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#1. Re: [E36M3] Re: Schrick camshaft results - from DocWyte
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Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 08:19:00 -0700 (PDT) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Schrick camshaft results Yes, the dynos are showing hp to the wheels, the text talks about hp to the crank. -josh --- Steve Stoner <sstoner@treev.com> wrote: > Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 10:53:53 -0400 > From: Steve Stoner <sstoner@treev.com> > Subject: Re: Schrick camshaft results > > With all this camshaft talk, I took a quick trip to > Eurosport and Turner web > pages to review the Shrick and intake setups. The > descriptive text talks > about 300hp (ES) or 295hp (turner) with this mod, > but when looking at the > dyno charts I don't see anything near these > numbers. A little over 250 is > about all she wrote. What am I missing? Is this one > of those at the crank > verses at the wheel issues? > > Steve Stoner > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > > This e-mail and any attachments may contain > confidential and > privileged information. If you are not the intended > recipient, > please notify the sender immediately by return > e-mail, delete this > e-mail and destroy any copies. Any dissemination or > use of this > information by a person other than the intended > recipient is > unauthorized and may be illegal. ===== __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
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#2. Oil special at Rockey Mountain - from Carey Probst
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Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 13:21:02 -0400 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: Oil special at Rockey Mountain In case none of you saw it, Rockey Mountain Motorworks, www.motorworks.com, is having a clearance on BMW parts with good prices. I just received my order including an E30 receiver hitch for $97 and 5 liter bottles of Lubro Moly Vol Synthese 0W40 for $9.99 a bottle compared to $32.99 regular price at Bavarian Auto. Been using it for years with goods results but had to buy a half dozen bottles at that price. Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, '86 325e w/i cam BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters JC CAIed and Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed.
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#3. Re: Schrick camshaft results - from Joe Tan
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Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 10:42:32 -0700 (PDT) From: Joe Tan <mailjtan@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Schrick camshaft results You got it. 250 Rear Wheel HP is roughly 300 crank HP. Most stock M3 motor dynoes about 210RWHP. ---------- With all this camshaft talk, I took a quick trip to Eurosport and Turner web pages to review the Shrick and intake setups. The descriptive text talks about 300hp (ES) or 295hp (turner) with this mod, but when looking at the dyno charts I don't see anything near these numbers. A little over 250 is about all she wrote. What am I missing? Is this one of those at the crank verses at the wheel issues? Steve Stoner __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
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#4. WTB: 95 M3 exhaust camshaft - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 12:45:16 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: WTB: 95 M3 exhaust camshaft Well, talking of camshafts, I just got a call from my dealer's mechanic. The 95 M3 in their shop that overheated and warped the head (see my post of a week or two ago) turns out to have scored exhaust cams. Unfortunately new ones are on backorder. Any of you cam kit guys out there have an exhaust camshaft they want to sell? (Note: can't be 96+, they're not the same.) Neil 96 M3
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Re: Schrick camshaft installation help - from Steven Tom
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Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 10:54:24 -0700 From: Steven Tom <stom@qualcomm.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Schrick camshaft installation help Hi Chester, The TIS is wrong on the section under cam shaft install. The TIS is correct under VANOS adjustment. In any case you are suppose to clock the cam gears CW, installing in a CCW motion. Is this how you understand it? steve At 09:35 AM 7/29/2003 -0500, Chester Wong wrote: >Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 07:29:42 -0700 (PDT) >From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Schrick camshaft installation help > >I don't know how risky it really is having done this a few times myself. So >long as you are patient and take things slowly, you should be fine. >Reinstalling the VANOS is a bit tricky as even the BMW TIS is wrong. I know >that my VANOS was installed incorrectly by me because I followed the TIS. I >spoke to a racer/engine builder at VIR who gave me some helpful tips about >reinstalling it....so one of these days, I'll redo it. > >Anyway, if you're in the tri-state area, I can help any of you out with VANOS >R&R or cam installs. > >Chester
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Re: Schrick camshaft installation help - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 10:56:08 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Schrick camshaft installation help Yes, but if you clock the cam gears fully CW and then suck back the VANOS, what will happen is the VANOS plunger will bottom out when it's activated...you can see this when you apply air pressure to the mechanism. I will test out the racer's theory one of these days. Chester --- Steven Tom <stom@qualcomm.com> wrote: > Hi Chester, > > The TIS is wrong on the section under cam shaft install. The TIS is > correct under VANOS adjustment. In any case you are suppose to clock the > cam gears CW, installing in a CCW motion. Is this how you understand it? =====
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Removing Differential Drain and Fill plugs - from Tucker Ryals
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Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 12:12:49 -0700 (PDT) From: Tucker Ryals <tuckerryals@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Removing Differential Drain and Fill plugs Speaking of removing the differential drain and fill plugs, where do I find a hex socket big enough to fit the plugs? I've searched several auto part stores to no avail. Can someone steer me in the direction of a vendor that sells them?? Tucker Ryals 1995 M3 -------------------- 7 -------------------- Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 21:57:17 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Removing Differential Drain and Fill plugs Jim Bassett at jim@jimbassett.com wrote: >> Perhaps I have gotten weaker in the last two years, because I can get >> these screws to come loose. Last time I changed the diff. fluid, I had no >> problems. I even put anti-sieze on them. >> >> Any problem with encouraging the wrench handle with my small floor jack? I >> thought of this after I gave up this evening. > > A couple of sharp taps with a deadblow hammer should get them loose. Or a length of pipe on the wrench handle. Leverage, dontcha know. > Jim Bassett - has a 48oz. hammer, and knows how to use it :-) > Note to self: exercise caution when working with Jim on race car - Mark -- mark@pdc-racing.net __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Removing Differential Drain and Fill plugs - from Robert Chay
