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#1. odd heat up (not quite overheating) issue? - from Rob Verenna
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Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 22:15:52 -0400 From: Rob Verenna <rob@willraceforbeer.com> Subject: odd heat up (not quite overheating) issue? My '95 M3 has been behaving strangely recently. About 10k miles ago (@ ~98k), we replaced most of the cooling system when my thermostat failed (open, luckily). We did the usual thermostat, housing, belts and water pump replacement. The car has been fine since then until this past weekend. I was driving around and after going through a drive-thru to grab lunch on my way home, I was sitting at a light and noticed my temperature gauge was at about 3/4 of the way to the red... normal is half-way and has never deviated. Once I got moving, the temp started to come back down to normal. It did the same thing again in similar circumstances while lunchtime errands a few days ago, so I did an oil change as it was due. Then it was ok for the last few days, including sitting in some stop and go traffic for quite some time yesterday - long enough that it would/should have started heating up, but didn't. Then today on the way home, I was stopped at a light and noticed that the gauge was starting to slowly move up from the normal position. Once again, moving dropped it back down. Any ideas what the heck might be wrong? The radiator wasn't replaced, but appears to be fine. Coolant level is fine. Did I get a bad thermostat? Maybe my fan is having issues? Thanks in advance for any ideas. - rob
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#2. Re: [E36M3] lost radio code - from Jason Bishop
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Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 19:46:07 -0700 (PDT) From: Jason Bishop <jason@doomba.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] lost radio code damn, so close. I'm guessing that holding the <m> button is a 96+ thing? I searched archives and don't find anything for 95 m3. time to remove mr radio I guess... time to check unofficialbmw... thanks everybody. i don't know how you all know this stuff... Jason On Tue, 15 Jul 2003, Robert Chay wrote: > You need the s/n of the radio to get the code. To get the s/n, you can pull > the radio out and get it from the top/bottom label (forgot which). Or you > can turn off the radio, then turn it on while pressing and holding the <m> > button until it turns on, you might have to scroll with the < and > buttons > to get the s/n. > > Take the s/n to any BMW dealer and they should be able to look it up for > you. Unless they're scumbags, they won't charge you for it. > > -Bobby > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jason Bishop" <jason@doomba.com> > > > > > > changed out the battery and for the life of me I can't find the radio code > > to punch back in. I checked the radio manual back flap but I guess the > > previous owner removed the code cards. any place else I might check, and > > if they really are gone, what are my options? $60 at the dealer seems > > kinda dumb. would the dealer the car was purchased at be able to help? > > > > thanks folks > > > > Jason > > >
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#3. MPSC Re: Need new race tires, opinions? - from Jay G
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Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 20:12:49 -1000 From: Jay G <jguzman@hawaii.edu> Subject: MPSC Re: Need new race tires, opinions? hey bill, i have to add in another data point on the pilot sports cup tires...i've had mine for over 1.5 years, (i also got them USED from james at bimmerworld) and they work pretty good for autocross... i run in SCCA BS, and my times are pretty competitive, even when compared to the SM class...also, a couple of buddies who i race against have already gone thru 2 sets of r compund tires while i'm still running on my original set...a lot of the guys who race also comment on how long i've had my tires, and how many heat cycles i put them through...they just cant believe that they've lasted this long... these tires are great, in my experience: lots of stick, and long life...they also work pretty good on the track... but i cant compare them directly to other r-compounds, as these are the only r compound tires i've tried so far...and at this point in their life, they (obviously) dont stick as well as they used to, but the grip is still much more than my mxx3 street tires... just more data to help confuse the original poster :) ----- Original Message ----- From: "BOOM,BILL (HP-Roseville,ex1)" > > I run the MPSCs at the track and agree that they have good grip, wear, and > consistency (much better than Kumho Victos on all counts.) But I find that > it takes a lap or two for them to warm up... for that reason, they probably > aren't well suited for autocross.
