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#1. Re: SRS light on? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 15:34:28 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: SRS light on? on 6/29/03 3:18 PM, Pilewan23@aol.com wrote: > I am not sure as to why the SRS light came on? Last night the car had been > driven home and everything was fine. This evening the light was on and I > haven't a clue. Any one have any ideas. A very common reason for this is failure of the latch-detect microswitch in one of the front seatbelt receptacle assemblies, which must be replaced to fix. Neil 96 M3
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#2. Pet Peeve - Caliper Dust Boots - from Jeremy Lucas
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Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 17:44:00 -0400 From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> Subject: Pet Peeve - Caliper Dust Boots Right now my biggest pet peeve about my car is that I cannot wear down a set of track pads without the front caliper piston dust boots being pulled out of the caliper housing. I had the original set tear and have had them pull out twice since then with the fresh boots. I've heard about the extra backing plate idea, are there any others out there for this issue? I've gotten good at the caliper rebuilds but it's still a pain in the butt / messy job. I don't think I'm trying to wear them down abnormally (I have a picture of the pads that you can see the thickness left) but maybe I'm waiting too long? I was about 3/16" on the inboard pad and about 1/8" on the outboard side. Even with ducting, I'm only getting 4, sometimes 5, days out of a set of front pads while running 1:50's pretty much all day long at MidOhio. Any thoughts? Jeremy Lucas 95 M3
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#3. Looking for inexpensive track tires - from Hunt Hodgetts
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Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 17:37:57 -0700 (PDT) From: Hunt Hodgetts <hhodgetts@yahoo.com> Subject: Looking for inexpensive track tires I'm preparing for my 2nd driver's school at Road Atlanta July 12. I'm looking for some track tires. They will be used for track only and possibly driving to and from the track. Can anyone recommend an inexpensive ($100/tire range) tire that will provide maximum dry traction. Either R compound or street tires are ok as long as the dry traction is exceptional. Thanks, Hunt 96 M3 Coupe __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month! http://sbc.yahoo.com
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Looking for inexpensive track tires - from DocWyte
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Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 17:54:21 -0700 (PDT) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Looking for inexpensive track tires You're going to be very hard pressed to find any R compound tire for $100 each. Heck, even finding a street tire with "exceptional" grip for $100 each isn't going to happen. For $100 each you can get the Yoko ES100 or Kumho 712's. They're ok. A set of R compound VictoRacers (Kumho) will run you around $140 each, plus shipping, plus mounting and balancing. For your purposes I'd probably go with a set of Toyo RA1's, since they last a long time and you can drive them to and from the track. With this being your 2nd driving school, do you really want R rubber? They don't give a whole lot of warning when the lose grip and if you don't have alot of track experience, or R compound experience, catching the car when the tires let loose can be a little exciting. -josh --- Hunt Hodgetts <hhodgetts@yahoo.com> wrote: > Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 17:37:57 -0700 (PDT) > From: Hunt Hodgetts <hhodgetts@yahoo.com> > Subject: Looking for inexpensive track tires > > I'm preparing for my 2nd driver's school at Road > Atlanta July 12. I'm looking for some track tires. > They will be used for track only and possibly > driving > to and from the track. Can anyone recommend an > inexpensive ($100/tire range) tire that will provide > maximum dry traction. Either R compound or street > tires are ok as long as the dry traction is > exceptional. > Thanks, > Hunt > > 96 M3 Coupe > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month! > http://sbc.yahoo.com > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > ===== __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month! http://sbc.yahoo.com
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Pet Peeve - Caliper Dust Boots - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 18:01:04 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Pet Peeve - Caliper Dust Boots After melting my original stock dust boot, the second one came out rather easily. I think the trick is the rebuilding process. What I've found is first, the boot is flipped over on itself in order to get the lip to seat in the caliper. Now, I like to grip the boot that's on the piston and the piston and give it a good twist 360 degrees to make sure the lip is completely seated. What I've found is that it's quite easy to have the lip on the obscured side of the caliper not sit correctly and that will pull out first. My only peeve is that the boots get brittle when they get heated. I have to look into a ducting solution as I get fade with the PF90s. Then again, I only have about 2mm of material left on these ;) I hear the PF01s take the heat a bit better and will maybe have better feel for my style of driving... Chester --- Jeremy