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#1. Re: CD43 - from RonStygar@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 00:49:26 EDT From: RonStygar@aol.com Subject: Re: CD43 CD43 is a I-BUS unit. Not sure that your changer is.
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#2. RE: Cams - from Pedro Aceves
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Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 00:22:00 -0600 From: Pedro Aceves <aceves@mac.com> Subject: RE: Cams I have some out of a 3.2 L with about 20K miles on them. Will those work for you ? On Thursday, June 19, 2003, at 10:30 PM, E36M3 wrote: > -------------------- 6 -------------------- > Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 16:28:30 -0400 > From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> > Subject: stock 3.0 cams > > Does anyone have a set to get rid of? Please email with price, I need > these > quickly! Thanks. Can swap plus $$$ for Schricks as well. > > James > > > James Clay > http://www.bimmerworld.com > Engineered BMW Performance > 540.639.9648
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#3. Water logged carpet - from GGeick6055@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 08:19:04 EDT From: GGeick6055@aol.com Subject: Water logged carpet Tim, I am currently dealing with this problem. Easy to check the drain opening, it is on the passenger's side corner of the cowl exiting just above the floor of the cowl towards the engine (valve cover). Remove the wipers and cowl cover, check it then pour some water in. This may not be the problem. My drain is fine but the seal between the heater box/firewall is leaking. Water normally hits this area before running down the drain and the leak comes out in back of your center console. HOW DO YOU FIX THIS LEAK? Is there a replacable seal or do you try to loosen the heater box and squirt sealer in and retighten? As for drying your car. Take the seats out (read directions) and the trim along the floor of the doors and foot well areas, roll (push) the carpet back and wet vac. Use a dehumidifier and 30-50 watt reflector lights directed at the foam under the carpet. Becareful of the light bulbs, even low wattage get a little hot. You could use higher wattage above the carpet. Gordon '92 325IS drying out for the second time! In a message dated 6/20/03 12:39:40 AM Eastern Daylight Time, e36m3@bmw-m.net writes: > > Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 16:21:51 -0700 > From: "Tim Ng" <s14realm3@peachtreebmwcca.org> > Subject: water logged carpet > > in my 95 M3, with all this rain on the East coast, my carpet is soaked on > BOTH sides of my M3. Its so wet that I can squeeze water from stepping on > it!!! Is there a water drain for teh windshield cowl like the elephant > trunk for the E30s. Is there a drain on the firewall? I bet if there is > one, mine is completely clogged. I don't think my sunroof drains are > clogged. The windshield is a replaced unit and I do hear wind noise on the > highway so maybe my windshield is not sealed right and its leaking inside > the car BUT on both sides? > HELP, I may have to wear a full body rain suit to drive my car. > > Tim Ng > 95 E36 M3 BzznM3 > 92 E30 325ic M-tech convetible > 91 E30 M3 street car > 88 E30 M3 Track car > 93 Chevy Blazer 2 dr. tow vehicle > >
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#4. Re: Getting Parts From Germany - from shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com
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Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 09:38:08 -0400 From: shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com Subject: Re: Getting Parts From Germany Depending on how large they are, it is most likely easiest to ship them through the post office (Deutsche Post). They will be delivered here by the US Post Office. I recently bought some wheels from a guy in Germany and they got here in about 10 days, and shipping was about $40. HTH, Shane K. >I am trying to get some E36 M parts for my car from a person over in >Germany. What is the best way to get it shipped? >any help is much appreciated. This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privileged, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any other use of the email by you is prohibited.
