E36M3 #3245

Thursday, July 10, 2003 01:49:10

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: [E36M3] Tie-Downs and T-Hooks - from Mark Dadgar
#2. Re: Oil Distribution Block - from Neil Maller
#3. Re: Any experience with TSW wheels? - from HyperM3@aol.com
#4. Re: [E36M3] FW: The Hire Collector's Edition DVD is here - from Michael Lawrence
#5. Re: [E36M3] M3 with cloth? - from Michael Lawrence
#6. Overheated e36 - from Rick Cardinal
#7. Re: [E36M3] Overheated e36 - from Geof McLaughlin
#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: Oil Distribution Block - from ChuckBrazeau@aol.com
#9. Re: [E36M3] Overheated e36 - from Michael Lawrence
#10. erattic fuel level readings - from Scott M

-------------------- 1 --------------------

#1. Re: [E36M3] Tie-Downs and T-Hooks - from Mark Dadgar
Top
Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 13:28:09 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Tie-Downs and T-Hooks Andrew E. Kalman at aek@pumpkininc.com wrote: >> http://store.sline.com/appCatalogPartsViewList.cfm?BlockID=6929 >> >> Note that the t-hooks come with a link attached. If your tie-down hook has >> a 90 degree bend (rotation) in it, you MUST use a t-hook with this link on >> it or the tie-down hook will contact the gas tank in the back. >> >> That's bad. >> >> I solved the problem by having a link welded to the rear hooks, but this is >> an easier (read: cheaper) solution. > > I ordered a bunch several weeks ago, and got a call today that they > no longer carry this item, and haven't for years. Bummer. That sucks. You'd think they'd take 'em off their web site. :) Ahh, well, Northern Tool has the T-hooks and you can weld the links on yourself. - Mark -- mark@pdc-racing.net

Reply to: Mark Dadgar

Top

-------------------- 2 --------------------

#2. Re: Oil Distribution Block - from Neil Maller
Top
Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 16:35:21 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Oil Distribution Block on 7/9/03 12:28 PM, ChuckBrazeau@aol.com wrote: > I looked into dual pressure senders from VDO, but i wanted to use and found > one that will fit in place of the stock pressure sensor with the correct > M12x1.5 thread size (most are 1/8 NPT or something like that) so that there is > no need for an ODB or thread adapter... > > VDO Oil Pressure Sender > 0-80 PSI/5 Bar, M12x1.5K > 8.5 PSI warning, $57.96 > Part No: 360-007 > Notes: 10-180 Ohms Single Station (for one gauge). Standard Ground. > With warning contact for warning light. > http://egauges.com/vdo_send.asp?Sender=80PSI_5Bar_VDO&Cart= However according to VDO, as reported some time ago by Jim Powell, their dual sender needs to be mounted within 45 degrees of vertical to avoid premature failure. If you screw it directly into the oil filter housing it's be horizontal. That's why BMP, for instance, supplies a simple oil adapter block even if you only need a "one holer." This is what I'm currently using, and which will be replaced with a JTD block. Neil 96 M3

Reply to: Neil Maller

Top

-------------------- 3 --------------------

#3. Re: Any experience with TSW wheels? - from HyperM3@aol.com
Top
Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 17:54:38 -0400 From: HyperM3@aol.com Subject: Re: Any experience with TSW wheels? I had TSW Hocks in black powder-coat on my car for over 4 yrs. They looked absolutely fantastic and held up very well. They were 17x8 and I kept the staggered setup 225front/245 rear and never had any problems. In terms of heavy, well they weren't the lightest. I can attest to the fact that them being a little heavier made them that much stronger. I live in NJ and with the pot holes we've had here, and then my stint for a yr in Boston, they are the best wheels I've ever owned. Never a problem bending. It wasn't until I hit a concrete crumble in the middle of the road that was unavoidable did I blow a tire and slightly curve one rim edge. Still, It looks round and I would recommend these wheels to anyone. Speaking of which, if anyone is interested in purchasing these wheels (make great snow or street wheels) give me a shout and Ill send along pics. Alex "HyperM3" Demsky 97 S/C M3 ~ http://hometown.aol.com/hyperm3/Bimmer.html

