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#1. RE: Need brake pad and rotor advice... - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 09:41:49 -0400 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: Need brake pad and rotor advice... Josh, I run stock rotors up front and rear (can get them from James @ Bimmerworld, he is a list sponsor). For pads I use Performance Friction Z pads from Autozone. They come with LIFETIME warranty. If you pads ever get down to nothing, head over the Autozone and they give you a brand new set. Never have to buy brake pads again. A.L.
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Which type of coolant to use? - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 10:38:33 -0400 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Which type of coolant to use? Maybe your water isn't hard, but here in Frederick County, MD, the water has a consistent ph of 8.2. I also stick with BMW antifreeze, and ALWAYS use distilled water. To flush the system I use tap water (garden hose), but I drain the system completely, including the block drain, to get as much of the tap water out as possible. To refill, I pour half of the antifreeze into a spare antifreeze container (you DO keep a spare bottle around, right?), and then fill the rest of the space in each container with distilled water, to produce two gallons of 50/50 mix. And, as Lowell says, it's tricky to use Dexcool in a system that had regular antifreeze in it. To read about it, go to Google and type in 'dexcool trouble' for plenty of reading. It's not a problem with mixing two different coolant types. It's a problem with air causing Dexcool to turn into a muddy gel. Even GM acknowledges the problem. Check out: http://imcool.com/articles/anitfreeze-coolant/dexcool-macs2001.htm Bottom line? BMW coolant is the safest choice. Ron Buchalski BMWCCA #76387 1995 E36 M3 1993 E34 525iT 1999 Mazda Miata >Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 01:49:56 EDT >From: LoweSeaton@aol.com >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Which type of coolant to use? > > >You have several issues here. First, the last guy did NOT use BMW spec >antifreeze. BMW antifreeze is blue - very distinctive. Now your second >problem is >Dexcool canNOT be mixed with common green antifreeze. The only way you >could >use Dexcool now is to completely and thoroughly flush out all the old green >antifreeze. > >I personally always use BMW blue antifreeze. I buy it from the local >dealership. I think the last time I paid $17/gallon. Preston antifreeze >sells for >$9.49 at Wal-Mart. The cost difference is insignificant since you only >change >the coolant about every 2 years. > >Now in your case, you probably could use anything but Dexcool. You may as >well just continue to use Preston antifreeze. As I understand it, the >reason >BMW and other European car makers specify "phosphate-free" antifreeze is >because >the water in Europe is much harder. Phosphates in typical "green" >antifreeze >will form solids and scale in the radiator. However, since our water >doesn't >have the hardness in the first place, what little solids are formed won't >be >a problem. Plus, you do use distilled water, right? It should not be >hard. > >Bottom line? Don't use Dexcool. Switch to BMW coolant if you want. But >you >can use just about any antifreeze with no harm. I think many, if not all >of >them are phosphate free anyway. > >Lowell Seaton >'95 M3 >Dallas, Texas _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
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#3. RE: Subject: Chips .. are you interested (hacking?) - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 07:49:55 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: Subject: Chips .. are you interested (hacking?) The on-line domineer has changed significantly since 1993! Rich provided <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com>: Subject: Chips .. are you interested (hacking?) This was posted on another list I am on and I found it pretty humorous and worth reposting here: http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=utf-8&th=3d6a1da673fcc7c0&rnum=22 KLBurgess
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#4. Re: [E36M3] RE: brake pads and rotors - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 10:00:28 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: brake pads and rotors russell <driver8m3@yahoo.com> wrote: > > i just did pads and rotors. i got the hawk hps pads and so far (1 > week) i'm very happy with them. with just regular/fast street > driving, they produce almost zero dust. i put new rims on the car > on monday, and they're still clean today...you know how they would > look with stock pads. Russell, I've ran Hawk HPS on the street and Hawk Blues on track for the last few years. Still happy with them and OEM Brembo rotors that I bought from Steve G (www.ultimategarage.com). I can't recall where I had purchased my Hawk pads (they last that long ;-). Other than rare minor squealing, HPS are very good for the street. I've also heard great things about PF R4S pads, but they leave PF signature residue on the rotor that simulates rotor warpage symptoms when you change to any other non-PF (track) pads. So if you are an all-PF kinda guy, they are great. If not, beware. > no experience with autox or track use, so cant comment on that. I wish I had better pads for the autoX. I am referring exclusively to 4th gear TX autoXs, but I do fade the HPS's at the end of 3rd/4th runs on brake intensive courses. alex f > -------------------- 3 -------------------- > Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 10:17:48 -0700 (PDT) > From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> > Subject: Need brake pad and rotor advice... > > Well, > > It's time to do the pads and rotors in my '95 M3. > > I use the car as my daily driver here in New England, > so cold stopping is important. It's also my auto-x > machine and I might do an occasional track school with > it. > > My questions are... > > Ferodo DS2500 or Hawk HPS? > OEM rotors, G3000 rotors or ? > > Best place to get this stuff at a good price? > > Thanks! > > -josh
