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#1. Sore Knees - from Ned Coonen
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Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 12:59:52 -0500 From: "Ned Coonen" <Ned@fastbears.com> Subject: Sore Knees Get ye to a sporting goods store or Wal-Mart and buy a basketball knee pad...a cheap one. Slide it up your leg and turn the pad toward the console when driving in anger. No more bruises! ....ned. '98 M3 '88 M5 '03 Cooper S (any day now...) > Now I have to come up with some sort of pad for the center > console to keep my knee from getting so sore. > > Jay
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#2. Re: [E36M3] oil filter cap - from Garrett
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Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 11:01:01 -0700 (PDT) From: Garrett <garrettmcw@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] oil filter cap Ack! Don't get yourself into trouble here. Replace the O-rings and aluminum crush washer and torque to spec (18 ft-lb) and you'll be fine. You're putting a steel bolt into an aluminum housing--overtightening, especially with the engine warm, risks galling the threads. -Garrett > -------------------- 10 -------------------- > Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 13:19:12 EDT > From: LoweSeaton@aol.com > Subject: Re: [E36M3] oil filter p/n!!!! > Oh! I will recommend you really tighten down the > bolt holding the filter cap > on. I don't know what the torque requirement is but > I doubt you have a > torque wrench that small. Just make it good and > tight by hand. Probably tighter > than you first want to believe. I was afraid of > overtightening it one of my > first oil changes and the oil leaked out. > > Lowell Seaton > '95 M3 > BMW CCA #131505
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#3. Re: [E36M3] oil filter cap - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 14:45:20 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] oil filter cap Oh! Is 18 lb-ft the spec torque for the oil filter cap? I didn't know. [I also don't know if the unit is ft-lb or lb-ft? I really think the correct designation is lb-ft but don't ask me to prove it. ;-) I know everybody uses ft-lb and ft-lb is easier to say. But in metric units, torque is N-m. So that seems to agree with my lb-ft unit. Anyway, I'm off the subject.] I do have some personal experience. I know the bolt was torqued WAY MORE than 18 lb-ft from the factory because I was the first person to loosen it when I changed the oil at 2,000 miles. I thought I was going to break the bolt. I started out with my 8" long 3/8" Craftsman rachet. I pulled on it with all my strength, wouldn't budge. I sure hoped it was a conventional right-hand threaded bolt. I had to get out my 15" long breaker bar and then I just barely broke it loose. I'd say it was torqued to at least 100 lb-ft from the factory! Then on one of my very early oil changes, I just snugged the bolt down with my 8" rachet. I figured it was plenty tight. Well, next time I had the hood open, I noticed oil had weeped down the side of the filter housing. Another 1/8th turn of the bolt stopped the seepage. I don't have a torque wrench that can measure down low enough to 18 lb-ft. But I would estimate that I am torquing my oil filter bolt to about 30 lb-ft in order to stop oil leaking out. You have to put some effort into it with my 8" long rachet. That is the only way I have stopped the oil leaking out. Garrett makes a good point about the crush washers and O-rings. Replace all of them with the new ones in the package. So far I have not had any problems. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 BMW CCA #131505 -------------------------------------------- garrettmcw@yahoo.com writes: > Ack! Don't get yourself into trouble here. Replace > the O-rings and aluminum crush washer and torque to > spec (18 ft-lb) and you'll be fine. You're putting a > steel bolt into an aluminum housing--overtightening, > especially with the engine warm, risks galling the > threads. >
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#4. Garage Sale Misc. E36 & E30 Parts - from eevans@planetc.com
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Date: Sat, 07 Jun 2003 15:45:51 -0400 From: eevans@planetc.com Subject: Garage Sale Misc. E36 & E30 Parts Please write or call if you have fitment questions. All items sold as is and do not include shipping. E30: Alpine in dash receiver # 7871 w/ Alpine 6 CD Changer for sale $300. Factory wheel locks w/ keys new in box from E30 M3, but should fit most BMWs $25. (2) used rear beige floor mats could fit an E30 or E36 $10 (2) Fog lights, BMW OEM Quartz Osram Ellipsoid Right and Left assembly w/ brackets for E30s 88-91 $120 pr. E30 used radio unit w/ code from '88 325iS $50 Tinted sunroof air deflector should fit any car w/ sliding sunroof $20. E36: (4) piece E36 '97> clear side markers and clear front signal corners for sale $50. BMW 6 CD Changer # 468 404 for sale $225 BMW 6 CD Changer # 468 014 for sale $200 BMW 6 CD Changer light gray cover for trunk mounted Changers $30. AA Cold air intake system for most E36 cars, heat shield, intake pipe, K&N filter w/ instructions, $275. Send email or call 865-694-3088 Evan Evans President Smoky Mountain BMW CCA
