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#1. FS: 18" Forgeline RS/Comps - Fresh Rebuild - from Rob Birkhead
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Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 22:38:40 -0700 From: "Rob Birkhead" <rbirkz@earthlink.net> Subject: FS: 18" Forgeline RS/Comps - Fresh Rebuild Time has come to sell my beloved Forgelines. The set is 2 18x8" and 2 18x9.5" Comps (similar to RS). Wheels were just inspected and rebuilt. Fantastic condition. Wheels are very strong and very light. To top it off these wheels came off of Jeff McMillin's Speed GT Championship-winning E36 M3. Wheels with a history. Asking $1800. Pics available upon request. Email me at rob@mpactmotorsports.com for more info. Rob Birkhead
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#2. RE: Garage Floor sealant/paint/stain question - from M540
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Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 07:58:16 -0400 From: "M540" <m540@bellsouth.net> Subject: RE: Garage Floor sealant/paint/stain question Just a follow up on the garage floor epoxy thing: I don't know if I mentioned it in that write-up or not, but a local paint guy (who didn't sell epoxy) gave me a great idea. He suggested stopping by a local Jiffy-Lube and asking what they used on their floor if it looked good. I ended up lucking across the same product they used (a local brand, Richardson's perhaps?) and have had great luck with it. No hot-tire pickup at all. Flaws to date (2.5 years later) include one quarter-sized bubble, cause unknown, and one small scrape down to concrete caused by my steel-wheeled 100-lb floor jack and a careless moment. I do remember reading that newly-poured floors have to cure thoroughly or peeling may result. On older floors, surface prep is king. Good luck all, the project is miserable but the result is worth it. Kevin
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#3. Needed: indie in Atlanta south, Stockbridge area - from Carey Probst
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Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 08:18:36 -0400 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: Needed: indie in Atlanta south, Stockbridge area Can anyone recommend a good independent in the Stockbridge/Morrow area south of Atlanta. Getting time for a clutch. TIA Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, '86 325e w/i cam BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters JC CAIed and Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced
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#4. Re: Stupid Side Mouldings - from Chris Conner
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Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 09:10:28 -0400 From: "Chris Conner" <chris@digital7.com> Subject: Re: Stupid Side Mouldings Ever think about purchasing a shotgun? Or at the very least, a simple video camera pointed at your car so you can get a basic idea of who's doing this. You're beginning to talk about a lot of money, and it is most likely the same person doing this. By now they are getting pretty brazen, and they are bound to slip up. Chris -------------------- 1 -------------------- Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 16:01:11 -0700 From: "Kit Wetzler" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: stupid side moldings Does anyone have a set of side moldings for sale for an M3/4? some dorkwad stole mine last night. Again. That brings the total of stolen parts off my car to: 1 front bumper 2.5 sets of side moldings 1 driver's side mirror 1 passenger side mirror 1 set M3 badges 2 kidney grills -kit, who is thinking about supergluing his entire car together.
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#5. Garage Floor Paint/Epoxy Woes - from Brad Ahrens
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Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 07:00:28 -0700 (PDT) From: Brad Ahrens <txsaggie97@yahoo.com> Subject: Garage Floor Paint/Epoxy Woes Before you put any surface down on your garage you should really get a moisture test kit. Try to get a decent one and not the super cheap cheesy one. Go into a vinyl flooring or VCT tile flooring supplier. They will know what you are talking about. Basically the you seal this kit to your floor - inside of it is a predetermined weight of power (forget which compound) this power then absorbs water vapor that is coming up from your slab and when you send the kit in they weigh the powder, compare it to the duration the kit was down and determine the moisture vapor permeance. You will need to compare this to what is allowed for the product you are using. They really do recommend 6mos before putting down products to let the concrete cure although in construction that is generally not possible and we go sooner and have been fine. A couple things about residential construction make this problem worse. Residential concrete usually uses way more water in the concrete (much of it added at site) than commercial (although they shouldn't...something to watch as they build your home..don't let them add gallons of water to your concrete...ask them if they know what "slump" is). Also if you have no or a poor vapor barrier under your concrete you are going to run into problems. Bottom line - test your floor before you go through all the work! Make sure it falls within specifications for that product. If not find another product or you may have to go the sealer route like one member mentioned. Good luck. __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
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#6. Garage Floor tile? - from David Bauer
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Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 09:42:40 -0500 From: David Bauer <dbauer@blkbox.com> Subject: Garage Floor tile? While we are on the subject of garage floors does anyone have experience with tile? My floor has been around the block and probably wouldn't hold paint well. I saw Griots has some quartz tile for $15/sq ft but I was wondering if there were any less expensive options with similar performance. Dave 95 M3 Garage floor with too many oil change mishaps
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#7. Gunked ABS sensors? Reposting - from Steve Klein
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Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 09:48:21 -0700 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Gunked ABS sensors? Reposting (Some mail and network issues here, so I'm reposting this. Sorry if it's a double:) Hello, All- I've had a condition for a while on my '95 where under even moderately aggressive braking the ABS kicks on while on hot pavement with warm tires. I can hear a few tire chirps and the ABS, and the car feels like I'm braking on ice or snow. I just got the car back from the shop where I had the lines replaced with Stop Tech braided stainless and the system flushed and filled with ATE Super Blue. The pedal feel is nice and firm again, but the ABS problem persists. The car has 123k miles, and I should add that there is absolutely no pull to one side or the other under braking and no abnormal vibes or otherwise in the steering wheel or suspension, for that matter. So, I'm wondering if the sensors are just gunked up and removing the sensors at each wheel and cleaning them and the contacts could be a favorable solution. Has anyone run across this before? Thanks for your help, Steve Post Scriptum: I should add that I'm on the Goodyear Eagle F-1's, a tire that I find to be fantastic at sticking in the wet, but less grippy than the Pilot Sports I had on before them in the dry. My only crucible is the street, so it could be that they take a lot of working to get the heat and stick into them. I've suspected this in relation to the ABS problem, but when it doesn't kick on while braking, they stick just fine.
