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#1. Brake locked up and won't let go - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 17:29:38 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Brake locked up and won't let go > I have my front passenger brake that is engaged at all times (since lunch). > It is not locked up, just engaged. I hear/feel a brake pad and rotor rubbing > and have one hot rotor. Any suggestions for when I get home? Brake line? > Caliper? I would suspect the caliper is frozen or sticking and needs to be rebuilt. How many miles on your M3 and what has been the usage or wear/tear? Calipers are fairly easy to rebuild and can be done almost entirely by hand (except extracting the piston which will take air pressure). If you don't want to do it yourself, let me know. Regards, Rich - rebuilt M Coupe race calipers two weekends ago....
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#2. Re: Brake locked up and won't let go - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2003 16:39:19 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Brake locked up and won't let go on 9/2/03 4:00 PM, Paul Smith <pauls@ontario.com> wrote: > I have my front passenger brake that is engaged at all times (since lunch). > It is not locked up, just engaged. I hear/feel a brake pad and rotor rubbing > and have one hot rotor. Any suggestions for when I get home? Brake line? > Caliper? Time to rebuild the caliper. You may be able to free it up temporarily by retracting the piston with a C-clamp, but you should rebuild the caliper immediately thereafter. Trust me, it will NOT cure itself. And if that caliper is stuck, ask yourself how far behind the others must be... Neil 96 M3
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#3. Re: hid lighting - from HyperM3@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2003 17:43:36 -0400 From: HyperM3@aol.com Subject: Re: hid lighting Ive always been interested in the HID lighting but Im still using US headlamps. Because of the little room I have from the supercharger, I cant go Euro. Has anyone done HID with factory lights? If so, is it worth getting a set? Alex "HyperM3" Demsky 97 S/C M3 ~ http://hometown.aol.com/hyperm3/Bimmer.html
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#4. Tow vehicle for e36 325 - from Michael Turgeon
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Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 14:53:02 -0700 (PDT) From: Michael Turgeon <turgeon1@yahoo.com> Subject: Tow vehicle for e36 325 NE1 in or around Garland, TX that could tell me something about, i.e.experience with (direct or indirect) Durnago Motors? They have a vehicle for sale that I am interested in to tow my ITS car and hopefully someday an enclosed trailer. Private responese please. Thanks for the BW, Mike Turgeon #18 ITS #418 JP __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
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#5. RE: question about bushings - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 17:41:23 -0400 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: question about bushings Hunt, I would go with stock bushings. I do not have much knowledge about rear control arm bushings, however for trailing arm; I suggest you go with stock (97 model) bushings with Ground Control spacers. I have tried monoball and poly bushings and they rattled and squeaked (respectively). From my understanding, the rear subframe bushings last forever (someone correct me if I am wrong). Good luck and see you at the track. A.L. Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 18:40:22 -0700 (PDT) From: Hunt Hodgetts <hhodgetts@yahoo.com> Subject: question about bushings I was inspecting my 97 M3 Coupe with 122k miles this weekend for an upcoming driver's school at Road Atlanta. One of the bushings on my rear control arm has a small tear. I figure it's a good time to replace all my bushings with urethane bushings. I found some bushing kits for the rear subframe and one for the rear trailing arms but was wondering if anyone sells a complete set of urethane bushings for the entire suspension?? Also, I'm assuming urethane bushings are superior to rubber because of increased durability. Is this correct? Since I use my car as a daily driver, are there any negative side affects I should be aware of such as a harsh ride, constant squeaking noises, etc? Thanks, Hunt
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Brake locked up and won't let go - from Michael Lawrence
