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#1. Control Arms - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 15:46:21 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Control Arms How quickly did anyone see failure of the front control arms on a 1995 M3 (mileage and/or track use)? I am getting more noise (particularly on rutted/bumpy roads at lower speeds) on the right front side and I believe it is coming from the outer ball joint (to the spindle). When I replaced the suspension, I found the noise to get worse (it was there before but at the time I suspected the sway bar links and eliminated them as a choice by removing them entirely) due to the camber/caster plates that were installed and transmitted more noise. I have 42k miles and 16 track days and they are the original arms. I am deciding between replacing the entire arms (about $350 for OE arms and bushings) or just replacing the outer bushings (less than $50). I think it might be wise to go with a complete replacement at this point to avoid total arm failure on the track. Best regards, Rich
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#2. Skinny Fan clutch wrench - from cardinar@bellsouth.net
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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 15:53:23 -0400 From: <cardinar@bellsouth.net> Subject: Skinny Fan clutch wrench Anyone have a source for the 32mm skinny wrench needed to remove the fan on the S50US ? I hate to grind down a Craftsman wrench for this, but at $25 may be my best bet. Snapon has a "slim " version for $50. I could also rent I guess from koalamotorsport. Thanks, Rick
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Skinny Fan clutch wrench - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 15:01:56 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Skinny Fan clutch wrench <cardinar@bellsouth.net> wrote: > > Anyone have a source for the 32mm skinny wrench needed to remove > the fan on the S50US ? Rick, Most bicycle shops carry thin 32mm open end wrenches. I got a Facom set from www.ultimategarage.com that included a 32mm wrench. You could check with Steve D to see if he would sell it to you separately. alex f
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Skinny Fan clutch wrench - from Mick
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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 14:57:33 -0500 From: Mick <mick@lowdrag.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Skinny Fan clutch wrench * cardinar@bellsouth.net <cardinar@bellsouth.net> [030711 14:53]: > Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 15:53:23 -0400 > From: <cardinar@bellsouth.net> > Subject: Skinny Fan clutch wrench > > > Anyone have a source for the 32mm skinny wrench needed to remove the fan on the > S50US ? Nearest bicycle shop ahould have one for about $10 or so. -- -Mick mick@lowdrag.org OpenPGP info is in the X-mail headers '$A=A;for(0..14689){$A++}print"\U$A"'
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Control Arms - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 15:26:14 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Control Arms "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> wrote: > > How quickly did anyone see failure of the front control arms on a 1995 > M3 (mileage and/or track use)? Rich, Define 'failure'. I've just swapped rear subframe bushings on my 78K '95 M3. 6-10 DEs and 3-4 complete autoX seasons. The car did have it easy for the first 45K miles as one of numerous investment banker's toys. On the outside rubber middle of the bushing there was a shallow crack running 1/3 around the inner sleeve. Nothing on the inside. Does that count as a failure? I don't know, but I replaced it anyway. My front control arm bushings are original and are beginning to develop a 1/4" crack running past the edges of the slit in the bushing. I am planning to replace them with new as soon as I get a chance. The control arm itself as still good, the pivot ball joint boot is still good and there is no play in the joint itself. > I am getting more noise (particularly on rutted/bumpy roads at lower > speeds) on the right front side and I believe it is coming from the > outer ball joint (to the spindle). When I replaced the suspension, > I found the noise to get worse (it was there before but at the time > I suspected the sway bar links and eliminated them as a choice by > removing them entirely) Did you remove only the links or the entire sway bar? I've traced most front end noises to those flimsy brackets. Rarely the links. > due to the camber/caster plates that were installed and transmitted > more noise. > I have 42k miles and 16 track days and they are the original arms. It's a bit too early for the tie rods, but to give them a few good tugs to rule them out. > I am deciding between replacing the entire arms (about $350 for OE > arms and bushings) or just replacing the outer bushings (less than > $50). How do the bushings look? If you do replace them and than suspect the arms, you could always pull the new bushings off the old arms and install them back on the new arms. > I think it might be wise to go with a complete replacement at this > point to avoid total arm failure on the track. I've never heard of non-aluminum CA failure on track from any of the local club racers. And even than the suggestion is to replace the aluminum E30M3 CAs after 1-2 racing seasons. There is an internet rumor going around prophesying imminent steel CA failure if they are not replaced annually. I'm not sure I buy that given the E30 CA track record (i.e.: arms last forever, the bushings/ball joints are subject to wear). Frequent CA replacement may steel be a safe and 'relatively inexpensive' regular maintenance item for a Club Racer. But for a regular E36M3 owner it seams like an overkill. alex f
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#6. RE: [E36M3] 95 E36 M3 Knock Sensor #2 - from Robert S. Hatrak II
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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 13:29:14 -0700 From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <rshatrakii@earthlink.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] 95 E36 M3 Knock Sensor #2 Thanks for the help, Alex! The current sensor was put on by the dealer...so I'd hope it was installed correctly. Rob -----Original Message----- Rob, Bentley instructions are pretty accurate. #2 is the rear (cyl 4-6) sensor, right? If so, figure 6-12 hours for the job. If not for the need to remove the intake manifold to get access to the sensor, it would have been a 10 minute job. IIRC, you could access the front (cyl 1-3) knock sensor by just removing the air filter box, HFM and plumbing. > Oddly, I am getting a 1226 code again on my car. The last time I got > that was 1/2002. I would think they would last longer than that! Did sure you mount the new sensor in the same orientation as the one that came out? Torqued to speq? It should indeed last longer than 18 months... alex f
