-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. cracked rear shock tower - from Lin Gary
Top
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 00:11:33 -0400 From: "Lin Gary" <Lin_Gary@bah.com> Subject: cracked rear shock tower Hi everyone, I'm getting back on after an absence. I own Prakash Maggan's 330ti and love it. I've had several minor/moderate issues, currently the right rear shock tower cracked about 2" down each mount stud. I'm having Piper Motorsports fix it tomorrow. How common is this, and any tricks to repairing it? Gary Lin 330ti 325i
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. RE: [E36M3]overheat - from Rick Cardinal
Top
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 00:21:18 -0400 From: "Rick Cardinal" <cardinar@bellsouth.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3]overheat Gee Joe, thanks for your insightful advice....I think. > -------------------- 2 -------------------- > Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 09:51:30 -0700 (PDT) > From: Joe Tan <mailjtan@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: Overheated e36 > > >My '95M3 67k miles, had it two months, overheated on > the way home today. > > One of the most common failure of an E36 car. > > >My ex-wife had several such failures in her '93 325i. > >My turn. I didn't notice the gauge all the way over, > it's blocked my > >the wheel, until I had been on the highway for about > 5 minutes. I pulled > >over, coolant was leaking/spraying thru the cap. Fan > running, both > >hoses hot, so I assume the thermostat is not stuck > closed. > > Good assumption. But there must be something wrong to > overheat the car right? > > >I let it sit for about an hour, (AAA said two hours > to get a truck- > >rush hour Atlanta). When the gauge was back to 12 > o'clock, I topped up the > >overflow to a little over the cold mark with water. > >Then I slowly got back on the highway to see how far > I could get. Not > >far, within a minute, the temp went right back up > again. It took me > >another two minutes or so to find a place to pull > over, and right as I > >did, I heard a pop and I killed the motor. The > driver's side radiator > >POS plastic hose connector broke. > > Very bad judgement on your part to drive the car again > after being overheated. This move might have cost you > a new radiator and possible a warped head for > overheating the motor too long. > > >So, some advice folks. Hopefully I don't have any > head damage, I > >realize it's a possibility. > >But what do you guys think caused this? The famous > POS water pumps they > >put in these? I don't know if it has the newer style > or not. But the > >mileage is right where this crap starts. > >So do I try to fix the radiator, or just get a new > one? Damn thing looks new. > > One of the most obviou culprit is the water pump. I > am ammazed how much we talk about the piece of time > bomb called the water pump sitting on our E36 car and > still people chooses to ignore it. > > >Any suggestions much appreciated folks. > > At this point what you need to do is change the water > pump, thermostat, install a aluminium thermostat > housing, new radiator (Aluminium one if you can get > one at a decent price) and have the mechanic check to > see if there is any damanges to the head/headgasket > from overheating. Good luck! > > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month! > http://sbc.yahoo.com > > > > -------------------- 3 -------------------- > Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 13:08:25 -0400 > From: <cardinar@bellsouth.net> > Subject: E36m3 overheated > > > >-------------------- 8 -------------------- > Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 11:25:10 EDT > From: LoweSeaton@aol.com > Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Overheated e36 > > james@bimmerworld.com writes: > > > Drill a couple of holes in the new > > thermostat. > > > Thanks for the reply James. I too would like to know the > reason for the holes. How big? > > Rick > > > > > -------------------- 4 -------------------- > Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 10:22:05 -0700 > From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@BOEING.COM> > Subject: RE: 88C or 92C thermostat on a '97 > > From: "JUSTIN asked: > "What is everyone running? 88C or 92C thermostat on a '97?" > > I believe that the later E36(M3 only?) were built with the > 92C thermostat to _help_ compliance with emissions standards > (OBII 96+?). Back in a previous life - on a different car - I > have run 180F (maybe 160F) thermostat to get maximum power as > the engine as a whole does not get as hot (and suffer as > significant heat soak?). I think mechanicals tend to wear > more and combustion is less complete (lower mpg) as result of > the lower 'charge' temperature. > 80C = 176F > 88C = 190F > 92C = 197F > > Hope that helps > Kim Burgess > 99M3/2 w/o s-roof > > > > -------------------- 5 -------------------- > Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 13:29:00 -0400 > From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Overheated e36 > > Last fall, when I replaced the cooling system parts on my E34, the > replacement thermostat had a small hole already drilled. I > oriented the > thermostat so the hole was at the highest point. > > > Ron Buchalski > BMWCCA #76387 > 1995 E36 M3 > 1993 E34 525iT > 1999 Mazda Miata > > > >Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 11:32:48 -0400 > >From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispy@ieee.org> > >Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Overheated e36 > > > >At 10:28 AM 7/10/2003 -0500, LoweSeaton@aol.com wrote: > > >james@bimmerworld.com writes: > > > > Drill a couple of holes in the new > > > > thermostat. > > > >I'm not sure why James suggested this, but I've done this in > the past for > >other cars to assist in bleeding the system. It allows air > bubbles to > >bleed through while the system is cool, but doesn't allow > enough flow to > >hinder the thermostat's function when it needs to be closed. > > > > - Chris > > _________________________________________________________________ > Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail > > > > > -------------------- 6 -------------------- > Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 15:48:24 -0400 > From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> > Subject: Chicagoland Dealer recommencations > > A friend of mine from Chicago is looking to join the ranks of > BMW owners and I'd like to see him get a good start. > > Can anyone recommend a dealer in the Chicago area, good or > bad, so I can advise him? > > Thanks in advance. > > > > Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, '86 325e w/i cam > BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters > JC CAIed and Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced > > > > > > -------------------- 7 -------------------- > Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 15:17:19 -0500 > From: "Jamie Howton" <jhowton@fotofab.com> > Subject: RE: [uuc] Chicagoland Dealer recommencations > > > -----Original Message----- > > Can anyone recommend a dealer in the Chicago area, good or > > bad, so I can advise him? > > I bought my 330i from Patrick BMW in Schaumburg. They weren't bad to > deal with from a sales perspective, I got a pretty fair deal on the > exact car that I wanted and they gave me more than I thought > I'd get for > my trade-in. Their service department has been OK, but I > have recently > started to take my cars to Motorwerks in Barrington for service and am > very pleased with them. I would recommend either dealership > FWIW. BTW, > here is a list of all of the Chicago area BMW dealerships: > > http://www.chicagoluxurycars.com/bmw.php > > Hope this helps. > > Jamie Howton > 2002 330i 5 Spd Steel Blue Metallic SP > 1995 M3 5 Spd Arctic Silver > 1979 Porsche 928 5 Speed Opalmetallic > > > > > > > > > -------------------- 8 -------------------- > Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 19:19:24 -0400 > From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] URGENT!! TRACK tires needed ASAP in Atlanta > > You might check if you local Discount Tire has some Toyo Proxes RA1 in > stock. > > Jeremy Lucas > 95 M3 > > > > > -------------------- 9 -------------------- > Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 19:49:25 -0700 > From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] erattic fuel level readings > > At 11:48 PM 7/9/03, Scott M wrote: > >When the gas tank is full, the gauge jumps between full and > empty - bumps > >will often dislodge the sending unit and send it the other > direction. Once > >it gets down a couple gallons it tends to read correctly, > but today for the > >first time I realized the gauge wasn't hardly dropping and I > had 240 miles > >of combo driving @21mpg showing right around 1/2 tank. Took > 12 gallons so > >it should have been reading 1/4 or below. > > Neil's comments are, as usual, spot on with regard to the > fuel senders. > I've been through one of each, sender/pump combo and > sender-only. And as > soon as I'm gainfully employed I'll be needing *another* > sender pump combo. > At least this time I haven't (stupidly) run out of gas :-) > > I've had good results getting parts at Zygmunt aka > Bimmerparts.com. ~$112 > for the pump, ~$33 for the sender. I usually get a new rubber > gasket as > well (~$3). > > My 2 cents, > Jim Bassett > 1998 M3/4 > 1993 325is #44 JP/A5 > > > > > -------------------- 10 -------------------- > Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 22:41:50 -0500 > From: Kevin McLeaster <kmcleaster@iquest.net> > Subject: Reading Check Engine Codes - Whats the Trick? > > I'm trying to read the OBD-1 check engine codes on my 1995 M3. > > I've tried repeatedly to get the Check Engine Light to flash after > depressing the accelerator 5 times. The check engine light > just stays on. > > What am I doing wrong? The car's build date is 6/95. > > > Kevin D. McLeaster WB9HMI > '95 M3 Arctic Silver > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential and > privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient, > please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail, delete this > e-mail and destroy any copies. Any dissemination or use of this > information by a person other than the intended recipient is > unauthorized and may be illegal. >
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. Re: cracked rear shock tower - from Lin Gary
Top
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 00:24:18 -0400 From: "Lin Gary" <Lin_Gary@bah.com> Subject: Re: cracked rear shock tower Doh, bop me on the head, I've found the archives. }-o Gary Lin wrote: > Hi everyone, I'm getting back on after an absence. I own Prakash Maggan's 330ti and love it. I've had several minor/moderate issues, currently the right rear shock tower cracked about 2" down each mount stud. I'm having Piper Motorsports fix it tomorrow. How common is this, and any tricks to repairing it? > > Gary Lin > 330ti 325i
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. Engine Codes - from Steve Klein
Top
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 09:43:12 -0700 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Engine Codes Hello, Kevin- In case others haven't replied, with the key in the run position (the last detent before 'start') you must press FULLY and release COMPLETELY the pedal within five seconds. It took me several tries before I could get the rhythm down. I tap briskly, taking about 2.5-3 sec. total, and that seems to work just fine. I think the biggest thing to remember is full pedal travel both up and down. I hope this helps and good luck! Steve
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. RE: [E36M3] RE: Overheated e36 - from James Clay
Top