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#5. High-Temp Superglue?? - from twisty M3
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Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 09:38:15 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: High-Temp Superglue?? The retaining clip springs on the back of my rear brake pads have a bit of play in them. Because of this, they rattle around a bit and make it sound like the rear of my car is falling apart. Is there any sort of glue or other compound I can use to keep the clips in place that can stand up to track temps? I've thought of using red Loctite, but I think that really only works with threaded metal/metal, and this is simply a free "prong" sitting in a rivet on the back of a brake pad. Jonathan L. _________________________________________________________________ Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Need brake pad and rotor advice... - from Michael Lawrence
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Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 14:52:01 -0400 From: Michael Lawrence <95m3ltw@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Need brake pad and rotor advice... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jamie Thomas" <midpoint@mindspring.com> > I track my M3 heavily (about 23 days a season) and I have just stuck = > with stock Jurid Pads and Euro Floating Rotors. I have to say, thats pretty damn impressive. What tracks do you drive? Tracks around here, Road Atlanta, Kershaw, Roebling road, Sebring etc are tough on brakes and stock pads have a hard time surviving. Also, do you run R compound tires? How long do the pads last? Mike
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#7. Can't Read Odometer - from Frank & Kirsten
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Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 19:22:12 -0700 From: "Frank & Kirsten" <FranKirsten@msn.com> Subject: Can't Read Odometer Today, when I started my car after being in the sun, I could not read my Odometer at all. I could see the maintenance bars at startup (and then they went off as usual), but no odometer or trip meter. Is this just a bulb from behind? If I look real close, I can just barely make the numbers out with the headlights turned on in the day time. I have not yet looked it over at night. Any experience with this would be helpful. Thanks, Frank 95 M3
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Can't Read Odometer - from Chester Wong
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Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 19:41:33 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Can't Read Odometer You have the same exact problem that I have when someone ripped out my center vent and the bowden cable was yanked. It probably popped out a fiber optic cable or something. Sounds like your bulb is dead. Chester --- Frank & Kirsten <FranKirsten@msn.com> wrote: > Today, when I started my car after being in the sun, I could not read my > Odometer at all. I could see the maintenance bars at startup (and then > they went off as usual), but no odometer or trip meter. Is this just a > bulb from behind? If I look real close, I can just barely make the > numbers out with the headlights turned on in the day time. I have not > yet looked it over at night. =====
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Can't Read Odometer - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 09:46:10 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Can't Read Odometer At 07:28 PM 6/27/03, Frank & Kirsten wrote: >Today, when I started my car after being in the sun, I could not read my >Odometer at all. I could see the maintenance bars at startup (and then >they went off as usual), but no odometer or trip meter. Is this just a >bulb from behind? Yep (Funny, just answered a similar question on another list :-)): Just happened to my M3. It's a burnt out bulb. Just pull the cluster and replace the bulb. It's either a 1.2W or 1.5W bulb (I can't recall). Here's the p/n for each: 1.2W: 62 13 1 383 311 1.5W: 62 11 1 391 260 Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP/A5
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#10. Peake codes - from Bruce
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Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 14:12:53 -0500 From: "Bruce" <gobuffs93@attbi.com> Subject: Peake codes I searched the archives and see a lot of people asking what codes mean. Why doesn't Peake put the manual up online? The manual is useless without the reader anyway right? Anyways...we had the manual today at a DIY day, but it grew legs and left (they left the reader...go figure). Need the following codes for a 96 328. F0 F1 F2 F3 EE EF Thanks, Bruce 95 M3 89 M3 2.5