 NO ppm 1010 1051(FAIL) 25MPH Limit My Values HC ppm 126 229 (FAIL) CO% 0.77 4.56!!(FAIL) NO ppm 919 622 So I have failed twice, my numbers before making any changes were slightly higher but not much more. Between the first failure and the second, I ran a tank of gas with "Guaranteed To Pass" fuel injector cleaner. If you read the guarantee, you will soon realize that the word guaranteed should be quoted on the box, as you will never get a nickel out of them, that of course is a side bar. I also changed the spark plugs to some bosch platinums from the AC Delco's that were in there before, the plugs all looked pretty good, they did have some light carbon build up on the lip, but the sparking part all looked clean and that nice marshmallow color that they are supposed to be. Additionally, I have a surge that occurs when driving this car. When driving at various throttle positions(including full throttle) the car will surge to various degrees, the feeling is one of the power being momentarily cut, and then returning very quickly. There is never fear the car will stall, and the RPM drop is no more than 50-150 as far as I can tell. My current thoughts of POTENTIAL fixes is getting longer and longer. Fuel Pressure Regulator acting up Fuel Filter clogged Oxygen Sensor(although I doubt this because still surges at full throttle) Fuel Injector Problem Catalytic Converts gone bad(that would potentially be a death knell for the car due to $$$ reasons) Distributor Cap worn out Timing is out-Timing belt is due right about now. There are some electrical gremlins, perhaps weak or missing spark giving an intermittent misfire. I noticed last night that when I step on the brakes, the indicator light for the left turn signal glows faintly. Also when the headlights are on, the left turn signal blinks slower than normal. Can you tell I got this car for $600? It is a beater, a fun beater, but a beater none the less.
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#2. Re: [E36M3] OT?: E30 325e Emissions Question - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 16:47:07 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] OT?: E30 325e Emissions Question Noah, Replace the catalytic converter. The whole point of the catalytic converter is to reduce emissions. Make sure it is doing it's job. A 16 yr old/125,000 mile catalytic converter is almost sure to be bad. Theoretically a cat should last forever but they can get "cogged" if the engine burns oil or ingests antifreeze. Probably running a car out of tune for a long period will foul the cat too. You can probably find a cheap catalytic converter. I would not go to the dealer for a BMW original cat. Good luck. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 Dallas, Texas
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#3. Re: [E36M3] OT?: E30 325e Emissions Question - from Alain van der Heide
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Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 15:20:57 -0500 From: "Alain van der Heide" <ajvdh1@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] OT?: E30 325e Emissions Question Running rich for extended periods *will* foul your cat. - Alain (found this out personally. Not with the M3) ----- Original Message ----- From: <LoweSeaton@aol.com> > Noah, > > Replace the catalytic converter. The whole point of the catalytic converter > is to reduce emissions. Make sure it is doing it's job. A 16 yr old/125,000 > mile catalytic converter is almost sure to be bad. Theoretically a cat should > last forever but they can get "cogged" if the engine burns oil or ingests > antifreeze. Probably running a car out of tune for a long period will foul the > cat too. You can probably find a cheap catalytic converter. I would not go to > the dealer for a BMW original cat. Good luck. > > Lowell Seaton > '95 M3 > Dallas, Texas > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#4. 225/45-17 Conti Tires.... - from Jason \(RaceBro\)
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Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 15:55:37 -0700 From: "Jason \(RaceBro\)" <racebro@santacruzbicycles.com> Subject: 225/45-17 Conti Tires.... I promise not to waste too much more bandwidth, but I'm still in need of a pair of used (5/32nds or better) Conti Contact Sports in 225/45-17 for my track wheelset. I'm willing to consider 235's (for 8" rims) at this point too. If you have some or know of some please contact me off list. Thanks. Jason Lombard Santa Cruz Bicycles, Inc. jason@santacruzbicycles.com (831)459-7560 x 30 http://www.santacruzbicycles.com ---
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#5. RE: RE: [E36M3] Re: GrpN or other race spring rates? - from Murray Roblin