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Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 15:20:45 -0400 From: "Robert Chay" <rclists@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Removing Differential Drain and Fill plugs www.ultimategarage.com has 14mm and 17mm Facom short socket allen wrenches. That's where I got mine (14mm). -Bobby ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tucker Ryals" <tuckerryals@yahoo.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2003 3:15 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Removing Differential Drain and Fill plugs > Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 12:12:49 -0700 (PDT) > From: Tucker Ryals <tuckerryals@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Removing Differential Drain and Fill plugs > > Speaking of removing the differential drain and fill > plugs, where do I find a hex socket big enough to fit > the plugs? I've searched several auto part stores to > no avail. Can someone steer me in the direction of a > vendor that sells them?? > > Tucker Ryals > 1995 M3 > > -------------------- 7 -------------------- > Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 21:57:17 -0700 > From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Removing Differential Drain and > Fill plugs > > Jim Bassett at jim@jimbassett.com wrote: > >> Perhaps I have gotten weaker in the last two years, > because I can > get > >> these screws to come loose. Last time I changed the > diff. fluid, I > had no > >> problems. I even put anti-sieze on them. > >> > >> Any problem with encouraging the wrench handle with > my small floor > jack? I > >> thought of this after I gave up this evening. > > > > A couple of sharp taps with a deadblow hammer should > get them loose. > > Or a length of pipe on the wrench handle. Leverage, > dontcha know. > > > Jim Bassett - has a 48oz. hammer, and knows how to > use it :-) > > > > Note to self: exercise caution when working with Jim > on race car > > - Mark > -- > mark@pdc-racing.net > > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software > http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > > This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential and > privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient, > please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail, delete this > e-mail and destroy any copies. Any dissemination or use of this > information by a person other than the intended recipient is > unauthorized and may be illegal.
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Removing Differential Drain and Fill plugs - from Murray Roblin
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Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 12:24:40 -0700 From: "Murray Roblin" <murray@farleyroblin.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Removing Differential Drain and Fill plugs Other than the Snap-On and Steve'D ultimate garage Facom sockets, I couldn't find one that was sufficiently short. I bought a 14mm hex key from NAPA (had to order it, but came in a day), cut it down and use it. I use a crowsfoot and a torque wrench to retorque. -----Original Message----- From: Tucker Ryals [mailto:tuckerryals@yahoo.com] Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2003 12:16 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Removing Differential Drain and Fill plugs Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 12:12:49 -0700 (PDT) From: Tucker Ryals <tuckerryals@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Removing Differential Drain and Fill plugs Speaking of removing the differential drain and fill plugs, where do I find a hex socket big enough to fit the plugs? I've searched several auto part stores to no avail. Can someone steer me in the direction of a vendor that sells them?? Tucker Ryals 1995 M3 -------------------- 7 -------------------- Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 21:57:17 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Removing Differential Drain and Fill plugs Jim Bassett at jim@jimbassett.com wrote: >> Perhaps I have gotten weaker in the last two years, because I can get >> these screws to come loose. Last time I changed the diff. fluid, I had no >> problems. I even put anti-sieze on them. >> >> Any problem with encouraging the wrench handle with my small floor jack? I >> thought of this after I gave up this evening. > > A couple of sharp taps with a deadblow hammer should get them loose. Or a length of pipe on the wrench handle. Leverage, dontcha know. > Jim Bassett - has a 48oz. hammer, and knows how to use it :-) > Note to self: exercise caution when working with Jim on race car - Mark -- mark@pdc-racing.net __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential and privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail, delete this e-mail and destroy any copies. Any dissemination or use of this information by a person other than the intended recipient is unauthorized and may be illegal.
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#10. Temperature Gauge and Exhaust questions - from Newman, Christopher
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Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 15:30:56 -0400 From: "Newman, Christopher" <CNewman@LSAC.org> Subject: Temperature Gauge and Exhaust questions Good afternoon, What explains a Temperature Gauge Needle (1996 M3, 67K) that reads cooler AFTER the car has already gotten up to temperature ? For example, you casually drive long enough for the needle to point slightly to the right of straight up (12:00). Then, a few minutes later it's reading cooler (11:00). And if you stop and idle, it returns slightly to the right of 12:00, but never higher. Would it be normal for the Gauge to decrease that much if you went from a sunny area to a shady area, or if your average speed and airflow increased (slow country roads/traffic vs. highway speeds ) ? Once it's hot enough to read 12:00, wouldn't it just stay there (or higher if you're actually overheating) ? After driving about 30 minutes in 80-90 degree weather and shutting the car off, is it normal for small puddles of water to form underneath the exhaust system (drips seem to come from the catalytic converter and/or resonator area, but not from the muffler or tips) ? I would think condensation would be burned off by then. Thanks for any insight you can provide. I really appreciate the knowledge gained from this list.
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#11. Re: ABS II: Another Braking Saga and Goodyear Eagle F1's - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 15:23:01 -0400 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: ABS II: Another Braking Saga and Goodyear Eagle F1's I know of a few people who pull out the ABS relay for DE events, to prevent ABS from engaging. They said that it doesn't trigger any faults that aren't reset once the relay is re-installed. I haven't tried it myself... Ron Buchalski BMWCCA #76387 1995 E36 M3 1993 E34 525iT 1999 Mazda Miata >Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 16:08:26 -0700 >From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> >Subject: ABS II: Another Braking Saga and Goodyear Eagle F1's > <snip> > First, is there a way to disable the ABS (without throwing lights and >codes) so I can see what the tires are doing as a baseline to my >diagnostics? > <snip> _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail