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#1. Re: [E36M3] removing rotors - from Jason Knight
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Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 18:46:36 -0700 (PDT) From: Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] removing rotors I'm sure you removed the hex nut that holds the rotor to the hub. Spray the center area liberally with some sort of spray that loosens nuts (liquid wrench sort of stuff). Keep a-whackin'. I use the opposite end whack method, couple on one side, couple on opposite side. Eventually they will work themselves loose. If you are north of the Bible belt cuss at them. They like that. You autocross that thing and have never had the rotors off? Now I understand why people auto-x, it's cheap. Jason --- Mdriver13@aol.com wrote: > Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 21:25:36 EDT > From: Mdriver13@aol.com > Subject: removing rotors > > Group, > > I went to replace my rotors this weekend. All was > going well until the rotor > itself would not come off. This was the front rotor > (the easy ones). I gave > it a few good whacks with my 3 lb. mallet and a > block of wood, but was afraid > I'd bend the rotor, not be able to get it off, and > need to have the car > towed. I really hate that feeling! > > So my question to you guys is, do I stand a good > chance of getting these > rotors off since this is the first time they will > ever be removed from the car > (build date 9/96), and 34K miles????? Sure wish > BMW would have used anti-seize > on these :-( > > Again, TIA > > BTW: Thanks to all who pointed me in the right > direction for the Axxis > Ultimate brake pads. I ordered them from Kit > Wetzler at MPact Motorsports today. > Great price! Thanks, Kit. > > Bob Gill > 97 ///M3 coupe > Philly Region SCCA > BSP Champion '01 & '02 > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > > This e-mail and any attachments may contain > confidential and > privileged information. If you are not the intended > recipient, > please notify the sender immediately by return > e-mail, delete this > e-mail and destroy any copies. Any dissemination or > use of this > information by a person other than the intended > recipient is > unauthorized and may be illegal.
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#2. Re: [E36M3] removing rotors - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2003 18:58:19 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] removing rotors At 06:28 PM 7/8/03, Mdriver13@aol.com wrote: >So my question to you guys is, do I stand a good chance of getting these >rotors off since this is the first time they will ever be removed from the >car >(build date 9/96), and 34K miles????? Did you remove the rotor set screw? If no, remove then continue with hammer :-) If yes, get a bigger hammer :-) The rotor will come off eventually. You're in no danger of bending the rotor. Hope that helps, Jim Bassett
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#3. Removing Rotors - from Nancy Fluharty
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Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 23:19:59 -0400 From: "Nancy Fluharty" <fluhar@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Removing Rotors Mine too. Here's what worked for me: Spray PB Blaster or similar penetrating oil in the bolt holes and the rotor-retaining-screw hole. Scrape clean the line where the rotor meets the spindle, and spray there too. Let it sit, overnight if possible. With a sledge, strike the face of the hub (not the rotor surface). The idea is to break up the rust between the surfaces and allow the PB to penetrate. Spray, beat, spray, beat. . . If you have led a good life, eventually it will separate. Good luck Bob Fluharty 95 M3 87 325is Cincinnati > Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 21:25:36 EDT > From: Mdriver13@aol.com > Subject: removing rotors > > Group, > > I went to replace my rotors this weekend. All was going well until the rotor > itself would not come off. This was the front rotor (the easy ones). I gave > it a few good whacks with