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#1. Re: Wheel center cap - from RonStygar@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 19:49:52 EDT From: RonStygar@aol.com Subject: Re: Wheel center cap 36 13 1 095 361 is the new style (flat) cap. BMW suggested retail is $3.75 each. The old style (convex) 36 13 1 180 419 is also $3.75. Not sure if it is available though.
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#2. Tire Questions - from David Crum
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Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 16:56:11 -0700 From: "David Crum" <dgcrum@jps.net> Subject: Tire Questions I am getting ready for a DE in early August. I am currently driving on 235 40 17 Bridgestone S03 mounted on 17x8 wheels and I don't really want to wear out a nice set of tires in one day. The stock wheels (96 staggered) have B.Stone 245 40 RE730 on the rear that are almost new and Michelin MXX3 in 225 45 in the front that are played out. The spare wheel has a new 225 45 Pilot Sport on it. I'd like to use the RE730s on the rear and either get a new pair of tires for the front that have similar characteristics to the RE730s or get one more Pilot Sport, if those would complement the RE730s. Are the RE750s close enough to the RE730s? I love the S03s and would like something that is close in dry traction and predictability. Car in question is a '96 M3 with RD springs and sways and Bilstein sports. This will be my third Driver's School and so dedicated track tires seem out of the question. Thanks, David 96 M3 89 325i
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#3. UUC Flywheel and Clutch - from Steve Klein
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Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 21:58:47 -0700 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: UUC Flywheel and Clutch Since we're on the subject, does anyone know if it is possible to use the M5 sprung hub clutch kit (plate, spring and t/o bearing) with the UUC 'Classic' 11lb. flywheel in a '95? BimmerWorld had it listed as well as the Stage II, which had the option to order either the M3 or the M5 clutch kit (to quote an option: "No clutch needed; I am installing on an M3/MZ3, no slave cyl needed"., so I was wondering if it is possible to interchange one with the other. Thanks, Steve (sadly without Speed (vision) a.k.a. NascarNetwork. Just GT3)
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#4. Clutch start switch - from Joseph L Bachman III
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Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 23:28:49 -0400 From: "Joseph L Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com> Subject: Clutch start switch I have had trouble starting my car the last day or so; a problem I suspect to be related to the ignition switch in on the clutch pedal. What is involved with changing this? Is it a cheap/easy fix? I will be going in for some dealer service shortly, so I'm curious if this a good dealer fix candidate, or will I get gouged for a $10 part. Thanks for the input gang. Regards, Jay Bachman '99 estoril coupe
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Cool Suit Recommendations? - from GGray657@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 00:06:47 EDT From: GGray657@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Cool Suit Recommendations? Buy a cool helmet first. I have biaffee with a cold air duct on it and a cooler with ice, lasts a fairly long time. Your head is much more important to keep cool than your body. I race road bikes (the kind you pedal) and your head is like a large heat generator if you can keep it cool your body will stay, or feel cooler, same princpal applys to wearing a helmet in a car. You loose around 60% of your body heat from your head. I also have a BELL Motorsports NASA suit it is pretty trick you can put it on in 90 degree plus heat and if the wind is blowing you can feel the air moving through the suits cooling panels...And my Dmod E30 car has absolutly NO interior, or sound deadening material to suck up heat its a very hot car I would pass out without the helemt and NASA suit... Gary
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#6. M3 with cloth? - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 10:09:10 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: M3 with cloth? The best write-up/info on the cloth seats is still here: www.tripledistilled.com Matt Malfa has summarized this as well as I have seen and is consistent with everything I found out. I prefer the look of the cloth seats up to/through 1995. I first saw the cloth seats in a 1994 325is M-Technic and thought they were really sweet. I have seen two 1995 US M3s since with the cloth seats and really like them but couldn't convince the dealer to allow me to switch my leather seats since they weren't heated :-( albeit in perfect shape. I don't care for the 1996+ M3 seats or the LTW seats. Regards, Rich
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#7. Re: [E36M3] UUC Flywheel and Clutch - from DocWyte
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Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 07:37:56 -0700 (PDT) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] UUC Flywheel and Clutch No, they're not interchangable. You need the new Stage 2 flywheel to run the M5 clutch set. -josh --- Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> wrote: > Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 21:58:47 -0700 > From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> > Subject: UUC Flywheel and Clutch > > Since we're on the subject, does anyone know if it > is possible to use > the M5 sprung hub clutch kit (plate, spring and t/o > bearing) with the > UUC 'Classic' 11lb. flywheel in a '95? > BimmerWorld had it listed as well as the Stage II, > which had the > option to order either the M3 or the M5 clutch kit > (to quote an > option: "No clutch needed; I am installing on an > M3/MZ3, no slave cyl > needed"., so I was wondering if it is possible to > interchange one with > the other. > > Thanks, > Steve (sadly without Speed (vision) > a.k.a. NascarNetwork. Just GT3) > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > > This e-mail and any attachments may contain > confidential and > privileged information. If you are not the intended > recipient, > please notify the sender immediately by return > e-mail, delete this > e-mail and destroy any copies. Any dissemination or > use of this > information by a person other than the intended > recipient is > unauthorized and may be illegal. ===== __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month! http://sbc.yahoo.com
