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#1. Re: sway bar link - from Steve Klein
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Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 11:19:23 -0700 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Re: sway bar link Hi, Gary- I just replaced my fronts with units from Turner, one stock and one adjustable and I like it very much for a) eliminating the klunk and b) being able to add preload. Can I ask what bushings you're using for your stock sways and where you got them? Mine are the originals and I'd like to replace them with something firmer. Thanks, Steve
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#2. Oil Pump Nut - from Patrick Dargan
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Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 12:23:35 -0400 From: "Patrick Dargan" <darg01@earthlink.net> Subject: Oil Pump Nut ------=_NextPart_001_000D_01C330DD.72152580 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Blank "...Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 09:18:54 -0400 From: "Chris Conner" <chris@digital7.com> Subject: oil pump nut needed quick! I dropped my oil pan yesterday to fix the oil pump nut,.." When you have time, would you consider writing up the procedure e.g. how many other things have to come off to get to it, etc., or any specific tips. Thanks. Patrick Dargan ------=_NextPart_001_000D_01C330DD.72152580 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD><TITLE id=3DridTitle>Blank</TITLE> <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; = charset=3Dwindows-1252"><BASE=20 href=3D"file://C:\Program Files\Common Files\Microsoft = Shared\Stationery\"> <STYLE>BODY { MARGIN-TOP: 25px; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; MARGIN-LEFT: 25px; COLOR: #000000; = FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica } P.msoNormal { MARGIN-TOP: 0px; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; MARGIN-LEFT: 0px; COLOR: #ffffcc; = FONT-FAMILY: Helvetica, "Times New Roman" } LI.msoNormal { MARGIN-TOP: 0px; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; MARGIN-LEFT: 0px; COLOR: #ffffcc; = FONT-FAMILY: Helvetica, "Times New Roman" } </STYLE> <META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1141" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY id=3DridBody bgColor=3D#ffffff=20 background=3Dcid:000b01c330fe$f91f2460$dee995cd@b7p3h01> <DIV> </DIV> <P>"...Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 09:18:54 -0400<BR>From: "Chris Conner" = <<A=20 href=3D"mailto:chris@digital7.com">chris@digital7.com</A>><BR>Subject:= oil pump=20 nut needed quick!<BR><BR>I dropped my oil pan yesterday to fix the oil = pump=20 nut,.." </P> <P>When you have time, would you consider writing up the procedure e.g. = how many=20 other things have to come off to get to it, etc., or = any specific=20 tips.</P> <P>Thanks.</P> <P>Patrick Dargan</P></BODY></HTML> ------=_NextPart_001_000D_01C330DD.72152580--
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#3. Fuel Starvation Kits - from twisty M3
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Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 12:22:17 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Fuel Starvation Kits Listers, Okay, so I'm finding this fuel starvation issue to be a real PITA. It's started happening even before I get to 1/2 tank now, and that's just irritating. Plus, I'm sure it forces me into a momentary lean condition, which can't be good. I see that Bimmerworld has a couple of kits they sell. If anything, I'd probably just go with the Stage 1 kit, which supposedly uses all but that last 2 gallons before starvation. I don't see myself going that low on a track day, simply because I'm usually in other cars most of the time, but I still often use at least a 1/2 tank of gas myself when there's enough free track time. It's $349 and supposedly a one-hour install, on the ground with simple tools. Sounds like something I can handle. ;) Let me know if anyone has experience/impressions with this kit. Jonathan L. _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
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#4. tradin' paint - from Michael Gilbert
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Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 16:40:07 -0400 From: "Michael Gilbert" <mjg2002@attbi.com> Subject: tradin' paint My daughter and I watched Montoya and Gordon having so much fun yesterday, and she was all fired up to step into my race car, so we had our own version of "Tradin' Paint" today. See the pictures for the results - like Montoya and Gordon, I ended up overdriving her vehicle while she underdrove mine... Maybe in a few years we'll try it again! Regards to all, -Mike 97 M3 IP #121
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#5. RE: [E36M3] tradin' paint - from Michael Gilbert
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Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 17:08:28 -0400 From: "Michael Gilbert" <mjg2002@attbi.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] tradin' paint try this link... http://bimmer.roadfly.org/bmw/forums/e36m3/forum.php?postid=3389422&page=1 -----Original Message----- From: Michael Gilbert [mailto:mjg2002@attbi.com] Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2003 4:51 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] tradin' paint Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 16:40:07 -0400 From: "Michael Gilbert" <mjg2002@attbi.com> Subject: tradin' paint My daughter and I watched Montoya and Gordon having so much fun yesterday, and she was all fired up to step into my race car, so we had our own version of "Tradin' Paint" today. See the pictures for the results - like Montoya and Gordon, I ended up overdriving her vehicle while she underdrove mine... Maybe in a few years we'll try it again! Regards to all, -Mike 97 M3 IP #121 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#6. E36 Dyna-Batt group buy is on! - from Chris Papademetrious