Reply to:

Top

-------------------- 4 --------------------

#4. Re: [E36M3] FW: The Hire Collector's Edition DVD is here - from Michael Lawrence
Top
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 18:33:05 -0400 From: "Michael Lawrence" <95m3ltw@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] FW: The Hire Collector's Edition DVD is here its not much of a collectors edition if 50k+ people were given one free? haha Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mo Karamat" <karamatm@optonline.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2003 1:38 PM Subject: [E36M3] FW: The Hire Collector's Edition DVD is here > Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 13:30:19 -0400 > From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> > Subject: FW: The Hire Collector's Edition DVD is here > > Collector's Edition DVDNot sure if you guys got this.. > > Mo > > > -----Original Message----- > From: bmwfilms.com [mailto:bmwna@bmwna.rsc01.com] > Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2003 1:04 PM > To: karamatm@optonline.net > Subject: The Hire Collector's Edition DVD is here > > > Please click here to view this email online. > > > > > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > > This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential and > privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient, > please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail, delete this > e-mail and destroy any copies. Any dissemination or use of this > information by a person other than the intended recipient is > unauthorized and may be illegal.

Reply to: Michael Lawrence <95m3ltw@comcast.net>

Top

-------------------- 5 --------------------

#5. Re: [E36M3] M3 with cloth? - from Michael Lawrence
Top
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 18:41:06 -0400 From: "Michael Lawrence" <95m3ltw@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] M3 with cloth? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Lilley" <m3steve@earthlink.net> This option includes a cloth/alcantara > interior > (leather seating is a $1K+ option). My wife thinks I'm crazy to get > cloth seats, WHY? > For those of you driving a cloth-interior BMW from 199x, how do they > look now? Usually about twice as good as any leather will look after the same age. I would say less than 5% of BMW owners treat their leather or keep the car garaged day and night to prevent heat, UV, damage etc. I have seen cloth interiors look great after 10-15yrs, never seen a leather interior look good past 6-8yrs unless it was a car nut owner who maintained it. >What does the cloth interior smell like on a car with 100K > miles? Well that depends on what the owner smelled like, if they smoked in the car, lived in the car? ate in the car etc. I think the carpet, headliner etc will absorb strange smells just as easily as cloth seats, so if someone caused a funny smell, it would be in the leather car too. I have never really noticed much difference in car smells between leather & cloth. If someone was a smoker, it stank in both. Personally I would be all over the modern cloth/alcantra seats. They look good, feel good, never ice cold or frying pan hot like leather gets etc. But you will take a huge hit on resale for having cloth seats. People just have it in their mind that leather is a must. Same thing with sunroofs. If it costs you 800 new for the option, it will cost you about $1500 on the resale value when you are trying to sell a car without a sunroof. I had a 95 M3 with no sunroof, it was a deal breaker for about 10 folks. Mike

Reply to: Michael Lawrence <95m3ltw@comcast.net>

Top

-------------------- 6 --------------------

#6. Overheated e36 - from Rick Cardinal
Top
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 19:51:26 -0400 From: "Rick Cardinal" <cardinar@bellsouth.net> Subject: Overheated e36 My '95M3 67k miles, had it two months, overheated on the way home today. My ex-wife had several such failures in her '93 325i. My turn. I didn't notice the gauge all the way over, it's blocked my the wheel, until I had been on the highway for about 5 minutes. I pulled over, coolant was leaking/spraying thru the cap. Fan running, both hoses hot, so I assume the thermostat is not stuck closed. I let it sit for about an hour, (AAA said two hours to get a truck- rush hour Atlanta). When the gauge was back to 12 o'clock, I topped up the overflow to a little over the cold mark with water. Then I slowly got back on the highway to see how far I could get. Not far, within a minute, the temp went right back up again. It took me another two minutes or so to find a place to pull over, and right as I did, I heard a pop and I killed the motor. The driver's side radiator POS plastic hose connector broke. So, some advice folks. Hopefully I don't have any head damage, I realize it's a possibility. But what do you guys think caused this? The famous POS water pumps they put in these? I don't know if it has the newer style or not. But the mileage is right where this crap starts. So do I try to fix the radiator, or just get a new one? Damn thing looks new. Any suggestions much appreciated folks. thanks Rick in HOTlanta