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Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 18:00:29 -0400 From: "Michael Lawrence" <95m3ltw@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake locked up and won't let go Also, if you don't have the time or tools to do a rebuild, Rebuilt calipers can be bought at most parts stores. I checked at Advanced Auto and believe they told me either $45 or $55 for a rebuilt E36 M3 caliper. I have used their rebuilt calipers on other BMWs with no issues what so ever. For my 528i, they were $27 each, a no brainier vs. rebuilding the old caliper. Mike ----- Original Message ----- > I have my front passenger brake that is engaged at all times (since lunch). > It is not locked up, just engaged. I hear/feel a brake pad and rotor rubbing > and have one hot rotor. Any suggestions for when I get home? Brake line? > Caliper? I would suspect the caliper is frozen or sticking and needs to be rebuilt. How many miles on your M3 and what has been the usage or wear/tear? Calipers are fairly easy to rebuild and can be done almost entirely by hand (except extracting the piston which will take air pressure). If you don't want to do it yourself, let me know. Regards, Rich - rebuilt M Coupe race calipers two weekends ago.... ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#7. The HID plunge - There is NO NEW LAW - from NabliLaw
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Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 20:33:27 -0400 From: "NabliLaw" <nabli@earthlink.net> Subject: The HID plunge - There is NO NEW LAW Guys, there is no "new" law by the NHTSA regarding retrofit HID kits. NHTSA's position is these kits were always illegal since they could never meet their specifications as far as safety etc.... If you need that info go here: http://dms.dot.gov/search/searchFormSimple.cfm and search for docket number 3397 for all the different bulbs. In case you are wondering about this 8/15/03 here's the scoop. NHTSA sent out a "bunch" (maybe 5 or so) letters to some HID sellers in which the letter stated not in so many words "what do you think you are doing selling these kits when you know they don't comply with our standards." In the letter they asked for a reply by 8/15/03. OF course, NHTSA can't impose their regulation on all the HID sellers but their authority will probably cover well in excess of 90% of them. BTW, none of this should be taken as legal advise or relied upon to justify the sale of these HID kits. Cheers, Jim E.
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#8. Front Brake Clunking - from Greg Gantt
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Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 21:19:14 -0400 From: "Greg Gantt" <ggantt@gantt-consulting.com> Subject: Front Brake Clunking I rebuilt my front calipers, installed floating rotors and R4S pads last winter along with my GC track/school kit install. I've noticed a very slight clunking sound when I first apply the brakes. I've since checked the torque on caliper bolts, guide pins, and the allen bolts that secures the rotor to the hub but have not gotten rid of the clunk. Is it possible the Porterfield R4S pads are simply not made to the close tolerance the stock Jurid pads are where they move about within the caliper? I'm doing a DE at Pocono in October and really want to get this fixed - any ideas? Thanks. Greg '95 M3
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#9. Help: Brake Lights! - from Dave Arnold
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Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 22:08:34 -0400 From: "Dave Arnold" <air2daa@insightbb.com> Subject: Help: Brake Lights! All, I'm having a bit of a problem with my brake lights on an 95 M3. Today, my the OBC started flashing the "Warning: Brake Light Circuit, Check Owners Manual" started flashing at me. I've had this happen to me before, and when I checked everything always seemed alright. No bulbs burned out, everything working. Today, it really nags me all day long and when I check the brake lights, there is nothing. I've got them to flash sometimes, but for the most part there are no lights. It's all three lights, and the reverse lights don't work either. I checked the ground, and that seems good as well as the fuses. There is just no power getting to the lamps - any of the brakes or the reverse lights. Looking at the Bentley manual I don't see much else to check except possibly the OBC. It's been raining a lot here and I thought that maybe a central wiring connection got wet but I'm not sure which one to check. Any help would be appreciated as I don't want to drive the car without brake lights and it's my only car. Incidentally, with all of the rain here today and the water knocked off the left fog light lens - not shattered, but knocked completely off at the seal. Anyone have a spare left fog light they want to sell or know a good source to get a replacement inexpensively? Thank you, Dave A 95 ///M3 "HI OFCR"
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#10. RE: Front Brake Rubbing - from marc@plante.com
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Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2003 06:10:17 -0700 (PDT) From: marc@plante.com Subject: RE: Front Brake Rubbing You need to rebuild/replace the caliper...You'll find that if you go for a drive longer than about 10 mins (esp on the highway) that rubbing will build to a pretty violent shudder as heat builds up. You piston is sticking. You might be able to rebuild it, but you might also want to buy a replacement, just replance the caliper on the car, then rebuild the caliper at your leisure off of the car. You can then keep the old caliper as a spare (if you plan on using the car a lot) or resell it to recover 50-75% of cost. Marc Plante E36 325i, 214k Vienna, VA