my 3 lb. mallet and a block of wood, but was afraid > I'd bend the rotor, not be able to get it off, and need to have the car > towed. I really hate that feeling! > > So my question to you guys is, do I stand a good chance of getting these > rotors off since this is the first time they will ever be removed from the car > (build date 9/96), and 34K miles????? Sure wish BMW would have used anti-seize > on these :-( > > Again, TIA > > BTW: Thanks to all who pointed me in the right direction for the Axxis > Ultimate brake pads. I ordered them from Kit Wetzler at MPact Motorsports today. > Great price! Thanks, Kit. > > Bob Gill > 97 ///M3 coupe > Philly Region SCCA > BSP Champion '01 & '02
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#4. Re: [E36M3] removing rotors - from Zack Steinkamp
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Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 20:29:03 -0700 (PDT) From: Zack Steinkamp <edsarkiss@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] removing rotors on a friend's X5, we tried for an hour with a mallet. only when we switched to a real metal hammer did they budge. scary, but it works. zs --- Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> wrote: > Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 18:46:36 -0700 (PDT) > From: Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] removing rotors > > I'm sure you removed the hex nut that holds the > rotor > to the hub. > > Spray the center area liberally with some sort of > spray that loosens nuts (liquid wrench sort of > stuff). > > Keep a-whackin'. I use the opposite end whack > method, > couple on one side, couple on opposite side. > Eventually they will work themselves loose. > > If you are north of the Bible belt cuss at them. > They > like that. > > You autocross that thing and have never had the > rotors > off? Now I understand why people auto-x, it's > cheap. > > Jason > > --- Mdriver13@aol.com wrote: > > Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 21:25:36 EDT > > From: Mdriver13@aol.com > > Subject: removing rotors > > > > Group, > > > > I went to replace my rotors this weekend. All was > > going well until the rotor > > itself would not come off. This was the front > rotor > > (the easy ones). I gave > > it a few good whacks with my 3 lb. mallet and a > > block of wood, but was afraid > > I'd bend the rotor, not be able to get it off, and > > need to have the car > > towed. I really hate that feeling! > > > > So my question to you guys is, do I stand a good > > chance of getting these > > rotors off since this is the first time they will > > ever be removed from the car > > (build date 9/96), and 34K miles????? Sure wish > > BMW would have used anti-seize > > on these :-( > > > > Again, TIA > > > > BTW: Thanks to all who pointed me in the right > > direction for the Axxis > > Ultimate brake pads. I ordered them from Kit > > Wetzler at MPact Motorsports today. > > Great price! Thanks, Kit. > > > > Bob Gill > > 97 ///M3 coupe > > Philly Region SCCA > > BSP Champion '01 & '02 > > > > > > ************************************************* > > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > > sponsors: > > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > > ************************************************* > > > > > > > > This e-mail and any attachments may contain > > confidential and > > privileged information. If you are not the > intended > > recipient, > > please notify the sender immediately by return > > e-mail, delete this > > e-mail and destroy any copies. Any dissemination > or > > use of this > > information by a person other than the intended > > recipient is > > unauthorized and may be illegal. > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > > This e-mail and any attachments may contain > confidential and > privileged information. If you are not the intended > recipient, > please notify the sender immediately by return > e-mail, delete this > e-mail and destroy any copies. Any dissemination or > use of this > information by a person other than the intended > recipient is > unauthorized and may be illegal.
