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#1. Want to buy - various - from e36m3digest@jedinite.com
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Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2003 15:39:36 -0500 From: "e36m3digest@jedinite.com" <e36m3digest@jedinite.com> Subject: Want to buy - various I'm in need of a few parts, and wanted to give any listers a chance to do some spring cleaning: Want to buy (for my 1995 M3) - JTD Underpannel (preferred) or new stock underpannel - JTD rear shock brace - new wheel liners (both sides) - Z3 RSM plates I've got vendors picked out, so I don't need helpful vendor reco's unless someone has a phenominal special going on right now... Thank you, Eric M. Foster Performify.com
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#2. Testing O2 sensors? - from David Ngo
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Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 14:46:18 -0700 (PDT) From: David Ngo <rudngo@yahoo.com> Subject: Testing O2 sensors? Is it possible to test O2 sensors somehow? I definitely need to replace one, but I'm not sure if I should spring for replacing all of them just yet. Thanks, Dave __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM). http://calendar.yahoo.com
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#3. Re: radiator options - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2003 18:39:23 -0400 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: radiator options on 6/2/03 4:13 PM, Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> wrote: > But my real fear with getting such a nice aluminum would be the potential for > a rock to puncture it....kinda hard to swallow a $600 disposable item vs. a > $150 one... Since the coolant radiator is behind the A/C condenser, that would have to be a fairly enterprising rock! Neil 96 M3
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#4. Re: E46 M3 oil cooler - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2003 18:44:42 -0400 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: E46 M3 oil cooler on 5/30/03 10:23 AM, m3ltw@msn.com wrote: > A BMW master tech once was looking over the Euro oil cooler setup (was on my > Euro-motor'd car). He thought the most inexpensive alternative (without > touching the stock US radiator) would be to use the cooler from an automatic > transmission. They can be had relatively cheaply (or nearly free from a > junkyard), and mount simply in front of the main radiator using stock > hardware. > > I don't know if it would really work, and would cause some degradation in > radiator efficiency, but since BMW uses this method already, I assume it is > tolerable. I gave that option some thought, and rejected it for two reasons. (1) The serpentine tubes typically used by xmission coolers would seem likely to lead to more pressure drop than the side tank design of engine oil coolers. (2) I believe that xmission coolers are designed to operate at lower pressures, whereas engine oil coolers are usually tested to withstand 200 psi or better. I'm not certain that either of these are real issues, but since I have no way to find out, I decided to pass on this option. Neil 96 M3
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Re: radiator options - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 15:46:46 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: radiator options Hehehe...okay, okay....I'm just being a cheap ass when it comes to my POS nowdays. A year ago, I would have heavily considered it...now I'm just driving the wheels off of it....go figure. I just can't stomach the E46M3...doesn't evoke the same emotion out of me. Though a E46M3 with a V8 from the factory might!!! Chester --- Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> wrote: > Since the coolant radiator is behind the A/C condenser, that would have to > be a fairly enterprising rock! =====
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#6. Re: Front Strut Tower Reinforcement Plates - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2003 18:49:47 -0400 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Front Strut Tower Reinforcement Plates on 6/1/03 4:13 PM, "Nancy Fluharty" <fluhar@worldnet.att.net> wrote: > Do the 96+ reinforcement plates go on top? > > Reason: I'm wrapping up a strut replacement. I've ordered those plates but > don't have them yet. Can I go ahead and re-install the struts and add the > reinforcement plates later? Or do the plates go on the underside of the > tower, and I should hold off on the re-install til I have them? They go above the strut hat and below the strut tower sheet metal. It's possible to retrofit them without completely removing the strut. Jack up the car, take off the wheels, remove the three strut hat nuts on each side, and allow the front suspension to droop. Then you can reach up into the tower from below and slip the reinforcing plate over the hat studs. It's easier if you detach one swaybar link so that you can raise and lower each side independently. Neil 96 M3
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#7. Wanted: Aftermarket front sway bar - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2003 15:50:46 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Wanted: Aftermarket front sway bar I need an aftermarket adjustable front swaybar to play with. Needs to be stiffer than a stock E36 325 front sway bar. Doesnąt matter if its M3 or non-M3 arrangement. Anyone got one lying around they want to part with? Thanks. - Mark -- mark@pdc-racing.net
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#8. Adjusting E-brake? - from DocWyte
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Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 16:15:12 -0700 (PDT) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: Adjusting E-brake? Guys, I have to pull my e-brake up to the tippy top for it to hold the car and even then it doesn't seem to really hold it all that well. How do I adjust the e-brake? Thanks! -josh ===== __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM). http://calendar.yahoo.com
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Adjusting E-brake? - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 18:05:27 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Adjusting E-brake? You have to lift the ass in the air (the car's not yours...hehe). Undo the parking brake boot on the console to expose the cable adjusters. If you don't think you have to adjust the shoes themselves, then it's as simple as tightening up the slack. To completely adjust the brakes: - Remove all tension from the cable adjusters from the cabin - You might want to remove the wheel and rotor setup to get an idea of how the mechanism works. You fit a flathead screwdriver through the lug bolt hole and turn the adjuster one click at a time. - Adjust the adjuster on each rear wheel (with the adjuster cables totally slack) until you can't turn the rear wheel at all. - Once you can't move the wheel, back off 8 clicks (M3 application...different for standard 3 series) - Repeat on other side - Once the shoes are spaces out properly, now it's time to go inside the cabin. - Lift the parking brake four clicks - Start tightening the cable adjusters until you can't turn the wheel anymore. - Alternate each side to feel the friction imparted by the shoes..just a little nudge gives you a good idea before you start turning the half-shaft, diff, driveshaft, other wheel, etc Button up everything and you're good to go. Chester --- DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> wrote: > I have to pull my e-brake up to the tippy top for it > to hold the car and even then it doesn't seem to > really hold it all that well. =====
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#10. Re: [E36M3]Breaking into an E36 - from bmw
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Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 03:15:04 -0700 (PDT) From: bmw <m3lawdawg@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] <Misc>Breaking into an E36 FOr those trying to get into thier cars, after locking the keys in. If you go down to your local fire department and ask them to borrow the Z tool kit, it will get you into any car made. This is a kit that is updated yearly, it comes with a book on how to get into any car and an assortment of tools to use. Same thing a lock smith would use. Some fire departments will come out if you call, some will lone you the kit if you leave your license with them until you bring it back, or they send the police to get it. just a suggestion to try. Tony __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM). http://calendar.yahoo.com