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#1. Re: [E36M3] Group Buy on Bimmerworld Solid Brake Guides - from e36m3digest@jedinite.com
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Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 20:18:24 -0500 From: "e36m3digest@jedinite.com" <e36m3digest@jedinite.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Group Buy on Bimmerworld Solid Brake Guides Sorry, left out some crucial information: If you are interested in participating, I just need your name and email address. So just drop me a line. Thanks! e36m3digest@jedinite.com wrote: > Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 20:00:21 -0500 > From: "e36m3digest@jedinite.com" <e36m3digest@jedinite.com> > Subject: Group Buy on Bimmerworld Solid Brake Guides > > I have set up a group buy on Bimmerworld solid brake guides. > > Bimmerworld says: > > The best brake upgrade you can buy for your BMW! Eliminate caliper > twisting caused by rubber guide pin bushings in a stock single piston > caliper. These kits, consisting of precision guide pins and machined > brass guide bushings, will allow your calipers to squeeze evenly on both > sides of the brake rotor - just like expensive multi-piston big brake > kits. Results in significantly longer pad life and more consistent brake > system feel > > Full kits (for front and rear) are normally $120 + shipping. Group buy > price is $100 + shipping. Almost 20% discount! > > Check them out here on Bimmerworld's site: > http://www.nexternal.com/bimmerworl/?Target=products.asp&RowID=46 > > I also need to point out that the guides need to be greased every time > you change pads or rotors for a track car. For street driven cars that > don't do it often, 3 months is the suggested interval. These are for > track cars mostly due to maintenance required. Also, dusty environments > require more frequent maintenance... > > > Thank you, > > Eric M. Foster > Performify.com >
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Group Buy on Bimmerworld Solid Brake Guides - from e36m3digest@jedinite.com
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Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 20:19:12 -0500 From: "e36m3digest@jedinite.com" <e36m3digest@jedinite.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Group Buy on Bimmerworld Solid Brake Guides Sorry, left out some crucial information: If you are interested in participating, I just need your name and email address. So just drop me a line. Thanks! e36m3digest@jedinite.com wrote: > Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 20:00:21 -0500 > From: "e36m3digest@jedinite.com" <e36m3digest@jedinite.com> > Subject: Group Buy on Bimmerworld Solid Brake Guides > > I have set up a group buy on Bimmerworld solid brake guides. > > Bimmerworld says: > > The best brake upgrade you can buy for your BMW! Eliminate caliper > twisting caused by rubber guide pin bushings in a stock single piston > caliper. These kits, consisting of precision guide pins and machined > brass guide bushings, will allow your calipers to squeeze evenly on both > sides of the brake rotor - just like expensive multi-piston big brake > kits. Results in significantly longer pad life and more consistent brake > system feel > > Full kits (for front and rear) are normally $120 + shipping. Group buy > price is $100 + shipping. Almost 20% discount! > > Check them out here on Bimmerworld's site: > http://www.nexternal.com/bimmerworl/?Target=products.asp&RowID=46 > > I also need to point out that the guides need to be greased every time > you change pads or rotors for a track car. For street driven cars that > don't do it often, 3 months is the suggested interval. These are for > track cars mostly due to maintenance required. Also, dusty environments > require more frequent maintenance... > > > Thank you, > > Eric M. Foster > Performify.com >
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Another Window Question... - from DocWyte
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Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 19:56:09 -0700 (PDT) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Another Window Question... Hmm, my 8/95 M3 doesn't have one touch open sunroof. Unless I'm missing something in how it works... -josh --- LoweSeaton@aol.com wrote: > Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 15:28:56 EDT > From: LoweSeaton@aol.com > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Another Window Question... > > > William, > > Sorry, I can't help you on why your windows stop > part way up. The > "one-touch" close feature will quit on my 95 M3 > about every other month. But a day > later it works fine so I have no idea what is going > on. You have a more serious > problem than my intermittent malady. > > Which brings me to the reason for my post. Yes, > your '95 M3 should have > "one-touch" close and open on both windows. In > fact, if you have a late model > year 1995 M3, you should have "one-touch" open for > the sunroof. I don't know for > sure when "one-touch" open for the sunroof started. > My 9/95 production M3 > has it. My friend's 8/94 M3 does not. > > What I miss is "one-touch" close for the sunroof. > It is annoying to have to > hold your finger on the sunroof button after you > park. This sounds like job > for John Firestone to fix. John - help! <vbg> > > Lowell Seaton > '95 M3 > BMW CCA #131505 > ------------------------------------------- > daddy30@earthlink.net writes: > > > BTW.. Does the 95 Have one touch up? (obviously I > have been living with > > this for a while) > > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > ===== __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM). http://calendar.yahoo.com
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Engine mounts - Anyone replace them? - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 01:36:18 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Engine mounts - Anyone replace them? Rob, My friend, and Lone Star Chapter CCA President, (Hi Alex!) had to replace his engine mounts at about 65,000 miles on his '95 M3. I think he is on vacation right now so I don't think he can respond. I'll give you the information I know. He bought the car used. He did about 1 year of autocrosses and DE's with it. Prior to his ownership, I think the car had a pretty sedate life. At our club DE last year, his upper radiator hose broke off from both ends. The plastic radiator neck broke, which is common, and the other end at the plastic thermostat housing broke. Simultaneous. By the way, this the only case of a broken thermostat housing that I know of. Obviously dumping coolant on the track is not good. Fortunately, no cars were damaged. Alex did say his car started to understeer big time. <g> He repaired the broken radiator and thermostat housing and finished the DE. He later discovered that his engine mounts were very bad. We suspect that the bad engine mounts allowed the engine to twist and pull on the radiator hose. This put extra strain on the plastic ends and broke them. I highly recommend everybody check their engine mounts as part of their DE tech inspection. I suspect a lot more people have bad engine mounts. I don't consider engine mounts to be a lifetime part on any car. I'd say, any and every car should have its engine mounts replaced every 100,000 miles. My experience is similar to yours. Every other car I've owned needed new engine mounts eventually. I didn't always replace them but that is another matter. Lowell Seaton '95 M3/2 BMW CCA #131505 -------------------------------------------- speedmaster@telus.net writes: > never hear about engine mounts needing to be replaced on E36 M3s. Has > anyone ever replaced their mounts? Do they wear out or fail? Many of my > previous cars (GTIs, Supra TT, 944 turbo, etc) have needed new mounts. Maybe > BMW built a really long lasting part ;) >
