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#1. What's procedure to disassemble caliper piston using air? - from Geof McLaughlin
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Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 09:33:37 -0400 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@attbi.com> Subject: What's procedure to disassemble caliper piston using air? My name is Geof and I am an air tool newbie. There, I admitted it. ;-) Anyway, what is the procedure for popping out the piston in the brake caliper (off the car) using air? What air fitting do I use? a standard blow gun? Thanks. Geof
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#2. [E36M3] tradin' paint - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 09:38:13 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: [E36M3] tradin' paint > try this link... > http://bimmer.roadfly.org/bmw/forums/e36m3/forum.php?postid=3389422&page=1 It appears it was a little unfair, you didn't readjust the seat height for your daughter so that she had a proper view. Of course she "underdrove" the car, she couldn't see where she was going... It appears you may have been a little hard on her equipment too... Later, Rich
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#3. Water and Ice / HVAC control - from Newman, Christopher
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Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 10:10:55 -0400 From: "Newman, Christopher" <CNewman@LSAC.org> Subject: Water and Ice / HVAC control Good morning, Two weeks ago, I posted a question to the list concerning my HVAC control (1996 M3, 66K). Sometimes I hear it cycling on and off, and sometimes I don't. When I hear it, the HVAC works and I get air from the vents. When I don't hear it, the HVAC does NOT work. And if I don't hear it and then shut the car off, I hear a whirring sound from the engine bay similar to shutting off a vacuum cleaner. The temperature gauge always behaved normally regardless of whether the HVAC was functioning or not (needle would point straight up to 12:00). However, over the past week or so, it seems the temperature gauge isn't as constant. Driving back roads in 70 to 80 degree weather, the needle goes just a hair past 12:00. But if I get on the highway, the needle will drop to about 11:00. This seems to make sense (more air into the radiator on the highway) but I don't remember this happening in the past. At any rate, last night, after driving for a half hour with the needle at 12:00 and the HVAC and Air Conditioner both OFF, I shut the car off and heard a hissing sound. I opened the hood and the radiator, hoses, fans, and coolant level all looked fine. Then I looked underneath the car and saw a small pool of WATER and a small chunk of ICE on the ground underneath the engine close to the passenger-side front tire. Is this Water and Ice related to my HVAC control issue ? Or is this another issue altogether ? Thanks for any insight you can provide.
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#4. Oil Pump Nut Procedure - from Chris Conner
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Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 10:27:26 -0400 From: "Chris Conner" <chris@digital7.com> Subject: Oil Pump Nut Procedure I will take some photos during reassembly, including the safety wiring. I will also do a write-up ASAP. Chris -------------------- 2 -------------------- Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 12:23:35 -0400 From: "Patrick Dargan" <darg01@earthlink.net> Subject: Oil Pump Nut "I dropped my oil pan yesterday to fix the oil pump nut,.." When you have time, would you consider writing up the procedure e.g. how many other things have to come off to get to it, etc., or any specific tips. Thanks. Patrick Dargan
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#5. Re: E36M3 #3206 - from perryinricva@attbi.com
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Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 14:39:26 +0000 From: perryinricva@attbi.com Subject: Re: E36M3 #3206 Yes, it is add water and you should always ask for the free vent kit for BMW's when ordering. > > 1. Interstate MTP 91 > by: <Mdriver13@aol.com>
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#6. tirerack - from russell
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Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 07:40:44 -0700 (PDT) From: russell <driver8m3@yahoo.com> Subject: tirerack i ordered new tires/rims from tirerack on wednesday at around 2pm. ups dropped them off at my house less than 24 hours later (standard ups ground). thats damn fast service. i got the fake contours from at italia, with kumho ecsta supras. the rims look very nice, a little more shine to them then the previous version i had. and the kumhos were only $98 each. thats a great price for a pretty decent tire. if anyone wants to buy my old rims/tires, let me know. atp (thats what they used to be called) fake contours with kumho ecsta supras. one rim is slightly bent, and none of them look new any longer (rash, brake dust, etc). the tires all have some tread left, but the car was out of alignment, so the fronts have some eneven wear. russell dakar 99 ===== "democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote."-ben franklin __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM). http://calendar.yahoo.com