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#5. Front Strut Question-long - from Steve Stoner
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Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 18:40:41 -0400 From: Steve Stoner <sstoner@treev.com> Subject: Front Strut Question-long Well I got up early and put the M3 up on stands, removed the wheels. Doing some PM before track time later this month. I fabricated a diff drain/fill plug removal tool and drained the diff and tranny to recieve some Redline when it arrives next week. Took down the JTD under panel for some remedial work on the inner fender liners. Bent some pretty stiff sheet metal and riveted on some new flanges to attache the underpanel. Changed the air cleaner and cleaned up the air box. There was the skelatel remnants with feathers attached of a rather small bird in the air box. Removed the inner baffle, which at the moment is cheaper than a CAIS. At 67K with the car running on the original shocks it definately needs some new shocks. I've read the procedures for both cut and gut Koni and modifing bump stops on the Bilstiens. Labor favors the Bilstiens. Cost favors the Koni's by a small margin. I've had Bilstiens on a 2002, and an e28 so the easy choice is habit and go with the Bils. I do remember my one rogue 2002 buddy who went against the grain and was running Konis. I never drove his car, but riding in it did give me pause. The shocks had a different flavor than Bilstiens, controlled for sure but not as harsh is maybe the way to describe it. So on to the questions: 1) After trimming bumpstops, is the Bilstien sport for an M3 (as appear on Turners site) compatible with the stock springs? I don't want to lower the car and can't swing the cost of springs anyway. 2) The Bently says remove the strut with the steering knuckle/hub intact. Looking under there it sure looks like you could remove three bolts holding the strut to the steering arm/hub, two at the bottom, and one up higer and leave the hub/rotor etc. there. Am I missing something here? There must be some good reason to remove the whole thing, anybody know of one? 3) and, any opinions on the Bilstien/Koni choice,any body feeling prosaic and can describe the differences in ride/feel/control/street/track. I am starting my second season of driving schools, but of couse I have to live with the car on a daily basis. TIA Steve Stoner 97M3 Steve Stoner
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Front Strut Question-long - from DocWyte
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Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 16:05:09 -0700 (PDT) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Front Strut Question-long I've got koni sa's on my M3 with stock springs and couldn't be happier. They give a nice controlled stock like ride when they're on soft, but crank them up and the car handles great. You can change the attitude (oversteer, understeer) with the shocks. No monkeying around with bumpstops is necessary. -josh --- Steve Stoner <sstoner@treev.com> wrote: > Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 18:40:41 -0400 > From: Steve Stoner <sstoner@treev.com> > Subject: Front Strut Question-long > > Well I got up early and put the M3 up on stands, > removed the wheels. Doing > some PM before track time later this month. I > fabricated a diff drain/fill > plug removal tool and drained the diff and tranny > to recieve some Redline > when it arrives next week. Took down the JTD under > panel for some remedial > work on the inner fender liners. Bent some pretty > stiff sheet metal and > riveted on some new flanges to attache the > underpanel. Changed the air > cleaner and cleaned up the air box. There was the > skelatel remnants with > feathers attached of a rather small bird in the air > box. Removed the inner > baffle, which at the moment is cheaper than a CAIS. > > At 67K with the car running on the original shocks > it definately needs some > new shocks. I've read the procedures for both cut > and gut Koni and modifing > bump stops on the Bilstiens. Labor favors the > Bilstiens. Cost favors the > Koni's by a small margin. I've had Bilstiens on a > 2002, and an e28 so the > easy choice is habit and go with the Bils. I do > remember my one rogue 2002 > buddy who went against the grain and was running > Konis. I never drove his > car, but riding in it did give me pause. The shocks > had a different flavor > than Bilstiens, controlled for sure but not as harsh > is maybe the way to > describe it. > > So on to the questions: > 1) After trimming bumpstops, is the Bilstien sport > for an M3 (as appear on > Turners site) compatible with the stock springs? I > don't want to lower the > car and can't swing the cost of springs anyway. > > 2) The Bently says remove the strut with the > steering knuckle/hub intact. > Looking under there it sure looks like you could > remove three bolts holding > the strut to the steering arm/hub, two at the > bottom, and one up higer and > leave the hub/rotor etc. there. Am I missing > something here? There must be > some good reason to remove the whole thing, anybody > know of one? > > 3) and, any opinions on the Bilstien/Koni choice,any > body feeling prosaic > and can describe the differences in > ride/feel/control/street/track. I am > starting my second season of driving schools, but of > couse I have to live > with the car on a daily basis. > TIA > Steve Stoner > 97M3 > Steve Stoner > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > ===== __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM). http://calendar.yahoo.com
