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#1. Re: [E36M3] Disconnecting Factory Radio - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 15:00:56 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Disconnecting Factory Radio Keep pulling up on the outer connector (I think it's up...but whichever way it moves). It will release. Chester --- Mike Frank <mfrank28@comcast.net> wrote: > pulled up the "latch" as pictured on the top about 1/4-3/8", but it's > not obvious what to do next. Pulling and prying in various directions > hasn't accomplished anything. =====
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#2. RE: [E36M3] Disconnecting Factory Radio - from Murray Roblin
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Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 15:12:24 -0700 From: "Murray Roblin" <murray@farleyroblin.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Disconnecting Factory Radio IIRC, the connector has a sliding component which through the use of a ramp, levers the connector off from its mate. The sliding component is pulled perpendicular to the main connector angle (direction of pins) and when pulled, applies a perpendicular force (again, in the direction of the pins) to engage/disengage the connector. I think that if you look at the side of the connector, you can see the ramp and the pins which exert the force on the connector shell (though this may be hidden by the sliding component body). Bottom line, keep pulling on the "top", it will force the connect free. I think there is about an 1" of motion required. view from rear. | direction of travel of sliding component | | ____________ | | | | sliding component |___________| | | || | | || | | || | | || | | | | connector shell |________| Hope this helps. Murray -----Original Message----- From: Mike Frank [mailto:mfrank28@comcast.net] Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 2:55 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Disconnecting Factory Radio Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 16:49:45 -0500 From: "Mike Frank" <mfrank28@comcast.net> Subject: Disconnecting Factory Radio Could some please describe how to get the large connector off the back of the factory radio. I've got it out of the dash and have pulled off the two small connectors, but the big once is being stubborn. I've pulled up the "latch" as pictured on the top about 1/4-3/8", but it's not obvious what to do next. Pulling and prying in various directions hasn't accomplished anything. Instead of forcing it and making a potentially expensive mistake, I figured I'd ask the list since I know half of you probably already put in aftermarket decks. Once I get this thing out it might not make it back in either. Thanks, Mike Frank 97 M3 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential and privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail, delete this e-mail and destroy any copies. Any dissemination or use of this information by a person other than the intended recipient is unauthorized and may be illegal.
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#3. Re: Disconnecting Factory Radio - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2003 17:19:00 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Disconnecting Factory Radio on 8/5/03 5:05 PM, "Mike Frank" <mfrank28@comcast.net> wrote: > Could some please describe how to get the large connector off the back > of the factory radio. I've got it out of the dash and have pulled off > the two small connectors, but the big once is being stubborn. I've > pulled up the "latch" as pictured on the top about 1/4-3/8", but it's > not obvious what to do next. Pulling and prying in various directions > hasn't accomplished anything. Instead of forcing it and making a > potentially expensive mistake, I figured I'd ask the list since I know > half of you probably already put in aftermarket decks. Once I get this > thing out it might not make it back in either. Mike, There are lots of pins in that connector, leading to plenty of friction. Removing it is a progressive process: (1) Move the latch as far as you can (2) Then carefully pry around the edges of the connector with a screwdriver to start it going, and repeat these steps. My radio had a decal on the back someplace showing what to do, although it still wasn't that easy or obvious. Neil 96 M3
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#4. Alarm system - from Go, Jeffrey
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Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 00:59:30 +0200 From: "Go, Jeffrey" <jeffrey.go@sap.com> Subject: Alarm system Hi All, I would like to thank everyone that assisted me during my time of crisis..its never easy when some f$$%$$ punk Steals something from you....but this list made the first few hours a lot easier.. I never thought a list could be so consoling and helpful, but this one tops them all. Thanks for everyon'es compassion... Anyways, I am ready to fight back... 1st is: to install a motion and perimeter sensor alarm from Clifford with sensors mounted on ALL point...( bumpers, trunk..etc).... Anyone have any thoughts? I will be possibly be having it done from redwood city Thanks jeff
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#5. Hawk track alternative - from James Clay
