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#1.Driver's Side HK Rear Speaker - from shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com
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Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 08:15:30 -0400 From: shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com Subject: <WTB> Driver's Side HK Rear Speaker <P>Hoping that somebody has one of these lying around from a race car build project or replacement of the stock parts. The Driver's side rear deck speaker on my M3 coupe with HK option is dying and the buzzing is driving me nuts. If somebody has one they are willing to sell please let me know. I haven't tried to call and see what the dealer wants for one of these yet but figured I would try to help clear up some garage space from a lister first.</P><P>Shane K.</P><P>'96 M3</P><P>'94 325 #335 JP</P>.
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#2.Breaking into an E36 - from Brad Ahrens
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Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 07:30:38 -0700 (PDT) From: Brad Ahrens <txsaggie97@yahoo.com> Subject: <Misc>Breaking into an E36 Just as a counter-point.... My 97 M3/4 has always double locked when I used the key in the door (not sure if it has to be the drivers side...never really experimented) I don't have keyless, etc so never experimented with that either. I *have* locked a friend in the car by accident though with they key (only for a minute until I realized) and he tried pulling up on all the door pulls and got nada. Nor did the door lock button work on the center console. I had to let him out. The pulls WILL unlock the door if you lock the doors by pushing one of them down. __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM). http://calendar.yahoo.com
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#3. Re: Wanted: Aftermarket front sway bar - from James Clay
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Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 11:48:33 -0400 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Re: Wanted: Aftermarket front sway bar We have the Ground Control parts in stock now that were designed for us. Tubular, slide adjustable front, very small rear for tweaking the balance with 5 adjustment holes. Either available separately. James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance 540.639.9648
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#4. Koni Install - from Nancy Fluharty
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Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 16:25:16 -0400 From: "Nancy Fluharty" <fluhar@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Koni Install Completed the notorious Koni Cut-n-Gut this weekend. I prowled the archives and came up with a procedure from Neil Maller (Digest #1347) which laid out the entire operation. It went very smoothly; the only delay was, surprisingly, removal of the first swaybar link from the strut housing. The bolt spins in the ball joint. Since the boot was already torn, I finally clamped it in visegrips and was able to release it. Once it's free, you can see that it has flats where a thin 16 mm wrench can hold it (a normal wrench is too thick). I had a cheapo bicycle multi-wrench stamped from steel plate which worked fine on the second link. I'll be replacing those links soon and now I know the secret. Cutting the housing top off with a hacksaw is tedious. I took pains to insure a flat, perpendicular cut, but now I know that it's not critical. A sloppy cut with a cut-off wheel, followed by appropriate filing, would be adequate and much faster. For the rear, I decided to cut the access flaps in the trunk liner, using guidance from another Maller post (#2432 - Damn, he's everywhere!). My only modification to his recommendations was extending the flap on the open end a little beyond the window in the inside material (the rubbery sound-deadening stuff), making an overlap where I could stick little tabs of velcro to hold the mousefir flap closed. I used the E46M3 RSM's and added the Z3 reinforcements. For the front, I had ordered the 96+ reinforcements but didn't have them in time. (Thanks to Jay Hudson and Jim Dye for quick answers to my Sunday-morning question about placement.) It was pointed out that those plates, fitting between the strut hat and the bottom of the tower, might significantly affect alignment. Since there's other work I want to do prior to an alignment, I'll hold off on the front reinforcements. I'm hoping I can lower the strut assembly/hub on a jack enough to slip the plates in without unbolting the bottom. Results seem to be all positive. In my limited driving so far, the car definitely feels tighter and less floaty, especially in transitions, without any harshness penalty over bumps. As a first cut, I'm set at rear-1 turn from soft, front- 3/4 turn from soft. (Incidently - I expected to feel clicks or detents as I adjusted, but felt nothing. Am I missing something? I did feel the stops at the full-soft end of the adjustment range.) The removed shocks and struts were clearly worn out. I could easily push the shafts in by hand, although I could not do it using my pinkie, as Alex claims. (Dude must have a hell of a pinkie!) The RSM's were beginning to separate. The bearings in the front hats were dry, but I didn't replace them, just relubed. It was not obvious from the handling of the car that these pieces were shot - until my first track session I thought they were fine. But there's obviously an improvement with the new. I had not previously dealt with bimmerparts.com, but they had the best price of places that had the parts in stock, $555 for the set. I figure the dollar/Euro will kick these prices up soon, so I ordered the cooling system kit (radiator, hoses, belts, pump, t-stat & housing for $250) at the same time. The salesman was knowledgeable and I received everything in 6 days, including the Memorial Day weekend. Next up is the RTA bushings. If anyone cares to loan me their RTAB tool, I will gladly help amortize the capital investment. Bob Fluharty 95 M3 87 325is Cincinnati
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Koni Install - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 13:59:43 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Koni Install At 01:32 PM 6/3/03, Nancy Fluharty wrote: >(Incidently - I expected to feel >clicks or detents as I adjusted, but felt nothing. Am I missing something? >I did >feel the stops at the full-soft end of the adjustment range.) Nope, you're not missing anything. No clicks or detents, just keep track of how much you turn. Sounds like it went relatively smoothly, congratulations. Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - w/Koni's that were already cut-n-gutted - thanks Jonathan! 1993 325is #44 JP/A5 - Bilstein/H&R/Eibach suspension
