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#1. RE: traction control (was: Heel and toe technique) - from BOOM,BILL (HP-Roseville,ex1)
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Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 20:50:45 -0400 From: "BOOM,BILL (HP-Roseville,ex1)" <bill.boom@hp.com> Subject: RE: traction control (was: Heel and toe technique) > From: Paul Smith <pauls@ontario.com> > Subject: Heel and toe technique > > ...This p-car guy was really impressed with the M3's > handling. So much so that he suggested I keep on my ASC+T as > he did. I'd think that the better a car handled, the *less* you'd need or want the traction control on. But regardless, you'll definitely be turning it off once you feel it cutting power on you as you get faster and slipping the tires more. - Bill
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#2. Wanted pics or diagrams...95 M3 - from Matthew D
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Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 02:29:16 +0000 From: "Matthew D" <mddurbahn@hotmail.com> Subject: Wanted pics or diagrams...95 M3 I need some high res pics of the engine compartment or wiring diagrams for 95 M3....can any help? Matt _________________________________________________________________ Get MSN 8 and help protect your children with advanced parental controls. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/parental
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#3. Engine Ticking - chain tensioner? - from Dave Arnold
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Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 23:36:03 -0400 From: "Dave Arnold" <air2daa@insightbb.com> Subject: Engine Ticking - chain tensioner? Hi everyone, I have a question concerning my 95 M3 with 107K miles. I have noticed a ticking noise at idle speeds. It's noticeable from outside the car, but when the engine is revved to 1500 RPM or higher, the noise seems to go away. It's best described as a ticking noise. At a driving school in June, it was first noticed and I was told that it was due to the oil I was using (Mobile 1 15W-50) and that I should run an extra quart to eliminate it. However, I have recently been told that it is most likely the hydraulic chain tensioner. I have looked in the Bentley manual and have found the tensioner. It looks somewhat easy to replace as long as I can actually get to it - the Bentley manual shows the tensioner with several parts of the head removed. My questions are: 1. Is the chain tensioner a likely candidate to cause this type of noise or should I look at something else? 2. Is there a way to verify if this is actually the cause? 3. If it is the cause, how difficult is it to change? I did not see anything about adjusting the tensioner and the only caution is that it is under spring tension. Incidentally, I found that curious that it would be under "spring" tension when it's called a "hydraulic" tensioner. Any help would be appreciated. Dave A 95 M3 "HI OFCR"
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Engine Ticking - chain tensioner? - from ChuckBrazeau@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 00:27:50 -0400 From: ChuckBrazeau@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Engine Ticking - chain tensioner? Dave, I've replaced the lower/primary chain tensioner to fix the chain rattle that i was getting at approximately 1500rpm (more noticable on decelaration), however i still have an occasional ticking sound that is very faint and comes and goes when the car is sitting at an idle. I can be sitting in line at a drive-thru, and i'll hear it ticking for about 15 seconds, then it'll go away for about 30 seconds, and so on. As you stated, it goes away if i rev the motor up slightly. I've used Mobil 1 15W-50 (8.5 quarts) in the past, and now i'm using Mobil 1 0W-30 (8.5 quarts) with no change. It may just be a common thing with these motors (or maybe not), but at least you know you're not the only one. :-) By the way... here is the procedure for changing out the lower/primary chain tensioner... http://www.geocities.com/rick_poon/tensioner.htm Chuck Brazeau 1995 BMW M3 - Violet on Black SCCA Solo2 - Street Modified #95 http://www.brazeauracing.com/ In a message dated 8/26/2003 11:43:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time, air2daa@insightbb.com writes: > Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 23:36:03 -0400 > From: "Dave Arnold" <air2daa@insightbb.com> > Subject: Engine Ticking - chain tensioner? > > Hi everyone, > > I have a question concerning my 95 M3 with 107K miles. I have noticed a > ticking noise at idle speeds. It's noticeable from outside the car, but > when