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#1. Re: [E36M3] gear shift rattle - from Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering
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Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 12:03:00 -0400 From: "Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering" <ben@rogueengineering.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] gear shift rattle Go for the cheap fix...replace the selector rod gear joint tension bushing. Regards, Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com 201-444-8150 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jay Johnson" <jay@pactitle.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2003 11:50 AM Subject: [E36M3] gear shift rattle > Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 08:42:51 -0700 > From: Jay Johnson <jay@pactitle.com> > Subject: gear shift rattle > > My gear shift rattles upon light acceleration in second gear. What am I > looking at as far as correcting this problem. > The car has 172,000 miles and it's still got the original clutch. > > thanks in advance for any help. > > Jay > 95M3 > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Trouble with spark plugs - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 12:19:57 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Trouble with spark plugs Andrew, Any update on the repair to your M3? Did the thread inserts work? Or did you have to get a new head? Did you persuade the CPO dealer to pay for the repair? Sorry to hear about your troubles, Lowell Seaton '95 M3 BMW CCA #131505 Original message below: <A HREF="http://www.bmw-m.net/digest/#2"> #2. [E36M3] Following up with trouble with spark plugs</A> - from <A HREF="mailto:AES@GEJLAW.com">Andrew E. Skopp</A> <A HREF="http://www.bmw-m.net/digest/#Top">Top</A> Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 14:30:01 -0400From: "Andrew E. Skopp" <AES@GEJLAW.com> Subject: [E36M3] Following up with trouble with spark plugs Earlier this week, I wrote to the list about my spark plug troubles and the car having no power. Well, the answer is....stripped threads in the cylinders. The car is a CPO car at the dealership now. They were going to rethread the affected cylinders with some fancy drilling/boring machine, but BMW technical, whom they called, said that this would likely lead to a bad outcome. So, they are pulling the head to investigate further about the cause. Of course, I brought up the issue of who's paying for this. Right now, the dealership is taking the position of "it depends." They are saying that a readout of the car indicates that it was overrevved. I don't know what triggers this, but I know that I did not have any misshifts. I do have JimC software, bumping up the limiter. I don't recall hitting the limiter but it's possible. Would this trip the overrev circuit memory? Their investigation is going to focus on the condition of the valves and the cylinders in determining whether there was an overrev. Any thoughts on all of this would be appreciated. Andrew E. Skopp 98 M3
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#3. RE: [E36M3] Trouble with spark plugs - from Andrew E. Skopp
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Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 12:35:49 -0400 From: "Andrew E. Skopp" <AES@GEJLAW.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Trouble with spark plugs There is not much to report just yet. The car has not been repaired as I am still trying pursued BMW to cover the repair. Right now I am dealing directly with BMW customer service, waiting for their reply. Once we proceed, I have concluded that the thread inserts method of repair should actually provide me with a stronger cylinder head. I'll let the list know how things turn out. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: LoweSeaton@aol.com [mailto:LoweSeaton@aol.com] Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2003 12:20 PM To: Andrew E. Skopp; e36m3@bmw-m.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] Trouble with spark plugs Andrew, Any update on the repair to your M3? Did the thread inserts work? Or did you have to get a new head? Did you persuade the CPO dealer to pay for the repair? Sorry to hear about your troubles, Lowell Seaton '95 M3 BMW CCA #131505 Original message below: #2. [E36M3] Following up with trouble <http://www.bmw-m.net/digest/#2> with spark plugs - from Andrew E. <mailto:AES@GEJLAW.com> Skopp Top <http://www.bmw-m.net/digest/#Top> Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 14:30:01 -0400From: "Andrew E. Skopp" <AES@GEJLAW.com> Subject: [E36M3] Following up with trouble with spark plugs Earlier this week, I wrote to the list about my spark plug troubles and the car having no power. Well, the answer is....stripped threads in the cylinders. The car is a CPO car at the dealership now. They were going to rethread the affected cylinders with some fancy drilling/boring machine, but BMW technical, whom they called, said that this would likely lead to a bad outcome. So, they are pulling the head to investigate further about the cause. Of course, I brought up the issue of who's paying for this. Right now, the dealership is taking the position of "it depends." They are saying that a readout of the car indicates that it was overrevved. I don't know what triggers this, but I know that I did not have any misshifts. I do have JimC software, bumping up the limiter. I don't recall hitting the limiter but it's possible. Would this trip the overrev circuit memory? Their investigation is going to focus on the condition of the valves and the cylinders in determining whether there was an overrev. Any thoughts on all of this would be appreciated. Andrew E. Skopp 98 M3
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#4. Battery Draining After Engine Swap - from shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com
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Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 12:27:19 -0500 From: <shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com> Subject: Battery Draining After Engine Swap <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN"> <HTML> <HEAD> <META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; charset=Windows-1252"> <META NAME="Generator" CONTENT="MS Exchange Server version 6.0.6479.0"> <TITLE>[E36M3] E36M3 #3375</TITLE> </HEAD> <BODY dir=ltr> <DIV><FONT size=2>List:</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>This is on my '94 325i race car, but should be similar enough.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>I swapped the motor on my '94 325i after I killed it at Barber a month or so back. I thought I hooked up everything as I took it off (labeled everything, etc.). Unfortunately, I travel a ton and the car has been sitting a couple weeks since I finished the new (ha! new to me that is) motor install so my mind was a bit fuzzy on all the connections. When I went to start it up the day I finished, it started and ran fine so I patted myself on the back and shut it off figuring I would bleed the cooling system when I had the time.