E36M3 #3340

Tuesday, August 26, 2003 19:24:00

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. hella horn install - from HyperM3@aol.com
#2. RE: radiator parts list - from Dames, Mark
#3. M etiquette..... - from eevans@planetc.com
#4. RE: [E36M3] 95 vs 96-99 M3 visual differences - from Murray Roblin
#5. RE: [E36M3] 95 vs 96-99 M3 visual differences - from Jason Knight
#6. Re: [E36M3] 95 vs 96-99 M3 visual differences - from dgcrum@jps.net
#7. Re: [E36M3] Re: Downshifting: double clutch ? - from Michael Lawrence
#8. WTB: Used Body Panels - from geoff atkinson
#9. Re: [E36M3] Re: Downshifting: double clutch ? - from Neil Maller
#10. Re: [E36M3] Re: Downshifting: double clutch ? - from Andrew E. Kalman

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#1. hella horn install - from HyperM3@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 18:14:26 -0400 From: HyperM3@aol.com Subject: hella horn install hey all, I know people have talked about these but never the install. I just got them and it doesnt seem like as straightforward as i expected. Id rather not cut the harness instead make my own. Any feedback from what others have done would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Alex "HyperM3" Demsky 97 S/C M3 ~ http://hometown.aol.com/hyperm3/Bimmer.html

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#2. RE: radiator parts list - from Dames, Mark
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Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 15:19:18 -0700 From: "Dames, Mark" <Mark.Dames@PDO.Co.Santa-Clara.CA.US> Subject: RE: radiator parts list Here's a list of radiator parts for the 1998 E36 M3 that may be wear items to be replaced when doing the radiator. All prices are BMWCCA club member prices thru Nick Alexander BMW 1-800-800-NICK Larger S54 3-row radiator from MCoupe 17 11 2 227 281 (dunno the price here, I got stock size which I had previously purchased in anticipation of this happy event) lower radiator hose 11-53-1-708-499 (11.88) upper radiator hose (21.60) bleeder screw 17-11-1-712-788 (2.30) pressure tank retainer 17-11-1-723-580 (.96) frame rail straps securing lower pressure tank hose (need 2) 32-41-1-112-282 (.29 ea.) lower pressure tank hose 11-53-1-740-649 (6.48) upper pressure tank hose 17-11-1-723-521 (9.96) "Profile GA" no idea what this is/recommended @ only .90 11-53-1-740-437 (.90) holder tool to secure fan while loosening fan nut 88-88-6-115-030 (20.46) sealing ring for fan switch 32-41-1-093-596 (.12) rubber buffer(need 2) 17-11-1-178-412 (.78 ea.) upper radiator mounting rubber (need 2) 17-20-1-719-414 (.54 ea.) radiator upper mounting clip (need 2) 17-11-1-723-341 (2.28 ea) BMW Coolant (supposedly non-corrosive, better than any aftermarket) 83 19 9 407 775 small screw-type hose clamps to replace the disposable BMW claps on the upper expansion tank hose. I haven't included the plastic thermostat housing because its recommended that you go with a metal after-market one and there's no downside to doing so. I also don't have the number for a new thermostat listed here which you should get. A new fan clutch is also an item to be replaced, don't have the number handy. They're in the $75-$100 range. Finally I've left out reference to replacing the water pump due to conflicting thought re: previous plastic impeller pumps that self destructed VS. 1998 model pumps which had metal impellers for a time but which are no longer available. There are after market metal impeller pumps available but feedback seems to be mixed on whether their bearings will last as long as a newer version BMW plastic impeller pumps which supposedly use more durable plastic now. I'm assuming mine is a 1998 BMW metal impeller and will not need replacement. mark.

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#3. M etiquette..... - from eevans@planetc.com
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Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 18:48:45 -0400 From: eevans@planetc.com Subject: M etiquette..... We've beat this subject to death, but I have to share one more story. I'd given up "flashing" over the years as new BMW drivers came on line, but every once and a while I get the urge to share the salute. One day on the way home from work during rush hour in traffic I see a '9x M3 coming at me on a narrow 2 lane road near home. It's white like the one I'm driving in the opposite direction. So I flash my lights and as this very attractive blonde lady flies past me I look in the rear view mirror and what do I see? She slams on her brakes and almost causes a chain reaction in congested traffic. She apparently thought it was a "warning" instead of the salute. After that I now reserve the signal only for people w/ plenty of room behind them ;-). I know that lady still to this day wonders what I was "signaling" to her. Evan '88 M3 Coming soon '95 M3 For Sale, Avus Blau, 67K, $18500ish '99 M3 Daily driver

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#4. RE: [E36M3] 95 vs 96-99 M3 visual differences - from Murray Roblin
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Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 15:57:21 -0700 From: "Murray Roblin" <murray@farleyroblin.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] 95 vs 96-99 M3 visual differences 95s don't have rear headrests, but I believe 96+ do. Murray -----Original Message----- From: Som Naderi [mailto:som@dimensionracing.com] Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2003 2:53 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] 95 vs 96-99 M3 visual differences Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 14:46:38 -0700 From: "Som Naderi" <som@dimensionracing.com> Subject: 95 vs 96-99 M3 visual differences Alan Leung mentioned in the M etiquette thread that the 95 M3 was easily distinguishable from the 96-99 M3s... what are the main visual differences? Also... from the front, some of those 318s have the same front air dams as the M3s... from the profile I can usually tell if it's a 318, but I can't always tell from the front... are there any other frontal visual cues? - Som ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************

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#5. RE: [E36M3] 95 vs 96-99 M3 visual differences - from Jason Knight
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Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 16:07:18 -0700 (PDT) From: Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] 95 vs 96-99 M3 visual differences With respect to head rests, I believe they started in '98. My '97 does not have them. Frankly, there's not a ton of visibility back there anyhow, I don't think I'd want any of it impaired. Jason --- Murray Roblin <murray@farleyroblin.com> wrote: > Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 15:57:21 -0700 > From: "Murray Roblin" <murray@farleyroblin.com> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] 95 vs 96-99 M3 visual > differences > > 95s don't have rear headrests, but I believe 96+ do. > > Murray > > -----Original Message----- > From: Som Naderi [mailto:som@dimensionracing.com] > Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2003 2:53 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [E36M3] 95 vs 96-99 M3 visual differences > > > Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 14:46:38 -0700 > From: "Som Naderi" <som@dimensionracing.com> > Subject: 95 vs 96-99 M3 visual differences > > Alan Leung mentioned in the M etiquette thread that > the 95 > M3 was easily distinguishable from the 96-99 M3s... > what are > the main visual differences? Also... from the > front, some > of those 318s have the same front air dams as the > M3s... > from the profile I can usually tell if it's a 318, > but I > can't always tell from the front... are there any > other > frontal visual cues? > > - Som > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >

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#6. Re: [E36M3] 95 vs 96-99 M3 visual differences - from dgcrum@jps.net
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Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 16:22:29 -0700 (GMT-07:00) From: dgcrum@jps.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] 95 vs 96-99 M3 visual differences 96 have some of both features. My 7/96 BD has: set-in slats on grill; fat, black plastic sidemarkers; and black lower mesh grill. From what I've read, the production numbers between 1/96 and 8/96 were fairly small. Lower grills on Lux models have the slats rather than mesh - the slats have always been body color, no? David 96 Techno Violet - the other purple <<< Different grille (96+ slats stick out, 95's are set in), different sidemarker lights (95 lights are wider and have black plastic as well as a screw). 95's have body-color painted lower mesh grille, 96+ are black. 95 10 spoke wheels look different than 96+ wheels. >>>

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#7. Re: [E36M3] Re: Downshifting: double clutch ? - from Michael Lawrence
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Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 19:33:12 -0400 From: "Michael Lawrence" <95m3ltw@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Downshifting: double clutch ? With all this talk of double clutching. I want to be sure I am thinking of what people are saying they are doing. True double clutching. engage clutch, put car in neutral, release clutch, rev engine, engage clutch, put car in next gear, release clutch while maintaining proper RPM. When some of you say you double clutch, your doing all of the above for every shift? I am just dumbfounded that anyone would bother with those steps, it does NOT help the syncrhos in a modern transmission. When I have heard of people double clutching, it was actually just rev matching aka heel and toe. I just want to be sure I am thinking of the same thing Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Neil Maller" <neil.maller@gte.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2003 5:23 PM Subject: [E36M3] Re: Downshifting: double clutch ? > Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 16:19:13 -0500 > From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > Subject: Re: Downshifting: double clutch ? > > on 8/26/03 1:03 PM, "Newman, Christopher" <CNewman@LSAC.org> wrote: > > > When you downshift (whether a heel/toe under braking, or just matching revs > > while not under braking) do you double clutch ? > > Yes, almost always. > > > Or do you just leave it to the synchros ? > > No, hardly ever. > > > Does double clutching just cause additional wear and tear ? > > Less on synchros, more on clutch release mechanism. > > > Does your downshifting technique change if you are on the street versus on > > the track ? > > Nope. > > > Thanks for your thoughts. > > Worth every penny you paid for 'em... <g> > > Neil > 96 M3 > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >

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#8. WTB: Used Body Panels - from geoff atkinson
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Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 19:35:29 -0400 From: "geoff atkinson" <pskalc@hotmail.com> Subject: WTB: Used Body Panels Hi everybody, I'm looking for a few different body panels for my '95. But, since this comes at a time when I am rebuilding another engine, I'd like to keep the costs down a little, without sacrificing quality. So, if anyone knows of any used panels, or of a good "used BMW parts dealer", then please let me know. Most importantly, I need a door skin/shell... and Northeast US is preferable. Any information is greatly appreciated. Thank you. -Geoff Atkinson _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8: Get 6 months for $9.95/month. http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup

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#9. Re: [E36M3] Re: Downshifting: double clutch ? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 18:59:34 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Downshifting: double clutch ? on 8/26/03 6:33 PM, Michael Lawrence at 95m3ltw@comcast.net wrote: > With all this talk of double clutching. > > I want to be sure I am thinking of what people are saying they are doing. > > True double clutching. engage clutch, put car in neutral, release clutch, rev > engine, engage clutch, put car in next gear, release clutch while maintaining > proper RPM. > > When some of you say you double clutch, your doing all of the above for > every shift? Yes, every downshift. > I am just dumbfounded that anyone would bother with those steps, I do it automatically. I learned to drive on a car that had an unsynchronized gearbox. You either developed a deaf ear, or got good at DDC downshifts. In fact on that car I rarely used the clutch at all either to up- or down- shift. > it does NOT help the syncrhos in a modern transmission. Sure it does. Now it may be *unnecessary* help, especially on an M3 where the synchros are strong enough to allow inadvertently engaging 2nd gear instead of 4th at 90+ mph, but if perfectly executed there's then no load on the synchros at all with a DDC shownshift. > When I have heard of people double clutching, it was actually just rev > matching aka heel and toe. Heel and toe isn't the same thing, since it involves using the brake. You can either rev match or DDC with or without applying the brake, although more normally you would. > I just want to be sure I am thinking of the same thing. In my case, yes. Neil 96 M3

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#10. Re: [E36M3] Re: Downshifting: double clutch ? - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 17:12:51 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Downshifting: double clutch ? Re: >I want to be sure I am thinking of what people are saying they are doing. > >True double clutching. >engage clutch, put car in neutral, release clutch, rev engine, engage >clutch, put car in next gear, release clutch while maintaining proper RPM. > >When some of you say you double clutch, your doing all of the above for >every shift? Yep, every one except for when there isn't sufficient time (e.g. 4-2 into Turn 11 at Laguna), and on the street when coming to a stop. >I am just dumbfounded that anyone would bother with those steps, it does >NOT help the syncrhos in a modern transmission. When I have heard of >people double clutching, it was actually just rev matching aka heel and toe. >I just want to be sure I am thinking of the same thing Syncros wear -- that is not a matter of opinion. They are a wear item -- they work via friction, and friction wears them down. And double-clutch-downshifting DOES help the syncros -- it makes it easier for them to do their job. In fact, it makes them nearly superfluous. If you don't understand why, then grab a good picture of a tranny's internals, learn exactly how syncros work, and then work through (in your head) what the input and output shafts are doing as you shift up and shift down. Speeds are changing, and syncros match speeds between different shafts in the tranny. The only difference (vis-a-vis synchros) between older and newer trannies is the quality of the oil inside, and the materials used to make the synchros (and the "format war" that was won by cone synchros over the Alfa/Porsche ring synchros of yore). Synchros wear much more slowly than they used to in the 60's. But they work in exactly the same manner. Double-down-clutching reduces their wear, and in general, stress on the driveline, esp. the tranny's internbals. Why? Because double-clutch downshifting moves the burden of accelerating the tranny's internals up to the right speed for engagement from the synchros to the engine. When you single-clutch downshift, all of the work to spin the layshaft up to the right speed for the next-lower-gear is done by the syncro(s) of the gear you're going into. When you single-clutch ** upshift **, the layshaft is already falling in speed (because you disengaged the clutch) to match the output shaft, and so the syncros have to work much less. When you double-clutch downshift, you change (increase) the layshaft's speed to match the output shaft, and therefore the syncro(s) do no (on a perfect downshift) or little (on a not-so-perfect one) work when you engage the gear. Synchros are a simple, throw-away means of bringing two coaxial rotating parts to the same speed, so that the dogs can engage without chatter and breakage. Unfortunately, synchros are buried deep inside a tranny, and therefore their replacement is non-trivial. Better materials make them last longer, but since actual mechanical contact (plus lube issues, etc.) is required, and rubbing occurs if the speeds don't match, they don't last forever. How much wear are we talking about? I dunno, but I have never worn out a tranny, and I have well over 100,000 miles on a couple of the trannies. -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com

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