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 11:10:36 -0400 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: Overheated e36 Usually 5 1/4" holes on a track car. Around the outer restrictor that doesn't move, positioned in an arc at the top. Keeps air from getting trapped that would normally cause an air pocket that blocks flow and overheats the car. Not intended as a fix for a non-working thermostat. James James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com <http://www.bimmerworld.com/> Engineered BMW Performance 540.639.9648 -----Original Message----- From: LoweSeaton@aol.com [mailto:LoweSeaton@aol.com] Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 11:25 AM To: james@bimmerworld.com; e36m3@bmw-m.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Overheated e36 james@bimmerworld.com writes: Drill a couple of holes in the new thermostat. James, What is the purpose of this modification? Have you really done this? I imagine it is easier said than done. I doubt if two small holes will do much good if the thermostat completely fails and doesn't open. You will still overheat the engine. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 Dallas, Texas
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. Tip - Stuck brake rotor - from Hunt Hodgetts
Top
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 08:24:31 -0700 (PDT) From: Hunt Hodgetts <hhodgetts@yahoo.com> Subject: Tip - Stuck brake rotor There was a recent thread about removing a stuck brake rotor. One solution proposed was to use a hammer to break the rotor loose. Someone then mentioned to watch your toes to make sure that the rotor doesn't fall on them. I had my rotors replaced today and they were stuck. Before breaking them loose with a hammer, the mechanic took two lug bolts and screwed them in a few turns so that when the rotor broke loose, it would not fall. Since your wheel will already be off, the lug bolts will already be handy. This may save someone a broken toe! __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month! http://sbc.yahoo.com
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. suspension question - from Hunt Hodgetts
Top
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 08:32:31 -0700 (PDT) From: Hunt Hodgetts <hhodgetts@yahoo.com> Subject: suspension question I recently purchsed a black 96 M3. It was lowered by the previous owner. One of the springs had the following part number on it: BMW M3 29 910 VA. Does BMW make a lowering spring? Could these be LTW springs? Also, I have a problem with the suspension on this car. When I hit a small bump, like a 1 inch rise at the end of a bridge; the car sounds like it just hit a curb! It's so loud and so hard that i'm worried about damaging the rest of the suspension. Would this be caused by the lowered springs alone or would the shocks also be contributing to the problem? __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month! http://sbc.yahoo.com
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. Re: [E36M3] suspension question - from cteague@cox.net
Top
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 11:55:56 -0400 From: <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] suspension question Hunt, You have H&R Sport Springs, as do I. I rarely bottom mine out, so I would guess your shocks are also in need of replacement. If they are still OEM, then for sure, you need new shocks. Even with that, you still need to be a little careful with the H&R sports since they remove some suspension travel. But I only bottom out on large potholes. Chris 97 M3/4 > Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 08:32:31 -0700 (PDT) > From: Hunt Hodgetts <hhodgetts@yahoo.com> > Subject: suspension question > > I recently purchsed a black 96 M3. It was lowered by > the previous owner. One of the springs had the > following part number on it: BMW M3 29 910 VA. > Does BMW make a lowering spring? > Could these be LTW springs? > > Also, I have a problem with the suspension on this > car. When I hit a small bump, like a 1 inch rise at > the end of a bridge; the car sounds like it just hit a > curb! It's so loud and so hard that i'm worried about > damaging the rest of the suspension. Would this be > caused by the lowered springs alone or would the > shocks also be contributing to the problem?
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. Re: Reading Check Engine Codes - Whats the Trick? - from Ron Buchalski
Top
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 12:10:12 -0400 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Reading Check Engine Codes - Whats the Trick? Some tips to get this to work: 1) Begin with the ignition off. Turn the ignition to the ON position 2) Within 2-3 seconds of turning the ignition on, begin to press and release the accelerator pedal. You need to FULLY depress (to engage the full throttle switch) and FULLY release (to engage the closed throttle switch) the accelerator pedal five times, within the span of five seconds. I use the old 'football count' cadence to pace the pressing and releasing of the accelerator pedal. It goes like this: *press* "One thousand" *release* "ONE" *press* "One thousand" *release* "TWO" *press* "One thousand" *release* "THREE" *press* "One thousand" *release* "FOUR" *press* "One thousand" *release* "FIVE" After the fifth release, the CE light should begin flashing within two seconds. This works on both my '93 E34 525iT as well as my '95 M3. Hope this helps. Ron Buchalski BMWCCA #76387 1995 E36 M3 1993 E34 525iT 1999 Mazda Miata >Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 22:41:50 -0500 >From: Kevin McLeaster <kmcleaster@iquest.net> >Subject: Reading Check Engine Codes - Whats the Trick? > >I'm trying to read the OBD-1 check engine codes on my 1995 M3. > >I've tried repeatedly to get the Check Engine Light to flash after >depressing the accelerator 5 times. The check engine light just stays on. > >What am I doing wrong? The car's build date is 6/95. > > >Kevin D. McLeaster WB9HMI >'95 M3 Arctic Silver _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. question about swapping parts - from Hunt Hodgetts
Top
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 09:40:39 -0700 (PDT) From: Hunt Hodgetts <hhodgetts@yahoo.com> Subject: question about swapping parts I have two E36 M3's at the moment. A 96 Black coupe and a 97 Silver sedan. I'll be keeping the 97 and selling the 96. The 96 coupe has clear tail lights and front turn signals which I would like to keep. Are these parts identical or does the sedan require different parts? __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month! http://sbc.yahoo.com