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#7. brake question - from Jeremy Lucas
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Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 20:36:24 -0400 From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> Subject: brake question I was at MidOhio this weekend and noticing something a little more about the brakes than I had in the past. At the end of the back straight, where your braking and downshifting, at the point at which you get down to third gear the engine RPMs are higher and you can feel what I can only describe a an increase in vacuum to the booster (due to the higher RPMs from downshifting) that tends to pull the pedal back up a bit in it's stroke. Anybody else notice that? Jeremy Lucas 95 M3 ps. Also, one of the guys at the track told me Turner Cool Willys are rebadged Porterfield R4s. Anybody know if that's true? They are both described as Carbon Kevlar and they both have the same part number on the box: 394 fr / 396 rr. Maybe that number describes the brake shoe type but it makes me suspicious.... http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/pads.html http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html/index.asp
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Front Strut Question-long - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Sun, 08 Jun 2003 07:19:40 -0700 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Front Strut Question-long I prefer the adjustability of the Konis. You can have them set fairly soft for stock springs on the street. Or, you can tighten them up for DEs. As was stated earlier, you can tune your handling. Bilsteins aren't adjustable. The cut-n-gut isn't all that difficult. If you do decide on the Konis and you think you'll experiment with different settings, do yourself a favor and get a set of Ground Control rear shock mounts. They'll allow you to easily remove the rear shocks from under the car without the need of a helper. The JT Design RSMs may also work this way. Not sure. To remove the front struts, detatch the brake lines, ABS sensors and brake pad wear sensor from the strut housings. Unbolt the swaybar end links from the strut housings. Disconnect the 3 bolts that hold the struts to the steering arm and put something under the brake/hub assy to support it. Remove the top 3 strut hat nuts and drop that baby outta there. Good luck - Jay At 05:52 PM 6/7/03 -0500, you wrote: >Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 18:40:41 -0400 >From: Steve Stoner <sstoner@treev.com> >Subject: Front Strut Question-long > >Well I got up early and put the M3 up on stands, removed the wheels. Doing >some PM before track time later this month. I fabricated a diff drain/fill >plug removal tool and drained the diff and tranny to recieve some Redline >when it arrives next week. Took down the JTD under panel for some remedial >work on the inner fender liners. Bent some pretty stiff sheet metal and >riveted on some new flanges to attache the underpanel. Changed the air >cleaner and cleaned up the air box. There was the skelatel remnants with >feathers attached of a rather small bird in the air box. Removed the inner >baffle, which at the moment is cheaper than a CAIS. > >At 67K with the car running on the original shocks it definately needs some >new shocks. I've read the procedures for both cut and gut Koni and modifing >bump stops on the Bilstiens. Labor favors the Bilstiens. Cost favors the >Koni's by a small margin. I've had Bilstiens on a 2002, and an e28 so the >easy choice is habit and go with the Bils. I do remember my one rogue 2002 >buddy who went against the grain and was running Konis. I never drove his >car, but riding in it did give me pause. The shocks had a different flavor >than Bilstiens, controlled for sure but not as harsh is maybe the way to >describe it. > >So on to the questions: >1) After trimming bumpstops, is the Bilstien sport for an M3 (as appear on >Turners site) compatible with the stock springs? I don't want to lower the >car and can't swing the cost of springs anyway. > >2) The Bently says remove the strut with the steering knuckle/hub intact. >Looking under there it sure looks like you could remove three bolts holding >the strut to the steering arm/hub, two at the bottom, and one up higer and >leave the hub/rotor etc. there. Am I missing something here? There must be >some good reason to remove the whole thing, anybody know of one? > >3) and, any opinions on the Bilstien/Koni choice,any body feeling prosaic >and can describe the differences in ride/feel/control/street/track. I am >starting my second season of driving schools, but of couse I have to live >with the car on a daily basis. > TIA >Steve Stoner >97M3 >Steve Stoner > > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: >Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > > >
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#9. factory speed limiter - from Richard Dahlka
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Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 13:46:44 -0400 From: "Richard Dahlka" <rickd@swfla.rr.com> Subject: factory speed limiter Does Conforti software alone defeat the factory speed limiter (137 mph)? = Thanks. Rick Dahlka 95 M3 CCA 104039
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Front Strut Question-long - from DocWyte
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Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 10:50:27 -0700 (PDT) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Front Strut Question-long Koni has an externally adjustable rear shock for our cars. No need to remove them from the car to adjust them, you just cut a small "window" in the rear trunk carpet and access the top of the shock from inside the trunk. I've had them in the car for over 6 months now and they rock, particularly since I auto-x and there's no way I'd be dropping the rear shocks in between runs to fine tune the shocks. -josh --- "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> wrote: > Date: Sun, 08 Jun 2003 07:19:40 -0700 > From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Front Strut Question-long > > I prefer the adjustability of the Konis. You can > have them set fairly soft > for stock springs on the street. Or, you can > tighten them up for DEs. As > was stated earlier, you can tune your handling. > Bilsteins aren't adjustable. > > The cut-n-gut isn't all that difficult. If you do > decide on the Konis and > you think you'll experiment with different settings, > do yourself a favor > and get a set of Ground Control rear shock mounts. > They'll allow you to > easily remove the rear shocks from under the car > without the need of a > helper. The JT Design RSMs may also work this way. > Not sure. > > To remove the front struts, detatch the brake lines, > ABS sensors and brake > pad wear sensor from the strut housings. Unbolt the > swaybar end links from > the strut housings. Disconnect the 3 bolts that > hold the struts to the > steering arm and put something under the brake/hub > assy to support it. > Remove the top 3 strut hat nuts and drop that baby > outta there. > > Good luck - Jay > > > At 05:52 PM 6/7/03 -0500, you wrote: > >Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 18:40:41 -0400 > >From: Steve Stoner <sstoner@treev.com> > >Subject: Front Strut Question-long > > > >Well I got up early and put the M3 up on stands, > removed the wheels. Doing > >some PM before track time later this month. I > fabricated a diff drain/fill > >plug removal tool and drained the diff and tranny > to recieve some Redline > >when it arrives next week. Took down the JTD under > panel for some remedial > >work on the inner fender liners. Bent some pretty > stiff sheet metal and > >riveted on some new flanges to attache the > underpanel. Changed the air > >cleaner and cleaned up the air box. There was the > skelatel remnants with > >feathers attached of a rather small bird in the air > box. Removed the inner > >baffle, which at the moment is cheaper than a CAIS. > > > >At 67K with the car running on the original shocks > it definately needs some > >new shocks. I've read the procedures for both cut > and gut Koni and modifing > >bump stops on the Bilstiens. Labor favors the > Bilstiens. Cost favors the > >Koni's by a small margin. I've had Bilstiens on a > 2002, and an e28 so the > >easy choice is habit and go with the Bils. I do > remember my one rogue 2002 > >buddy who went against the grain and was running > Konis. I never drove his > >car, but riding in it did give me pause. The > shocks had a different flavor > >than Bilstiens, controlled for sure but not as > harsh is maybe the way to > >describe it. > > > >So on to the questions: > >1) After trimming bumpstops, is the Bilstien sport > for an M3 (as appear on > >Turners site) compatible with the stock springs? I > don't want to lower the > >car and can't swing the cost of springs anyway. > > > >2) The Bently says remove the strut with the > steering knuckle/hub intact. > >Looking under there it sure looks like you could > remove three bolts holding > >the strut to the steering arm/hub, two at the > bottom, and one up higer and > >leave the hub/rotor etc. there. Am I missing > something here? There must be > >some good reason to remove the whole thing, anybody > know of one? > > > >3) and, any opinions on the Bilstien/Koni > choice,any body feeling prosaic > >and can describe the differences in > ride/feel/control/street/track. I am > >starting my second season of driving schools, but > of couse I have to live > >with the car on a daily basis. > > TIA > >Steve Stoner > >97M3 > >Steve Stoner > > > > > > > >************************************************* > >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > >Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > >BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > > >DIGEST INFORMATION: > >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > >************************************************* > > > > > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > ===== __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM). http://calendar.yahoo.com