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#7. Noisy suspension answer - from TFRM3@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 17:14:11 EDT From: TFRM3@aol.com Subject: Noisy suspension answer "the car sounds like it just hit a curb! It's so loud and so hard that i'm worried about damaging the rest of the suspension." This is caused by the springs coil binding. The coils are actually touching each other, metal to metal. Very common. Shocks by themslves won't help, unless you install a shock that inadvertently limits suspension travel, ie Bilstein. You could theoretically add extra bumps stops to keep the suspension from moving the springs very far also, I have heard of this being done. Jay M
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#8. RE: [E36M3] Control Arms - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 17:50:04 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Control Arms "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> wrote: >> >> How quickly did anyone see failure of the front control arms on a 1995 >> M3 (mileage and/or track use)? > Define 'failure'. Failure as in the outer ball joint that attaches to the spindle is worn and moving around excessively, causing noise and unnecessary play. I basically went on to say that in my next sentence (see below). > I've just swapped rear subframe bushings on my 78K '95 M3. 6-10 DEs and > 3-4 complete autoX seasons. The car did have it easy for the first 45K > miles as one of numerous investment banker's toys. > On the outside rubber middle of the bushing there was a shallow crack > running 1/3 around the inner sleeve. Nothing on the inside. Does that > count as a failure? I don't know, but I replaced it anyway. > My front control arm bushings are original and are beginning to develop a > 1/4" crack running past the edges of the slit in the bushing. I am > planning to replace them with new as soon as I get a chance. > The control arm itself as still good, the pivot ball joint boot is still > good and there is no play in the joint itself. I'll have to look closely at the bushings but they are not too worn. But, I would replace them if I did the arms since it would only make sense IMO for the dollars involved. >> I am getting more noise (particularly on rutted/bumpy roads at lower >> speeds) on the right front side and I believe it is coming from the >> outer ball joint (to the spindle). When I replaced the suspension, >> I found the noise to get worse (it was there before but at the time >> I suspected the sway bar links and eliminated them as a choice by >> removing them entirely) > Did you remove only the links or the entire sway bar? > I've traced most front end noises to those flimsy brackets. Rarely the > links. I removed the entire bars, brackets and links. There is nothing left to make noise associated with the sway bars. >> due to the camber/caster plates that were installed and transmitted >> more noise. >> I have 42k miles and 16 track days and they are the original arms. > It's a bit too early for the tie rods, but to give them a few good tugs to > rule them out. They seem fine. >> I am deciding between replacing the entire arms (about $350 for OE >> arms and bushings) or just replacing the outer bushings (less than >> $50). > How do the bushings look? > If you do replace them and than suspect the arms, you could always pull > the new bushings off the old arms and install them back on the new arms. I wouldn't bother. The bushings would end up failing before the new arms would fail. Seems like a false economy to me. >> I think it might be wise to go with a complete replacement at this >> point to avoid total arm failure on the track. > I've never heard of non-aluminum CA failure on track from any of the local > club racers. And even than the suggestion is to replace the aluminum E30M3 > CAs after 1-2 racing seasons. > There is an internet rumor going around prophesying imminent steel CA > failure if they are not replaced annually. I'm not sure I buy that given > the E30 CA track record (i.e.: arms last forever, the bushings/ball joints > are subject to wear). > Frequent CA replacement may steel be a safe and 'relatively inexpensive' > regular maintenance item for a Club Racer. But for a regular E36M3 owner > it seams like an overkill. I have heard of a steel arm failing along with the ball joints failing. It is rarer than the aluminum arms for sure. I may just replace the outer ball joints as it should be fairly easy to do with the factory tools. Regards, Rich
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#9. Re: [E36M3] 95 E36 M3 Knock Sensor #2 - from Roger Graves
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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 22:56:06 -0400 From: Roger Graves <RogRacer@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 95 E36 M3 Knock Sensor #2 Rob, Before replacing number 2, I'd try cleaning the electrical connector at the DME....doing that silenced my codes for almost 18 months. Reports of re-torquing the spark plugs have also indicated success in some cases. Alas, my codes have returned lately, and I'm going to replace my sensors (Hi Chester!!....You ARE sending me my knock sensors aren't you?) Roger '95 M3
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#10. new Brembo rotors are on! - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 13:23:49 EDT From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: new Brembo rotors are on! Group, I'd like to thank everyone who emailed me last week with helpful hints on removing seven year old, OE, rusted on rotors. Basically what I took away from this experience was; 1) you can follow the Bentley manual to remove all parts leading up to the final step -- removing the rotors 2) Bentley says, "and remove rotor" ...ha,ha,ha very funny! This is where true experience from people on this list really pays off 3) So armed with new knowledge from those in the know, spray PB Blaster (or other penetrant) into every space between the rotor and the hub (areas around lug holes, the rotor set screw hole, the seam between the hub and rotor inside edge) and bang the heck out of the rotor hat with a 3 lb. sledge hammer (on face and on edge), to loosen years of rust. 4) After only a few minutes, tap rotor from behind with Mr. Sledge, rotate rotor one quarter turn do again, continue to do this and pretty soon...bingo...rotor is sitting right in your grimy little hands. 5) Stop...pause...grin...admire work...at this point after the beverage of your choice, you can now reverse the procedure. 6) Before putting new rotors on, apply anti-seize to make the job a little easier next time 7) Adjust rear parking brake since you had to retract the internal pads anyway to get the rear rotors off 8) Torque all nuts and rotor screw back down to the Bentley specs (front bolts - 110mN, rear bolts - 67mN, and rotor screw - 16 Nm) 9) Follow the break-in procedure on the Zeckhausen website (zeckhausen.com) and your set I'd say that PB Blaster stuff really works. I experimented with the rears by not using the PB Blaster, rotors would not break loose. Next, spray that stuff into every hole, and like magic, the rotors came free. Thats POWER! Thanks again, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA BSP Champion '01 & '02