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#7. Engine cutting out - from Jason \(RaceBro\)
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Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 07:58:01 -0700 From: "Jason \(RaceBro\)" <racebro@santacruzbicycles.com> Subject: Engine cutting out This has been discussed before, but after a brief search of the archive I was unable to bring up anything useful on the subject. My '95 M is having some issues with acceleration in a somewhat cold state after having been warmed up for about 2-3 minutes. The needle has not yet reached the middle of the guage so I try and keep the revs below 3-3.5k. The problem is that I have to merge onto a major street just around the corner from my house. More and more often, it seems that when I accelerate the car in this semi-warmed state, the power is cut in half momentarily (it seems to bog down) before the car seems to right itself. I've made a list of potential items to check, and was looking for anyone elses thoughts. Dual Mass Flywheel (stock unit on the car) Ignition Coils (plugs are fresh, but the coils are not) Fuel pump (I've never checked it, or had it checked) Thanks! Jason Lombard Santa Cruz Bicycles, Inc. jason@santacruzbicycles.com (831)459-7560 x 30 http://www.santacruzbicycles.com ---
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#8. Tie Rods - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 11:01:29 -0400 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: Tie Rods List, I had my passenger side tie rod frozen for a while. The alignment guy torched the hell out of it and it still won't come loose. The alignment is fine (toe); however the tech left this message on my cell phone: "..we tried everything to break that tie rod lose, we burnt the hell out of it and it still wont come out, one of our tech weighing 235lbs was hanging on it and it still wont come off..." I had a panic attack (where was he hanging from??) As soon as I picked up the car, I heard a clunking sound coming from the passenger side. I have brand new control arms and bushings and upon inspection, there is no play. The tie rod turns easily now (between the rack and the wheel hub). When I turn the rod and bring it back to center the noise goes away. I am thinking maybe the tie rod has come lose/damaged? Since there is no such thing as a stupid question, are tie rods (BTW they are being replaced) a wear item or just the fact that mine got damaged? Is that what contributes to the steering wiggle upon bumps? Any input? Thanks. A.L.
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Tie Rods - from Geof McLaughlin
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Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 12:01:06 -0400 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Tie Rods At 10:10 AM 6/13/2003 -0500, you wrote: >The tie rod turns easily now (between the rack and the wheel hub). When >I turn the rod and bring it back to center the noise goes away. I am >thinking maybe the tie rod has come lose/damaged? Since there is no such >thing as a stupid question, are tie rods (BTW they are being replaced) a >wear item or just the fact that mine got damaged? Tie rods are a wear item as they have a ball joint that attaches to the king pin and surprise, surprise, which let you steer. It sounds as if these techs are morons. There is a lock plate where the tie rod attaches to the steering rack. Maybe your guerrilla mechanics forgot to take it off. >Is that what >contributes to the steering wiggle upon bumps? Possible if the ball joint is going bad. Geof
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Tie Rods - from Geof McLaughlin
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Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 12:04:40 -0400 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Tie Rods Upon rereading your message, I think that I confused your mechanics simply adjusting the tie rod versus replacing them. If the adjusting nuts won't budge, you might as well replace the tie rod. They are fairly cheap through places like Bimmerworld and, as I mentioned in my previous email, are indeed a wear item. Personally I would replace the pair. Geof At 12:01 PM 6/13/2003 -0400, Geof McLaughlin wrote: >At 10:10 AM 6/13/2003 -0500, you wrote: >>The tie rod turns easily now (between the rack and the wheel hub). When >>I turn the rod and bring it back to center the noise goes away. I am >>thinking maybe the tie rod has come lose/damaged? Since there is no such >>thing as a stupid question, are tie rods (BTW they are being replaced) a >>wear item or just the fact that mine got damaged? > >Tie rods are a wear item as they have a ball joint that attaches to the >king pin and surprise, surprise, which let you steer. It sounds as if >these techs are morons. > >There is a lock plate where the tie rod attaches to the steering >rack. Maybe your guerrilla mechanics forgot to take it off. > >>Is that what >>contributes to the steering wiggle upon bumps? > >Possible if the ball joint is going bad. > >Geof