-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. Cooling System Issues - from Nancy Fluharty
Top
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 16:05:53 -0400 From: "Nancy Fluharty" <fluhar@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Cooling System Issues Trying to wrap up my cooling system overhaul, and I need help on two items. 1. Can someone point me to a URL showing the entire undertray assembly (or email me an ETK drawing)? I chose to dismantle the whole thing to gain visibility of the bottom. Having done the job, I realize it all can be done from the top, and I could have just cut the lower hose, which I was replacing anyway. Messy but much easier. Live and learn. 2. Where is the block coolant drain? And what's it look like? Bentley offers a picture of the radiator draincock (duh) but only says "the rear of the block" for the other. My plan is to fill with water, run to check for leaks and normal operation, then drain entire system and add mixed coolant. Reasonable plan? Thanks much to those who have helped me so far. I'll have some more comments upon completion. Bob Fluharty 95 M3 87 325is Cincinnati
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. Re: Caliper rebuild - from RonStygar@aol.com
Top
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 16:20:06 EDT From: RonStygar@aol.com Subject: Re: Caliper rebuild Connect to: http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/brakes/e36_lets_brake_it.html
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. RE: [E36M3] Cooling System Issues - from Murray Roblin
Top
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 14:12:51 -0700 From: "Murray Roblin" <murray@farleyroblin.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Cooling System Issues Bob, I recently posted the ETK images (2) and parts list for the undertray on bimmerforums.com. Do a search on my username, MDR, and you should find the listing - it was in response to a similar query. The block drain is on the block (doh!), on the passenger side, under the exhaust manifold. Its about 60% of the way back from the front. You should be able to see it from underneath. Murray 95 M3 > -----Original Message----- > From: Nancy Fluharty [mailto:fluhar@worldnet.att.net] > Sent: Sunday, June 15, 2003 1:11 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [E36M3] Cooling System Issues > > > Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 16:05:53 -0400 > From: "Nancy Fluharty" <fluhar@worldnet.att.net> > Subject: Cooling System Issues > > Trying to wrap up my cooling system overhaul, and > I need help on two items. > > 1. Can someone point me to a URL showing the > entire undertray assembly (or > email me an ETK drawing)? > I chose to dismantle the whole thing to gain > visibility of the bottom. > Having done the job, I realize it all can be done > from the top, and I could > have just cut the lower hose, which I was > replacing anyway. Messy but much > easier. Live and learn. > > 2. Where is the block coolant drain? And what's > it look like? Bentley offers > a picture of the radiator draincock (duh) but > only says "the rear of the > block" for the other. > > My plan is to fill with water, run to check for > leaks and normal operation, > then drain entire system and add mixed coolant. > Reasonable plan? > > Thanks much to those who have helped me so far. > I'll have some more comments > upon completion. > > Bob Fluharty > 95 M3 > 87 325is > Cincinnati > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting > our sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > > >
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. re: Tie-Downs and T-Hooks - from Rob Verenna
Top
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 20:25:09 -0400 From: Rob Verenna <rob@willraceforbeer.com> Subject: re: Tie-Downs and T-Hooks And here's the reason for t-hooks: http://www.willraceforbeer.com/images/oops.jpg The old shown with the new: http://www.willraceforbeer.com/images/goodandbad.jpg Don't tie down your car by the control arms, even when people who have been towing/racing for longer than you've been alive say "I've been doing it for years with no problems." They must be talking about old British cars or something, because the arms on the E36's are stamped steel and not that strong. - rob '95 M3 '94 325i ITS/JP - now secured by t-hooks :) Mark said: > Someone was asking about t-hooks recently and several of us responded > with sources. > > I just found a better source. > > http://store.sline.com/appCatalogPartsViewList.cfm?BlockID=6929 > > Note that the t-hooks come with a link attached. If your tie-down > hook has a 90 degree bend (rotation) in it, you MUST use a t-hook > with this link on it or the tie-down hook will contact the gas tank > in the back. > > That's bad. > > I solved the problem by having a link welded to the rear hooks, but > this is an easier (read: cheaper) solution.