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>Well Sunday I had the time and I took about 20-25 minutes to warm up the car and bleed the system. I went to load it onto the trailer in order to go to Road Atlanta this coming Friday and noticed the low battery light was on the Stack system showing only 8.4 Volts. I figured it had just drained from sitting, flawed logic since it never has before and the car had been running for a while. When I went to pull it out of the garage it stalled and would not start.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>I charged the battery and it started back up (battery showed 12+ Volts), but I knew something was wrong. Something is draining the battery at a very fast rate. Battery is an Interstate and is less than two years old, never had any problems with it and I think it is OK based on it taking a charge. When I hooked up the battery after charging, I hooked up the positive first and then the negative. Normally, the negative hooks up with no sparks (whereas when you connect the positive you will get sparks), but this time it did.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>The only thing I can think is that I either missed a ground (engine is grounded near the motor mount, coils are grounded to the valve cover spot, negative lead to the strut tower is there, and the negative lead that sits beneath the postive lead in front of the DME area is there) or swapped two wires and accidently hooked up a negative to where a positive should be. I checked the starter wiring three times before I put the intake manifold back on because I didn't want to have to mess with it again. I had labeled it '8mm wire - starter' and '10 mm wire ' etc, and put the bolts back on so I would think it would be tough to mess it up. The postive lead from the battery is the big bolt in the center so the other wire naturally went on the last open pole. That doesn't mean that I still didn't manage to screw it up, but would the starter work if I had mixed up any of the wires? I can't really think of any other areas that I could mix up except for the Alternator, but it has only two wires and different sized bolts, meaning that I couldn't put the negative (small bolt) onto the positive (large bolt).</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>I'd appreciate your thoughts on what to check so that I can hopefully find this quickly Friday morning. If any of you are going to be at Road Atlanta on Friday morning and feel like giving a hand I'll buy the beer Friday night...</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>Shane K.</FONT></DIV> <DIV>'96 M3</DIV> <DIV>'94 325i #335 JP</DIV> </BODY> </HTML>
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#5. Re: Alarms.. What are you using??? - from JUSTIN GERRY
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Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 13:43:06 -0400 From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> Subject: Re: Alarms.. What are you using??? No, I am actually in metro-west Boston. I have to wonder if the thief who took my stuff here in Framingham has a cousin in Santa Clara, both of these guys have a rather tinted up pimped out fart canned (muffler by Folgers) 318i automatics that are "lowerdddd with da big wheellzzz and mthreeeee spoilerz". Thankfully I did not have a rear spoiler or even a rear badge for them to take. Thanks all for the feedback. -Justin -- '76 02 (daily driver for awhile... now she needs a new starter) '97 m3 (bumperless, trimless... alarm system soon) bmw cca checkout http://www.bmw2002.net
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#6. Wet Car - from Mike Frank
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Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 12:59:17 -0500 From: "Mike Frank" <mfrank28@comcast.net> Subject: Wet Car Thanks to all who replied with advice regarding my soaked carpet. Visions of my M3 smelling like mold, combined with my disgust concerning the whole situation, motivated me to remove the carpet, and most of my interior, very. let's say, efficiently. It took roughly 3 days of sunny, 75-80 degree, low humidity weather for it to dry out completely. BTW, that soaked carpet had to weigh almost 100 lbs. wet. Everything is fine now, except for the fact that I have to put it all back together. Thanks Again, Mike Frank 97 M3
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#7. fender rolling - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 11:17:58 -0700 From: Kit Wetzler <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: fender rolling Hey guys, I just bought a fender roller and am thinking that I'm gonna rent it out or roll people's fenders just to recoup the cost of it. Drop me an email if you're interested, normally, places charge about $45 a fender for it, I'm gonna be cheaper than that. Let me know if you're interested! -kit
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#8. Engine lid - from Edward N Frank
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Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 14:49:10 -0400 From: "Edward N Frank" <enf@iglou.com> Subject: Engine lid I am in need of 2 of the gas filled pistons/arms that hold the engine lid up. Any recommendations? Thanks in advance. Ed Frank 97 M3/4
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Engine lid - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 12:27:22 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Engine lid > I am in need of 2 of the gas filled pistons/arms > that hold the engine lid up. > > Any recommendations? Either the dealer (local or Roundel advertiser), or try Bimmerparts.com, Just checking there, they are ~$20 each. Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44
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#10. Stereo upgrade questions - from Mike Frank
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Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 15:59:24 -0500 From: "Mike Frank" <mfrank28@comcast.net> Subject: Stereo upgrade questions Now that I've removed the interior, I'm finally going to put a decent stereo system in my car. I'd be interested in hearing from anyone who has done an aftermarket stereo install in their M3. I'm planning on putting in at least a new headunit and a good set of front speakers. I know some of you have some pretty nice systems. Specifically interested in experiences with, but not limited to, the following: - Installing larger than 5.25" speakers in the kick panels - coax in kick panels vs. components (kick panel & door) - using factory wiring harness & finding the appropriate mating connectors (amp & speaker) - mounting amps, crossovers, etc. - equipment and online source recommendations welcome - any gotchas, advice, special adapters necessary, etc. Feel free to respond privately if you don't want to use up digest bandwidth. Thanks in advance, Mike Frank 97 M3