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#1. Another Window Question... - from William T. Wallace
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Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 15:10:41 -0400 From: "William T. Wallace" <daddy30@earthlink.net> Subject: Another Window Question... I have a 95 M3. I have to raise both my driver and passenger side windows by pressing the switch 5-10 times. To explain, they will not go all the way up when the switch is pressed. They will go maybe a quarter of the way and then stop and retract a little. It's kind of like my 5er when there is an obstruction in the way of the window, it will stop and retract. So I have to press hold, window will stop, and then I release and press and hold again and so on... Any clue? BTW.. Does the 95 Have one touch up? (obviously I have been living with this for a while) W. Wallace Tarheel BMWCCA '95 M3 (Sharked) '00 528i '95 Golf III
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Another Window Question... - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 15:28:56 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Another Window Question... William, Sorry, I can't help you on why your windows stop part way up. The "one-touch" close feature will quit on my 95 M3 about every other month. But a day later it works fine so I have no idea what is going on. You have a more serious problem than my intermittent malady. Which brings me to the reason for my post. Yes, your '95 M3 should have "one-touch" close and open on both windows. In fact, if you have a late model year 1995 M3, you should have "one-touch" open for the sunroof. I don't know for sure when "one-touch" open for the sunroof started. My 9/95 production M3 has it. My friend's 8/94 M3 does not. What I miss is "one-touch" close for the sunroof. It is annoying to have to hold your finger on the sunroof button after you park. This sounds like job for John Firestone to fix. John - help! <vbg> Lowell Seaton '95 M3 BMW CCA #131505 ------------------------------------------- daddy30@earthlink.net writes: > BTW.. Does the 95 Have one touch up? (obviously I have been living with > this for a while) >
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#3. Failure of the one touch window feature - from Shelhart2@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 16:22:52 EDT From: Shelhart2@aol.com Subject: Failure of the one touch window feature The failure of the one touch is due to a faulty hall sender in the motor. The solution is to replace the motor. It is a fairly straight forward operation. The senders typically go at 75K or so... Shel Hart 1998 M3
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#4. Initial impressions - Yokohama ES100's - from Shelhart2@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 16:37:27 EDT From: Shelhart2@aol.com Subject: Initial impressions - Yokohama ES100's Put on 4 new 235 40 17 ES 100's this last week. Mounted and balanced for $130 a piece. Bottom line... great tire for the money. Tire rack has them for $105. They are very quiet and seem to hold the road very well. Large center channels allow for excellent wet traction. Great daily drive tire and could be used at the occassional auto X. I tried the PZero Nero and RE 730's and these seem to hold just as well. Shel Hart 1998 M3
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#5. RE: [E36M3] Initial impressions - Yokohama ES100's - from Murray Roblin
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Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 14:32:54 -0700 From: "Murray Roblin" <murray@farleyroblin.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Initial impressions - Yokohama ES100's I've had the Yoko ES100s on my 95m3 for about 5 months, 4.3k miles. I like them, but I'm almost through the rears - I expect to get 6k miles out of the rears. At least one other lister has complained of the high wear rate. Though they are initially less expensive, seems like a false economy if they wear too quickly. I'd be interested if you'd post your experiences as they wear. Murray > -----Original Message----- > From: Shelhart2@aol.com [mailto:Shelhart2@aol.com] > Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2003 1:43 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [E36M3] Initial impressions - Yokohama ES100's > > > Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 16:37:27 EDT > From: Shelhart2@aol.com > Subject: Initial impressions - Yokohama ES100's > > > Put on 4 new 235 40 17 ES 100's this last week. > Mounted and balanced for > $130 a piece. Bottom line... great tire for the > money. Tire rack has them for > $105. They are very quiet and seem to hold the > road very well. Large center > channels allow for excellent wet traction. Great > daily drive tire and could be > used at the occassional auto X. I tried the > PZero Nero and RE 730's and > these seem to hold just as well. > > Shel Hart > 1998 M3 > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting > our sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#6. E36 Dyna-Batt group buy? - from Chris Papademetrious
