-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. RE: [E36M3] radiator options - from Jeremy Warfield
Top
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 13:34:16 -0400 From: "Jeremy Warfield" <jww95_list@verizon.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] radiator options You know I think that is the best logic... I'm sitting here complaining about the plastic outlets, and using that as the basis for looking at the aftermarket stuff, when in reality, the plastic one has served it's function just fine over the past 8 years. And it's not like I'm racing the car or even participating in a lot of track days... -----Original Message----- From: Chester Wong [mailto:chester_p_wong@yahoo.com] Sent: Monday, June 02, 2003 1:20 PM To: Jeremy Warfield; E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] radiator options Unless you need the additional cooling capacity (Neil's experience with lowered oil temp, etc), I don't see the need to get the aluminum one when you can get 3 OEM ones over a replacement interval of 4 years or so. How about you install that nice shiny new aluminum radiator and then a nice sized rock ruins your day? Chester --- Jeremy Warfield <jww95_list@verizon.net> wrote: > Now I guess the PWR is still an option, even after reading Neil's saga. It > seems like they fixed the coolant temp sensor port, and I don't mind > modifying the upper mounting tabs/clamps, but the radiator to clutch fan > clearance does concern me. > > Well if anyone has any opinions, I'd like to hear them. But it seems the > oem replacement might be the best option, considering price, fitment, and > availability. That's too bad, because the increased capacity of the > aluminum aftermarket units would be nice. =====
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. Re: Keys locked in '92 E36 - from Boen168@aol.com
Top
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 13:56:32 EDT From: Boen168@aol.com Subject: Re: Keys locked in '92 E36 Evan, Depending on how soon your daughter needs the car, cheaper alternative would be to go to your dealer's parts dept., give them the car's Vin# and proof of ownership and order a new factory key...2 working days. David '95 M3 In a message dated 6/2/03 10:39:04 AM Pacific Daylight Time, e36m3@bmw-m.net writes: > Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 18:45:29 -0400 > From: eevans@planetc.com > Subject: Keys locked in '92 E36 > > My daughter managed to lock her keys in her '92 318iS.........don't ask. > Anyone have a good trick for opening the car? Lock Smith want's a $100. Yes > there's only one key. > > TIA > > Evan > > > > > >
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. Fault Code - from Edward N Frank
Top
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 13:58:44 -0400 From: "Edward N Frank" <enf@iglou.com> Subject: Fault Code This morning was rather cool out when I tried to start my car. It just didn't want to stay running when I turned it over 2 or 3 times. It sounded very rough and my check engine light came on and stayed on. If I kept my foot on the accelerator it would be fine, if I let off it got rough and died. With my trusty Peake research tool in hand I found fault code F1 My problem is............... I lost my manual and can't find out what it means. Any help would be appreciated. It is a 97 M3/4. Has just at 60000 miles on it. As the day warmed up it started fine and runs ok now. Any thoughts? Ed Frank 97 M3/4
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. RE: [E36M3] Fault Code - from M-Power
Top
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 13:17:17 -0500 From: "M-Power" <M-Power@austin.rr.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Fault Code Misfire detected, Cyl #4 Jim Hagerman 99 M3 -----Original Message----- From: Edward N Frank [mailto:enf@iglou.com] Sent: Monday, June 02, 2003 13:03 To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Fault Code Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 13:58:44 -0400 From: "Edward N Frank" <enf@iglou.com> Subject: Fault Code This morning was rather cool out when I tried to start my car. It just didn't want to stay running when I turned it over 2 or 3 times. It sounded very rough and my check engine light came on and stayed on. If I kept my foot on the accelerator it would be fine, if I let off it got rough and died. With my trusty Peake research tool in hand I found fault code F1 My problem is............... I lost my manual and can't find out what it means. Any help would be appreciated. It is a 97 M3/4. Has just at 60000 miles on it. As the day warmed up it started fine and runs ok now. Any thoughts? Ed Frank 97 M3/4 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5.Breaking into an E36... - from marc@plante.com
Top
Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2003 11:23:49 -0700 (PDT) From: marc@plante.com Subject: <Misc>Breaking into an E36... I could get into my integra by hooking the lock in the door. You can't do this with BMWs, you have to actually get the knob and pull it up. Watched a tow truck driver do this... Get a piece of the stiff nylon strapping that they use to bundle newspapers or boxes (like the ones with copy paper at your office. Fold it flat and gently pry the back of the door open a hair to work the flattened, folded strapping into the door. Then position the strap against the window above the top of the knob; push in the end of the strapping away from the window. This forces the strapping into a loop that you slide down over the knob. Then pull back on the strapping to tighten the loop around the knob and use the strapping noose to pull the knob up. If you have AAA, you can call a tow truck to do it. Otherwise any tow truck driver typically charges $35 for a lock out, an it takes them more time to write the bill up than it get into the car. Marc Plante E36 325i, 213k (My head still buzzing from 3 days driving at Summit Point) Vienna, VA Marc Plante marc@plante.com