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Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 16:10:47 -0700 From: "Murray Roblin" <murray@farleyroblin.com> Subject: RE: RE: [E36M3] Re: GrpN or other race spring rates? They were advertised on ebay as Genuine BMW LTW springs - I was expecting the stock OEM ones, but these are apparently a stiffer race spring; no good for my daily driver. > -----Original Message----- > From: cteague@cox.net [mailto:cteague@cox.net] > Sent: Friday, May 30, 2003 3:06 PM > To: Murray Roblin > Subject: Re: RE: [E36M3] Re: GrpN or other race > spring rates? > > > Did you try them and not like them, or just > change you mind? > > Chris > > > > > From: "Murray Roblin" <murray@farleyroblin.com> > > Date: 2003/05/30 Fri PM 03:53:09 EDT > > To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: GrpN or other race > spring rates? > > > > Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 12:46:45 -0700 > > From: "Murray Roblin" <murray@farleyroblin.com> > > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: GrpN or other race > spring rates? > > > > re: the strictly german springs - I just > returned my set, so > > another set should be available mid-next week. > > > > Murray > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: Ahmad Lutfeali [mailto:m3_racer99@hotmail.com] > > > Sent: Friday, May 30, 2003 8:03 AM > > > To: E36M3 > > > Subject: [E36M3] Re: GrpN or other race spring rates? > > > > > > > > > Rob, > > > > > > The Group N springs (now discontinued) were > > > "approximately" 425lbs front > > > and 675 rears. > > > > > > H&R made springs (stiffer than their current > > > 'Race springs which are > > > rated at 325F, 515R') for the Group G series > as well (also > > > discontinued). > > > > > > There are 2 places that I know you can get > > > equivalent springs. > > > > > > > > > > > b) Strictly German was selling LTW springs on > > > ebay (a week ago). These > > > are not your regular LTW springs; I believe they > > > are the PPG springs and > > > are as similar to the Group Ns. You can pick > > > them up for under $150. > > > > > > Ahmad > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ************************************************* > > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting > our sponsors: > > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > > ************************************************* > > > > > > > > >
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#6. CD changer Cartridge Stuck - from eevans@planetc.com
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Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 00:25:33 -0400 From: eevans@planetc.com Subject: CD changer Cartridge Stuck One of my CD Changers has my 6 disc cartridge and won't eject. It's Model 469 404. What can I do to get it to eject? Can it be fixed or is it easier to just scrap it and buy another unit? BTW, I tested several other Changers on the same car and they all eject fine. So the wiring connection from the car is solid. I have an early model Changer from my old '95 M3, build date on that car was 8/95. It has a different connector in the back then the later model Changers as in my '99 M3. I also have a '95 M3 same build date and it is wired for the Model 469 404. When did BMW change the wiring on the '95s? PS I have several BMW CD Changers w/ covers and mounting brackets, all are for sale. Contact me privately if interested. Evan Evans President Smoky Mountain BMW CCA
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#7. Re: [E36M3] CD changer Cartridge Stuck - from Jason Bishop
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Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 02:26:50 -0700 (PDT) From: Jason Bishop <jason@doomba.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] CD changer Cartridge Stuck my changer got stuck once too. apparently it had tried to move the cd it was playing in our out while another cd wasn't seated properly. bound up the mechanism. its a little bit pita, but I took off the cover and wiggled the offending cd into place with a toothpick and then it worked again. maybe the same thing happened to you. Jason On Fri, 30 May 2003 eevans@planetc.com wrote: > Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 00:25:33 -0400 > From: eevans@planetc.com > Subject: CD changer Cartridge Stuck > > One of my CD Changers has my 6 disc cartridge and won't eject. It's Model > 469 404. What can I do to get it to eject? Can it be fixed or is it easier > to just scrap it and buy another unit? > > BTW, I tested several other Changers on the same car and they all eject > fine. So the wiring connection from the car is solid. > > I have an early model Changer from my old '95 M3, build date on that car > was 8/95. It has a different connector in the back then the later model > Changers as in my '99 M3. I also have a '95 M3 same build date and it is > wired for the Model 469 404. When did BMW change the wiring on the '95s? > > PS I have several BMW CD Changers w/ covers and mounting brackets, all are > for sale. Contact me privately if interested. > > Evan Evans > President > Smoky Mountain > BMW CCA > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#8. RE: Tie down points for trailering - from Wesley A. Nicolas
