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#1. Replacing Sway Bar Endlinks ... - from The Buch
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Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 20:31:30 -0700 From: The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> Subject: Replacing Sway Bar Endlinks ... Trying this next to get rid of a very subtle creak/clunk when starting up in first (Gen III too loud to hear it otherwise?). I would appreciate any suggestions for anything else to replace at the same time?? Thanks, Doug
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#2. My 1995 M3 LTW for sale - from Msebmwman@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 01:40:45 EDT From: Msebmwman@aol.com Subject: My 1995 M3 LTW for sale All; I'm putting my 1995 M3 LTW up for sale. I don't really need 2 1995 E36M3s in my garage. Please see information below. Thanks, Marc 1995 E36 M3 Lightweight for sale. Rare and beautiful car (only ~125 were made for US only). VIN: WBSBF9320SEH08047. Manufacture date 10/95. Third owner car since July, 1999. 35,xxx miles and in great condition. Second place finisher at LA BMW CCA clean car contest on April 27, 2003. California car for last 3.5 years, garaged and lovingly maintained by an enthusiast. All stock LTW motorsport parts are installed (adjustable front splitter, rear wing with risers, front strut tower brace, X-brace, GT dual-pickup oil pan). Stock LTW suspension, stock LTW intake and exhaust, stock wheels and spare, stock interior. Additional significant modifications include: TC Kline bolt-in rollbar, European M3 oil-cooler, gauge package, stereo, fire extinguisher, Momo non-airbag steering wheel, stainless steel brake lines, motorsport front rotors, Alpine alarm system. Also has metal impeller water pump and aluminum thermostat cover. New Redline motor oil, gearbox oil, rear differential oil, ATE Typ200 brake fluid replaced and extensive interior and exterior detailing less than 1000 miles ago. Full service history available to serious buyers. Buyer is responsible for arranging inspections and any shipping or transportation. Price: $ 34,500 firm. Seller: Marc Edwards Location: Granada Hills, California (LA area, San Fernando Valley) For more info and pics of this car: http://www.spgmotorsports.com/ltw/ Serious inquiries only please by e-mail please: msebmwman@aol.com
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#3. Re: Engine Codes - Stored? - from Steve Klein
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Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 10:01:30 -0700 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Re: Engine Codes - Stored? That's the biggie question of the day, as to whether the codes remain stored on some level not accessed by the 'pedal dance'. I had the #2 knock sensor throw a CE light, (which it has done before, so I had it replaced) and this time, the code went away on its own about a week later. However, knowing that the engine de-tunes itself with a knock sensor fault for protection, I'm wondering if the OBD is keeping that information on file and the engine de-tuned until it gets an 'official' check and reset. I'll be going into the shop for some work shortly, so I'll have a better Idea then, but I'm still curious. Cheers, Steve On Tuesday, July 15, 2003, at 07:01 AM, Ron Buchalski wrote: > > If the DME detects a fault condition, it will illuminate the CE light > and store the code. But if the problem clears, the DME will > eventually turn off the CE light, and I'm pretty sure it eventually > resets the code, because I never cleared the 1221 code manually, or > had a dealer do it, but if I do the 'gas pedal dance' now, the CE > light flashes 1444.