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#5. James, should I forward this to the I.T. list??? - from TFRM3@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 11:15:57 EDT From: TFRM3@aol.com Subject: James, should I forward this to the I.T. list??? "Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 16:28:30 -0400 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: stock 3.0 cams Does anyone have a set to get rid of? Please email with price, I need these quickly! Thanks. Can swap plus $$$ for Schricks as well. James"
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Re: Getting Parts From Germany - from DocWyte
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Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 08:21:27 -0700 (PDT) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Getting Parts From Germany The last time I got something from Germany it was sent via Deutsche Post. It took 11 weeks to get here. I definately don't recommend it. -josh --- shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com wrote: > Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 09:38:08 -0400 > From: shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com > Subject: Re: Getting Parts From Germany > > > Depending on how large they are, it is most likely > easiest to ship them > through the post office (Deutsche Post). They will > be delivered here by > the US Post Office. I recently bought some wheels > from a guy in Germany > and they got here in about 10 days, and shipping was > about $40. > > HTH, > > Shane K. > > >I am trying to get some E36 M parts for my car from > a person over in > >Germany. What is the best way to get it shipped? > > >any help is much appreciated. > > > > > This message is for the designated recipient only > and may contain > privileged, proprietary, or otherwise private > information. If you have > received it in error, please notify the sender > immediately and delete the > original. Any other use of the email by you is > prohibited. > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > ===== __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month! http://sbc.yahoo.com
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#7. Cooling System Rehab - from Nancy Fluharty
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Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 14:59:37 -0400 From: "Nancy Fluharty" <fluhar@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Cooling System Rehab I've completed the cooling system rehab, prompted by the episodes of running warm, followed by an episode of overheating. I figured the problem was the thermostat, but since I had all the parts I did the whole enchilada. I offer the following to those contemplating this work; some data points as to the condition of some items as I found them at 75,600 miles. Thermostat looked fine when I removed it. I really wanted it to have a break or obvious fault, so I'd know for sure that was the problem, but it didn't. I was relieved to see when I boiled it in water that, even at full boil, it opened only the slightest crack. Just another failed thermostat -- it's an epidemic! Thermostat housing (original, plastic) had no signs of cracking or weakness. Replaced it with aluminum. Water pump had been changed recently, per PO. Since I was there, I changed it anyhow, but it had metal impeller, no bearing play, and looked fine. It had sealant around the gasket. I didn't use any sealant on the new one; what is standard practice? Hoses had no apparent soft spots or weakening areas; appeared to be have many miles left in them. Add to my "Used Parts OK to be Re-used in an Emergency" stash. Belts were both fairly worn, with a regular pattern of cracking on the inside. Due for change. The fan itself came loose easily with one hammer blow, barely more than a tap, to the 32mm bicycle wrench. Hardest parts of the job are the plastic parts - the fan shroud and the undertray. The shroud-and-fan-together removal trick works fine, but first you must deal with the two hoses which pass through the shroud. I disconnected the ~one-inch hose at the bottom of the overflow reservoir and removed the reservoir separately. I think this may not be necessary; it may be possible to disconnect the ~1/4 inch overflow hose at its radiator connection and then lift the shroud/reservoir while rotating it clockwise (as seen from the front), limited by the 1-inch hose passing through the bottom right of the shroud. As to the undertray - Damn you, undertray! Damn you! Bob Fluharty 95 M3 <-- all back together, no leaks, and running coooooll 87 325is Cincinnati
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#8. Re: sway bar links - from James Clay
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Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 15:32:15 -0400 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Re: sway bar links Start them at stock length, tighten one down and install it fully, leave the adjustment on the other link loose and install the end on the strut housing only. If you have access to a shop with a pit - it is perfect. Basically, you need to be able to get under the car to adjust the length on the hanging link until it slips into the bar very easily - takes out all of the preload. James James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance 540.639.9648
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#9. M3 Head unit differences - from eevans@planetc.com
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Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 15:34:02 -0400 From: eevans@planetc.com Subject: M3 Head unit differences Rich, I've had 2 '95 M3s w/ the same build date. One used the older connection for <'95 my other uses the harness for '95>. The CD Changer connections were different as well. Thank goodness I have a CD Changer for each connection type. If anyone needs the earlier OR later model CD Changer I have one of each for sale. Evan Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 14:51:17 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: CD43 Head Unit in '95 M3 Has anyone here installed a CD43 Head Unit in '95 M3? Is it simply plug and play (I heard it is)? Are there any issues with hooking up the OE cd changer in the trunk (I believe it is the OE BMW unit...Pioneer CDX-M91 IIRC). Regards, Rich
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#10. Headliner coming off sunroof - from Rick Cardinal
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Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 17:49:53 -0400 From: "Rick Cardinal" <cardinar@bellsouth.net> Subject: Headliner coming off sunroof The forward edge of the headliner on the sunroof of my '95 M3 coming detached. This is on the sunroof itself, that slides back. Any one know of the best way to reattach it? Glue? That doesn't seem right, it's bare metal underneath the fabric. Any help much appreciated. Rick