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Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 18:00:30 -0400 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispy@ieee.org> Subject: E36 Dyna-Batt group buy? Everyone, I am thinking of putting together a group purchase for a Dyna-Batt conversion package for us E36 owners. This is an upgrade which replaces our heavy batteries with lightweight 13.5lb SLA (sealed lead acid) batteries. The Dyna-Batt battery is actually a Hawker Genesis G16EP battery, as per this page: http://www.stealth316.com/2-dynabatt.htm To allow for a clean install, you can use Russ Wiles' adapter cassette, which he sells for $65 shipped. Here are some pictures of his adapter cassette: http://homepage.mac.com/rwiles/PhotoAlbum5.html Russ only has seven cassettes left, but he indicated that he could make more. I think I found a good source for the Hawker Genesis G16EP battery: http://www.gotbatteries.com They normally sell the battery for $70, but there is a 10% discount for 5 or more. They also sell an SAE battery terminal set for $10 which screws into the Hawker battery and allows use of the existing battery cables in the car for an easy install (as opposed to using two positive battery cables). If there is sufficient interest, I can call them up and see if they can apply the 10% discount either to separate orders, or if I can consolidate our orders together but provide separate shipping addresses. If there are enough people interested, maybe I can negotiate a better price for the battery/terminal package as well. Please email me privately at chrispy@ieee.org if you are interested in this. - Chris
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#7. CD changer Magazine stuck - FIXED! - from eevans@planetc.com
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Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 19:12:17 -0400 From: eevans@planetc.com Subject: CD changer Magazine stuck - FIXED! Thanks to everyone that took the time to write and help me. For future reference here's what I did to retrieve the magazine. I took off the top cover and the front bracket around the chamber, while the whole thing was apart I could see that a disk was still in the chamber. I could see that by carefully turning the gears some movement occurred. I still couldn't eject it on the bench, but I went back to the trunk and put the small power lead back in (don't need the other connection here) and gently prodded the CD a bit while pushing the eject button. The CD went back into the mag and the mag ejected. I buttoned everything up and checked the mag for wear or damage, assured that it was OK I use it w/ a different CD changer now installed. Thank goodness I have a bench full of Changers to test with. Now the ? is do I dare put another CD mag in this Changer again. I guess since I know I can fix it I'll test it. Thanks again for the help. PS I have several BMW CD Changers w/ covers and mounting brackets, all are for sale. Contact me privately if interested. Evan Evans President Smoky Mountain BMW CCA
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#8. CD changer Cartridge Stuck - from K Quistorff
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Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 20:20:09 -0400 From: "K Quistorff" <kqkq@nc.rr.com> Subject: CD changer Cartridge Stuck Evan, This happened to the BMW 6-disc changer in my previous car, a '93 325is. The trick to getting it to eject was to slip a credit card under the cartridge, then it popped right out. I considered getting it fixed, but the price at BMW was more than a good used one on eBay. I just ended up living with it (and, of course, telling the guy who bought the car from me). Good luck! Keith Quistorff 1996 M3 Cary, NC -------------------- 6 -------------------- Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 00:25:33 -0400 From: eevans@planetc.com Subject: CD changer Cartridge Stuck One of my CD Changers has my 6 disc cartridge and won't eject. It's Model 469 404. What can I do to get it to eject? Can it be fixed or is it easier to just scrap it and buy another unit?
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#9. Engine mounts - Anyone replace them? - from Rob
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Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 18:41:36 -0600 From: "Rob" <speedmaster@telus.net> Subject: Engine mounts - Anyone replace them? I never hear about engine mounts needing to be replaced on E36 M3s. Has anyone ever replaced their mounts? Do they wear out or fail? Many of my previous cars (GTIs, Supra TT, 944 turbo, etc) have needed new mounts. Maybe BMW built a really long lasting part ;) Rob
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#10. Group Buy on Bimmerworld Solid Brake Guides - from e36m3digest@jedinite.com
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Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 20:00:21 -0500 From: "e36m3digest@jedinite.com" <e36m3digest@jedinite.com> Subject: Group Buy on Bimmerworld Solid Brake Guides I have set up a group buy on Bimmerworld solid brake guides. Bimmerworld says: The best brake upgrade you can buy for your BMW! Eliminate caliper twisting caused by rubber guide pin bushings in a stock single piston caliper. These kits, consisting of precision guide pins and machined brass guide bushings, will allow your calipers to squeeze evenly on both sides of the brake rotor - just like expensive multi-piston big brake kits. Results in significantly longer pad life and more consistent brake system feel Full kits (for front and rear) are normally $120 + shipping. Group buy price is $100 + shipping. Almost 20% discount! Check them out here on Bimmerworld's site: http://www.nexternal.com/bimmerworl/?Target=products.asp&RowID=46 I also need to point out that the guides need to be greased every time you change pads or rotors for a track car. For street driven cars that don't do it often, 3 months is the suggested interval. These are for track cars mostly due to maintenance required. Also, dusty environments require more frequent maintenance... Thank you, Eric M. Foster Performify.com