Reply to: Rick Cardinal

Top

-------------------- 7 --------------------

#7. Re: [E36M3] Overheated e36 - from Geof McLaughlin
Top
Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 20:15:26 -0400 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Overheated e36 First culprits to look at are the thermostat and water pump and, less likely, the radiator cap. The thermostat should be replaced whether you think it's the culprit or not as overheating tends to make them go bad plus the fact that you're in there anyway and they're cheap. If the problem is not found in any of these items, you likely have a bad head gasket. If the plastic radiator neck broke, you need a new radiator (no way to fix properly) and, if not, the overheating probably has significantly weakened it such that it will break in the near future at of course an inopportune time. Geof At 06:58 PM 7/9/2003 -0500, Rick Cardinal wrote: >Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 19:51:26 -0400 >From: "Rick Cardinal" <cardinar@bellsouth.net> >Subject: Overheated e36 > >My '95M3 67k miles, had it two months, overheated on the way home today. >My ex-wife had several such failures in her '93 325i. >My turn. I didn't notice the gauge all the way over, it's blocked my the >wheel, until I had been on the highway for about 5 minutes. I pulled >over, coolant was leaking/spraying thru the cap. Fan running, both hoses >hot, so I assume the thermostat is not stuck closed. >I let it sit for about an hour, (AAA said two hours to get a truck- rush >hour Atlanta). When the gauge was back to 12 o'clock, I topped up the >overflow to a little over the cold mark with water. >Then I slowly got back on the highway to see how far I could get. Not >far, within a minute, the temp went right back up again. It took me >another two minutes or so to find a place to pull over, and right as I >did, I heard a pop and I killed the motor. The driver's side radiator >POS plastic hose connector broke. > >So, some advice folks. Hopefully I don't have any head damage, I realize >it's a possibility. >But what do you guys think caused this? The famous POS water pumps they >put in these? I don't know if it has the newer style or not. But the >mileage is right where this crap starts. >So do I try to fix the radiator, or just get a new one? Damn thing looks >new. > >Any suggestions much appreciated folks. > >thanks > >Rick in HOTlanta > > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: >Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > > > >This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential and >privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient, >please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail, delete this >e-mail and destroy any copies. Any dissemination or use of this >information by a person other than the intended recipient is >unauthorized and may be illegal.

Reply to: Geof McLaughlin

Top

-------------------- 8 --------------------

#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: Oil Distribution Block - from ChuckBrazeau@aol.com
Top
Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 22:47:17 -0400 From: ChuckBrazeau@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Oil Distribution Block Ah well... i wasn't aware of that little tidbit (probably something VDO mentions in the instructions... AFTER you've purchased the stuff. :-P). So... the cheaper standard thread dual sender (360-009) plus the BMP angle adapter would probably only be a few dollars more. Good thing you brought that up, Neil... probably saved me a $60 mistake! Chuck Brazeau 1995 BMW M3 - Violet on Black SCCA Solo2 - Street Modified #95 http://www.brazeauracing.com/ In a message dated 7/9/2003 4:38:27 PM Eastern Standard Time, neil.maller@gte.net writes: > However according to VDO, as reported some time ago by Jim Powell, their > dual sender needs to be mounted within 45 degrees of vertical to avoid > premature failure. If you screw it directly into the oil filter housing it's > be horizontal. > > That's why BMP, for instance, supplies a simple oil adapter block even if > you only need a "one holer." This is what I'm currently > using, and which > will be replaced with a JTD block. > > Neil > 96 M3