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. [E36M3] RE: What's procedure to disassemble caliper piston with air? - from Nancy Fluharty
Top
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 19:57:25 -0400 From: "Nancy Fluharty" <fluhar@worldnet.att.net> Subject: [E36M3] RE: What's procedure to disassemble caliper piston with air? Geof McLaughlin wrote: >>If you're interested, there's good caliper rebuild info here: >>http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=21842 >What I found of interest in the above link was the tip to use one of those >portable 12V air compressors/inflators as the air delivery is much, much >less than from a standard air compressor. So I just used my cordless Sears >air compressor (http://tinyurl.com/eavc) and sure enough it worked and did >not expel the piston with much force at all. Great idea! > >Geof You don't need power air at all. I use a bicycle pump and a soft plastic nozzle. Even then it comes out with surprising force. Bob Fluharty 95 M3 87 325is Cincinnati
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. Re: [E36M3] Non "M" Replacement calipers - from Reid Conti
Top
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 11:35:19 -0700 From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Non "M" Replacement calipers The ///M logo, with it's raised lettering, functions as a kind of heat sink to further remove heat from the caliper.. your braking performance will be worse without it. - reid On Friday, Jun 13, 2003, at 11:01 US/Pacific, Mark Dadgar wrote: > Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 10:57:30 -0700 > From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Non "M" Replacement calipers > > Geof McLaughlin at gfmiiilist@attbi.com wrote: >>> I just installed new calipers on my wife's E36 M3/4, and the >>> replacements >>> I bought were matching ate >>> units, though the spot where the ///M logo is on the stock units was >>> glazed over in some way. >>> >>> Are these seconds? or ore they simply not stock, on the car calipers? >> >> Not seconds, merely OEM replacement calipers. In other words, not >> directly >> from BMW but from the manufacturer (ATE) who supplies BMW. >> >>> Any implications? >> >> Yes, you will not be able to brake as well without the "///M" logo. >> LOL. ;-) > > I hear the ///M logo is good for 3 seconds a lap. > > But the Type R logo is good for 5. > > - Mark > -- > mark@pdc-racing.net > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. Indianapolis area service - Hot issue! - from Paul Smith
Top
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 23:15:00 -0500 From: Paul Smith <pauls@ontario.com> Subject: Indianapolis area service - Hot issue! I am in need of a trusting quality service center in the Indy area. I had to leave my M3 at Putnam Park this afternoon :( Please assist if you know of Dreyer, Vaughn, Zionsville, etc. thanks Paul Smith 98M3/4/5 with misfires - but a GREAT track day
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. Is this corrosion on caliper piston bad? - from Dorffer, Rich
Top
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 10:31:42 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Is this corrosion on caliper piston bad? > Does it matter if there is corrosion on a caliper piston that is on the > outer face and on the sides above the dust boot? > One of the pistons in my front brake calipers has this corrosion as seen in > this > picture...http://home.attbi.com/~gfmiii/Images/M3_Front_Caliper_Piston.jpg. > The sides and bottom of the piston below the dust boot is in very good > condition. IMO, shouldn't be an issue. Clean it up as much as you can with a Scotchbrite pad and you can even paint that area if you really like, as long as it is above the seal groove. I will media blast those areas (completely avoiding the polished area of the bore) if they are corroded like that then shoot on some high temp, rust resistant paint. Regards, Rich
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. Re: [E36M3] Is this corrosion on caliper piston bad? - from Gerald Low
Top
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 11:07:20 -0400 From: "Gerald Low" <gerry@parallel-mkt.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Is this corrosion on caliper piston bad? Turner used to sell stainless steel pistons. Any personal experiences or thoughts? Gerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Monday, June 16, 2003 10:40 AM Subject: [E36M3] Is this corrosion on caliper piston bad? Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 10:31:42 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Is this corrosion on caliper piston bad? > Does it matter if there is corrosion on a caliper piston that is on the > outer face and on the sides above the dust boot? > One of the pistons in my front brake calipers has this corrosion as seen in > this > picture...http://home.attbi.com/~gfmiii/Images/M3_Front_Caliper_Piston.jpg. > The sides and bottom of the piston below the dust boot is in very good > condition. IMO, shouldn't be an issue. Clean it up as much as you can with a Scotchbrite pad and you can even paint that area if you really like, as long as it is above the seal groove. I will media blast those areas (completely avoiding the polished area of the bore) if they are corroded like that then shoot on some high temp, rust resistant paint. Regards, Rich ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. Battery for E30 325 and E36 M3 - from Carey Probst
Top
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 12:08:06 -0400 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: Battery for E30 325 and E36 M3 In rebuilding the 325 as primarily a track car I need a new battery. Will my M3 battery replace the 325 battery? I'd like to put the new good battery in the M3 and move the existing one to the 325. Also, is there any reason not to run a standard remote starter switch to the starter relay? BavAuto sells a gadget for $90 that plugs into the diagnostic port but that seems excessive. I already have a remote starter switch. Thanks Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, '86 325e w/i cam BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters JC CAIed and Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced