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#1. Interstate MTP 91 - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 23:49:28 EDT From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Interstate MTP 91 Guys, Is this a 'add water to' battery? TIA, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA BSP Champion '01 & '02
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#2. FS: Bridgestone S02 PPs, E46 jack pads - from Chris Papademetrious
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Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 00:34:27 -0400 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispy@ieee.org> Subject: FS: Bridgestone S02 PPs, E46 jack pads I have two Bridgestone Potenza S02 Pole Position tires, 235-40R17. $25 + shipping each. I decided to upgrade to the S03s early, and these were the two with decent tread worth saving. If you buy both, I'll bind them together so UPS considers them to be one package. I suck at judging tread percentages, so just look here: http://phpix.planetb.net/?mode=album&album=chrispy/misc/tires I also have four E46 jack pads that I've been meaning to try the following with: http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/misc/e36_jack_points.html but never got around to it. I'll send these out for $20 including shipping if anyone wants 'em. - Chris
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#3. RE: [E36M3] oil pump nut DRAMA - from K.C. Boyce
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Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 08:25:04 -0400 From: "K.C. Boyce" <kcb@abcgroup-inc.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] oil pump nut DRAMA Gruppe: Thanks for the info -- I'm glad I asked. The oil pump situation on my Eta was MUCH different from the S52! On the Eta, the oil pump was driven by a shaft coming from somewhere up by the intermediate pulley for the timing belt... KC Boyce '97 M3 Crew Cab
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#4. [E36M3] Oil pump nut info - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 06:12:32 -0700 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> Subject: [E36M3] Oil pump nut info For those of you doing the Loctite deal on your oil pump nut. Be sure to use hi temp, red loctite. Not the standard red Loctite. I believe it's formula 272, but not sure. I got mine thru a CarQuest store. They had to order it. Jay
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#5. oil pump nut needed quick! - from Chris Conner
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Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 09:18:54 -0400 From: "Chris Conner" <chris@digital7.com> Subject: oil pump nut needed quick! I dropped my oil pan yesterday to fix the oil pump nut, and it's nowhere to be found! I am suspicious that Princeton BMW stole it when I told them not to go ahead with the repairs. Anyway, no dealer within 100 miles of me can get one by the weekend. Does anyone have one?! Part # is 11 41 1 735 137 I'm willing to pick it up anywhere within 100 miles of Yardley, PA. Thanks! Chris
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#6. Re: Running hot? - from marc@plante.com
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Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 06:45:58 -0700 (PDT) From: marc@plante.com Subject: Re: Running hot? 1) How old is the water pump? Impellor starting to slip and letting the car run hot? It's almost best just to change water pumps every 60k. 2) Thermostat sticking? 3) Maybe secondary cooling fan, though mine is dead, and I don't have any temp problems with my car (including track sessions where I need to dip down to 2nd and rev it hard to keep up with those damn 3.0L cars). Marc Plante E36 325i, 213k Vienna, VA Marc Plante marc@plante.com
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#7. sway bar links (front) - from Gary A. Preece
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Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 10:31:34 -0400 From: "Gary A. Preece" <gapreece@entreky.net> Subject: sway bar links (front) Hey Guys, I replaced my links 25K ago and now one is shot again. There was a klunking sound on the passenger side that was all too familiar. The nut was tight, but there was considerable play where the ball joint is located. Should I just replace with Lemforder (sp?) again or go with the adjustable ones like the ones at Bimmerworld? Do these normally last longer and I just had bad luck? I have not replaced the rears. Would you recommend I do this? Stock bars with aftermarket harder bushings f and r. (the bushings alone made a huge difference) Thanks. Gary --- [This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus] [Service Provided by: Entreky.Net]
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#8. Re: [E36 M3] Meltdown - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 09:34:05 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: [E36 M3] Meltdown A couple of days ago my M3 suffered a short circuit inside the large wiring chase underneath the HVAC air intake at the base of the windshield. Cursory inspection suggests that probably no more than a dozen wires are fried - I can't be sure until I tease the wires apart and take more careful stock. It does appear that at least one wire, and probably a couple more, is damaged beyond this visible area, up toward the main fuse/relay panel. Damage seems to be to smaller control wires, not larger power cables. The wiring harness in this area appears essentially modular. On the passenger side there's a big harness going to the ECU, and a couple of other going to other multi-pin connectors. The driver side seems somewhat similar. This opens up the possibility of unplugging and removing the whole shebang. I see two possible fixes: 1) Identify and individually replace the damaged wires. I do have the electronic/soldering skills and tools to do this. However there's risk of error, and there may be some difficulty in properly identifying wires whose colour-coded jackets are blackened. 2) Buy the necessary new sections of harness, assuming they really can be separated as it appears, and reassemble from new. The ETK shows only a single harness part in this area, "Cable harness sector front," which appears from the primitive diagram to include every cable forward of the firewall (headlights, etc.). Option #1 is obviously cheaper, but my objective is to achieve the best outcome, with cost very much secondary. Option #2 will probably be quite expensive (parts cost), and life being what it is will doubtless not turn out to be as straightforward as one might hope. (There's a possible option #3, to recover the harness from a wreck. However it may be hard to find one of the right model year and with the right optional equipment. Also risk of the harness being damaged.) Anyone BTDT, or have opinions, words of wisdom, etc? By the way, the car still runs, although with some anomalies (stuff that doesn't turn off with the ignition, for instance.) Obviously the battery is disconnected for safety, and the car parked for the duration. Neil 96 M3 - lightly fried
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#9. Lip spoiler picture needed - from James Clay
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Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 11:30:08 -0400 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Lip spoiler picture needed Does anyone have a picture of the E39 M5 trunk lip spoiler mounted on the E36 trunk? I need one for a proposal I am working on and don't have my digital camera with me now. Thanks. James James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance 540.639.9648
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#10. rusty rotor hats - from daanesh chanduwadia
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Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 18:52:34 -0400 From: "daanesh chanduwadia" <daanesh@hotmail.com> Subject: rusty rotor hats i think scott's right - the brembos rust a lot more than any OEM rotor -= when i worked at boston performance group we'd order our brembo hats 'ca= dmium plated' from a place called KVR performance in Canada. I'm happy with my floating rotors (they have aluminum hats and other bene= fits) and don't plan on using anything else... but then again i don't go = through many rotors. | daaneshGet more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://expl= orer.msn.com
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#11. Re: [E36M3] oil pump nut DRAMA - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 11:31:43 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] oil pump nut DRAMA Another problem will be trying to find a nut that is left-handed threaded. I doubt you will find any pre-manufactured crushed nuts. The best you will be able to do is make you own eccentric nut from the current nut on the oil pump. Good luck! Lowell Seaton '95 M3/2 ----------------------------------- chrispy@ieee.org writes: > The eccentric nuts I've used are slightly crushed nuts which thread on, but > > require some work to turn. It would be the perfect sort of thing in this > situation, if there were one skinny enough. You can see what I'm talking > about by going to http://www.mcmaster.com/ and doing a search on "deformed > thread nuts." There's a pesky nut on my other non-BMW car which holds the > shift linkage selection lever on the transmission, but always vibrates > off. Even Loctite doesn't always hold it, due to the constant tugging on > the bracket. The eccentric nuts (Stover nuts) I used worked perfectly! > > - Chris