Lucas <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> wrote: > Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 17:44:00 -0400 > From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> > Subject: Pet Peeve - Caliper Dust Boots > > Right now my biggest pet peeve about my car is that I cannot wear down a > set of track pads without the front caliper piston dust boots being > pulled out of the caliper housing. I had the original set tear and have > had them pull out twice since then with the fresh boots. I've heard > about the extra backing plate idea, are there any others out there for > this issue? I've gotten good at the caliper rebuilds but it's still a > pain in the butt / messy job. > > I don't think I'm trying to wear them down abnormally (I have a picture > of the pads that you can see the thickness left) but maybe I'm waiting > too long? I was about 3/16" on the inboard pad and about 1/8" on the > outboard side. Even with ducting, I'm only getting 4, sometimes 5, days > out of a set of front pads while running 1:50's pretty much all day long > at MidOhio. > > Any thoughts? > > Jeremy Lucas > 95 M3 > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > =====
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#6. Strange Pad Wear - from NSimon1111@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 22:41:54 EDT From: NSimon1111@aol.com Subject: Strange Pad Wear Just removed Porterfield R4 pads after track event. At right rear, the outside pad as 1/4" left, but inside pad down to backing plate! Pads in other calipers wearing at same rate. FWIW, I can't detect any signs that the caliper is binding on the guide bolts. Advice/suggestions? Also, the dust seal on the front right caliper is deformed and is not tight against piston. Time for a rebuild? Neil Simon Wash, DC 99 M Coupe
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#7. Description of code "EGO sensor" - from VT
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Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 02:41:09 -0700 (PDT) From: VT <fstbmwm3@yahoo.com> Subject: Description of code "EGO sensor" Howdy folks, here's some interesting tuning facts + a question: I had a few runs at the strip with the exhaust recirculation gas tubes venting out. I had plugged their two corresponding holes at the rubber hose before the T body. The car actually run worse than before and I switched everything back to the factory spec. Although my connections remain airtight, I get the fault code light readings that correspond to the EGO sensor #1 code 1221 (DME 3.3.1) I reset the battery and the code appears again. performance wise I do not see any reduction in power but the light worries me. The car is propably the fastest US E36 1995 M3 3L in Europe running mid 12s and outrunning most EVO 7 & 8 and Sti 330hp at the tracks. thanks in advance Vlasis 95 USM3 __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month! http://sbc.yahoo.com
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Strange Pad Wear - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 04:44:30 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Strange Pad Wear I've always had the inboard pad wear faster than the outboard one. Perhaps, by luck, whenever you put the track pads in, you always managed to "rotate" them but on that particular corner, you always put it back in the original configuration? About the front caliper, yep...time for a rebuild. Chester --- NSimon1111@aol.com wrote: > Just removed Porterfield R4 pads after track event. At right rear, the > outside pad as 1/4" left, but inside pad down to backing plate! Pads in > other > calipers wearing at same rate. FWIW, I can't detect any signs that the > caliper is binding on the guide bolts. Advice/suggestions? > > Also, the dust seal on the front right caliper is deformed and is not tight > > against piston. Time for a rebuild? =====
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#9. Aluminum Jacks - new source? - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 11:23:57 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Aluminum Jacks - new source? > It appears that Jegs is now marketing the same jack as Harbor Freight. > You be the judge: > http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=156884&prmenbr=361 > It looks the same to me. ??? > Maybe this will make it more available than being on permanent backorder > at Harbor Freight. Jeremy - let me know when you want me to pick up one for you. At the local Harbor Freight, they had two pallets of these things sitting in the center aisle waiting for new homes. Regards, Rich - with the 2 ton version of the HF aluminum jack...heavier and better made IMO than the 1 1/2 ton model.
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#10. RE: peake codes - from Paul Smith
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Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 10:42:12 -0500 From: Paul Smith <pauls@ontario.com> Subject: RE: peake codes I had the same codes as well as a camshaft error. $2500 later, the car is running great :( Lesson learned, make sure you are in gear before putting the pedal to the floor. Paul Smith '98 M/3/4/5 with new straight rods and polished pistons. Regarding: Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 15:01:15 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Peake codes See below: F0 Misfire detected, cylinder #3 F1 Misfire detected, cylinder #4 F2 Misfire detected, cylinder #5 F3 Misfire detected, cylinder #6 EE Misfire detected, cylinder #1 EF Misfire detected, cylinder #2 Neil 96 M3