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Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 18:59:45 -0400 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Hawk track alternative My suggestion for a Hawk track pad is the HT-10. None of the nasty corrosive dust that the Blues and many other brands have, plus a bunch of brake characteristic advantages. There is HT-14 if you need the initial bite of the Blue - the only thing lacking in the HT-10. James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance 540.639.9648
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#6. On-board display losing pixels? - from Joe Huie
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Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 16:03:31 -0700 From: "Joe Huie" <jhuie@inreach.com> Subject: On-board display losing pixels? I have a '95 M3 with the standard information display (no onboard computer) in the console and under the radio/climate controls. I'm starting to lose individual columns of pixels off and on, such that the messages displayed look weird and silly. This seems to be an intermittent problem, but it happens more frequently than not. Is there anything I can do to fix this (pull out and clean contacts?) or do I have to look for a new one? Thanks. Joe
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Alarm system - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 16:14:17 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Alarm system > 1st is: to install a motion and perimeter sensor alarm from Clifford > with sensors mounted on ALL point...( bumpers, trunk..etc).... > > Anyone have any thoughts? > > I will be possibly be having it done from redwood city Talk to Sound Innovations in Hayward (http://www.soundinnovations.com/). They installed my Clifford alarm, very good shop. Good luck, Jim Bassett
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#8. RE: [E36M3] ///Maintainence - from Jeremy Conners
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Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 19:13:59 -0400 From: "Jeremy Conners" <jeremy.conners@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] ///Maintainence Robert, I researched the spark plug topic (Bosch & NGK) for the 3.0 and 3.2 M3 a few months back. Here is the data from that research (comma separated, so import into your favorite spreadsheet): Index,Brand,Part,Stock,Thread,Reach,Hex,Length,Resistor,Ground Straps,Material,Application,~Cost,Gap 1,NGK,BKR6EK,2288,14x1.25mm,0.75",0.675",ISO(50.5mm),Y,2,C,3.0L,$5,0.032" 2,NGK,BKR6EQUP,3199,14x1.25mm,0.75",0.675",ISO(50.5mm),Y,4,P,3.2L,$8,N/A 3,NGK,BKR6EKUB,3584,14x1.25mm,0.75",0.675",ISO(50.5mm),Y,2,C,3.2L,$5.5,N/A 4,Bosch,F7LDCR,4303,14x1.25mm,0.75",19mm,ISO(50.5mm),Y,2,C,3.0L(OE)/3.2L,$5, N/A 5,Bosch,FGR8KQE(FGR8KQC),4417,14x1.25mm,19mm,0.675",ISO(50.5mm),Y,4,NY(P),3. 0L/3.2L(OE),$10,N/A Most of this is deciferable from the manufacturer's part number. For example: Bosch FGR8KQE F=M14x1.25mm Thread G=Surface Gap Plug w/ Ground Electrodes R=Suppression Resistor 8=Bosch Heat Range 8 K=19mm Reach Q=4 Ground Strap E=Nickel-Yttrium Electrode Remember that heat ranges are typically only comparable in-brand. I decided to try the NGK BKR6EQUP to see how they perform compared with the Bosch FGR8KQE. BTW, the NGK website is an extremely good resourse. http://www.ngk.com Here is another good reference http://www.bosch.com.au/productcatalogue/sat/products/files/sparkplugs_passe nger.pdf Jeremy 97 coupe
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Disconnecting Factory Radio - from Jeremy Conners
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Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 19:19:52 -0400 From: "Jeremy Conners" <jeremy.conners@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Disconnecting Factory Radio Mike, Try pushing in lightly on the main connector body while using the lever. This worked with my radio as it seemed to eliminate the binding. Jeremy 97 coupe
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#10. Re:Anyone running the Kosei K-1 wheels? - from shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com
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Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 19:46:36 -0400 From: shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com Subject: Re:Anyone running the Kosei K-1 wheels? >Just noticed that Tire Rack has these in a 17x8.5 >fitment for our cars. Pretty reasonable price as >well, and they're feather light. >I'm thinking about picking up a set of 4 to run on all >corners. Anyone currently running these to comment on >rubbing, fitment, quality, etc? I can't speak for fitament on the E36 M3, but I have a set of these on my race car ('94 325i). I have a few issues with them, foremost of which is the fact that there is not enough room between the lug and the rim, so the socket gets stuck when I try to install/remove the lugs. This was enough of an issue that I actually took a dremel tool to the wheel and removed material so that I could get a thin wall socket in there. Drives me insane trying to take the wheels on and off all the time when the socket gets stuck and I have to hit it with a wrench to get it loose. Second, they are a bit hard to clean around the lugs and the spokes because the brake dust pools and there are some sharp angles. Otherwise they seem fine, and are light and strong. Shane K. This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privileged, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any other use of the email by you is prohibited.