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#8. Re: [E36M3] UUC Flywheel and Clutch - from Steve Klein
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Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 10:08:53 -0700 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] UUC Flywheel and Clutch Ah well. Time to try new tranny fluid. I thought I was quite a sleuth and on to something. Thanks for the clarification! Pax, Steve On Monday, July 7, 2003, at 07:37 AM, DocWyte wrote: > No, they're not interchangable. You need the new > Stage 2 flywheel to run the M5 clutch set. > > -josh >
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#9. Re: [E36M3] 245/40/17 Hoosiers - from Todd C. Merrill
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Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 11:22:47 -0400 (EDT) From: "Todd C. Merrill" <tmerrill@mathworks.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 245/40/17 Hoosiers On Tue, 27 May 2003, Dorffer, Rich wrote: > Has anyone mounted 245/40/17 Hoosiers on 8" wide wheels? [...] > I am asking because I have 8" wide wheels (SSR Integrals). [...] > Also, if you are using Hoosier 245/40/17 and 8" wide wheel, how do they fit front and rear? Anyone running 8.5" SSR Competitions and 245/40/17 Hoosiers? (I already have the wheels but would like to get the tires.) Do they fit into the wheel wells OK? Require fender rolling (how much)? Spacers, etc.? Until next time... Todd 1998 BMW Dinan M3 coupe Stage II suspension, swapped strut hats (3.1 deg. front) BMW CCA member, Boston Chapter ---
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#10. success installing RTABs and UUC clutch pedal bushings - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 10:47:32 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: success installing RTABs and UUC clutch pedal bushings Folks, Thanks to everyone who had identified the clutch pedal bushings as the source of my clutch squeak: Jon, Chester Wong, Zack Steinkamp, Chris Newman, Steve Tymoszuk, Malcolm Reitz, Jim Och, Chris Teague, Mark Cecil, Kit Wetzler, Brian Kearney, Khoi, Matthew Smith and Martin Bullen. Every one of you told me to buy and install the UUC bushings. A local DFW UUC dealer had one in stock and I had added the clutch bushings swap to my weekend to-do list. Working in the cramped foot well is a bit tricky, but the outcome is blissful silence every time I press the clutch pedal. I think the whol job took about 1.5 hours with numerous back stretching breaks. My RTAB (Rear Trailing Arm Bushing) swap went much easier than expected. I took my time on the first one than discovered that my '95 M3 had '96+ style RTABs with side skirts that need to be removed before you can use the VictoryProductDesign tool to pull out the old bushings. After 5 minutes of hack sawing, I went out and bought a SawzAll at a nearby Home Depot. I don't know how lived without it all those years! Things went much quicker from there on with the second side taking around 30 minutes. After some research and emails with PowerFlex and some other Urethane bushing owners (one too many of whom related tails premature failure), I decided to go with BMW RTABs reinforced by GC washers. I purchased all my RTABs from one of the mail order BMW dealers (forgot which one). I held both '95 (symmetric) and '96+ RTABs (with a largely decorative skirt on the outside of the bushing) in my hand before deciding to go with '95 ones. IMHO, all the internet bru-ha-ha about the desirability of '96 versions is crap. The symmetric '95 RTABs will take 10 minutes to remove the next time around. That's starting with the wheel on the ground. GC reinforcements were an impossibly tight fit. I had to file 1 mm off the side of the inner RTAB sleeve to make them fit into the bracket with the GC reinforcements. Brad, there is only one way to shove the RTABs into the trailing arm aiming for the centerline of the car from the outside (skirt facing outboard if you have it). The '96+ RTAB skirts' cut-outs were positioned at 12 and 6 o'clock on my old RTABs. I'm pretty sure the cut outs are there to accommodate the BMW RTAB removal tool. I would have installed the new ones the same way if it came to that, but I could not see any engineering necessity to do that. I had also swapped the lower rear control arms (bent from a dyno day) and that took much longer than the RTABs. You need to jack the rear differential way into the floor of the car to remove the bolts holding the arms to the diff carrier. To get access to the two horizontal rear diff mounts you need to remove the rear sway bar. Than get parts to align and bolt-up. Everything is a very tight fit. The trailing arm does move a lot more freely and tilts all the way to the floor (easier to work on ) with the lower control arm disconnected. But it's not really necessary and you do need to re-align the car afterwards. I had marked the original RTAB bracket position that controls the rear wheel toe before I removing them. When reassembling, I installed them back in the original position and set both rear control arms for max negative camber. Surprisingly, the car now tracks perfectly straight! I will still take it for an alignment before too much longer (I'm pretty sure I have way too much negative camber in the rear). I also replaced the rear shocks (the shock piston on one of my Koni SAs had broken in half). That hardly took 30 minutes for both thanks to GC RSMs. <rant mode on> E46 RSMs are crap just like the E30 convertible RSMs that carried the cult status in internet circles before them. I had long ago switched to GC RSMs and they had already served me longer than any of the BMW RSMs that had preceded them on 4 other bimmers. GC RSMs are better in many ways, not least of which is the ability to remove the shock from the inside of the wheel well (no more pulling the trunk carpeting). </rant mode on> -- alex f P.S.: If there was one thing I would have done different, it would be pressure washing the underside of the car!