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Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 17:41:47 -0400 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispy@ieee.org> Subject: E36 Dyna-Batt group buy is on! >I spoke to Scott at Portable Power Systems (http://www.gotbatteries.com) >today. He has approved our BMW club group purchase! It actually takes >the form of a discount code. In your shopping cart on their webpage, you >will see a 'Discount' button. Simply click on that and enter the code >BMW, and you will receive 10% off any sealed lead acid batteries in your >order. The discount was approved under the following conditions: > >1. Discounts apply to online orders only, no phone orders. >2. The code 'BMW' must be entered in the Discount window prior to checkout. >3. They will keep the coupon code activated until they see activity die >down, then they will end the offer. > >I just purchased a Genesis G16EP battery and Genesis SAE terminal kit, for >$72.90 plus $12.93 shipping and handling. Here are the two items I bought: > > Hawker 12 Volt/16 Ah 0769-2007 SLA - Genesis (G16EP) Sealed Lead > Acid Battery > PPS SAE Battery Posts Brass - SAE Battery Terminal Set for > Genesis Batteries > >Russ has several battery cassette adapters left to mount this battery in >the stock E36 trunk location, and has indicated that he is able to make >more. If you are interested in this upgrade, I suggest you buy the >battery now (while the coupon is active) and then procure Russ's cassette. Everyone, My Genesis SLA battery just arrived. Boy, I didn't realize how small and light it was until I got my hands on it! Here are a couple of pictures - one of the custom terminal kit that PPS provides, and one of the battery in Russ's mounting cassette: http://phpix.planetb.net/?mode=album&album=chrispy/cars/genesis I can't wait to get this thing in there and shed all those pounds now. :) If anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask. Has anyone else taken advantage of this group buy? - Chris
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Interstate MTP 91 - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 17:54:30 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Interstate MTP 91 At 08:50 PM 6/11/03, Mdriver13@aol.com wrote: >Is this a 'add water to' battery? Mine is. Jim Bassett
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Running Ho...uh, Warm - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 17:57:31 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Running Ho...uh, Warm At 08:40 PM 6/11/03, Nancy Fluharty wrote: >After rock-steady straight-up 12:00 for the 4 months I've owned the car, >this week I've noticed it creeping higher. On my 18-mile commute, almost >entirely at 60-70 mph, the needle will slowly rise beyond the one o'clock >mark (with two o'clock being the red zone) and then move slowly in a narrow >range about that mark. Sounds like a sticky thermostat. If it's sticking such that the car is getting warm/hot, I would suggest replacing it ASAP. My 2 cents, Jim Bassett
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#9. [E36 M3] Meltdown - from Lew Becker
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Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 18:40:17 -0700 From: "Lew Becker" <lmbeckercfls@earthlink.net> Subject: [E36 M3] Meltdown Condolences are about all I can offer; but, I was wondering whether you have any idea as to what caused the short -- it seems to me that the fuses and/or fuse blocks should have prevented damage to the extent you described. Lew Becker -----Original Message----- -------------------- 8 -------------------- Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 09:34:05 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: [E36 M3] Meltdown A couple of days ago my M3 suffered a short circuit inside the large wiring chase underneath the HVAC air intake at the base of the windshield. Cursory inspection suggests that probably no more than a dozen wires are fried - I can't be sure until I tease the wires apart and take more careful stock. It does appear that at least one wire, and probably a couple more, is damaged beyond this visible area, up toward the main fuse/relay panel. Damage seems to be to smaller control wires, not larger power cables. The wiring harness in this area appears essentially modular. On the passenger side there's a big harness going to the ECU, and a couple of other going to other multi-pin connectors. The driver side seems somewhat similar. This opens up the possibility of unplugging and removing the whole shebang. I see two possible fixes: 1) Identify and individually replace the damaged wires. I do have the electronic/soldering skills and tools to do this. However there's risk of error, and there may be some difficulty in properly identifying wires whose colour-coded jackets are blackened. 2) Buy the necessary new sections of harness, assuming they really can be separated as it appears, and reassemble from new. The ETK shows only a single harness part in this area, "Cable harness sector front," which appears from the primitive diagram to include every cable forward of the firewall (headlights, etc.). Option #1 is obviously cheaper, but my objective is to achieve the best outcome, with cost very much secondary. Option #2 will probably be quite expensive (parts cost), and life being what it is will doubtless not turn out to be as straightforward as one might hope. (There's a possible option #3, to recover the harness from a wreck. However it may be hard to find one of the right model year and with the right optional equipment. Also risk of the harness being damaged.) Anyone BTDT, or have opinions, words of wisdom, etc? By the way, the car still runs, although with some anomalies (stuff that doesn't turn off with the ignition, for instance.) Obviously the battery is disconnected for safety, and the car parked for the duration. Neil 96 M3 - lightly fried
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#10. How to deal with long URLs (Useful, but OT) - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 09:04:19 -0400 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: How to deal with long URLs (Useful, but OT) (Cross-posting to several lists, for maximum exposure...) All, I ran across a website that allows you to take long, ugly URLs and transform them into something much shorter and readable. The website is: http://www.snipurl.com/teindex.php Basically, it works this way: You're on a webpage, and want to send the URL to someone. However, the URL is long, and wraps to a second (or even third or fourth line), and the pasting process doesn't work too well. Or, because the URL wraps across lines, the link is no longer 'clickable'. The solution: 1) Open a second browser window (CNTL+N, or File-->New-->Window), and navigate to: http://www.snipurl.com/teindex.php 2) Back on the original browser window, highlight the URL for the page, and copy it to the clipboard. Usually, this is simply done by clicking on the link in the Address box for the browser, and using CNTL+C or Edit-->Copy. 3) Go to the second browser window, and paste the link into THE LONG URL box 4) Go to the Nickname box on the snipurl page, and type in a nickname. There are some restrictions on the characters that can be used. Basically, no spaces or special characters. 5) Click the Snip URL! button. The shortened URL will be put into your clipboard, as well as listed on the results screen. 6) Go to your email program (or browser window with email opened), and simply paste the shortened URL into your message (CNTL+V or Edit-->Paste). That's it! I hope you find this useful. Ron Buchalski BMWCCA #76387 1995 E36 M3 1993 E34 525iT 1999 Mazda Miata _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus