-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. Re: [E36M3] Q's about wiring resistors and load... - from Chris Papademetrious
Top
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 16:50:26 -0400 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispy@ieee.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Q's about wiring resistors and load... At 01:40 PM 7/27/2003 -0700, DocWyte wrote: >Chris, > >Thanks for the help! If I understand what you're >saying, rather than wiring them up serially (1-2-3), >what I want to do is bundle them all up like so: Exactly. Three 10 ohm resistors in series (one after the other) would be 30 ohms. Good luck! - Chris
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. Josh Wyte E36M3 steering wheel removal: can you write up please? - from Msebmwman@aol.com
Top
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 17:11:36 EDT From: Msebmwman@aol.com Subject: Josh Wyte E36M3 steering wheel removal: can you write up please? Josh; Any chance you could provide a brief write-up of this as well as a few photos? I've wondered exactly what it would take to take off the airbag wheel and put a non-airbag wheel in. Especially to add something electronic to keep the airbag/SRS light off. And, it seems you are on the right track!! Thanks, Marc 95
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. E36 Water Pump Failures- PICS - from Mark Dadgar
Top
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 15:11:16 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: E36 Water Pump Failures- PICS So E36 plastic impeller water pump failures are legendary but I've never actually seen pics of how the failure manifests itself. Thanks to Ramon LeFrancoix at Bavarian Motorsport in Milpitas, CA, I now have a pic and a small QuickTime movie of a dead pump, which I've put up on the Web. You can see it at: http://www.pdc-racing.net/gallery/e36waterpump/index.html If you've still got one of these pumps in your car, well, good luck with that. :) - Mark -- mark@pdc-racing.net
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. Airbag Light & Question - from Patrick Dargan
Top
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 22:31:48 -0400 From: "Patrick Dargan" <darg01@earthlink.net> Subject: Airbag Light & Question "...Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 09:09:08 -0700 (PDT) From: Joe Tan <mailjtan@yahoo.com> Subject: Re:Airbag Light Info & Question The $50 is most likely for the CPO deductible. Chances are, your factory warranty expired and your CPO warranty kicked in. Now you will have a $50 deductible for any warranty work done at the dealer..." Not a CPO. Purchased new Dec '98.
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. Re: [E36M3] Changing tires changes alignment. Help requested. - from Zachary Eyler-Walker
Top
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 03:57:42 -0400 (EDT) From: Zachary Eyler-Walker <zwalker@cs.utk.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Changing tires changes alignment. Help requested. On Sun, 27 Jul 2003, Jeremy Lucas wrote: > No, you didn't bend something by jacking up the car. > > Did you unbolt anything other than the wheels and the rear brake calipers? No, that was it. I can't see how anything I did could have caused damage -- I was just grasping at straws with the question about jacking the car that way. I've done it tons of times before with no obvious ill effects. Here's hoping it's the tires. I should get the chance to change them tomorrow afternoon. Thanks, Zach
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. Re: [E36M3] Gunked ABS sensors? Reposting - from Neil Maller
Top
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 10:20:54 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Gunked ABS sensors? Reposting on 7/24/03 2:37 PM, alex.fadeev@verizon.com wrote: > AFAIK, once triggered, ABS engages all channels (four wheels) regardless > of which one was detected locked up. The 95 M3 (without ASC+T) has separate channels for each front brake, and combined for the rears. 96+ cars with ASC+T have 4 channels. In each case the ABS controls each channel independently. This provides one of the main benefits of ABS: the ability to handle split-mu conditions, where one or more wheels are on a surface with a substantially different coefficient of friction. A skilled driver can equal, and maybe exceed, the braking performance of ABS on a regular surface. However there's obviously no mechanism for the driver to modulate the brakes on just one side when those tires are on a slippery surface such as water, gravel, etc. ABS can and does do that. Neil 96 M3
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. Re: Argh!!! Hood release broke! - from Neil Maller
Top
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 10:36:34 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Argh!!! Hood release broke! on 7/25/03 8:57 AM, DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> wrote: > I've been afraid of this ever since I bought the car > last September. It's always been very hard to open > the hood. Lots of force is required to pull the > lever. I greased the hood pins to no avail and a few > months ago the dealer played with it. > > Tonite I was out there installing my RD upper strut > brace and the damn lever kinda went "pop" and now I > can't open the hood. #$^$&#@!!!!! > > Any hints on how to open the hood without breaking the > grill? Josh, BTDT last winter. The likelihood is that the cable mechanism broke at the release handle end. To get your hood open, remove the footwell side panel and pull on the cable end with pliers. (Bentley covers this panel under speaker removal, but it's straightforward enough.) It will be *much* easier to pull if you have an assistant push down on the leading edge of the hood to reduce friction at the latch end. When you this you'll probably see what broke. In my case it was part of the plastic handle where the cable attaches, which is sold only as a unit with the cable. I seem to recall it cost about $35, but don't hold me to that. I didn't want to fish the new cable, so removed the new handle assembly and just installed that. The root cause of my high effort hood release was misalignment of the latch pins, which are mounted to the hood itself. Bentley covers a procedure for aligning them, which basically involves slightly loosening their Torx fasteners, carefully lowering the hood just far enough NOT to latch, but enough to centre the pins, then lifting and refastening. If you allow the pins to latch while doing this you're going to be in a whole world of hurt... In case you still can't get it open, it's supposedly possible to punch in the grille without breaking it, then operate the cable from that end. I doubt you'll need to do that. Neil 96 M3
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. Bimmerworld Dual Fuel Pump Kit - from Neil Maller
Top
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 13:43:09 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Bimmerworld Dual Fuel Pump Kit I'd previously posted about buying and installing this kit, and specifically about needing to may the "Kalman Modification" to the driver side level sender. (This involves rotating the sender assembly by 90 degrees in the fuel pump in order for the float arm to move freely in the left side tank half - see Andrew's write-up at http://www.pumpkininc.com/content/doc/guide/ag-8.pdf for details.) I've since run through several tanks of fuel, including during a track weekend, and here's what I've found out. - Like just about every other car I've driven, the first half of the tank, as indicated by the gauge, is the bigger half. This feature is now somewhat exaggerated, to the point that the first half of the tank is perhaps more like two thirds, with the second half disappearing much more quickly. - The reserve light now comes on with around 2 gallons of gas left. I believe it was somewhat more generous before. Not a problem, just something to know. - I have a very slight smell of gas in the car, probably because I failed to use new fuel pump assembly rubber sealing rings on installation. (It would have been good thing to include these with the kit.) - The primary function of the kit, to prevent fuel pickup problems under track use is completely successful. I ran my car down to under 3 gallons remaining with absolutely no issues. Usually pickup problems would start at barely under a half tank. Neil 96 M3
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. UUC TME/Tranny mount noises and a cure! - from JUSTIN GERRY
Top
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 14:49:51 -0400 From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> Subject: UUC TME/Tranny mount noises and a cure! I installed a set of UUC TMEs along with the UUC red transmission mount bushings on my '97 M3. No matter what I did to the mounts, I still had a loud "grinding" sound eminating from around the transmission tunnel area. It became worse when I would really load/unload the drivetrain. My girlfriend, who was following me home one night noticed that my exhaust was really moving around. I inspected both my rear muffler hangers and I found they were torn, allowing the exhaust to move around. This past weekend I replaced the muffler hangers and also secured one of my heat shields that had come loose. The result was that I have cured my car of 95% of the extra grinding/vibration that I thought was caused by the tranny mounts. The tranny mounts just amplified the noise that was already there, they were not the cause. I don't recall anyone ever mentioning anything about the muffler hangers as a potential source of excess noise. The hangers are tucked up under the rear of the car and rarely get inspected. These mounts seem to be critical to keeping the exhaust quiet and vibration free as they handle most of the weight of the exhaust system. As an FYI, I am in the habit of occasionally looking at the mounts because my 2002 used to occasionally lose the muffler hangers. Make sure you check your exhaust hangers regularly! Just curious if you have had anyone else who has replaced with rear muffler hangers with the same result. -Justin -- '76 02 '97 m3 bmw cca checkout http://www.bmw2002.net
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. body shops - from Kit Wetzler
Top
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 13:22:18 -0700 From: "Kit Wetzler" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: body shops Really sorry to hit all of the non SF bay area people with this but the M3 needs some paintwork. Pretty much the whole car is going to get done, it was keyed and scratched all around when the bastards took the moldings. I'm looking for experiences, I'm pretty picky when it comes to paint quality and the last shop I used let me down quite badly. (clearcoat has some nastiness underneath it, etc) The car is going to be stripped because of it, which is not ideal to me, because the factory primer is baked on at a higher temperature than you can accomplish with the car assembled but there isn't much I can do about it. I'm leaning towards B-Line Body Inc, and Stanford European's body shop. Anyone have experiences with either shop? -kit
-------------------- 11 --------------------
#11. Interchangeable parts: good parts car ??? - from Newman, Christopher
Top
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 16:24:29 -0400 From: "Newman, Christopher" <CNewman@LSAC.org> Subject: Interchangeable parts: good parts car ??? Good afternoon, How interchangeable are the parts between a 1996 M3 coupe and a 1992 325is coupe ? For example, could the radiator, thermostat, and water pump from a 325is be used on a M3 ? Could the stock 325is wheels be used as a set of winter wheels on a M3, or would brake clearance be an issue ? How about the shocks and springs, transmission, heating and a/c unit, or radio and speakers ? Can any of these be taken from a 325is and be used on a M3 ? I suspect a lot of these parts are interchangeable, but certain others are M-specific. Thanks for any information you can provide.