the engine is revved to 1500 RPM or higher, the noise seems to go > away. It's best described as a ticking noise. At a driving school in > June, it was first noticed and I was told that it was due to the oil I > was using (Mobile 1 15W-50) and that I should run an extra quart to > eliminate it. However, I have recently been told that it is most > likely the hydraulic chain tensioner. I have looked in the Bentley > manual and have found the tensioner. It looks somewhat easy to replace > as long as I can actually get to it - the Bentley manual shows the > tensioner with several parts of the head removed. > > My questions are: > > 1. Is the chain tensioner a likely candidate to cause this type of > noise or should I look at something else? > > 2. Is there a way to verify if this is actually the cause? > > 3. If it is the cause, how difficult is it to change? I did not see > anything about adjusting the tensioner and the only caution is that it > is under spring tension. Incidentally, I found that curious that it > would be under "spring" tension when it's called a > "hydraulic" > tensioner. > > Any help would be appreciated. > > Dave A > 95 M3 "HI OFCR"
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#5. RTAB question - from daanesh chanduwadia
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Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 02:32:58 -0400 From: "daanesh chanduwadia" <daanesh@hotmail.com> Subject: RTAB question i've been carping that my 95 M3 doesn't feel much like a BMW (i.e. it rides and at times handles like a live axle or lowered car) since the RTABs were replaced the first time. I had taken it to the stealer <1 year later and had them replace everything that is known to wear and re-replace the RTABS to make sure they were in right. Now, after going to nearly every shop in the NE, one astute tech noticed that the RTAB's were clocked improperly- in other words neither or the cutouts in the RTAB corresponded with the rear trailing arm. so i took it back to the stealer that had performed the work and asked nicely that the bushing be installed properly this time around, to which they responded that they *were* was in right, and that they would not warranty the work because the shock mounts were from an E30 convertible and the RTAB's were 3.2 spec (both installed by them when i requested that the most hardy parts be used to best withstand the tortures of boston roads). first of all, am i (and my favorite new tech) correct in assuming that the rear trailing arm is mean to fit snugly in one of the two notches in the bushing? (can't see why else those notches would be there...) second, assuming the disinterested tech is right, the stealer is protecting their own best interest, and E30 convertible mounts and 3.2 RTABS don't make a isn't it true that now that the RTAB is not clocked as it was from the factory there is no way to correctly clock it so the preload will be correct, i.e. the entire trailing arm with bushing needs to be ordered and installed? or am i better off with an aftermarket bushing sans preload issues? i'm sure to have more questions as this unfolds, but wanted to see if anyone has any feedback before i get there to argue my case tomorrow.... thanks, daanesh who has decided to do all future work himselfGet more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Engine Ticking - chain tensioner? - from DocWyte
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Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 04:38:35 -0700 (PDT) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Engine Ticking - chain tensioner? 8.5 quarts? So you're overfilling by 1.5 quarts of oil? That seems like a lot... -josh --- ChuckBrazeau@aol.com wrote: > Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 00:27:50 -0400 > From: ChuckBrazeau@aol.com > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Engine Ticking - chain > tensioner? > > Dave, > I've replaced the lower/primary chain tensioner to > fix the chain rattle that i was getting at > approximately 1500rpm (more noticable on > decelaration), however i still have an occasional > ticking sound that is very faint and comes and goes > when the car is sitting at an idle. I can be > sitting in line at a drive-thru, and i'll hear it > ticking for about 15 seconds, then it'll go away for > about 30 seconds, and so on. As you stated, it goes > away if i rev the motor up slightly. I've used > Mobil 1 15W-50 (8.5 quarts) in the past, and now i'm > using Mobil 1 0W-30 (8.5 quarts) with no change. It > may just be a common thing with these motors (or > maybe not), but at least you know you're not the > only one. :-) > > By the way... here is the procedure for changing out > the lower/primary chain tensioner... > http://www.geocities.com/rick_poon/tensioner.htm > > Chuck Brazeau > 1995 BMW M3 - Violet on Black > SCCA Solo2 - Street Modified #95 > http://www.brazeauracing.com/ > > In a message dated 8/26/2003 11:43:13 PM Eastern > Daylight Time, air2daa@insightbb.com writes: > > > Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 23:36:03 -0400 > > From: "Dave Arnold" <air2daa@insightbb.com> > > Subject: Engine Ticking - chain tensioner? > > > > Hi everyone, > > > > I have a question concerning my 95 M3 with 107K > miles. I have noticed a > > ticking noise at idle speeds. It's noticeable > from outside the car, but > > when the engine is revved to 1500 RPM or higher, > the noise seems to go > > away. It's best described as a ticking noise. At > a driving school in > > June, it was first noticed and I was told that it > was due to the oil I > > was using (Mobile 1 15W-50) and that I should run > an extra quart to > > eliminate it. However, I have recently been told > that it is most > > likely the hydraulic chain tensioner. I have > looked in the Bentley > > manual and have found the tensioner. It looks > somewhat easy to replace > > as long as I can actually get to it - the Bentley > manual shows the > > tensioner with several parts of the head removed. > > > > My questions are: > > > > 1. Is the chain tensioner a likely candidate to > cause this type of > > noise or should I look at something else? > > > > 2. Is there a way to verify if this is actually > the cause? > > > > 3. If it is the cause, how difficult is it to > change? I did not see > > anything about adjusting the tensioner and the > only caution is that it > > is under spring tension. Incidentally, I found > that curious that it > > would be under "spring" tension when it's called a > > > "hydraulic" > > tensioner. > > > > Any help would be appreciated. > > > > Dave A > > 95 M3 "HI OFCR" > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > ===== __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
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#7. Re: [E36M3] 95 vs 96-99 M3 visual differences - from Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering
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Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 08:38:02 -0400 From: "Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering" <ben@rogueengineering.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 95 vs 96-99 M3 visual differences As a previous owner of one of the few 1996 M3s, there were very few visual clues: - The front chrome kidney grills on 95 & 96 are the same (flat). They changed in 1997. - The fender marker on 95 & 96 are the same (big). In 97, they were smaller. - 95 non-lux models had body color lower mesh on the front bumper. On non-lux models, the 96+ had black mesh (unpainted). - More obvious, the staggered wheels appeared in 1996. Regards, Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com 201-444-8150 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Som Naderi" <som@dimensionracing.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2003 5:53 PM Subject: [E36M3] 95 vs 96-99 M3 visual differences > Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 14:46:38 -0700 > From: "Som Naderi" <som@dimensionracing.com> > Subject: 95 vs 96-99 M3 visual differences > > Alan Leung mentioned in the M etiquette thread that the 95 M3 was easily distinguishable from the 96-99 M3s... what are the main visual differences? Also... from the front, some of those 318s have the same front air dams as the M3s... from the profile I can usually tell if it's a 318, but I can't always tell from the front... are there any other frontal visual cues? > > - Som > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#8. BMW ///M school for Peachtree BMW CCA members - from Tim Ng
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Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 05:51:38 -0700 From: "Tim Ng" <s14realm3@peachtreebmwcca.org> Subject: BMW ///M school for Peachtree BMW CCA members This is for all BMW CCA Peachtree members (Atlanta region) only We are having a ///M school @ the performance center @ the BMW plant in Spartenburg SC. on 9/13 sat. There will also be a special factory tour on friday evening and group dinner afterwards. All members of the Peachtree chapter are invited to sign up. The school is $275 for the day BUT you are driving E46 M3. E39 M5 and E46 330iPPs. This is a school, not a race, so proper attitudes and care for BMW's cars are required (some of you understand what this means :)) schedule: class (chulk talk) skid pad- M5 braking- m5 handling-m3 lane changes- 330pp lunch class figure 8's- m3 