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Another Window Question... - from John Firestone
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Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 12:00:15 +0200 (CEST) From: John Firestone <john.firestone@nord-com.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Another Window Question... On Sat, 31 May 2003 LoweSeaton@aol.com wrote: > > What I miss is "one-touch" close for the sunroof. It is annoying to > have to hold your finger on the sunroof button after you park. This > sounds like job for John Firestone to fix. John - help! <vbg> > I see I am being paged. :) Ron Stygar and I were investigating how to add one-touch close but then other projects intervened. According to the engineers I talked to at Webasto, it is missing because the sunroof has no pinch protection. Sensing the motor current probably isn't sufficient because the stall and run currents are not a great deal different. The resistive pinch strip used in the contemporary 7-series sunroof might work. I was considering that, a capacitive proximity strip, or light curtain before something more pressing came up. I can sympathize about having to hold your finger on the sunroof button after you park. What is doubly inconvenient is having to switch the ignition back on should someone open a door, on a U.S. car at least. What many have done is buy a fancier remote control with timed-pulse outputs and programmed one to pulse the ZKE lock and unlock inputs for, say, 20 s to lock and close up the car. I went a few steps further when I designed my ZZKE controller. With it and a long range remote control, you can lock and close up the car, leave the sunroof tilted open on hot summer days, roll down the windows, or turn an auxiliary heating / park ventilation system on and off. All take a single button push except rolling down the windows which takes two. You might like being able to leave the sunroof tilted open, assuming the next Texas-sized thunderstorm that comes along won't turn the interior into an aquarium. -John '96 318is
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#6. Front Strut Tower Reinforcement Plates - from Nancy Fluharty
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Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 10:29:30 -0400 From: "Nancy Fluharty" <fluhar@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Front Strut Tower Reinforcement Plates Do the 96+ reinforcement plates go on top? Reason: I'm wrapping up a strut replacement. I've ordered those plates but don't have them yet. Can I go ahead and re-install the struts and add the reinforcement plates later? Or do the plates go on the underside of the tower, and I should hold off on the re-install til I have them? Bob Fluharty 95 M3 87 325is Cincinnati
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Front Strut Tower Reinforcement Plates - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 07:56:14 -0700 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Front Strut Tower Reinforcement Plates The plates go on the underside of the tower. Between the strut hat and strut tower. You'll have to drop your strut to install them. That may affect your alignment. I'd wait if you can. Jay At 09:33 AM 6/1/03 -0500, you wrote: >Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 10:29:30 -0400 >From: "Nancy Fluharty" <fluhar@worldnet.att.net> >Subject: Front Strut Tower Reinforcement Plates > >Do the 96+ reinforcement plates go on top? > >Reason: I'm wrapping up a strut replacement. I've ordered those plates but >don't have them yet. Can I go ahead and re-install the struts and add the >reinforcement plates later? Or do the plates go on the underside of the >tower, and I should hold off on the re-install til I have them? > >Bob Fluharty >95 M3 >87 325is >Cincinnati > > > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: >Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > > >
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#8. rear bumper removal questions - from KLchmn@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 14:45:40 EDT From: KLchmn@aol.com Subject: rear bumper removal questions I need to remove the rear bumper to gain access to the bumper shocks. I'm installing tow straps instead of the tow spear, errr, hook. Any advice on bumper removal or other ways to gain access to the bumper shock would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Kirk Lachman Sin City Chapter '95 M3 #21 I-stock
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Engine mounts - Anyone replace them? - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 12:17:20 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Engine mounts - Anyone replace them? At 05:43 PM 5/31/03, Rob wrote: > I never hear about engine mounts needing to be replaced on E36 M3s. Has >anyone ever replaced their mounts? Do they wear out or fail? Yes and yes. We replaced the motor mounts at about 120K on the M3 while doing a lot of other maintenance work (control arms, clutch, rear main seal, swaybar and F subframe reinforcements). IIRC, the motor mounts on the race car had already been replaced when I bought it. Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP/A5
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#10. Re: [E36M3] rear bumper removal questions - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 13:02:17 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] rear bumper removal questions You'll need to remove the lower valence first (screws and push pins). Then you need to unscrew the nut holding the bumper to the trunk floor. After that, there are two long bolts that go upwards through the bumper and secure the reinforcement bar (that holds the bumper) to the bumper shocks. The whole bumper slides backwards (you'll have to unscrew the rear wheel liners, etc). Chester --- KLchmn@aol.com wrote: > I need to remove the rear bumper to gain access to the bumper shocks. I'm > installing tow straps instead of the tow spear, errr, hook. > > Any advice on bumper removal or other ways to gain access to the bumper shock > > would be greatly appreciated. > =====