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#5. Re: [E36M3] removing rotors - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 20:41:59 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] removing rotors O definitely! You can do more with a 12 oz steel hammer than a rubber mallet. A small sledge hammer does wonders. Why are you taking the rotors off? To replace? Then why would you worry about screwing up the rotor? I've had good luck turning the wheel and striking real hard on the back surface of the rotor. Just make sure a) you don't miss and b) your feet are nowhere in the trajectory path of the rotor. Chester --- Zack Steinkamp <edsarkiss@yahoo.com> wrote: > Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 20:29:03 -0700 (PDT) > From: Zack Steinkamp <edsarkiss@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] removing rotors > > on a friend's X5, we tried for an hour with a mallet. > > only when we switched to a real metal hammer did they > budge. scary, but it works. =====
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#6. Re: [E36M3] removing rotors - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2003 20:55:22 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] removing rotors At 08:48 PM 7/8/03, Chester Wong wrote: >O definitely! You can do more with a 12 oz steel hammer than a rubber mallet. Even better - my nifty 48oz. Snap-On dead blow hammer. Makes quick work of just about anything :-) Plastic coated so you can bang away at all hours without worrying about waking the neighbors (or wife :-)). > Just make sure a) you don't miss and b) your feet are nowhere in the >trajectory path of the rotor. Very good advice! :-) Jim Bassett
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Oil Distribution Block - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2003 23:12:50 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Oil Distribution Block Neil Maller at neil.maller@gte.net wrote: > As part of another project, on which I'll report later, I'd like to relocate > my VDO oil temp sensor from the oil pan drain plug to an oil distribution > block attached to the oil filter housing. > > Is there any reason to look at anything other than the seemingly very nice > JTD part? The JTD part is excellent - I have one on the race car I'm building. It can be installed without removing the intake manifold if you're careful (and don't mind minor flesh wounds). Brett Anderson is working on one that will work with either style of oil filter housing but he ran into production delays so I got tired of waiting. Tony at VAC Motorsports has this absolutely AWESOME oil filter housing replacement, including sender ports, remote cooler and filter ports, and an Accusump port, but it's priced accordingly. http://www.vacmotorsports.com/db/images/dsc00840.jpg - Mark -- mark@pdc-racing.net
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#8. RE:removing rotors - from Ward, Chris
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Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 06:22:28 -0400 From: "Ward, Chris" <CWard@ContractLumber.com> Subject: RE:removing rotors >>I went to replace my rotors this weekend. All was going well until the rotor >>itself would not come off. This was the front rotor (the easy ones). I gave >>it a few good whacks with my 3 lb. mallet and a block of wood, but was afraid >>I'd bend the rotor, not be able to get it off, and need to have the car >>towed. I really hate that feeling! >>Bob Gill >>97 ///M3 coupe >>Philly Region SCCA >>BSP Champion '01 & '02 Bob, It does take a few good whacks to free up the rotor, but if you think that might bend the rotor, I would try using a torch to heat up the hub. I was able to remove mine with a rubber mallet that I thought for sure the handle would break. Good luck, Chris Ward 95 M3 (Dakar Yellow)
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#9. RE: rotors - from marc@plante.com
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Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 05:05:43 -0700 (PDT) From: marc@plante.com Subject: RE: rotors You did remove the set screw, right? Otherwise. WD-40 on the joint hit the face by the lug nut holes a few times to send vibrations into the joint then hit the back of the rotor, turning quarter turns between hits. Turning the rotor between hits helps a lot. Use a regular metal sledge and skip the wood. If needed, an all metal (one of the hexagonal) 25 lb dumbbell makes a nifty slide hammer to apply some mass. Marc Plante marc@plante.com
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#10. Oil Distribution Block - from Robert Manger
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Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 08:58:36 -0400 From: "Robert Manger" <Robert_Manger@Mastercard.com> Subject: Oil Distribution Block Rich, I had the same problem with my car, also a 95. I still used the JTD unit but used a dual pressure sender for the idiot light and the gauge. Essentially only using 2 ports out of the three. Rob Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 17:40:10 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Oil Distribution Block Jim Bassett already touched upon it but the JTD oil distribution block doesn't fit all cars. It didn't fit on my 1995 M3 and repeated efforts to get JTD to acknowledge this were never answered. Here is a pic of a proper oil filter housing with the extended port: http://www.apexcone.com/Gauges/oct12_08.jpg My oil filter housing was basically flush on the backside where this port was so the lower sender (idiot pressure sender) would interfere with the housing. So, I had my own model made. Brett Anderson at Koala Motorsport was going to have these made but I am not sure anything ever came of it. Regards, Rich
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#11. RE: [E36M3] Engine Support - from Steve Stoner
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Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 08:59:59 -0400 From: Steve Stoner <sstoner@treev.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Engine Support Check www.eastmanco.com Type 'engine hoist' into the search field. You will find a $59 sit on the fender rail enigine hoist that should be just the ticket.