Reply to:

Top

-------------------- 9 --------------------

#9. Re: [E36M3] Overheated e36 - from Michael Lawrence
Top
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 23:24:14 -0400 From: "Michael Lawrence" <95m3ltw@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Overheated e36 Hate to say it, but I have never seen a E36 overheat and not ruin the head gasket. Might take a few months before something happens, but count on it happening. If you do discover a problem that caused it besides the head gasket, still have a shop do a coolant sniff test for combustion products, which will tell if the gasket is leaking. Worst case scenario would be you driving the car, the gaskets starts leaking enough coolant into a cylinder and it hydro locks the piston. I have pics of a M3 motor with holes in the block from that exact issue. It had been overheated months before this problem, it would use coolant, but a very small amount. We were at the track and it would start warming up sitting still, but at speed was fine, until it went boom. So I cant stress enough about having that checked and keep an eye on it if all checks ok In most cases, it is only the head gasket, not a warped head. Something about the high temps cause high pressures in the coolant passages which force coolant around the head gasket, forming a future spot for problems with the head gasket. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick Cardinal" <cardinar@bellsouth.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2003 7:58 PM Subject: [E36M3] Overheated e36 > Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 19:51:26 -0400 > From: "Rick Cardinal" <cardinar@bellsouth.net> > Subject: Overheated e36 > > My '95M3 67k miles, had it two months, overheated on the way home today. > My ex-wife had several such failures in her '93 325i. > My turn. I didn't notice the gauge all the way over, it's blocked my the > wheel, until I had been on the highway for about 5 minutes. I pulled > over, coolant was leaking/spraying thru the cap. Fan running, both hoses > hot, so I assume the thermostat is not stuck closed. > I let it sit for about an hour, (AAA said two hours to get a truck- rush > hour Atlanta). When the gauge was back to 12 o'clock, I topped up the > overflow to a little over the cold mark with water. > Then I slowly got back on the highway to see how far I could get. Not > far, within a minute, the temp went right back up again. It took me > another two minutes or so to find a place to pull over, and right as I > did, I heard a pop and I killed the motor. The driver's side radiator > POS plastic hose connector broke. > > So, some advice folks. Hopefully I don't have any head damage, I realize > it's a possibility. > But what do you guys think caused this? The famous POS water pumps they > put in these? I don't know if it has the newer style or not. But the > mileage is right where this crap starts. > So do I try to fix the radiator, or just get a new one? Damn thing looks > new. > > Any suggestions much appreciated folks. > > thanks > > Rick in HOTlanta > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > > This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential and > privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient, > please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail, delete this > e-mail and destroy any copies. Any dissemination or use of this > information by a person other than the intended recipient is > unauthorized and may be illegal.

Reply to: Michael Lawrence <95m3ltw@comcast.net>

Top

-------------------- 10 --------------------

#10. erattic fuel level readings - from Scott M
Top
Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 23:46:57 -0700 From: Scott M <smlists@pacbell.net> Subject: erattic fuel level readings I've been having this problem in my '98 M3/4 for several months now and it's not getting any better. A buddy of mine has also seen this in his '98 M3/4 but his doesn't do it all the time. When the gas tank is full, the gauge jumps between full and empty - bumps will often dislodge the sending unit and send it the other direction. Once it gets down a couple gallons it tends to read correctly, but today for the first time I realized the gauge wasn't hardly dropping and I had 240 miles of combo driving @21mpg showing right around 1/2 tank. Took 12 gallons so it should have been reading 1/4 or below. I'm guessing sending unit is sticking. Anyone had this problem before? I'm tempted to take it to the dealer because I don't really want to mess around with the gas tank, but before I do I will ask if there is an easy fix or if the sending unit is perhaps easier than I might imagine to replace.... I should look at the Bentley but asking this knowledgeable group first is always the way to go. Scott '98 M3/4 '99 540iT

Reply to: Scott M

Top