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#4. Need new race tires, opinions? - from DocWyte
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Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 08:10:10 -0700 (PDT) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: Need new race tires, opinions? Hey guys, Finally killed my race tires and need some input on what to get next. I have a '95 M3 stock suspension with the exception of SA koni's and '96 hats swapped side to side for -2 degrees of camber. I use the tires almost exclusively for auto-x. I'm mounting them on factory ltw wheels. I'm currently using 225-45-17 front and 255-40-17 rear Victoracers. The left rear victo slightly contacts my superspring exhaust can, but doesn't cause any real damage, just kinda polishes the tire and can. I'm not really interested in the Hoosiers, they're just too much $$. My main interest is in the Victos vs the new V700's vs the Toyo RA1's vs the new Yoko A032's... I compete in the BMWCCA auto-x, and do like to have fun and be a little competitive, but I'm not all that competitive that I need the absolutely best, stickiest tire out there if you know what I mean. I do like the victo's and am leaning toward just getting them again, but I'd like to hear what else is out there and I wouldn't mind getting a better size like 235-40 all the way round... -josh ===== __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month! http://sbc.yahoo.com
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Need new race tires, opinions? - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 08:15:50 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Need new race tires, opinions? DocWyte at josh_wyte@yahoo.com wrote: > I'm currently using 225-45-17 front and 255-40-17 rear > Victoracers. The left rear victo slightly contacts my > superspring exhaust can, but doesn't cause any real > damage, just kinda polishes the tire and can. [snip] > I compete in the BMWCCA auto-x, and do like to have > fun and be a little competitive, but I'm not all that > competitive that I need the absolutely best, stickiest > tire out there if you know what I mean. I do like the > victo's and am leaning toward just getting them again, > but I'd like to hear what else is out there and I > wouldn't mind getting a better size like 235-40 all > the way round... Why not go 255/40-17 all around and get rid of some of that amazing understeer? With a 30mm disparity front/rear, your car must push like a pig. 255/40-17 Kumhos should fit all the way around, with the tightest being in the rear (I had to roll the hell out of my rear fenders, even with 17x8.5 ET40 wheels, and I still get a little rub under hard cornering). - Mark -- mark@pdc-racing.net
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Need new race tires, opinions? - from DocWyte
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Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 08:25:26 -0700 (PDT) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Need new race tires, opinions? It actually only pushes in low speed tight corners. I can throttle steer it through anything else. :-) Can't go to 255-40 fronts unless someone wants to swap me my '95 ltw front 7.5 wheels for a pair of 8.5's... Any comment on the V700, RA1's, A032R's? -josh --- Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> wrote: > Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 08:15:50 -0700 > From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Need new race tires, opinions? > > DocWyte at josh_wyte@yahoo.com wrote: > > I'm currently using 225-45-17 front and 255-40-17 > rear > > Victoracers. The left rear victo slightly > contacts my > > superspring exhaust can, but doesn't cause any > real > > damage, just kinda polishes the tire and can. > [snip] > > I compete in the BMWCCA auto-x, and do like to > have > > fun and be a little competitive, but I'm not all > that > > competitive that I need the absolutely best, > stickiest > > tire out there if you know what I mean. I do like > the > > victo's and am leaning toward just getting them > again, > > but I'd like to hear what else is out there and I > > wouldn't mind getting a better size like 235-40 > all > > the way round... > > Why not go 255/40-17 all around and get rid of some > of that amazing > understeer? With a 30mm disparity front/rear, your > car must push like a > pig. > > 255/40-17 Kumhos should fit all the way around, with > the tightest being in > the rear (I had to roll the hell out of my rear > fenders, even with 17x8.5 > ET40 wheels, and I still get a little rub under hard > cornering). > > - Mark > -- > mark@pdc-racing.net > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > > This e-mail and any attachments may contain > confidential and > privileged information. If you are not the intended > recipient, > please notify the sender immediately by return > e-mail, delete this > e-mail and destroy any copies. Any dissemination or > use of this > information by a person other than the intended > recipient is > unauthorized and may be illegal. ===== __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month! http://sbc.yahoo.com