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Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 09:31:42 -0400 From: "Wesley A. Nicolas" <wes@nicolas.org> Subject: RE: Tie down points for trailering >Where are the correct/best tie down >points for trailering an e36 M3? Either T-hooks (see http://www.tunnellracing.com/thook.html) or you can weld eyelets directly to the frame. Someone I know learned the hard way by putting the straps on the wheels and mounted some eyelets on the suspension points (lower rear shock mounting point) and when the tow-vehicle was in an accident (with trailer attached of course) it bent the shocks. Expensive! Wes '95 M3
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#9. VANOS Issues & Radiator Question - from Raginglennie@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 11:12:45 EDT From: Raginglennie@aol.com Subject: VANOS Issues & Radiator Question So I'm thinking about the next upgrade when I hear it......the dreaded "marbles in a can" sound from under the hood in my '95 M3. I was hoping that the noise was just a loose piece of plastic engine cover rattling, but that doesn't appear to be the case. If it's VANOS, what am I looking at in terms of involvement & cost (in hours) from a good independent? Anything else to do while in there (e.g. cams, valve spring retainers, etc)? Car is a well cared for '95 M3 with (4) weekend driving schools and only 53,000 miles. To say the least, I was thinking of VANOS problems at 75k+ and am a little disappointed that it's cropped up this early, at least from a mileage standpoint. My other preventative maintenance question involves the radiator plastic. Tech Talk in Roundel recently advised a replacement using the BMP(?) aluminum piece that's shown in nearly all of their ads for about $40. Most of the people on this list seem to replace the entire radiator. Is the BMP piece (I think they call it a water manifold) sufficient, or should I replace the whole radiator due to other potential problems? No cooling issues on street or track to this point. Water pump, t'stat & t'stat housing have already been done. TIA, Mike Bjerke '95 Avus blue M3, in need of some VANOS TLC
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#10. Re: [E36M3] VANOS Issues & Radiator Question - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 13:03:49 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] VANOS Issues & Radiator Question Mike, The aluminum BMP part you are asking about is the thermostat housing. The original BMW part is plastic. It is an uncommon failure but I have seen the plastic thermostat housing break. If you have to choose, replace the original plastic impeller water pump before you replace the original plastic thermostat housing. The plastic housing should easily outlast two water pumps. However, I see you have already replaced your water pump, t'stat & t'stat housing. Did you install a new plastic t'stat housing? Yes? Then I would just leave it for now. Next time you replace the water pump, put on an aluminum thermostat housing. By the way, several places sell an aluminum thermostat housing. You new water pump should be good for another 70,000 miles or so. Regarding the radiator, there is no option but to replace the whole radiator. The plastic outlets that break on the BMW radiator are one piece with the radiator. The only part that can be replaced separate from the radiator is the overflow tank. But it really doesn't have anything to do with the radiator. Some guys have tried to reinforce the BMW plastic radiator by gluing metal sleeves inside the plastic outlets. I don't know how much good this will do. It is too soon to tell how this modification has worked out. I think there is one aftermarket all metal radiator and another company promising to make one. Neil Maller installed the one available aftermarket metal radiator. However he had some serious fitment issues. It doesn't sound like it is a job for amateurs. So until somebody produces a direct fit replacement metal radiator, we are stuck with the BMW plastic radiator. It has about a 75,000 mile life expectancy so add it to your maintenance schedule. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 w/ 67,000 miles - radiator soon to be replaced BMW CCA #131505 ------------------------------------------ Raginglennie@aol.com writes: > My other preventative maintenance question involves the radiator plastic. > Tech Talk in Roundel recently advised a replacement using the BMP(?) > aluminum > piece that's shown in nearly all of their ads for about $40. Most of the > people > on this list seem to replace the entire radiator. Is the BMP piece (I think > > they call it a water manifold) sufficient, or should I replace the whole > radiator due to other potential problems? No cooling issues on street or > track to > this point. Water pump, t'stat &t'stat housing have already been done. >