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#6. Re: [E36M3]Race Mark System - from H26C@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 23:14:20 EDT From: H26C@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3]Race Mark System I just have to pass the following on to all of you: We just got a 1999 ///M3 in on a flat bed. It was equipped with a RMS, Race Mark System, supercharger setup. The car did not run and although it turned over, there was no life what so ever. We checked everything and finally took the head off. Lo and behold, all six pistons were MELTED in the holes! MELTED! The head was cracked on seven different places. The owners said he took the car back to RMS, Osh, the owner simply told him to get the F**k out of there! He went back with his father and a lawyer and all of them were threatened by Osh and left. They took the car with them and brought it to us. The engine is completely gone and will have to be replaced with a new or rebuild. As it turned out the software RMS installed would not let the DME increase the fuel mixture at higher rpm, the car leaned out and simply got so hot the pistons melted. Of course RMS is at fault, but since the install was done over three months ago, they say there is no warranty. Right now the BAR is getting involved and in all probability RMS will be closed down by the state. Makes no difference to Osh, he has been there before. He just closes his shop, signs the papers over to a relative, opens a new shop under a different name and continues ripping people off. This car came in last week. Right now it's sitting waiting for an inspector from BAR. So this afternoon another car comes in on a flat bed, also an ///M3, a 1998. It won't run either. We hooked it up to the diagnostic computer - the DME is fried! Gone, totally destroyed! It too had a RMS software download. Is there no stopping this rip off artist? Thought I would warn you, Leif
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#7. E36 M3 camber plate - from RFKoby@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 23:59:25 EDT From: RFKoby@aol.com Subject: E36 M3 camber plate for everyone that had replied with interest in the custom FIXED CAMBER PLATES FOR E36 M3's, Sorry for the delay, I had to source the materials and machining through differents sources because of a a recent job change. The plates are now being made. The first batch will be ready for shipping by the first of next week. Again, there are 3 type of plate that can be made for the following: Type 95-1 = 1995 M3, 3 settings, 1/2 degree increments Type 95-2 = 1995 M3, 3 settings, 3/4 degree increments Type 96 = 1996+ M3, 4 settings, 3/4 degree increments The type 95-1 at the 3rd setting will yield approx. 1.5 degrees. The type 95-2 at the 3rd setting, and the type 96 on the 4th setting will both yield approx. 2.25 degrees. The extra setting on the type 96 is to compensate for the offset strut bearing. The first setting on the type 96 will duplicate a 95 strut bearing. The 2nd setting on the type 96 will be very close to the same as swapping the strut bearings side to side. Remember, all camber changes stated will be in ADDITION to what the car already has. Also, these plates are meant to be set the same on both sides. These camber plates will not make up the approx. 1/2 degree camber difference that is found on most M3's (1/2 degree more on the right side is typical). The price for the plates is $125 with hardware and shipping included. Please email me for payment and delivery instructions. bob
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#8. Thanks to all those that replied - from Pilewan23@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 00:10:52 EDT From: Pilewan23@aol.com Subject: Thanks to all those that replied I replaced the thermostat, but more importantly the waterpump (the impeller would spin independent to the pulley. Since replacement all is back to normal. Thank You Ajay, 95 Avus blue
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#9. Re: [E36M3] E36 M3 camber plate - from ChuckBrazeau@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 04 Jun 2003 09:11:40 -0400 From: ChuckBrazeau@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36 M3 camber plate Do you have any digital photos of these plates that you can e-mail or posted on a website? They sound pretty interesting, but i'd like to see how they install/work. :-) Chuck Brazeau '95 BMW M3 - Violet on Black SCCA Solo2 - Street Modified #95 http://www.brazeauracing.com/ In a message dated 6/3/2003 11:02:59 PM Eastern Standard Time, RFKoby writes: > for everyone that had replied with interest > in the custom FIXED CAMBER PLATES FOR E36 M3's, > > Sorry for the delay, I had to source the materials and machining through > differents sources because of a a recent job change. > > The plates are now being made. The first batch will be ready for shipping by > the first of next week. > > Again, there are 3 type of plate that can be made for the following: > Type 95-1 = 1995 M3, 3 settings, 1/2 degree increments > Type 95-2 = 1995 M3, 3 settings, 3/4 degree increments > Type 96 = 1996+ M3, 4 settings, 3/4 degree increments > > The type 95-1 at the 3rd setting will yield approx. 1.5 degrees. > > The type 95-2 at the 3rd setting, and the type 96 on the 4th setting will > both yield approx. 2.25 degrees. The extra setting on the type 96 is to > compensate for the offset strut bearing. The first setting on the type 96 will > duplicate a 95 strut bearing. The 2nd setting on the type 96 will be very close to > the same as swapping the strut bearings side to side. > > Remember, all camber changes stated will be in ADDITION to what the car > already has. Also, these plates are meant to be set the same on both sides. > These camber plates will not make up the approx. 1/2 degree camber difference that > is found on most M3's (1/2 degree more on the right side is typical). > > The price for the plates is $125 with hardware and shipping > included. > > Please email me for payment and delivery instructions. > > bob
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#10. test - from Richard Dahlka
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Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 10:10:54 -0400 From: "Richard Dahlka" <rickd@swfla.rr.com> Subject: test