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. radiator options - from Dorffer, Rich
Top
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 14:24:56 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: radiator options > Unless you need the additional cooling capacity (Neil's experience with lowered > oil temp, etc), I don't see the need to get the aluminum one when you can get 3 > OEM ones over a replacement interval of 4 years or so. How about you install > that nice shiny new aluminum radiator and then a nice sized rock ruins your > day? Well, the one reason I figure is that "an all aluminum" radiator of quality build would not only offer additional cooling (depending on the design), but also would eliminate the fear of failure on the street or, worse yet, on the track. Also, I would rather replace the radiator one time rather than three times during the same period. You have also got the cost of all of the coolant along with the time (and labor if you don't do it yourself). That is my opinion. Regards, Rich - still waiting to hear from James at BimmerWorld when the Fluidyne will be available
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. RE: [E36M3] Fault Code - from Chester Wong
Top
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 11:30:06 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Fault Code The fact that you turned it over a few times probably had a lot of fuel and incompletely combusted fuel around.... Unless you get the rough idle consistently, I wouldn't worry about it too much. Chester --- M-Power <M-Power@austin.rr.com> wrote: > This morning was rather cool out when I tried to start my car. It just > didn't want to stay running when I turned it over 2 or 3 times. It sounded > very rough and my check engine light came on and stayed on. If I kept my > foot on the accelerator it would be fine, if I let off it got rough and > died. > > With my trusty Peake research tool in hand I found fault code F1 > My problem is............... I lost my manual and can't find out what it > means. > =====
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. Re: [E36M3]Breaking into an E36... - from Chester Wong
Top
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 11:48:05 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] <Misc>Breaking into an E36... Uh...maybe not a good idea to post this a public forum :( You can always do what my thief did...smash the window! ....or...rip out the key cylinder... O wait...you don't want to damage the car, eh? :) BTW, that procedure sounds like it's for a 4 door as there is noting you can pull up on a 2 door... Chester --- marc@plante.com wrote: > Get a piece of the stiff nylon strapping that they use to bundle newspapers > or boxes <snip> =====
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. Re: [E36M3] radiator options - from Chester Wong
Top
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 11:56:04 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] radiator options Agreed. However, if the premium for an aluminum radiator was <$100, I'd certainly do it. But...I don't think I'd fear breaking the radiator necks if I replaced every 3 - 4 years. Coolant should be replaced once every 1 - 2 years anyway, no? Replacing the radiator is really not too difficult. But my real fear with getting such a nice aluminum would be the potential for a rock to puncture it....kinda hard to swallow a $600 disposable item vs. a $150 one... Chester --- "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> wrote: > Well, the one reason I figure is that "an all aluminum" radiator of quality > build would not only offer additional cooling (depending on the design), but > also would eliminate the fear of failure on the street or, worse yet, on the > track. > > Also, I would rather replace the radiator one time rather than three times > during the same period. You have also got the cost of all of the coolant > along with the time (and labor if you don't do it yourself). > > That is my opinion. > > Regards, > > Rich - still waiting to hear from James at BimmerWorld when the Fluidyne will > be available > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > =====
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. Re: [E36M3]Breaking into an E36... - from Michael Lawrence
Top
Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2003 15:50:09 -0400 From: Michael Lawrence <95m3ltw@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] <Misc>Breaking into an E36... 1. Does not matter what we post, I dont think any 'new' ideas on how to break into a bmw will be gained by a thief. They knew all of them about 2 months after the E36 was released. 2. Breaking the rear side window is probably the cheapest route to go, FOR REAL. As a side window can be had for about $30 used and takes all of about 5 mins to install. Cleaning the glass out of the car will be the hardest part of the deal. 3. Thieves usually don't care about normal methods of entry, as busting the side window is quick, 100% effective way into the car and easily replaceable. 4. On both of M3s, they never doubled locked as most claim they do. I locked myself out of both cars, a coat hanger slipped in between the glass and rubber gasket at the side of glass, hook the door handle with a loop in the coat hanger, pull and door unlocks it self. I have done this on 3 different E36s, worked every time. As I said before, neither of my 95 M3s ever double locked themselves. But on more than 1 occasion they did lock themselves with keys in the ignition. After that, I never leave the keys in a BMW unless the window is down. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chester Wong" <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Uh...maybe not a good idea to post this a public forum :(