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Gunked ABS sensors? Reposting - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 11:53:38 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Gunked ABS sensors? Reposting Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> wrote: > > I've had a condition for a while on my '95 where under even moderately > aggressive braking the ABS kicks on while on hot pavement with warm > tires. Steve, If your ABS system was fundamentally compromised, the problem would be there regardless of the ambient conditions. There are a lot of factors impacting ABS engagement threshold: tires, brakes pads and brake fluid are under you control. ABS sensors, brain and the pump are a little trickier to upgrade. Cheap ass tires or pads will lock the wheels a lot sooner than one would expect. Have you replaced either recently? > I can hear a few tire chirps and the ABS, and the car feels like I'm > braking on ice or snow. You do loose some deceleration the moment ABS kicks in. The only way to regain it on my 3-channel '95 E36 is to stand on the brake pedal. On my wife's 4-channel '98 E36, ABS engagement is a lot less disruptive. Go figure. > So, I'm wondering if the sensors are just gunked up and removing the > sensors at each wheel and cleaning them and the contacts could be a > favorable solution. Can't hurt - do it! > Has anyone run across this before? Kinda. My ABS clearly engages sooner on street vs. track tires. The one time I tried Axxis Deluxe pads on my ex-daily driver E30, they turned that car's ABS brake system into an almost binary mode. HTH, alex f
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Gunked ABS sensors? Reposting - from Chris Papademetrious
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Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 13:04:47 -0400 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispy@ieee.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Gunked ABS sensors? Reposting At 11:57 AM 7/24/2003 -0500, alex.fadeev@verizon.com wrote: > > I can hear a few tire chirps and the ABS, and the car feels like I'm > > braking on ice or snow. > >You do loose some deceleration the moment ABS kicks in. The only way to >regain it on my 3-channel '95 E36 is to stand on the brake pedal. On my >wife's 4-channel '98 E36, ABS engagement is a lot less disruptive. Go >figure. This is how I had the only accident in my life that was my fault. The person in front of me panic-stopped. Just as I slammed the brakes, my front wheel hit a pothole and the ABS kicked in. It felt like the front of the car hit a patch of ice, and I couldn't dump all my speed before I hit the car in front of me. Braking from 45mph, I managed to hit at only 5-10mph or so, enough to mess up the front airdam and hood, with no structural damage. If it weren't for the pothole, I have absolutely no doubt that the car's fabulous brakes would have saved me completely. - Chris
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Gunked ABS sensors? Reposting - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 12:33:12 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Gunked ABS sensors? Reposting Chris Papademetrious <chrispy@ieee.org> wrote: > > At 11:57 AM 7/24/2003 -0500, alex.fadeev@verizon.com wrote: > > > I can hear a few tire chirps and the ABS, and the car feels like I'm > > > braking on ice or snow. > > > >You do loose some deceleration the moment ABS kicks in. The only way to > >regain it on my 3-channel '95 E36 is to stand on the brake pedal. On my > >wife's 4-channel '98 E36, ABS engagement is a lot less disruptive. Go > >figure. > > This is how I had the only accident in my life that was my fault. The > person in front of me panic-stopped. Just as I slammed the brakes, my > front wheel hit a pothole and the ABS kicked in. It felt like the front > of the car hit a patch of ice, and I couldn't dump all my speed before I > hit the car in front of me. Excellent point the brings up a question that has been on the back of my mind for a while. Why does the ABS engage every time you hit a bump or a pot hole? The wheel that hits a bump may travel a marginally longer distance than the other three wheels, but unless it gets air time, it should not lock up. Does the ABS assume that the other three wheels had locked up? That would seam very unlikely and should be an easy condition to code ABS brain to ignore. The early ABS engagement after encountering a bump is a major PITA on some tracks where you have to pick the brake areas with fewest bumps at the expense of the corner entry position. alex f