auto-x- m3 wet/dry course (water wall)- m5 goto this link for registration and info. hurry, only a few spots left. ============================================================ You all will be participating in the fun-filled school at the performance Center on 9/13 in Spartanburg SC. Please make your hotel reservations by 8/22 to get the guaranteed rate if you plan on staying at the hotel. For those going up on Friday, there is a plant tour at 4pm (space is filling fast), we may do a group dinner in downtown Greenville. And we will be having our chapter meeting at the Performance Center after the school on Saturday evening (Please RSVP $5 per person). Hotel Information: Downtown Greenville, Hyatt Regency Greenville, 220 North Main Street, Greenville, SC 29601 Rate: $87.00 per night, Dates rate are valid: Friday 9/12 and Saturday 9/13 Individuals should dial 800 233-1234 and request the" BMW CAR CLUB" room block rate. Reservations and/or rooming list must be received by 6:00AM Friday, August 22, 2003. Thereafter reservations will be accepted on a space-available basis Tim Ng 95 BUZZNM3 92 325ic M-Technic 91 M3 street car 88 M3/2.5 track car **new project 87 325is*** **another 85 325e**
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Engine Ticking - chain tensioner? - from ChuckBrazeau@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 09:16:04 -0400 From: ChuckBrazeau@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Engine Ticking - chain tensioner? In an effort to reduce/eliminate my lifter ticking after my auto-x runs, yes (not the same faint ticking that i get at idle during normal driving). I spoke with Bob Tunnell about it, and he said that PTG told him that the standar E36M3 oil pan will hold up to 9 quarts without any ill effects. BTW... i still have lifter ticking after my auto-x runs. :-( Chuck Brazeau 1995 BMW M3 - Violet on Black SCCA Solo2 - Street Modified #95 http://www.brazeauracing.com/ In a message dated 8/27/2003 7:38:35 AM Eastern Daylight Time, josh_wyte@yahoo.com writes: > 8.5 quarts? So you're overfilling by 1.5 quarts of > oil? That seems like a lot... > > -josh
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#10. heel and toe - from Tim Ng
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Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 06:28:59 -0700 From: "Tim Ng" <s14realm3@peachtreebmwcca.org> Subject: heel and toe Chester, I didn't know you were @ our Peachtree driving school @ Road A. Would have met you then, oh, well, next time. as others have said, heel and toe does not really use heel and toe.(maybe the 911 guys do, they have this BIG throttle plate that is an aftermarket piece that allows them to heel and toe) Your instructo should have shown you how its done in the parking lot. I excercise I teach my students for matching revs when blipping throttle is to find a straight deserted road. No-one following you. drive @ 40 mph in 4th, then put the car in netural, blip the throttle to bring up the revs and then clutch in and downshift to third. Do this smoothly and remember the speed of the car, the engine revs/ the gear that you are going into/ and finally the most important, the amount you need to press on the throttle. Once you master the amount you need to tip the throttle in for a certain speed to a certain gear, you will master the throttle matching thing. Its NOT easy as your have many combinations of speed, gears, timing. PRACITCE MAKES PERFECT. AND the best performance product for heel and toe is a light weight flywheel (my opinion). My E36 m3 with the LTW flywheel revs faster than my DM race e30 M3 2.5 motor. Having a LTW flywheel allows faster and easier engine revs. Tim Ng 95 E36 M3 BzznM3 92 E30 325ic M-tech convetible 91 E30 M3 street car 88 E30 M3 Track car 93 Chevy Blazer 2 dr. tow vehicle
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#11. backfire question - from Cody_McCoy
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Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 06:32:21 -0700 From: Cody_McCoy <Cody_McCoy@sd.vrtx.com> Subject: backfire question Group, In my 95 m3 coupe I experience what some might call a backfire sound when downshifting(stock exhaust), like a leaking exhaust or blown out muffler, is this normal? anyone BTDT? occurs usually at relatively low speeds mostly downshifting from third to second after clutch is engaged/while engine is braking, revs are about 3k-2k, any thoughts like clogged cat or blown exhaust manifold gasket, what to look for etc.? I did a o2 sensor last month and it all looked good...well rusted but still good condition, no performance errata just doesn't sound right, thanks for the thoughts. cheers Cody ///M '95 M3 coupe