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#7. RE: Short shift kit - corrected links - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 08:25:57 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: Short shift kit - corrected links Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> wrote: <snip> "The MZ3 lever requires more force because it's not working at the right angle." <snip> Interestingly enough I believe that Ron Stygar had documented the mis-alignment and had a fix - all using stock parts. Ron suggests correcting the selector rod geometry. (note: M3 and 328 share components/geometry) In addition to freshening all of the joints (new bushings and shimming with washers) It used to be clearly stated in the following links - the images of the stock and modified selector rod are gone but the graphs and text describe the fix the shifter - in the image with the shifter arm and selector rod you can just make out the location of the bend line on the selector rod - side image w/dimensions no loner present in the site http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/drivetrain/e36_replace_a_shift_lever.html the short shifter http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/drivetrain/e36_shorten_shift_lever.html the discussion http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/drivetrain/e36_vertical_off_axis_force.html the fix http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/drivetrain/e36_rons_short_shifter_install_extra_bend.html The full blown SS kits are definitely the way to go if you need to spend the money. KLB
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Need new race tires, opinions? - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 08:30:37 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Need new race tires, opinions? DocWyte at josh_wyte@yahoo.com wrote: > It actually only pushes in low speed tight corners. I > can throttle steer it through anything else. :-) > > Can't go to 255-40 fronts unless someone wants to swap > me my '95 ltw front 7.5 wheels for a pair of 8.5's... Right. You'd need wider tires. I don't think you're doing yourself any favors with such wide rears, though. > Any comment on the V700, RA1's, A032R's? > I've used all three on the track, so I can't give you autox-specific info. IMHO: The Kumhos are the fastest, noticeably faster than the Toyos and LIGHTYEARS faster than the A032R's. However, the Kumhos are not as consistent as the Toyos and will go off at the end of a session if they get really hot (ie you're sliding the rear around a lot). The Toyos are just rock-solid consistent. They also last FOREVER. I prefer the Kumhos. The A032R's are a great school tire for a mid-level driver, but they are not nearly in the same league as the other two (let alone a Hoosier). They last a long time and the tread makes them howl at the limit, which is good feedback. They are also the only ones really appropriate for long-term street driving (if you can deal with the wear rate). Apparently there's a new A032R out with softer rubber - I haven't tried it yet. - Mark -- mark@pdc-racing.net
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Need new race tires, opinions? - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 08:36:43 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Need new race tires, opinions? Mark Dadgar at mark@pdc-racing.net wrote: > DocWyte at josh_wyte@yahoo.com wrote: >> It actually only pushes in low speed tight corners. I >> can throttle steer it through anything else. :-) >> >> Can't go to 255-40 fronts unless someone wants to swap >> me my '95 ltw front 7.5 wheels for a pair of 8.5's... > > Right. You'd need wider tires. > Clearly, I meant "wheels." Doh. - Mark -- mark@pdc-racing.net
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#10. RE: [E36M3] RE: Short shift kit - corrected links - from Murray Roblin
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Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 08:44:18 -0700 From: "Murray Roblin" <murray@farleyroblin.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: Short shift kit - corrected links I believe the images can be seen through the page http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/drivetrain/e36_short_shifte r_images.html I've got a Stygar ss installed, and have bent the selector rod to correct the alignment. It works fine, however the shift lever now sits even further back (towards the rear of the car). When the car is in 2nd or 4th, there is very little clearance between the shift lever and the console. This is a comfortable position, but it looks kind of funny. Murray > -----Original Message----- > From: Burgess, Kim L [mailto:kim.l.burgess@boeing.com] > Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2003 8:32 AM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [E36M3] RE: Short shift kit - corrected links > > > Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 08:25:57 -0700 > From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> > Subject: RE: Short shift kit - corrected links > > Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> wrote: > <snip> "The MZ3 lever requires more force because > it's not working at the right angle." <snip> > > Interestingly enough I believe that Ron Stygar > had documented the mis-alignment and had a fix - > all using stock parts. Ron suggests correcting > the selector rod geometry. (note: M3 and 328 > share components/geometry) In addition to > freshening all of the joints (new bushings and > shimming with washers) > It used to be clearly stated in the following > links - the images of the stock and modified > selector rod are gone but the graphs and text > describe the fix > the shifter - in the image with the shifter arm > and selector rod you can just make out the > location of the bend line on the selector rod - > side image w/dimensions no loner present in the site > http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/drivetrain/e36_re place_a_shift_lever.html the short shifter http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/drivetrain/e36_shorten_shif t_lever.html the discussion http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/drivetrain/e36_vertical_off _axis_force.html the fix http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/drivetrain/e36_rons_short_s hifter_install_extra_bend.html The full blown SS kits are definitely the way to go if you need to spend the money. KLB