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#4. Anyone have experience w/ Goodyear F1 GS-D3's? - from PeterFry@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 02:13:40 EDT From: PeterFry@aol.com Subject: Anyone have experience w/ Goodyear F1 GS-D3's? Group- My 99 M3 has gone through it's second set of Pilot Sports in the rear (not too bad for 57k, I think), and I'm needing to replace them. Don't really have complaints about the Pilot Sports, except that the front tires tend to cup at about 25k and make noise. I noticed that TireRack had a good price on the F1 GS-D3's, and they also seem to be rated well. Thoughts from the group? Comparisons to Pilot Sports? The car is rarely tracked, driven daily, with periodic trips to the curvy roads of Northern Arizona. And while I have the group's attention, a suspension question. My wife's 95 318i is in great shape, but it sure doesn't handle like the M3. We're not looking to make a racer out of it, but what change would offer the most "bang for the buck" in improving handling? Right now it's got lots of body roll, and is generally a bit "mushy." It's got 75k on it, and probably original shocks... Thoughts on the benefit of Bilstein shocks? Or is there a better place to start? I eagerly await your thoughts (and the latest UUC reviews). Peter Fry
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#5. Re: [E36M3] I was hoping this list would a sanctuary from UUC - from Lin Gary
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Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 07:05:30 -0400 From: "Lin Gary" <Lin_Gary@bah.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] I was hoping this list would a sanctuary from UUC Well, I got the UUC pulleys a while back also. The ti has an S50, HFM, and Kline flywheel. Currys dyno session same day before swap, 204 hp. After, 204 hp, +/- 1-2 lb-ft. ?;-) The after curve was pretty rough though, I believe the airbox wasn't correctly seated, the engine wasn't fully warm, blah blah. And of course the flywheel already accounts for most of the rotational mass change. I don't really care, obviously a physical change of reducing parasitic drive losses will do something, whether I feel it or not. ;-) Now, when I do the cams, injectors, and CAI, there better be an increase. :-p Gary Lin '95 ti S50 '85 325i
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#6. update - cracked rear shock tower - from Lin Gary
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Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 07:24:38 -0400 From: "Lin Gary" <Lin_Gary@bah.com> Subject: update - cracked rear shock tower Mitch Piper at Piper Motorsport in Manassas, VA does an Excellent fix for shock towers, he fabricated double thickness plates to replace the 8" top sections, better than BMW's thin replacement body piece. For the ti it comes as the whole inner fender! I used the Z3 flanges, just enough mount thread available, don't think you could double sandwich it. He also put in U-box brackets for the sway bar mount tabs. 5 actual hrs. for $300, I'm happy. I'll say hatchbacks need rear strut tower braces, there was so much creaking going on getting to the shop even without the shock bolted in. Maybe coupes/sedans with the trunk panel might not, but it couldn't hurt. > > Hi everyone, I'm getting back on after an absence. I own Prakash Maggan's 330ti and love it. I've had several minor/moderate issues, currently the right rear shock tower cracked about 2" down each mount stud. I'm having Piper Motorsports fix it tomorrow. How common is this, and any tricks to repairing it? Gary Lin '95 ti S50 '85 325i
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#7. OT: Turbo M5... - from Thompson, Jeff
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Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 08:34:23 -0400 From: "Thompson, Jeff" <jthompson@telco.com> Subject: OT: Turbo M5... I don't know if I missed an announcement, but doing my weekly scan for M5s I found: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2424308208&cat egory=6008 I'm not in a position to buy it, but maybe somebody else here can give it a good home. -jeff
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#8. RE: [E36M3] OT: Turbo M5... - from Carey Probst
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Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 09:12:01 -0400 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: RE: [E36M3] OT: Turbo M5... Suzy, Isn't this your baby? Selling already? Rejoining the E36M3 club with a real M3 again? Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, '86 325e w/i cam BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters JC CAIed and Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed. -----Original Message----- From: Thompson, Jeff [mailto:jthompson@telco.com] Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 8:43 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] OT: Turbo M5... Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 08:34:23 -0400 From: "Thompson, Jeff" <jthompson@telco.com> Subject: OT: Turbo M5... I don't know if I missed an announcement, but doing my weekly scan for M5s I found: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2424308208&cat egory=6008 I'm not in a position to buy it, but maybe somebody else here can give it a good home. -jeff
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#9. Is it brake caliper rebuild time? - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 09:07:01 -0500 From: "Jamie Howton" <jhowton@fotofab.com> Subject: Is it brake caliper rebuild time? My 95 M3 (80K) pulls slightly to the right under _hard_ braking. I have recently replaced most of the suspension components as follows: H&R track springs Koni SA Ground control solid shock mounts Ground control spherical bushing RTABs Front control arms Ground control spherical control arm bushings After all of that, I had it aligned to stock specs at a local dealership. I am running Hawk HP+ with new Euro floating rotors in the front and new stock rears, SS brake lines and ATE Super blue. Sometimes it seems like the front right brake is dragging, I think that because if I am next to a truck or concrete barrier I can sometimes hear a quiet rhythmic squeak that keeps time with road speed and my right front wheel seems to have more brake dust than the others. My suspicion is that it's time for a caliper rebuild, just coming to you guys for a sanity check before I dive in. Thanks Jamie Howton 2002 330i 5 Spd Steel Blue Metallic SP 1995 M3 5 Spd Arctic Silver 1979 Porsche 928 5 Speed Opalmetallic
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#10. RTAB Question - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 11:14:52 -0400 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: RTAB Question While prepping my car for the last DE (end of May), I noticed that, when either rear wheel was lifted on the jack (at the jackpad), when I tighten the lug bolts on the rear wheel, I can hear a slight 'clunk' when torque is applied to the lug bolt. The 'clunk' sounds like it's coming from the RTAB area. The car currently has 43k miles on it, original RTABs (10/94 build), and has seen close to 30 track days since 1998 (was someone's garage queen prior to that). I know the first response is "Replace the RTABs", but I don't experience the rear end "weirdness" on the track that is a common symptom of worn RTABs. I planned to replace the RTABs this summer, but after the last DE, I'm wondering if they're really bad. Thanks! Ron Buchalski BMWCCA #76387 1995 E36 M3 1993 E34 525iT 1999 Mazda Miata _________________________________________________________________ Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail